West Peterson Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 On 10/3/2020 at 8:26 PM, 61polara said: What I've generally found looking at used trailers is that the sellers are asking very high prices, close to new cost, they need all tires replace and the brakes repaired and many times the lights as well. Shop around. Actually, brakes and tires are relatively cheap. I just replaced all four tires for about $600 (10-ply 16.5-inch), and all four brakes for $150 (drums would have been an extra $150). Lights are simple. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted October 5, 2020 Author Share Posted October 5, 2020 Surprisingly, my local NAPA store sourced everything I needed when I replaced the brake shoes on my Haulmark. I figured I was doomed to dealing with an RV store ($$$$$). Nope. the guys behind the counter were actually quite knowledgeable and asked the right questions to make sure they were ordering the correct parts that were there the next day.........Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 Another thing to check is the brand of tires on the trailer. You may be sorry with a cheap set of Chinese tires when one blows seeing the damage it can do to your trailer.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 eTrailer has many things often on sale. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deaddds Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 14 hours ago, Bills Auto Works said: Like Ed said...It is all about the money. If you have the money & want the best, buy what I will be buying if & when I replace my 24 ft enclosed, an ATC. Expect to pay just under a thousand dollars a foot as they are the absolute best these days. Since I put so many miles on them, I cannot use a cheap trailer. God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/ Whats an ATC? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 42 minutes ago, deaddds said: Whats an ATC? A very high end trailer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 Check the weight difference between a steel verses an aluminum trailer. You will find that many of the aluminum trailers are not much lighter than a steel trailer. You will also find aluminum trailers are not as versatile a a steel trailer. Even Featherlite you have to pay extra to have the floor beefed up to put a Bob Cat on it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 16 hours ago, SC38DLS said: Not only 16 inch wheels are important but the tires must be very good tires. Don’t buy normal 6 ply trailer tires make sure they are at least 10 ply. It’s been a while since I’ve hauled horses around the country so there may be even better tires today but my point is buy the best tire possible it will pay dividends. At Ed's suggestion, I bought a set of 16" Load Range "G" SAILUN 235/80R-16 through Simple Tire online. So Far - So Good, but we haven't gone anywhere this year, so almost no miles on the tires 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trulyvintage Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 For the original poster - check your local craigslist or Facebook community page to see what trailers of your type are selling for. That is where you will find the market value of your trailer. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 Aluminum trailers if bent......need to be replaced, or cut out and sectioned. Also, depending on the size trailer, the load carrying gain may or may not be worth all the extra money. I often carry more than just a car....so a 10k trailer with a Packard 12 sedan will max out almost any 10k trailer with 15 inch tires. I don't like to haul with tires at more than 75 percent of load rating..........just way too many issues with them today flying apart. Also, run through the dessert in Utah when it's 110 degrees and your going 75mph........tires fall apart. I run Sailun 16 inch tires that are basically a "tractor trailer" tire. They weigh in at 62 pounds, as they are an all steel casement and they run 110 psi. Each tire is rated around 4400 lbs load per tire. They last well over 80,000 miles. I have never had a flat with them ever.....and trust me, I run heavy and fast. It's common today to get stopped and have the cops weigh the trailer and look at the DOT info on the tire.........if your overloaded.........which is EASY to do with any 15 inch tire.....your going to pay a big fine.....and unload the trailer on the spot. I can't stand buying anything made in China.....as far as I am concerned, Sailun tires are the only decent thing they make. I now have them on my truck and trailer. I put a set on the pick up before I went and picked up my 1917 White. Best thing is they are no more expensive than most trash tires.......in the Rv and Farm forums everyone has been running them for years.........and recently the prices have gone up. Still worth three times what they charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 (edited) An aluminum trailer is good to haul horses around mainly because they like to leak - the horses not the trailer, in them! The steel rust out very quickly due to that problem. The weight of even a draft horse per area of floor space (hoof) does not compare to the weight of a car floor area (tire). So I would not consider an aluminum frame trailer for hauling cars, the trailer really need to fit the use to be safe for you, your load and others on the road. Just my thoughts but I’ve hauled horses around this country for about 40 years and 7 or 800,000 miles. dave s Edited October 6, 2020 by SC38DLS (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trulyvintage Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 OK All trailers - open or enclosed - are engineered and designed and warranted by the manufacturers to be suitable for the application advertised. The manufacturer states on the data plate the axle capacity ( among other things ). If someone decides to change out 3500 pound axles to 5250 pound axles - they are voiding any warranty the manufacturer intended because they are altering the trailer design. All trailers wear out because all trailers have a life expectancy built into the design. Aluminum car hauler trailers can have steel or aluminum frames. While aluminum is lighter - it also flexes more than steel - which over time leads to structural metal and weld fatigue and expected failure. I speak from actual experience. I started my business in 2006 with a custom built steel trailer designed for hauling vintage trailers. I evolved that service into hauling vintage trailers and vehicles. Then I hauled farm equipment and vehicles. Then heavier vehicles like Dodge W200 and W300 Power Wagons. But I was hauling more weight per mile and getting paid less per mile to do it. So I started hauling vehicles exclusively. Eventually - due to customer demand I started hauling with an enclosed ccar hauler trailer. I bought my first one off EBay from Freedom Trailers in Willacoochee, GA. The roof started to tear in (3) months. That led me to Arising Industries in Fitzgerald, GA and I have bought (4) custom designed ( by me ) and custom built enclosed car hauler trailers from them thru a retail dealer. They are built on a full perimeter steel tube frame unlike most enclosed trailers. Jim 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trulyvintage Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 Just yesterday I stopped in Iowa City, Iowa to have my welder Reg Yoder weld up the back corners of my current custom 35 foot enclosed car hauler. Every trailer manufacturer has at least one design flaw - like humans that design them - no trailer is perfect. The weak point on my trailer Is the 4 inch C channel used to frame the back door opening - instead of installing 4 inch steel tube like I speced in the design with gusseting. Reg re-welded the corners and installed gussets. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 (edited) Trulyvintage is 100 percent correct, no trailer is perfect. And the life expectancy of a trailer is much more short term and lower miles than one would expect. I have ALWAYS custom ordered my trailers....and paid a lot more money to add steel to the entire structure. I have still had fatigue and frame issues, as we are always at the edge of the capacity of the trailer. Add in terrible roads in half the states, and you pound the trailer apart. On my last new trailer, I ordered a heavier rear drive on ramp door.......rated to 12k for a load. When I picked up the trailer, BEFORE I drove a car in it, I called the manufacturer and asked why they didn't give me the 12k door. The said it certainly was a 12k door. I followed up by email, and then went to drive my V-12 Pierce into the trailer, where upon the door broke, and damaged the car. BEFORE it ever had a car in it! They started making excuses right away......I I told them they were paying for the car repairs, lost time, missed show.....ect. They said shove it. Then I told them I would post on this site EVERY day for a year what they said and did....because I have copies of the email correspondence. Presto! The trailer had a new and correct door installed, and the car was fixed and I was compensated. The problem today is MOST of the trailers are built on the cheap......and most of the welders and fabricators have zero talent, can't weld worth a sxxt, and they don't car about anything but sales. My current fleet of trailers should last my lifetime. We ordered them, added in extra steel from the factory, and then did more modifications after delivery. Also, you MUST maintain a trailer........they are nothing but a sink hole for time, money, and labor. If you stay on top of them, they are fine. Ignore a trailer, and the devestating consequences will possibly kill you, your family, and others on the road. Buy the best you can afford for a truck and trailer. You life DOES depend on it. Edited October 6, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trulyvintage Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 The first enclosed car hauler trailer I bought had a ramp door - it fell off after a few months - literally. In The Real World .... I load & unload on uneven - unpaved - crowned - pot holed roads & driveways because that is how things are. I have an 8 foot door clearance because I routine transport Model T vehicles ( over 300 to date ) and early brass cars. I would need a separate electric winch in the ceiling to assist in raising the required 7000 pound rated ramp door. No Thank You .... I switched to barn doors and a four piece aluminum ramp system from Discount Ramps in Wisconsin that cost $1600 at the time. They are American Made and rated at 5000 pounds per axle. Mine have a plate end that sits on my trailer deck - they don’t slip or kick out - they are specifically designed for commercial use. Sometimes I transfer to & from rollback tow trucks or have vehicles or cargo forked into the back of my trailer. Jim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 +1 on what Ed says. I am sometime amazed that the 70s were survived, not so much the racing but towing the race car and spares (everything for which you have a spare won't break - unless they do - went through an incredible number of Vega GT wheels with the Sunbird) all over the midwest. Did always insist on tandem axles. Others didn't. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted October 6, 2020 Share Posted October 6, 2020 (edited) I now only buy triple axel trailers.......even with tag along units.......with 7,000 pound Torflex axles and 8k rated brakes. Add in the Sailun tires and my "chassis" of the trailer is rated at 21K, but the stopping power is 24K, and my tires are rated at 26.5k. Actual load is usually 14k all in with car, trailer, tools, ect. So I have an additional 10k cushion, in keeping with not running my stuff over 75 percent of total rating. Easier on everything, less maintenance, and much less pounding of the equipment. Also, the trailer will last an easy 400,000 miles if you keep on top of it. It's overkill......but I'm a BIG of of safety, and since I am not hauling for profit, the overkill doesn't cost me in the long run. NOTHING stops faster than the triple axel set up........it's amazing how much safer towing is with it. Another additional benefit is the trailer is much more stable down the road, and loading and unloading even if the truck is not attached. I could go on......but I won't. PS- Trulyvintage is correct on ramps and barn doors for every day commercial hauling. Ramp doors are a compromise, but while I haul long distances, I load and unload much less than most others. Edited October 6, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdsbob Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 On 10/5/2020 at 6:04 AM, Bills Auto Works said: Like Ed said...It is all about the money. If you have the money & want the best, buy what I will be buying if & when I replace my 24 ft enclosed, an ATC. Expect to pay just under a thousand dollars a foot as they are the absolute best these days. Since I put so many miles on them, I cannot use a cheap trailer. God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/ ATC better than a Gold Rush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 I want to revive this thread because I need to replace our 25 year old trailer. It seems to me that the 7000lb axles with 16" wheels are about 1/100 car trailers? It is a requirement for me but it eliminates almost every trailer. Anybody have any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 21 minutes ago, alsancle said: I want to revive this thread because I need to replace our 25 year old trailer. It seems to me that the 7000lb axles with 16" wheels are about 1/100 car trailers? It is a requirement for me but it eliminates almost every trailer. Anybody have any thoughts? Easy, Pry your wallet open with a crow bar.............get the BIG one, and then order what you want. A good friend here just purchased a used trailer.......and the guy made off with his money. Order a extra tall trailer to fit any car.......including a big brass car. I like the triple axel options with the spread.........very stable, and makes loading and unloading the trailer while not hooked up easy. You could go a triple with 15 inch wheels......but you will loose braking power compared to the 16's. 24 feet minimum.......26 or 28 is better for luggage. In a perfect world for you...... a featherlite would be expensive but they never rust. Will last you till you croak, or sell it to me. I can give you a long list of things..........like the new rear door with remote winch that opens and closes it since you're almost collecting social security. You need to decided...........kind of cheap and a unit with compromises or just pull the trigger and get it over with once and be done with it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) 😳 Ed, you enjoy living dangerously! Edited April 1, 2021 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 54 minutes ago, edinmass said: 24 feet minimum.......26 or 28 is better for luggage. In a perfect world for you...... a featherlite would be expensive but they never rust. Will last you till 22' would be perfect, but 24 would work. I have a hard enough time with our 20. Just because you can whip that 28 footer around in your sleep doesn't mean I can. I think some extra height is a good idea. Pie in the sky the full opening side panels would be awesome. 7000lb axes are a must. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 I assume all aluminum? Who are we ordering this 35k trailer from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Something I have been thinking about is overcapacity tires run slightly underinflated. Note when towing I use TPMS with 802.11 for range on all wheels with pressure and temperature readout for each tire that I can see. The concept is a load range "E" trailer tire at 80 psi (max load) will pound things to death even with a good Torflex axle. While at 65-70 psi (just an example, YMMV) the ride is considerably softer but should be derated by about 20%. Just a thought but on rough roads, a larger/softer tires should significantly reduce stress. Thoughts ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 2 hours ago, alsancle said: I assume all aluminum? Who are we ordering this 35k trailer from? A CCCA car is almost never over 19 feet long. Add one foot from each end gets you to 21 feet. Then the reach for the tie downs.........24 is a MINIMUM for any CCCA car. Then you don't get any extra room to balance the trailer either. My tag is 34 feet plus the extended A frame for a 38 foot total length. It leaves 8 feet for luggage, a golf cart, ect. I can also center the car and balance the trailer perfectly every time.........try towing your 35 V-12 and have it sitting back a bit........you will learn the hard way. 24 is the minimum and not that great for the big junk. 26 would be perfect............ trailers come in shit junk cheap, middle of the road almost OK, and then the real nice stuff. By going triple axel and middle of the road you get a gvw of 21K which makes for a stiffer and heavier frame. Standard frame trailers at 10-12k will flex and crack hauling big heavy iron.......even if from a decent manufacturer. Everyone is making things too light today to save material costs......... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, edinmass said: A CCCA car is almost never over 19 feet long. Add one foot from each end gets you to 21 feet. Then the reach for the tie downs.........24 is a MINIMUM for any CCCA car. Then you don't get any extra room to balance the trailer either. My tag is 34 feet plus the extended A frame for a 38 foot total length. It leaves 8 feet for luggage, a golf cart, ect. I can also center the car and balance the trailer perfectly every time.........try towing your 35 V-12 and have it sitting back a bit........you will learn the hard way. 24 is the minimum and not that great for the big junk. 26 would be perfect............ trailers come in shit junk cheap, middle of the road almost OK, and then the real nice stuff. By going triple axel and middle of the road you get a gvw of 21K which makes for a stiffer and heavier frame. Standard frame trailers at 10-12k will flex and crack hauling big heavy iron.......even if from a decent manufacturer. Everyone is making things too light today to save material costs......... For the benefit of California readers who may be contemplating a purchase of an enclosed trailer, know that here in The Pipples' Republik a Class C (regular) driver's license allows you to tow a single trailer of up to 10,000 lbs GROSS, but the prime mover can be up to 26,000 lbs gross. Any trailer and contents above 10k lbs, including a gooseneck or 5th wheel towed by a pickup, requires a Class A (commercial or non-commercial) license. The Calif Class A non-commercial requires a special physical exam by a suitably-certified physician every three years until you reach age 75, at which time it becomes an ANNUAL exam. I'm now north of 75 so have to keep trailers below 10k gross. A number of people here buy trailers with 6k or 7k axles new but have the manufacturer downgrade the rating sticker to 9,990 or 9,995 lbs. Bob J (AKA my Evil Twin @edinmass) now owns the 24-ft TPD triple axle trailer I ran for many years. When I was finally able to buy the tall 1918 Pierce that I chased for 18 years, I had to buy a tall trailer and found a triple axle 28-ft Aztex with aluminum sides and top but it's heavy. They screwed the pooch on the sticker which shows the TARE as way too low IMHO but I won't get it weighed because I don't want to know. Have had no problems in 5 years as I tow with a dually diesel and CA does not require pickups with trailers to enter scales. Having heard horror stories about MD, I'll stay clear of that state 🙂 . Agree with Ed that 24 ft is the absolute minimum desirable length trailer for 138-145" wheelbase cars. Edited April 1, 2021 by Grimy fix typo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Grimy, I have 2 small construction trailers, one a deck, the other a box that also doubles as my motorcycle trailer. I have pulled both for many many miles. The box trailer has been from FLA to Canada more times than I can count. Never had a problem' in MD my brother did once, but I have had troubles in PA. At one time I had large trucks so I carry a Commercial A license with a current medical card so I dont worry too much about it, but you are correct. They will check for it. Not having one is a pretty big fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 My deck trailer is about to head into my shop for an over haul, new deck, brakes, clean and paint, new tires, blast and powder coat the wheels. I like the sound of those Sailun tires. I did a quick check and much to my surprise they are sold at Walmart of all places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zepher Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Grimy said: For the benefit of California readers who may be contemplating a purchase of an enclosed trailer, know that here in The Pipples' Republik a Class C (regular) driver's license allows you to tow a single trailer of up to 10,000 lbs GROSS, but the prime mover can be up to 26,000 lbs gross. Any trailer and contents above 10k lbs, including a gooseneck or 5th wheel towed by a pickup, requires a Class A (commercial or non-commercial) license. The Calif Class A non-commercial requires a special physical exam by a suitably-certified physician every three years until you reach age 75, at which time it becomes an ANNUAL exam. I'm now north of 75 so have to keep trailers below 10k gross. A number of people here buy trailers with 6k or 7k axles new but have the manufacturer downgrade the rating sticker to 9,990 or 9,995 lbs. This is precisely one of the main reasons I keep my Class A current with a valid Medical. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Fan Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 12 hours ago, alsancle said: I assume all aluminum? Who are we ordering this 35k trailer from? I think it would be closer to $40k. https://www.premiercustomtrailers.com/bravo-32-stp-enclosed-race-trailer-w-triple-6000-axles-Seyj|cO.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 7 hours ago, Cadillac Fan said: I think it would be closer to $40k. https://www.premiercustomtrailers.com/bravo-32-stp-enclosed-race-trailer-w-triple-6000-axles-Seyj|cO.html I think I’m going dual 7k axles instead of the triple 5k in this model. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 I will NEVER buy a trailer with the dual axles again. The stopping power and safety of the Tripps is beyond valuable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Although I dont haul anything as heavy as a car, I said the same thing about a 2 axle m/c trailer. I would never buy one with a single axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 If my dolly is not enough, I get a U-Haul tandem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 14 hours ago, Cadillac Fan said: I think it would be closer to $40k. https://www.premiercustomtrailers.com/bravo-32-stp-enclosed-race-trailer-w-triple-6000-axles-Seyj|cO.html I like that one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trulyvintage Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 I just dropped off my second load this week of donated automobilia items transported from Charlotte, NC to The EFV-8 Foundation Museum in Auburn , Indiana yesterday. A Honda Gold Wing & Vintage Scooters in the front 😉 A 1936 Ford Sedan Delivery behind those in the middle 😉 A vintage air compressor at the rear powered by an early Ford V-8 engine I transport a variety of automobilia to & from museums on a regular basis so rear barn doors with commercial aluminum ramps is my choice for cargo management & versatility 👍 Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 23 hours ago, edinmass said: I will NEVER buy a trailer with the dual axles again. The stopping power and safety of the Tripps is beyond valuable. Listen Bill Gates, If I can build a trailer with triples on a 24' I will consider it. But where this is gone I'm going to have to sell a car or a kid to pay for it. Btw, you didn't mention it, but another reason for the 7000lb axles is to get the 16 inch wheels which gets you the heavy duty tires - this is all info you have drilled in to me. You need to comment what what class hitch we should be using and if we need the weight distribution one like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Which car is in such bad shape that Ed & Phil can’t fix it. I think one of your kids may be in trouble! Just a thought. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Buying a good trailer is buying safety. It also helps to run a trailer at fifty percent load. When you run them at 90 percent of capacity, they break.....a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 3, 2021 Share Posted April 3, 2021 Try hauling a couple draft horses ( Percheron’s) around in a standard horse trailer and you will see how fast an undersized trailer will break! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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