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1938 Studebaker front end repair.


SC38dls

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Hey Dave,

 

Great job on the paint match.

 

Real toss up on clear or wax. Not all, clears are created equal and they can change the way the color shows or they can can give you a perfect match on your repaired section and they can refuse to blend and change the color of your existing clear and outline your repair. Wax can cover your new paint and it looks perfect today, but a day in the sun and you can have a rough white area that highlights the micro pits of the old finish around your repair and leave you with something that looks like clear coat separation. 

 

Wax comes off easy with a solvent damp rag, clear will last forever and requires more sanding to remove. If you have a not to prominent section where new paint meets the old, clear a silver dollar sized area and wax a silver dollar sized area, let it dry a couple of days and see what it looks like in bright sunlight 

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On 11/16/2021 at 4:11 PM, GARY F said:

I am no body man but I like the rag on my fingers and rub over everything to feel for high and low spots.

I think tissue works the same way. Be carful as some tissues have lotion in them and you don't want that on your fenders. 

Your work is coming along very nicely. 

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On 11/18/2021 at 1:43 PM, SC38dls said:

I can get a gallon of lacquer (real lacquer)

 

Real? There is nitrocellulose and acrylic lacquer in the automotive field. There is a whole world of furniture lacquer. Not applicable here. Only acrylic lacquer is available new, AFAIK. Bill Hirsch does not list it anymore. That was the last supplier I used (40 years ago!). Of course, some people still have it laying around and sell it from time to time.

 

Sanding and polishing the top paint layer has been called color cut and buff since when everything was color painted, no clear coat. The name stuck, even though most everything is base coat/clear coat systems nowadays and the cut and buff is in the clear.

Edited by Frank DuVal (see edit history)
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On 11/18/2021 at 11:27 AM, edinmass said:

why I spin wrenches and don't even attempt body work. It's part art.......and I am NO artist. 

Let me finish this

 

It's part art..... and part Black Magic!😉

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Frank, when I said real lacquer I was referring to the old style nitrocellulose lacquer automobile paint that is in an unopened gallon can about 8 to 10 years old. The original purchaser bought it for an old Buick (I may have the make wrong  as he also had a Packard) he sold before it got to the paint stage. He sold the paint to another friend who also ended up not using it on his project. It is not the newer acrylic lacquer of today. I have all the faith in the world this is the same type lacquer used back in 38 on my car and not the newer acrylic lacquer. Because the original buyer has taken an interest in my rebuild he suggested I contact his friend, who also was happy someone working on a prewar car could use it. They even offered it at what he paid for it eight years ago. Not only are they true car guys but both are very nice generous people. 
dave s 

Edited by SC38dls (see edit history)
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Dave:

 My friend who painted his 1916 Ford Model T in 1957 saved the already mixed DUCO #99 Jet Black (nitrocellulose lacquer) in a gallon thinner container. He gave it and some other old paint to me about 10 years ago. Last year I used it to spot in my rear fender and splash apron on my 1925 Buick that had been painted probably in the late 1960s. I shot it as it was from the can and I was quite pleased how well it did blend. Not bad for over 64 years old!

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11/25/21 it’s turkey day Benny! 
 

Primed and wet sanded. First coat of color put on. Will put one or two more coats on soon. A couple runs to take care of and some  places I could have done better prep work. But it’s a driver and I’m happy with the way it looks so that’s the most important part. On the rear I color sanded with the Meguiar’s compound and then did the clear and use it again. Plan on doing same here as it blended pretty well on the rear for color match. 
Hope everyone has a good safe Thanksgiving and you don’t over eat the turkey!  
dave s 

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Edited by SC38dls (see edit history)
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Larry, you are right. Lacquer dries from only evaporation, so even 100 or 1000 year old lacquer (yes, it is very old technology, made from lac beetles) can be reconstituted with lacquer thinner and shot from a spray gun.  Enamel dries by both evaporation and oxidation, so it cannot be reused. Once enamel dries in the can, it is unusable

 

Yes, Dave, Acrylic Lacquer did not come along until the 1950s for automotive use. Like R-M Magic Mirror on GM cars. I'm not sure if Studebaker used lacquer or enamel in 1938. By 1950 they were using enamel. If you want to see what is on your car now in places, put lacquer thinner on a rag and soak a small place. If the paint comes of, it is lacquer. If it just softens or does nothing, it is enamel.

 

To those who think car companies buff cars, that is a lot of labor, so the only buffing done is to fix problems so the car can be shipped. The paint technology, even back in the 50s at GM with lacquer paint, was reflow paint. The bodies are sprayed (or dipped) and then put in an oven to reflow the paint. This is on a bare body, as the temperature is too high for upholstery or wiring, Not a process that can be done later unless you got some reflow paint and a booth capable of 300 degrees F.😉  People who say they got "factory paint" to refinish their car are mistaken! No way can that be used without high heat. Way higher than the baking booths used by the collision industry.

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I have been in the assembly plants and observed the reflow process of painting vehicles many times. 

 

Standing at the end of the ovens, the paint looks like it is quivering/bouncing on the sheet metal.   Very similar to seeing a "mirage" in the desert.  

 

When done the paint has flowed very level and even.

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Ed, it may be just such a unique paint job on a never seen before car at PB they will make special consideration. Especially when they see your name as the co-entry and mechanic for the car. After all you did fix the distributor. I’m sure that will change your reputation at PB in the judges mind.  
dave s 

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2 hours ago, SC38dls said:

Ed, it may be just such a unique paint job on a never seen before car at PB they will make special consideration. Especially when they see your name as the co-entry and mechanic for the car. After all you did fix the distributor. I’m sure that will change your reputation at PB in the judges mind.  
dave s 

 

None of them like me as it is...........🤣

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11/5/21. Just been buffing and started to assemble bumper and lights. I’m waiting for parts for the lights. The sockets had enough corrosion on them to make it better to replace them. Cleaned up the headlight reflectors so that should help if I’m out later than I planned. Got the parking lights mounted on the fenders but need sockets for them also. Suppose to be here by Wednesday, if so I will finish and post pics by Friday!   Pic shows top one before cleaning bottom after cleaning. 
dave s 
 

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Edited by SC38dls (see edit history)
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Now you're making me feel bad! I just polished up the reflectors for my 1915 model T runabout, and half assembled the headlamps in the past couple days. I have to pick up some new light bulbs before final assembly. My reflectors did not come out nearly as nice as yours did! However, mine are more than a quarter century older, so that is my excuse and I am sticking with it!

The buckets and rims have been ready to assemble for two years now. I even have two original era clear glass lenses in the rims now!

 

Just my weird cockeyed way of saying "Beautiful!"

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Wayne, I tried a couple cleaners and got nowhere. I wear a gold wedding band and after buffing the fenders I notice my ring shined better than it has in a long time. So I tried Meguiars #2 finishing compound just doing it by hand. It took five minutes with the compound and then another five just shining them. I was surprised it worked so well. Started in a very small area just to be sure it wouldn’t harm them and it was ok. 
dave s 

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Dave, I have one model T reflector that was showing some nice silver still on it. However, most of it was encrusted with something hard and nasty. I tried using glass stovetop cleaner on it. It seemed to work okay on the areas that had decent silver still showing, but the encrusted areas (whatever it was?) had damaged the original silvering beyond salvage. I would be a bit afraid the glass stovetop cleaner might be too harsh for the thin silver plating, although it is basically just glass polish. 

I had two other model T reflectors with mostly good silver from well kept original lamps I bought years ago. One of them was actually pretty nice, and polished fairly nice. The other one had some rust issues around the outer edges that I used some old silver paint to more or less hide the bad areas behind the lens. On both of the better reflectors, I used good old fashion tooth paste to polish them. Heloise would be proud of me! They both look pretty good, but not as nice as yours does!

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12/10/21. It’s Friday Benny and Gracie has your toy!  Still waiting for the headlight sockets that were supposed to be here yesterday. Now tracking says by 9 pm today but the mail has already arrived. Will check in an hour and tracking will probably say tomorrow or Monday!  I may go postal waiting for the post office!  Well not really. 
dave s 

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Edited by SC38dls (see edit history)
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I have a lot of people to thank for all the help, instruction and suggestions you have given me. I need to go back thru the thread to be sure I don’t miss anyone. I do know there were over 60 of you that did that and I would love to drive around the country, in the 38 Studebaker of course, buy each one a good lunch or dinner or just a cold one. This was truly an AACA group effort. I really believe this is the only forum that would have done something like this and especially put up with my questions and inept capabilities in body work. With your help it has come out ok. The 38 is back on the road!  Total cost was just under $1400 and a lot of time. Much lower than the $29000+ the insurance quote was and I don’t have a salvage title. Thank you all. 
dave s 

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Dave , You start work next week.......see you then!

 

Looks great. Pride in accomplishment is priceless. I don't think it would have come out as well if I did it. Most of all, you still have your own car, with it's known service and driving history. Not much better than that. Congratulations and Merry Christmas!

 

PS- Change you name to McGiver now..........🤠

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Dave, this has to be a really great Christmas/Holiday present for all of us to see and read. What a great way for not only you to end the year but for us as well. All to see a wonderful car and a hard working guy who loves that car ( and his puppies!) and DRIVES his car too. Gives all of us a renewed hope that better times in all aspects are in the future. Thank you for sharing it, I can imagine the pain you felt recounting the damage you saw but also the uplift to your spirits as it came back to the way it was.

Everyone reading this - it can be done, do not be afraid to attempt to do things on your own , but ask a lot of advice and take photos of what you do before disassembly!

Thank you AACA for these forums, what a learning experience and education for all of us collectors of "used cars".

Best wishes to Dave and all of you.

 

Walt Gosden

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Dave, you have accomplished quite a feat!  Like others have said something to be very proud of. I know there were times you thought it would never be back to normal and times that your body was aching beyond the relief of a couple of tylenol.  But I am sure you agree that doing the work yourself and in a very short time I will add, was much better than sending it off to a body shop (no disrespect meant to any body shops) and sitting around home for months and months and months wondering if anything was being done.

 

CONGRATS! on a job well done.

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Wonderful! And in a surprisingly short time!

 

Your next mission, should you chose to accept it, is to post pictures of the car, often with the dogs, sometimes you, or friends of yours, with historic buildings you visit, and other collector cars you meet along the way!

 

You have done well my friend.

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1912 STAVER, 1932 PLYMOUTH PB SEDAN, 58L-Y8, 60 FLAT TOP, 8E45E, 95CARDINAL, AL1630, BEN BRUCE AKA FIRST BORN, BHIGDOG, BIG BEAT, BLOO, BUFFALOWED BILL, CARL LaFONG, CHUDWAH, DAVE 39MD, DIBARLAW, DIGGER914, ED LUDDY, EDinMASS, EMTEE, FF JONES, FOSSIL, FRANK DUVAL, GARY ASH, GARY F, GEORGE ROHRBACH, GRAHAM MAN, GRIMY, HAROLD, HUDSY WUDSY, J H BOLAND, JACK M, JIM SKELLY, JUST DAVE, LARRY SCHRAMM, LAUGHING COYOTE, MATT HARWOOD, MIKE 6024, MR SPEEDYT, NICKELROADSTER, OREGON DESERT MODEL 45, PAUL DOBBIN, PKHAMMER, PMHOWE, PMHOWE, PREWARNUT, TA KERRY, TAYLORMADE, TTR, WALT G, WAYNE SHELTON, ZIMM 63.
 

The only words I have and I know they are not enough is THANK YOU, Thank each and every one of you.  You are much appreciated for every helpful instruction, suggestion and encouragement post you all made. You are what AACA is all about, helpful, kind, intelligent, friendly car people. I am honored to have gotten to know you all in a very small way thru this thread. With your input I believe it may just encourage other members to give body work a try. It was a great learning experience and I am very happy I took it on with your help. Best of the 38 is running and the title is just a good old normal title not a salvage one. Thanks again, you all are the best.

dave s 

 

ps- Wayne - I accept the challenge Mr. Sheldon. Now I just have to find the rest of the IM  (interestedly mobile) team to take on this adventure. Any takers for a road trip? 

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Edited by SC38dls (see edit history)
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