• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About AL1630

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Western Idaho

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I would hope it's not the water pump, I've already replaced that with a NOS one.
  2. This weekend I put in a thermostat, 180 degrees. Driving this morning with the ambient temperature about 25 degrees, the engine didn't even get up to temperature on my 10 minute drive. This afternoon, it's been about 60 and the temp gauge would get well above the middle especially when idling. As I mentioned before, my gas pedal doesn't return all the way, and if I pulled it back to the right idle speed, the temperature would drop, but as soon as i started moving it would rise again. Turning on the heater also dropped the temperature.
  3. Thank you, I'll look into getting the distributor rebuilt. I'll also try the vacuum timing.
  4. I got a dwell meter and hooked it up, and when I gave the engine gas, the dwell dropped by 10-15 degrees. I think I may have finally found the culprit (Or a big one anyway). The tachometer on the dwell meter also said that the engine is idling way too fast-I think that my throttle isn't returning all the way to idle, even after I replaced the spring.
  5. I'll try to track down a dwell meter to test. Should the dwell stay the same at any RPM or should it change as it increases? The engine also seems to shake a bit if revved up in neutral, and sometimes when it's cold and idling. Those symptoms seem to have developed fairly recently. Could those also be a timing issue?
  6. I have coils in both upper and lower hoses. Water seems to flow pretty well with the garden hose. It's been a lot cooler outside recently and the engine is staying cooler now. I should probably go to a shop, it seems like I've crossed out pretty much everything.
  7. I was able to borrow a blue liquid tester from the parts store, and it stayed blue, so hopefully there's no combustion leakage. I also did a compression test and got 130 PSI or above on all cylinders. I also got all new plugs to put in. I guess at this point the most likely cause is probably rust in the water jackets, unless someone thinks of something else.
  8. Unfortunately, even after driving on the highway, mileage doesn't seem to change much. I pulled the plugs - they're in order from #6 on the left to #1 on the right. They are the same plugs that were in the engine before I changed the rings, which may explain some of the blackening.
  9. I might have to pull out a core plug sometime. What makes me worried it's a bigger issue than dirty cooling passages is that the engine runs ok, not great, and only gets about half the MPGs it's supposed to. I tried tuning some stuff and got it from 10 to 13 mpg, but last time i filled up it dropped back to 10. The car is supposed to get at least high teens/low 20s for mileage. Could these 2 problems be related or caused by the same issue?
  10. When I pulled off the water pump, it looked clean and I couldn't feel any rust or gunk buildup when i poked around again. Of course, there could be more hiding in the block. I might have to try the temperature gun if I can find one. All my hoses are just a few months old, I would hope they aren't the problem.
  11. 195 is in the middle, the factory service manual says that's the stock thermostat temperature. I'm fairly certain the gauge works, on a cold morning it warms up more slowly than a hot day, but i haven't tested with a thermometer. The radiator doesn't seem to have foam in it and the oil isn't milky. Rad cap is working ok, it was new with the radiator and holds pressure.
  12. I was able to borrow a vacuum pump from a neighbor, and the vac advance seems to be working. It's just a generic aluminum one. It didn't have a radiator when I got it as it had been sitting for a long time. I replaced the head gasket already, hopefully that's not the issue.
  13. I haven't been able to test it. You need a hand vacuum pump to test it, right? My local parts stores don't have one to rent. Is there a different way, or do I need to buy a pump?
  14. No clutch, the fan is always driven when the engine is running.
  15. I tested it in a pot on the stove before installing it, and it opened at 195 degrees (Stock temperature). I had it in with the pointed end facing toward the radiator, which i assume is correct? What's strange to me is that this issue persists even with no thermostat when it's relatively cool outside.