csearider Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Looking for advice on preserving existing paint patina on 1940 LaSalle . Do not want to clear coat as do not like the "fake" look of clear. I have Dewalt with polishing bonnet - buff it bare or use (?). Most of paint appears to have a sheen under existing that would buff nicely. I am considering then wiping down with lindseed oil (anyone use this and what were results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 (edited) It looks a bit too far gone to preserve. But if that is your goal I think it would be good to stop the rust with something akin to OSPHO and then coat it with something. Maybe just leave it alone if you are after that abandoned look. Edited January 1, 2018 by JFranklin (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Others have had success removing rust with CLR then carefully hand polishing and waxing. I wouldn't use a power buffer unless you are very experienced and even then it will remove more paint than you want it to. By hand will take longer but no danger of damaging what is left of the paint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csearider Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 Thanks !The patina will go with the surfboard on top.......it is a surf mobile and am putting something out there to stimulate sports people to consider taking old cars, making them mechanically sound and looks secondary.....where the patina contains character for the surfer look. Save An Old Vehicle/Save an Old Board! There are several youtube videos about linseed oil for this type of finish......but, wax is also under consideration. Thanks again! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leosdad Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 About once a month,I wipe down my original paint 57 Bel Air with WD-40.A little shiny to start.but dulls down nicely after a couple of days.Try it on an inconspicous spot and see how you like.At any rate it does wear off. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capngrog Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Just be aware that linseed oil is an infamous villain when it comes to spontaneous combustion. Cheers, Grog 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Someone on another forum used Penetrol on his paint and it brought up a nice shine. Seems to hold up pretty well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I've used Mother's mag and aluminum polish by hand with much success but the surface has to be pretty smooth. To smooth the surface, I wet Sanded with 1500 grit, using wd40 as the lubricant with no water. You can step up to 1000 if necessary but do it in bright light to make sure you are only cutting mostly the rough rust coming through the paint and not much of the paint. You will feel when it gets smooth enough. You will be surprised how good you can make it look if you are careful, but I do agree, there is a lot of missing paint on your car so you are only going to be able to get it so far. You can use wd40 and 0000 steel wool on the chrome then follow it up with Mother's as well. It seems to be one of the best ways I have found to clean the chrome without scratching it. Be sure to clean all loose dirt off wit ha soft brush first if it's a barn fresh type car with any sand on it. Have fun and good luck. You aren]t really going to hurt it, so experiment a little and post back which way you thought worked best. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Wildeisen Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 TR3 Resin glaze Best stuff out there. http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/91 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I used nothing but WD40 0n this car. This is what it looked like when I bought it and when I finished getting it roadworthy after the WD40 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I am afraid at least the front end of your LaSalle has long since passed the "patina" stage. I would worry more about repairing the missing paint than polishing the remaining paint. Just my opinion of course. Anyone who looks at your car will immediately notice the missing paint regardless of the condition of the remaining paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 11 minutes ago, Restorer32 said: Anyone who looks at your car will immediately notice the missing paint regardless of the condition of the remaining paint. Does it really matter if the paint is missing. There are a lot of bald headed men on this site! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) Yes there are alot of bald headed men, like myself and I'm only 43, but I wear a hat to hide it. I also want to see a picture of that Buick Coupe after you finished. I have done a few cars this way, but none with really any heavy surface rust like that. Most still had atleast a few mills of paint left. Edited January 2, 2018 by auburnseeker (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 1939-40 Cads and LaSalles have grilles that were plated in their entirety and then paint was applied over the plain/flat sections, as in this case. It's always a problem getting paint to properly adhere, or to remain adhered, so loss of paint on those areas is a common problem. Others have finished removing that paint, then repainted those sections only after slightly roughing up the underlying plating. Bald? I was losing hair at 18, and I'm long past that. Hats are ESSENTIAL for us! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustDave Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I THINK I WOULD START WITH A GOOD CLAY BAR AND SOAP,ID CLAY IT TWICE THEN GET SOME NUMBER 7 AUTO POLISH AT O REILLYS AND POLISH IT REAL GOOD.AS FAR AS THE RUST GOES USE SOME METAL PREO AND A FINE SCOTCH BRITE PAD ON THE RUST ONLY AND POLISH RIGHT OVER IT, THATS ME, YOU MAY CHOOSE TO DO IT DIFFERENTLY, DAVE 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Get a job in a surfer movie and make enough money to fix the car up nice. Sounds like you want to be an actor and put on a show, might as well get paid for it. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Wildeisen Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I have formulated my own line of products for saving old finishes. I have not brought it to market yet(stalled in the patent process) It is a one step system, that is applied in direct sun light. It uses a secret photosynthesis process. Kind of like a chia pet, but better. It works on all paints and chrome, chrome takes two coats. Here is a before and after shot. I think it will change the way we see and approach restoration/builds. I am hoping to sell it for three payment of $39.99 dollars. And will most likely do a"if you act now" type of thing and offer two bottles. 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 2 minutes ago, Xander Wildeisen said: I have formulated my own line of products for saving old finishes. I have not brought it to market yet(stalled in the patent process) It is a one step system, that is applied in direct sun light. It uses a secret photosynthesis process. Kind of like a chia pet, but better. It works on all paints and chrome, chrome takes two coats. Here is a before and after shot. I think it will change the way we see and approach restoration/builds. I am hoping to sell it for three payment of $39.99 dollars. And will most likely do a"if you act now" type of thing and offer two bottles. Where do I send my money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Wildeisen Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I know demand will be high, that is why I have not talked about this. It will shut down the paint industry. Right now people are after this secret sauce for paint. I am asking all of you to please keep it on the down low, until it hits the market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWLawrence Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Getting back to the original question about using linseed oil: Cli55er over on the PackardInfo site had a series of posts on his 55 Packard Clipper project blog about using linseed oil to preserve the original and worn finish. It was a multi-step process and turned out quite nicely. Suggest you take a look at it. JWL 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 (edited) I have a 41 Ford Truck that was clear-coated by the previous owner to preserve the patina. Anyway, that is my guess. The clear coat did not give it that deep shiny look that it appears you want to avoid. He may have only applied one coat. It darkened the surface rust, but looks age appropriate. Here's a few shots for your interest. I removed old repairs and made patch panels. The shiny color you see in the next photo is for contrast against the clear-coated paint. It is a spray can paint application applied only to protect the bare metal from rust in the repair area. In short, I'd encourage you to consider a clear coat. Edited January 2, 2018 by kgreen spelling, I am a rotten speller! (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I have real problems with the concept of "preserving the patina". Patina is a process. The patina on a car today will be different from the patina on a car tomorrow or a week from today or a year from today. "preserving the patina" produces a surface that is in every way as fake and historically inaccurate as any repaint. "Preserving the patina" freezes the natural decay process of the finish at a specific point in time. You may be doing your best to prevent further deterioration of the finish and that is great but you certainly are not preserving the original finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 I can't speak from experience on the rusted areas other than to suggest the possible use of a rust converter product that stops it and turns it to a black oxide finish, I'm sure others will know more. I successfully brought back the oem lacquer finish on a 34 Packard. Like you I was unsure what to do but in the end I used a foam pad on a slow speed buffer with Auto Magic RFS-3 liquid wax only. Due to the amount of finish removed even by the wax I resolved to do this one time only, since the car was garaged and not driven in wet weather. I was very happy with the results and it greatly improved the look of the finish. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 After I have cut and buffed anything, I usually just glaze it with something after that for maintenance of the finish. Meguiar's used to have a show car glaze. I think it was like #34 or something that worked really well. It didn't last long if the car was left in the sun for more than a day or so, but it went back on easy and left no paint residue on the rag so I know it wasn't working the finish any further. Most of the cars I have done, had bad paint in one way or another so anything was an improvement. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 18 hours ago, leosdad said: About once a month,I wipe down my original paint 57 Bel Air with WD-40.A little shiny to start.but dulls down nicely after a couple of days.Try it on an inconspicuous spot and see how you like.At any rate it does wear off. I used to use WD-40 on a dull oxidized camper shell that was black. It came out great but would also need reapplication. The only problem was it attracted dust like a super magnet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 This is my 38 buick when I was done "restoring" it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruffsup Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 20 hours ago, Harold said: Someone on another forum used Penetrol on his paint and it brought up a nice shine. Seems to hold up pretty well. NEVER under any circumstances use penetrol for this! I tried it on my original paint 1936 Ford fire truck and it removed the paint! I have an original paint 1913 Harley that has remained stable over 35 years ownership with the occasional spraying of WD40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Wildeisen Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 I am Mixing salt, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and putting it on the bare metal on my courtesy car to cause rust. Strange world we live in. It is working pretty good, just waiting on plate stickers from the DMV. And take it out to see how it drives. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 11 hours ago, Xander Wildeisen said: I am Mixing salt, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and putting it on the bare metal on my courtesy car to cause rust. Strange world we live in. It is working pretty good, just waiting on plate stickers from the DMV. And take it out to see how it drives. I achieved the rust on my new body panels on my 38 Buick by spraying stright bleach on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 As for the clear, I am pretty sure it can be flattened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 22 hours ago, Roger Walling said: This is my 38 buick when I was done "restoring" it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Why does it have 2 wiper towers on the cowl and 1 on the roof? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 On 1/2/2018 at 6:23 PM, Xander Wildeisen said: I am Mixing salt, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and putting it on the bare metal on my courtesy car to cause rust. Strange world we live in. It is working pretty good, just waiting on plate stickers from the DMV. And take it out to see how it drives. My F-150 rusts just at the sight of salt and the paint peels every time the wind blows. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mercer09 Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 I know you said you didnt want to clear coat-but I use a satin finish and it comes out nice and holds up for several years. I have also use old motor oil, but only lasts a few months............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 4, 2018 Share Posted January 4, 2018 19 hours ago, GARY F said: Looks like its towing a Fierro. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 On 1/3/2018 at 4:18 PM, GARY F said: Why does it have 2 wiper towers on the cowl and 1 on the roof? The 39 Buick uses a chain drive in the wiper towers and they broke after I spent too much time trying to get them to work, so I installed 2 elect wipers on the roof. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted January 5, 2018 Share Posted January 5, 2018 On 1/4/2018 at 11:45 AM, JACK M said: Looks like its towing a Fierro. Yes it is towing a Fierro. The finished product below. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buffalowed Bill Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Be careful of the rust converters recommended in some of the responses(Ospho). I love the stuff, been using it for over forty years, but when the rusty areas butt up against painted surfaces, that you want to save, there's a problem. I will guarantee that any paint touched with this stuff, will lift. Another caution, panel will no longer look like red rust, it will be black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Ospho has never harmed any paint I have used it on ( rock chips etc.). Might try a spot to verify on any project you are working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 On 1/5/2018 at 2:20 PM, Roger Walling said: Yes it is towing a Fierro. The finished product below. That looks fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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