Graham Man

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About Graham Man

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    http://grahampaige.blogspot.com/

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  • Location:
    MN, USA

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  1. Ultra rare optional padded dash...paint falling off the dash. It is so hard to convert a sedan...
  2. Make sure you get the right coefficient of friction shoes. Wrong coefficient and brakes will be almost useless. Over the years the pressure to the shoes has increased so brake material has gotten harder to last longer. On the bright side now most of the COF material is available. I would highly recommend Brake and Equipment (Minneapolis MN). I had a friend do a set for me, I had to have them redone, never had the heart to tell my friend he used the wrong material. To give you an idea what you want for stopping power... my 1929 827 Graham-Paige owners manual (almost 5000lb car) states "occupants will be dislodged from their seat if the brakes are applied suddenly" yes I can lock up all 4 wheels on pavement.
  3. Almost all hydraulic brake systems are vented otherwise as your brakes wear, the pedal would sink. I always assumed this is how moisture gets in. I switched to silicone brake fluid and silicone high temperature disk brake grease. I lube all moving parts with the disk brake grease and fill with DOT5 silicone fluid (all military vehicles are required to use DOT5) apparently after Vietnam, they had lots of moisture issues. Harley Davidson also has been using DOT5 since 1976? (internet search). I rebuilt my 1929 Graham-Paige (Lockheed Brakes) using all silicone, car sits a lot, brakes are like new every time I drive it, almost 12 years since I have looked at them. Conventional DOT3 seems to eat my wheel cylinders, about 5 year and I have rust contamination/rubber swelling at the wheel cylinders, and stuck brakes, it is better if you drive it more, I have too many cars. 2X on the new brake lines. PS to be fair my 1928 Graham-Paige has a sealed system, when the pedal gets low you have to unseal the master cylinder and pump up the system (also hydraulic) till the pedal returns to the original height.
  4. The prices of the old tractors around me are crazy low. The pasture mower looks like an inexpensive one, real JD mowers are worth more. I agree start at $3500 for the set, the mower is worth $500 and I think the tractor is in the $2500 range. It most likely is better running than looking. If you wanted to put some time in painting and striping I think you could get the $3000 for the tractor. Good Luck
  5. That is a great looking automobile, love brass just out of my price range. My guess is a 1910 Pratt?
  6. If the rear end is not making any strange noises most likely it is brakes. Pull the rear drums and you will know pretty quickly. You should be able to back off the rear shoes to check without removing the drums. You may have the classic "stuck" emergency brake cable? They get rusty over the years. Check to see the cable is not tight. The rear end should spin freely. You can always use the hot test, drive the car a few miles without using the brakes, and check for hot drums, try not to touch them, easy to get burned. If it is dragging the wheel should get warm, you can do the same with the rear end. Friction/dragging always causes heat.
  7. 2X on the copper coat. I also use anti seize on the head studs, just the sides where the head contacts the studs. I use water till I am sure there are no leaks, then put in antifreeze.
  8. Well he did say it is a project.... the fact it still has spokes is encouraging, and a radiator cap...from the tree grown into the bumper my guess is it hasn't moved in quite a while
  9. My 1928 Graham-Paige was missing a caster shim on the passenger side spring, replaced the missing caster shim, never had the problem again..
  10. Strange how stuff brings those memories back. I spent a lot of time with my Grandfather when I was young. He had a favorite car, his 1933 Graham, he sold it in 1950, he would say it was old enough to vote. It took me 10 years to find his car, the first time I drove it I swear I could smell the pipe he always was smoking. Still love driving the Graham, just sitting where he did, makes me feel closer. The best part is all the great memories when we spent time together. My kids and I spend a lot of time in the shop. I told them a long time ago the shop is special, check all your baggage at the door, here we work together, have fun, get dirty, and laugh. My 15 year old daughter's first drive of Grandpa's Graham, he would be proud. My Mom's sisters all learned to drive in the Graham. About 1938, my Mom was not born yet.
  11. Thing on the hood looks like a paint ball gun hopper Had a chance to buy a 1968 Charger when I was 15, my Dad never stopped laughing, came that close to being a Dodge guy. 383, auto, orange, white interior, $400. Bought a 1972 Mach 1, 351 Cobra Jet, think it got 6 mph.... a year later, for $600, I have had Fords ever since.
  12. If the wood is good it might not be a big job. The top is identical to a Model A Sedan, video's on utube. Just make sure the wood is solid. Any Model A club member should be able to help. With the original fabric still in place I would bet the top was all in place before he started the restoration.
  13. Not sure if any car had a "standard heater" before 1940? Graham offered heaters as an option around 1932 but most were dealer installed aftermarket parts form Tropic Aire and others. Most cars were parked for the winter, mostly for lack of decent antifreeze, that got better after WW2. My Grandfather used a alcohol mix for antifreeze into the 1950s in his/my 1933 Graham. 1935 ad says they sold 200,000,000
  14. More Bond stuff, 1971 Mustang in "Diamonds are Forever" Mustang enters on passenger side wheels exits on driver side wheels, quite the trick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qN0uAmS3EoM PS this was an extremely early 1971 429CJ Mustang, it has never been found, went back to Ford after the movie and sold.