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Everything posted by W_Higgins

  1. Incorrect. The car on HCCA is a Type X. The car shown above is a Type XV.
  2. The reason for this is sprayed finishes have calculated into the final equation the necessary solvents for "dispersion". In order to get the paint or primer to leave the gun and land properly on the panel the formulation is different from brushed-on finishes knowing that certain elements will be lost as it travels through the air. This is why people can seldom obtain satisfactory results when trying to apply by brush automotive finishes that are designed to be sprayed.
  3. PPG used to (and may still) have a line of roll-on primers. They were really only intended for spot repairs so you could use them in an open shop without creating overspray or having to tie up a booth for something minor. You really ought to find out because with automotive primers, urethanes are not supposed to be applied direct to bare metal without first using an etching primer or otherwise prepping the surface. Epoxy can be applied over properly prepared bare metal. I've tried to buy that stuff from the UK before and won't ship to the US. I'm curious about what it actually is. The words "enamel" and "varnish' and such are used so generically that whatever they're selling may be things that are still commonly available here. Try buying "Spar Varnish" in just about any store you can walk into today and virtually all of it is urethane.
  4. Free Hershey Delivery if Prepaid! Solar 8100 R-12 Refrigerant Recovery Machine Clean unit. Less than 9 hours run time. Buyer gets the interesting story that comes with it. Last used about four years ago and it worked fine then. One of the hoses is getting a little tired. It should be fine for use with 134a with adapter fittings and either swapping out the gauges, or using a conversion scale to read the R-12 gauges correctly for 134a use. $150 bucks. Local pick-up only (or free Hershey delivery). Located near Gettysburg, PA. Message through the forum with any questions. Thanks for looking!
  5. Silica Bronze is good stuff and certainly has it's place, but it's apples-and-oranges with respect to my original comment regarding the substitution of solid brass parts for parts that were formerly brass plated steel. That aside, polished silica bronze looks like polished silica bronze to me. On cars that sport both polished bronze and brass hardware, the contrast is clear.
  6. Brass plated steel parts, as well as nickel plated parts, were very much a thing early on. Autocar (automobiles) offered nickel plating as an extra cost option, as did other manufacturers. On higher end cars it was an option or standard. Stanley was an early user of nickel lamps. Also, many parts were brass plated steel and the commonality you see on such parts is they tended to do it with things that rub where paint wouldn't last any time at all, like shift quadrants, linkages, and engine cranks. When you find an early car that hasn't been restored or was done once a long time ago it is not hard to find traces of the plating. It wasn't purely decorative. As to brass plated steel, many parts on Model T Fords up to mid-1911 were finished as such until they started to further cut costs and started enameling things. Many of the brass bolts and screws that are sold as solid brass reproductions today were originally brass plated steel, and for good reason if they are things that take a load, such as steering column-to-firewall bolts. On a 1911 Torpedo one of the cowl lamp bracket bolts is shared with a bracket that holds the cowl to the firewall. The solid brass bolts used in place of a steel one will shear after the body twists on it for awhile. Also, brass clad steel is often overlooked. Many cars used steel windshield support rods clad in brass that today people remake out of solid brass tube and if your car sees rough service they don't hold up so well. The people that designed these things weren't idiots and replacing steel parts with solid brass often spells trouble.
  7. That doesn't look like a water spot. It looks more like something from a bird or a tree. Bird stuff in particular can be quite harsh. I suspect rather than being a deposit on the surface it is something that has etched the nickel. You really ought to get a knowledgeable polisher or plating shop to take a look at it in person before attempting something too aggressive and doing further damage. Beautiful body style Packard. Those are wonderful cars to drive.
  8. I can't speak to that as I've never used Smith's or West as prep for anything other than a wood surface that is ultimately to be painted.
  9. Saying nothing with respect to their integrity of the wheel since I'm not there to handle it, I've painted several sets of wheels prepping them with West and most recently tried Smith's. West is nice because it cures hard overnight, sands well, and fills well, but it is messy and takes a lot of effort to prep for primer. It's a thicker, more syrupy epoxy that accumulates more on the surface than it penetrates. Smith's did what I hoped in that it is like water. The wood soaks it up to the point that you quit when it starts to accumulate on the surface. There's not so much sanding to prep for primer, but it doesn't fill the grain as well and requires more primer to address that issue. Everything is a trade-off. What I didn't like about the Smith's is it is very slow to cure and doesn't cure rock hard like the West does. I'm on the fence as to whether I'd use it again but I believe as a substrate it is fine. You can also use an epoxy primer direct to the wood and it will hold up well, but it's difficult to flow it into the unsealed grain on account of surface tension problems. Not impossible, but another hurdle. Again, everything is a trade-off. You'll likely have to prime a second time if you go that route and unfilled grain bothers you. Do not use a urethane primer direct to wood. It will eventually lift. After all that you can topcoat with your preferred finish. I prep the flange plates before the bolts go in. It's a lot easier to not have to work around the bolt heads. If the wheels are going out for rewooding, I do the initial prep on the metal before they go to the wheelwright. I don't know Overland's well, but there is a good chance the rim itself was originally zinc plated. Whether or not they painted over the plating I do not know, but rim hardware more often than not seems to have been prepared in that manner. Good luck with it. It's a ton or work if you want the end product to be smooth and shiny.
  10. Woosh. That's the sound of what was supposed to be a joke going over your head. 😄
  11. They probably just got the year wrong. I'll bet it was this car on the way home from the body shop:
  12. Because have you ever tried to hold a paint gun with 32 ozs. of paint in it? Seriously though, it's because you didn't buy the 64 oz. pitcher:
  13. This was the material present on this car when found in '59 and hasn't been touched since, so it wasn't likely replaced by that point given it's condition is consistent with the rest of the car. The EV8 Judging Standards were the source for the above and go on to state that 1938 may also be green and 1941 to 1948 were black.
  14. From 1932 to 1940 Ford used brown top material on their station wagons. Attached is a photo showing the original top material on an unrestored '36 Ford Station Wagon next to a black card for comparison.
  15. You mentioned having a disconnect in the circuit. Remove that for the duration of your testing. I've seen those, both new and old, cause resistance issues.
  16. Try Antique Auto Parts Cellar: http://www.then-now-auto.com They once bailed me out on a rawhide timing gear for an oddball Continental engine. It's amazing what is still out there if you just know where to look. If you still need to make new ones, REMPCO in Cadillac, MI is also an excellent source.
  17. Inquire about, "coin rubber" of the correct grade. It's the rubber flooring with the little raised circles. Easy to maintain and you won't slip and break your neck when it gets wet.
  18. To put that into perspective, my commercial Curtis is 5hp, 230v, and 23a.
  19. So what is it, that your rented building currently has no power at all? Just a point to be aware of since you like dragging home things from auctions -- if you find a 3-phase industrial machine tool that lights your fire, make sure that it isn't wired "440v Only" (primarily with respect to the controls even if the motor is 220v / 440v dual voltage) or else then you're going to be buying transformers or swapping out motor controls. There is plenty of 220v 3-phase stuff to be had if you are paying attention. My lathe started life with 440v controls and I've adapted it to make it functional in a regular setting, but it's probably not something you want to get into first starting out.
  20. If anyone today has two-phase, you have a rare thing indeed as that system was obsoleted decades ago. What most people have in their homes in the U.S. is 110v / 220v single-phase. There are two hot wires, but that does not equal two-phase. Getting three-phase at home usually requires considerable expense if it is even an option at all. If you have a farm you might be able to pull off a deal with your power company. You just have to call them and see. The most practical solution for the home shop machinist is a rotary phase converter: https://www.americanrotary.com/products/view/ar-pro-series In many instances, changing motors on machine tools is not as easy as a simple motor swap because the motor frames are designed specifically for the application, particularly on the better American heavy iron produced from the 1930's and onward. To further complicate things, on some machines removing the motor involves considerable disassembly to access it. VFD's have their place, but you really need one for each machine and, if you acquire a lot of machines, it becomes a lot of expense whereas so long as you are only running one or two machines at a time, they can all be fed by the same RPC. You can even hang a 3-phase breaker panel, use that RPC to feed it, and have a conventional wiring set-up in your shop. Also, as the horsepower goes up, so does the price of the VFD and, purchasing a lot of them, they can start to get expensive quick. Another disadvantage is that you need to use the VFD to start the machine, thereby giving up your original machine controls. You can't fire up the VFD and then use the On/Off switch on your machine. On some machines giving up the controls is not an issue, but on others it very much can be. I own both and each has it's place, but overall if you want to collect a lot of cheap three-phase heavy iron from auctions and play, a RPC is easy, sturdy, and reliable. You can probably find a homemade unit for cheap to start out with. I had one that I used for a long time and later upgraded to a 10 HP unit from the outfit linked to above. Though today, generally, they recommend a RPC double the horsepower of your largest motor, they used to go a little lower and I run my 7.5 hp lathe with it no problem, but I also don't run it to the extremes of what it is capable in most instances. Here recently I even got a wireless remote for it and no longer have to go back and forth turning the thing on and off.
  21. It's not available to anyone unless you happen to find old stock on the shelf somewhere and there's not much hope of that at this point. At least I haven't found any. I think except for some oddball colors, even the stuff on eBay has dried up. Over a year ago PPG sent out this obsolescence notice: https://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Notifications-Result/2018/Obsolescence-Notice-Deltron-DDL-Duracryl-Acrylic
  22. On thin strips like that attach them to a board and (for a complex shape like that) take the time to back up the voids with a formed piece that extends beyond the edges, the idea being you don't want the buffing wheel to be able to wrap around the part and snatch it from your hands. You're only concerned with the presentation surface anyway. It will take time to make a proper holding board, but will save you buffing time and from potentially destroying your part.... and having your part destroy you!
  23. As usual, Google is your friend: http://thevintagent2011.blogspot.com/2010/08/pebble-beach-week-2010-quail.html "The Best in Show car was a 1936 Delahaye 135 Competition 'Disappearing' Convertible, an elegant Deco sculpture, which itself nearly disappeared under the marquee behind the winner's podium, at the end of the day. A freak accident which, amazingly, found no one nearby to injure... whether sabotage, a mischevious djinn, or plain ol' Friday the 13th, the inimitable sound of a $6 million car being crunched was a shock to everyone's sensibilities. I shed a tear - not for the car, but for Gordon and Courtney, who didn't deserve such bad luck after all the effort to create this amazing event. While ultimately an 'insurance moment', that sound and my shock have resonated for days hence, a memento mori: we are temporary caretakers of our treasures, and exit this world with nothing. What truly matters can't be found within a machine."
  24. They do not: Please include the following information in the body of your post: Year Make Model Price (strongly suggested) Description Location (City, State, Country) Contact Information (Name, Email and Phone) EBAY URL if also listed on EBAY Photos and price listings are optional, but they will increase interest in your posting and greatly help the sale.