Where can I get new copper brake lines and new brass line nuts for 1930 Plymouth?

[hursst]

I have a 1930 Plymouth with a damaged and kinked copper brake line and a cracked brass nut. Does anyone know a place that can fabricate new copper brake lines and associated brass nuts? Thanks!

[Guest kipkeith]

WHY? HVAC OR AIR COMPRESSORS RUN COPPER AND BRASS. OLD RV REFRIDGERATORS. (AIR BRUSH CUSOM PAINT ARTIST) DUSTY

[hursst]

Why? Because that's what the car came with originally and I am keeping the car authentic.

[Guest kipkeith]

TOO BAD YOUR IN VA, I GOT 2 RV REFRIDGERATORS ON THE PORCH YOU COULD PULL THE COPPER TUBING AND BRASS NUTS OFF. WHAT SIZE IF THEY'L WORK I'D MAIL EM.

Edited April 7, 2013 by kipkeith
SPELLING (see edit history)

[Guest kipkeith]

IT Cant leak cause they have to liquid to gas cycle anhydrous ammonia . how is pre fab new, better than 1940s oxidized off some thing else? (sorry I'm a girl.) DUSTY

[sambarn]

Hursst, I apologize for the fact that you seem to be getting only snarky attempts at humor and confusing references to refridgerators. Copper Line in available and all those ends and fittings can be found and flared onto the line. It can be a little slow but fairly easy. Be patient and the true gurus on tech will answer in the next 24 hours or so with very likely links for the parts you need. You may also try The Plymouth section of the DF. I wasn't aware that the30 Plymouth had hydraulic brakes. I thought they would be mechanical like my 34 Chevy. Changing them out is a good idea, copper can weaken over the years and rupture.

[sambarn]

So here is a thread from 2002 that may help a bit

http://forums.aaca.org/f120/copper-brake-lines-they-safe-157263.html

[hursst]

Sambarn,

Thanks for the info; I appreciate it. Yes, Plymouths had hydraulic brakes from day one in 1928. My copper tubes themselves are in excellent condition except for the slight kink in one and the cracked nut on another. I'll hold out and see one some of the other folks have to say.

[Guest Mochet]

Use Cunifer lines. They look just like copper, but are better for brake work.

Phil

[hursst]

Thanks Mochet. I'll look into this.

[Friartuck]

Flare tubing nuts are available from Napa auto parts store (search on-line under long tubing nuts). They're made by either Gates or Eaton) If visiting a store, they're in the flare fitting bins. Macmaster-Carr the industrial supplier also carries them. (hard to purchase just a single one from Mcmaster). You'll need to double flare the ends for brake application. Would think someone in your area of VA would have flaring and bending tools (check your local region).

[jpage]

You can use standard copper tubing but you might try copper air brake tubing if it's available in 3/16 or 1/4 tube size. Air brake tube is a little thicker for more strength but might be harder to double flare. Brake line fittings are available from most auto parts stores. The tough part is getting the flare correct!

[auburnseeker]

My brake lines on my 36 Chrysler which were all still OE were actually copper plated steel so they looked copper but when you looked close especially at the rear of the car they were starting to surface rust. I took one off and blasted it and it was actually steel. I think the copper plating was merely a protective coating just like cadmium plating. You might double check before replacing yours with copper just incase you have the same type of lines.

You have a nice looking car. It looks very original.

[ply33]

. . . I wasn't aware that the30 Plymouth had hydraulic brakes. I thought they would be mechanical like my 34 Chevy. . .

Every Plymouth ever built from 1928 up had hydraulic brakes.

Thanks for finding that old thread and linking it. That was the first thing I was going to look for when I saw this one.

[keiser31]

ALL Chrysler products had hydraulic brakes starting when they were first built in 1924.

[frank29u]

On my 29 Plymouth, I replaced copper with steel and painted them a copper metallic before installation. I did this when the 4 wheel and master cylinders were sleeved. frank

[dictator27]

I would want to make sure of local regulations regarding the use of copper brake lines. The use of copper lines where I am voids your car insurance if you have an accident caused by a ruptured copper line. We can only use double walled stainless steel tubing. Safety trumps originality.

Terry

[hursst]

Thanks for all the replies, I'll look into all of this and hopefully piece it back together. My lines are definitely all copper; doesn't stick to my industrial-strength magnet. In the US, as long as what is on your car came during your model year, you're good to go. Everything is grandfathered in, as it should be. Can't get into much trouble with high gearing, 45mph top speed and 48 hp anyway.

[nickelroadster]

Copper is not supposed to be double flared. Use the cunifer and it will look right and be safe.

[oldford]

I don't know where you got the idea that "In the US, as long as what is on your car came during your model year, you're good to go. Everything is grandfathered in"...The law states that brakes lines must be double flared "automotive rated" tubing that meets SAE standards. You're asking for trouble with copper....

[dictator27]

The law states that brakes lines must be double flared "automotive rated" tubing that meets SAE standards. You're asking for trouble with copper....

Right on! Granted, you may have a limited top speed and it is unlikely that you will use the car every day, but every time you apply the brakes copper lines flex and will work harden over time. A panic stop at 30 mph could be all it would take to burst a line. Yes, there are lots of areas where what was legal when the car was built is acceptable, but this is one instance where safety definitely is the way to go.

Terry

[rons49]

While in the Army, I was required to investigate a horrific accident on the Clearview Expy in Queens NY. An Army Reserve 2 1/2 ton slammed into the rear of Volkswagen Jetta, instantly incinerating the VW driver who was stopped at a traffic light. It was determined that the cause of the accident was a brake failure due to the rupture of a brake line. The brake lines were Copper. 'nuff said. Copper is easy to bend but suffers from work stress. Think old garden hose under pressure. Recommend Cunifer line also. Easy to work with and used by many foreign manufactures. It won't rust either.

[Seldenguy]

I think that any flare nut that is purchased from the local NAPA store will be CNC machined and will look far from the authenic look that 'hursst' wishs his car to portray. These original nuts can be found at many flea markets and in the hands of club members. I admire hursst's thoughts on his car being original and not following the crowd of doomsmen! --Bob

[hursst]

Seldenguy has it right, just looking for a new nut and maybe a replacement copper brake line; I'm not entering the Great Race with it, just tooling around at slow speeds. Cunifer may be how I end up going once I find a authentic looking nut. I thank everyone for their comments.

Also, I stand by my "run what it came with comment." There has never been an instance that an old car had to be retrofitted with a new technology.

[Matt Harwood]

+1 on the Cunifer tubing. I've used it on both the fuel and oil lines on my '29 Cadillac and it looks great and is very easy to work with. More malleable than copper and 100% approved for brake applications. It is OEM on many European cars, even those in the US. You will need a double-flare for brake lines, however, but they sell tools that will make such a flare and the Cunifer tubing accepts it easily (unlike, say, stainless). I can't recommend the stuff highly enough, it's a pleasure to work with and will out-last even copper. It doesn't get work-hardened or fatigue like copper does, either. A little expensive, but worth it in my opinion.

[ted sweet]

WHAT DOES AACA JUDGING SAY ON THIS IISUE?

[Owen_Dyneto]

Cunifer has already been recommended and I highly recommend you go that route, easier to work with than steel, meets SAE specs, resistant to corrosion and work-hardening, and has a bit of the appearance of copper. Here's one brand I've used, there are others. They are alloys of copper (Cu), nickel (Ni) and sometimes iron/steel (Fe), hence the generic name CuNiFe®.

[Restorer32]

Cunifer as well as fittings are available from FedHill Brake Line.

[Coley]

Safety glass comes to mind. You have to install it on any restoration where the original glass was single window pane.

I watched a Rambler dealer solder a wear hole shut in a steel line.

His explanation was that the old lady only drove the car to the post off and grocery stoe, so didn't need high pressure capability.

Put the copper line in and up your insurance (if it will cover this).....

I also watched an Auto Zone salesman sell a man a couple of ferrel compression fittings and one foot of copper line, to repair a steel brake line.

When I questioned both of their dumb repair I was told to leave.

I have never gone into an Auto Zone since...

Edited April 11, 2013 by Coley
more info (see edit history)

[35cz8]

I don't know anything about these guys, but here is a place on e-bay that sells brake line kits. Perhaps someone on here knows something about them, but it is something to look at and consider. Might not hurt to send an e-mail and see if they have what you need? Once again, I am not familiar with or know anything about this seller, just passing on a possibility. Good luck.

Brake Line Kit Chrysler 1930 1931 1934 1933 1932 1935 Replace Corroded Lines | eBay

[hursst]

"Safety glass comes to mind. You have to install it on any restoration where the original glass was single window pane."

Right, but if you have an existing car in your garage, there is no law that states you have remove all your glass from the car and replace it with safety glass, although that is common sense if you are restoring your car.

[hursst]

35cz8, thank you for the tip, but these are generic replacement kits in steel; not what I need for my car. I appreciate your help either way!

I've decided to keep my upper line from the fluid reservoir from the master cylinder the same, since it is not under pressure, and I'm going to try Heavy Wall Copper Tubing from here: Classic & Exotic Service, Inc. to replace my short kinked line (thanks for 28Plymouth Cpe.! for the link!)

I'd like to thank all the posters for their advice and time, but I think I'm going to try the Heavy Wall stuff and keep my car as authentic as possible. Still looking for an authentic or authentic-looking line nut 5/8" for a 5/16" line, if anyone knows of any.