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  1. That's peculiar because the '15 T that lives in my barn is 82" from the ground at the rear bow and the next bow ahead of it is a couple of inches higher than that. There tends to be some variation amongst cars, but nothing like 6" and when this question comes up most T-touring owners of all years report that their car will just barely clear an actual 7' door opening. Haulmark's are good upper-middle class trailers. They are light years ahead of the stuff that comes out of Georgia. I've used one quite a bit that describes almost exactly like the one listed here to move my Lincolns. Finding a new home for it won't be a problem, but I know if it was me I would be reluctant to part with a good used quality trailer as finding an equivalent replacement will be way more difficult than selling this one should you change your mind in the future. You should be able to snap your fingers and unload it any time you want.
  2. That's a nominal 6' trailer (actual door openings tend to be a couple of inches less). I'm not knocking it, but there is nothing exceptional or special order about that. A Model T needs a minimum 7' door opening to go in with the top up and most horseless carriage types need 8' (or more), so a 72" trailer is pretty much limited to postwar stuff, and even some of those cut it close. To put it into perspective "shoebox" Ford wagons just barely clear a 70" door opening. Just food for thought so you (Bob) know who your target audience is -- which you probably already do.
  3. The Indiana Gazette. Indiana, Pennsylvania. June 4, 1964. One of over 100 results spanning until about 1967 when they seem to have stopped advertising.
  4. Put a puller on it with as much tension as it can stand and then shock the arm (on the side, on the big end, where it is installed on the shaft) with an air hammer. That usually gets them moving.
  5. The same car posted earlier this year. The third photo here showing the rear of the car with the garage door up is the same spot as the second-to-last photo in the link:
  6. I would add that the Nu-Rex timing light kit makes it to where you don't have to "feel like" you have the timing right because you will be able to see when it is actually firing. I know a lot of people turn their noses up at it, but the simple truth is the amount of backlash is different in every Model A and you can't actually know what is going on with any amount of consistency without seeing it on a light: https://www.brattons.com/ignition-timing-tools.html That also makes it easy to use the light to check for things like the pulley mark dancing all over the scale due to point float or what not.
  7. A '58 Continental with a small flock of Birds off to the left.
  8. Look it over really good before you remove it, make sure you are happy with the fit everywhere, and mark which side is which. If you are going to send it out to have it polished, I would recommend doing a complete refit before painting the cowl in the event that you need to tweak it to get the fit just right again. It can be a royal pain to get them to cooperate and you won't want to fight with it over your new paint.
  9. It is hard to say without seeing it. What does the underside look like? I'd imagine it is going to at least leak out around the bottom of the mains. If there are any shafts or rods going through the case below that, it will leak there instead. Some cars have a standpipe installed from the bottom with a drain valve and by opening that the excess oil can be drained off without removing more than is necessary.
  10. Other horizontal 2-cylinders are like that. The oil it needs it gets from the oiler and doesn't so much rely on splash, so it's a once-through / total-loss sort of thing. This is particularly true of engines that have the lifters mounted on the underside as it's not a sealed assembly and is free to run out, particularly after things wear, but yours are on top. What does the underside look like? Typically they do hold a little oil that gets splashed around in the lowest point as it's running, but it's not intended to hold quarts-worth as you're accustomed to with newer cars.
  11. I look at the photos and see a $6,000 car. The paint has several respray areas failing and I'm betting those brows over the headlights are because they previously rusted through. The seats look to be reupholstered and the seam on the drivers cushion is coming undone, also the headliner is spotted. Neat car, I like them, probably fine to maintain as-is, but I see all those things letting go as getting worse over time and eventually needing attention.
  12. "Hey guys, we've got a camera crew coming through today. Everybody gets a new shirt."
  13. Doesn't the Metz use full-elliptic springs in the front whereas the car in the first photo has frame horns? If so, that would rule out a Metz. I also don't think Hupmobile used that big quadrant in the center of the steering wheel. Those also aren't T front fenders and the car would have still been fairly new at the time, so it's not likely a put-together.
  14. That is a beautiful and nicely optioned Town Coupe -- best of luck with your sale!
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