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W_Higgins

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  1. The voice of experience! They take a lot of care and feeding. Beautiful convertible! Admittedly, I slowed on the progress with my Limo for the same reasons after diving into my '60. They are essentially the same car, but I still love the H&E's. I feel they are the best proportioned of all the body styles and I love all the unique details and the various histories that come along with them (where such things can be known -- no factory records have surfaced thus far). My better '60 Premiere shown below. A combination of restored and excellent original. Every home should have one.
  2. Saying that I am insulted by any of this is an incorrect assumption. We clearly view the hobby differently and have different objectives. I didn't state that the Goldenrod car was far from correct, but of the whole equation of authenticity and condition, it is very much the lesser car. The top is badly wrinkled and split, the front seat has been remade in vinyl, the remaining wool interior is stained and badly moth-eaten, the engine bay is frumpy, none of the car is detailed overall, and it needs a thorough going-over. For anyone hellbent on not putting more into a car than it can be resold for, recommissioning a '60 Lincoln will quickly bring a person to their knees. That doesn't make it a bad car, but it's not even close to being on par with the one being discussed here. It appears to be a solid car with a lot of potential. I hope it is in the hands of a new owner that loves it and defines value as being something more than a stack of receipts in a file folder. Were it not for people willing to go upside-down in a project for the love of saving something significant to them, there wouldn't be any decent cars available for anyone to buy at all.
  3. As H&E's go, this is one of the nicer ones. For the last 20 years I have scrounged up every bit of information I can on them. Out of the 297 built of both models across both years, I can account for 57 of them. That's a 19% survival rate. New discoveries are seldom anymore, but this discussion caused me to do a quick search again this morning and I found another that I didn't have recorded. Out of all the known H&E's, the subject car is probably in the top five in terms of combined condition and authenticity. I will not comment about the price. Value can be rationalized up or down based on a lot of different factors. How such things are discussed on this forum is often very off-putting. My better car is a major project. If I gave it away for free with an endowment worth as much as they are asking for this car, it would still cost that much again to restore it and everybody would still bitch that the finished project is not worth what it cost to do it, yet if I proposed crushing it, I would be called a heretic. I find value in adopting the projects that I love and my motivations are not based upon the expectations of others. The seller has owned this car for quite some time and it is well-known in Lincoln circles. I have never seen in it person, nor do I know the seller personally. I stumbled across the video linked to below sometime last week. On the whole, from an authenticity standpoint, there are a lot of very correct things about this car where other people often make compromises during a restoration. '58 - '60 Lincolns are difficult cars to do and it's common for people to either cut corners when reassembling them, or they simply improvise because they don't do their research. I don't see any of that here. The trunk kit was pointed out as being "disgusting". I think that's a bit dramatic. It's certainly not correct. To my knowledge, the correct pattern trunk kit has never been reproduced. It was '59-only. A '60 kit will fit, but the pattern is still not correct. The grain on the vinyl top is also not correct. I've yet to see a restored car that does have the correct grain and I think it is also not available. A lot of people use the same long-grain material used on Model A closed car tops and the style is right in spirit, but the grain should be much more subdued, like how it would look if you drove a steamroller over it. The closest thing I have seen available today is interior seat leather for 1920's open cars with the same subdued long grain to it. Aside from age related wear, the only real concern I see is on the left top panel where the roof extension is, there is a 90-degree protrusion telegraphing through the material. It's not following the layout of the extension. Maybe it's something with the padding or maybe there's a patch underneath, but it would certainly be something to check. The only other thing is the hood ornament looks to have a shim crammed under it. There were variations in the angle of the mounting bases of Continental stars over a period of years and maybe it's the wrong one, but it looks like if you removed the shim the star would sit proper. All in all, it looks to be a very smartly done and well cared for car. If it is mechanically sorted and the a/c works, all the better as it's the little bugs that eat your lunch with these cars. The interior has clearly been replaced and looks to be correct in every detail. If someone were seriously interested in it and isn't simply all hat and no cattle, then they should pursue it, and then have a go at sorting out the details thereafter. Sometimes sellers motivations are more than simply a number. It's kind of funny how so many people have this monolithic idea about the hobby that doesn't extend beyond their own worldview. As I've tracked these cars, a number of them have undergone significant restoration and I don't think it's because any of the owners gave a ding dong about collecting accolades at a cruise night. As to the green H&E, it may not be incorrect at all. I haven't seen any documentation for that particular car, but the story was that the original owner ordered it painted in his school color, or some such. It was a $10K custom ordered car. That's not outside the realm of possibility. Other H&E's sport custom requests outside the "black with gray wool broadcloth" standard. At least two have leather interiors. If it's the one I think you visited, the New Jersey project car has been restored (it was for sale as a project back around 2007). Quite the feat as it was so far gone. The Goldenrod car was not close to being on the same level as this one. I can't think of any others as nice as this one for sale right now, though there are always plenty of projects that need a loving home. If you happen to stumble across any in the wild, I'm always interested in hearing about them so I can add them to the list. I also have VIN's for several that I don't have photos of.
  4. That's peculiar because the '15 T that lives in my barn is 82" from the ground at the rear bow and the next bow ahead of it is a couple of inches higher than that. There tends to be some variation amongst cars, but nothing like 6" and when this question comes up most T-touring owners of all years report that their car will just barely clear an actual 7' door opening. Haulmark's are good upper-middle class trailers. They are light years ahead of the stuff that comes out of Georgia. I've used one quite a bit that describes almost exactly like the one listed here to move my Lincolns. Finding a new home for it won't be a problem, but I know if it was me I would be reluctant to part with a good used quality trailer as finding an equivalent replacement will be way more difficult than selling this one should you change your mind in the future. You should be able to snap your fingers and unload it any time you want.
  5. That's a nominal 6' trailer (actual door openings tend to be a couple of inches less). I'm not knocking it, but there is nothing exceptional or special order about that. A Model T needs a minimum 7' door opening to go in with the top up and most horseless carriage types need 8' (or more), so a 72" trailer is pretty much limited to postwar stuff, and even some of those cut it close. To put it into perspective "shoebox" Ford wagons just barely clear a 70" door opening. Just food for thought so you (Bob) know who your target audience is -- which you probably already do.
  6. The Indiana Gazette. Indiana, Pennsylvania. June 4, 1964. One of over 100 results spanning until about 1967 when they seem to have stopped advertising.
  7. Put a puller on it with as much tension as it can stand and then shock the arm (on the side, on the big end, where it is installed on the shaft) with an air hammer. That usually gets them moving.
  8. The same car posted earlier this year. The third photo here showing the rear of the car with the garage door up is the same spot as the second-to-last photo in the link:
  9. I would add that the Nu-Rex timing light kit makes it to where you don't have to "feel like" you have the timing right because you will be able to see when it is actually firing. I know a lot of people turn their noses up at it, but the simple truth is the amount of backlash is different in every Model A and you can't actually know what is going on with any amount of consistency without seeing it on a light: https://www.brattons.com/ignition-timing-tools.html That also makes it easy to use the light to check for things like the pulley mark dancing all over the scale due to point float or what not.
  10. A '58 Continental with a small flock of Birds off to the left.
  11. Look it over really good before you remove it, make sure you are happy with the fit everywhere, and mark which side is which. If you are going to send it out to have it polished, I would recommend doing a complete refit before painting the cowl in the event that you need to tweak it to get the fit just right again. It can be a royal pain to get them to cooperate and you won't want to fight with it over your new paint.
  12. It is hard to say without seeing it. What does the underside look like? I'd imagine it is going to at least leak out around the bottom of the mains. If there are any shafts or rods going through the case below that, it will leak there instead. Some cars have a standpipe installed from the bottom with a drain valve and by opening that the excess oil can be drained off without removing more than is necessary.
  13. Other horizontal 2-cylinders are like that. The oil it needs it gets from the oiler and doesn't so much rely on splash, so it's a once-through / total-loss sort of thing. This is particularly true of engines that have the lifters mounted on the underside as it's not a sealed assembly and is free to run out, particularly after things wear, but yours are on top. What does the underside look like? Typically they do hold a little oil that gets splashed around in the lowest point as it's running, but it's not intended to hold quarts-worth as you're accustomed to with newer cars.
  14. I look at the photos and see a $6,000 car. The paint has several respray areas failing and I'm betting those brows over the headlights are because they previously rusted through. The seats look to be reupholstered and the seam on the drivers cushion is coming undone, also the headliner is spotted. Neat car, I like them, probably fine to maintain as-is, but I see all those things letting go as getting worse over time and eventually needing attention.
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