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About W_Higgins

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  1. They are complex but I think to say more than that is a bit dramatic. I've seen plenty of hack repairs on basic brakes too (tapered pipe fittings turned one thread into a flared block, etc.) and the end result would be the same if something let go. The good part is that all of the information to do the job is available. Awhile back I did a full rebuild on one of these and it was a good reliable system for a very long time before it needed work and plenty of Shadows are still running around today on the original setup and providing good service. However, I'll be interested to see what you come up with in your refit as you obviously have actual hand-on experience in working with what's there and the challenges posed in making it all fit.
  2. It's a little tiny worthless thing that is there as a back-up in the event the main system fails. It only activates a piston on each rear caliper and doesn't do boo to stop the car in the event of a total system failure.
  3. The "stock master cylinder" is a hydraulic pump that runs off the camshaft powering both the service brake circuits and the hydraulic rear suspension. There is nothing conventional about it. It's interesting stuff for anybody into complex control systems.
  4. Where there you go. If you're satisfied with the result that's all that matters.
  5. So what did you do about the suspension when you gutted the original hydraulic system?
  6. Unfortunately, where it concerns people on our side of the pond, they won't ship to us.
  7. Incorrect. The car on HCCA is a Type X. The car shown above is a Type XV.
  8. The reason for this is sprayed finishes have calculated into the final equation the necessary solvents for "dispersion". In order to get the paint or primer to leave the gun and land properly on the panel the formulation is different from brushed-on finishes knowing that certain elements will be lost as it travels through the air. This is why people can seldom obtain satisfactory results when trying to apply by brush automotive finishes that are designed to be sprayed.
  9. PPG used to (and may still) have a line of roll-on primers. They were really only intended for spot repairs so you could use them in an open shop without creating overspray or having to tie up a booth for something minor. You really ought to find out because with automotive primers, urethanes are not supposed to be applied direct to bare metal without first using an etching primer or otherwise prepping the surface. Epoxy can be applied over properly prepared bare metal. I've tried to buy that stuff from the UK before and won't ship to the US. I'm curious about what it actually is. The words "enamel" and "varnish' and such are used so generically that whatever they're selling may be things that are still commonly available here. Try buying "Spar Varnish" in just about any store you can walk into today and virtually all of it is urethane.
  10. Free Hershey Delivery if Prepaid! Solar 8100 R-12 Refrigerant Recovery Machine Clean unit. Less than 9 hours run time. Buyer gets the interesting story that comes with it. Last used about four years ago and it worked fine then. One of the hoses is getting a little tired. It should be fine for use with 134a with adapter fittings and either swapping out the gauges, or using a conversion scale to read the R-12 gauges correctly for 134a use. $150 bucks. Local pick-up only (or free Hershey delivery). Located near Gettysburg, PA. Message through the forum with any questions. Thanks for looking!
  11. Silica Bronze is good stuff and certainly has it's place, but it's apples-and-oranges with respect to my original comment regarding the substitution of solid brass parts for parts that were formerly brass plated steel. That aside, polished silica bronze looks like polished silica bronze to me. On cars that sport both polished bronze and brass hardware, the contrast is clear.
  12. Brass plated steel parts, as well as nickel plated parts, were very much a thing early on. Autocar (automobiles) offered nickel plating as an extra cost option, as did other manufacturers. On higher end cars it was an option or standard. Stanley was an early user of nickel lamps. Also, many parts were brass plated steel and the commonality you see on such parts is they tended to do it with things that rub where paint wouldn't last any time at all, like shift quadrants, linkages, and engine cranks. When you find an early car that hasn't been restored or was done once a long time ago it is not hard to find traces of the plating. It wasn't purely decorative. As to brass plated steel, many parts on Model T Fords up to mid-1911 were finished as such until they started to further cut costs and started enameling things. Many of the brass bolts and screws that are sold as solid brass reproductions today were originally brass plated steel, and for good reason if they are things that take a load, such as steering column-to-firewall bolts. On a 1911 Torpedo one of the cowl lamp bracket bolts is shared with a bracket that holds the cowl to the firewall. The solid brass bolts used in place of a steel one will shear after the body twists on it for awhile. Also, brass clad steel is often overlooked. Many cars used steel windshield support rods clad in brass that today people remake out of solid brass tube and if your car sees rough service they don't hold up so well. The people that designed these things weren't idiots and replacing steel parts with solid brass often spells trouble.
  13. That doesn't look like a water spot. It looks more like something from a bird or a tree. Bird stuff in particular can be quite harsh. I suspect rather than being a deposit on the surface it is something that has etched the nickel. You really ought to get a knowledgeable polisher or plating shop to take a look at it in person before attempting something too aggressive and doing further damage. Beautiful body style Packard. Those are wonderful cars to drive.
  14. I can't speak to that as I've never used Smith's or West as prep for anything other than a wood surface that is ultimately to be painted.
  15. Saying nothing with respect to their integrity of the wheel since I'm not there to handle it, I've painted several sets of wheels prepping them with West and most recently tried Smith's. West is nice because it cures hard overnight, sands well, and fills well, but it is messy and takes a lot of effort to prep for primer. It's a thicker, more syrupy epoxy that accumulates more on the surface than it penetrates. Smith's did what I hoped in that it is like water. The wood soaks it up to the point that you quit when it starts to accumulate on the surface. There's not so much sanding to prep for primer, but it doesn't fill the grain as well and requires more primer to address that issue. Everything is a trade-off. What I didn't like about the Smith's is it is very slow to cure and doesn't cure rock hard like the West does. I'm on the fence as to whether I'd use it again but I believe as a substrate it is fine. You can also use an epoxy primer direct to the wood and it will hold up well, but it's difficult to flow it into the unsealed grain on account of surface tension problems. Not impossible, but another hurdle. Again, everything is a trade-off. You'll likely have to prime a second time if you go that route and unfilled grain bothers you. Do not use a urethane primer direct to wood. It will eventually lift. After all that you can topcoat with your preferred finish. I prep the flange plates before the bolts go in. It's a lot easier to not have to work around the bolt heads. If the wheels are going out for rewooding, I do the initial prep on the metal before they go to the wheelwright. I don't know Overland's well, but there is a good chance the rim itself was originally zinc plated. Whether or not they painted over the plating I do not know, but rim hardware more often than not seems to have been prepared in that manner. Good luck with it. It's a ton or work if you want the end product to be smooth and shiny.