The Car Which Shall Not Be Named III (1935 Lincoln K)

[EmTee]

Hmmmm...  It might be about time to begin thinking about a name for this car (and a new title for this thread). 

[38Buick 80C]

15 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Hmmmm...  It might be about time to begin thinking about a name for this car (and a new title for this thread). 

 

I vote Eleanor... "The one car no matter how many times...something always goes wrong"... 😕

 

Edited June 24, 2023 by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)

[TAKerry]

Thanks for the ride home, very enjoyable. And typical for a Trans Am, will pass anything but a gas station!

[95Cardinal]

44 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Hmmmm...  It might be about time to begin thinking about a name for this car (and a new title for this thread). 

I agree!

Looks like a Ruby to me...

[Matt Harwood]

I got a late start today and didn't get as far as I wanted. I took my oldest son to take his test for his learner's permit and--sadly--he failed. He was crestfallen, but there's no limit to the number of times you can take it. I suggested that maybe he study for the next time and he agreed. He just went in cold thinking it would be a snap. In reality, they ask really esoteric questions like, "If two vehicles traveling in opposite directions reach a stop sign intersection at the same time, who goes first?" It isn't obvious stuff. So hopefully he'll do some studying and will nail it next time. 

 

Anyway, with my late start I tackled the lower radiator hose first. It has a slight leak that would leave a 6-inch puddle under the car after a drive. Not huge and not worth panicking over, but if I'm going to put expensive coolant in it, well, it can't leak. So I took everything apart and tried to re-seal it. I assumed the problem was that I used those Gates shrink-to-fit hose clamps, so that's the first thing I removed. I expected to damage the silicone hose underneath, so I had prepared by buying a replacement, which steps down from 2.5 inches to 2.25. It's a nice fit with the stainless tube that makes up a bulk of the lower hose. 

 

I cleaned and sanded the water pump inlet a bit--it's cast iron and was a little rough. I figured that was the likely source of the leak. Once it was clean and smooth, I used some gasket dressing on the inlet and the silicone connector. I like gasket dressing because it never sets so it should be easy to disassemble everything at some point in the future. Then I clamped it up with new stainless hose clamps.

 

And it still leaked. I took a 10-mile drive and came back to the shop. It took a little longer and the leak was a little smaller (about a 2-inch puddle instead of a 6-inch puddle), but it still leaks. Craps.

 

What do I do to seal it up now? RTV of some kind? That's a sure thing, but it's not exactly easy to remove. Or do I just leave it alone for a while and hope the silicone hose takes a set and seals itself up? It's just water in there now, so I don't really care, but I can't leave water in it forever. Eventually I'd like to have some anti-freeze and No-Rosion.

 

What to do, what to do?

 

Removed the original silicone connector

and cleaned up the water pump inlet.

 

Then I reinstalled the stainless lower hose

and tightened the hose clamps.

 

But after a drive, it was still seeping around 

the silicone connector at the water pump.

How do I cure this? RTV?

 

A little disappointed but not enough to go home; I still wanted to get something else done. I didn't really have the time nor energy to tackle the points so I decided to try to install the side-view mirror that I bought a few weeks ago. The Lincoln never had side mirrors, but sidemount mirrors were an available accessory. I don't like them and they don't do a very good job of being mirrors, so I wanted something else. I saw this green convertible with a graceful curved hinge mirror, so I found a set of those and bought them.

 

Hinge mirror on this car looks pretty good.

 

Every time I drive the car, I glance at the non-existent side mirror about 10 times before I remember it's not there. So I spent some time modifying the mirror to accommodate the 5/16 hinge pins on the Lincoln (the mirror is set up for 1/4-inch pins). I also modified a modern hinge pin to fit snugly and hold the assembly in place. I got it positioned and then stopped.

 

  

I mocked up the hinge mirror and then stopped.

I'm not really sure I want it.

 

Modified hinge pin ready to tap into place

but I hesitated. Once it's in place, it's going

to be a bear to remove. Am I really sure I 

want these mirrors?

 

I hesitated because I'm not sure I like the mirrors. I prefer the clean look without them and after the shellacking I'm getting over the fog lights, I'm not sure more bling is the answer. On the other hand, I really miss not having a side mirror and it could be considered a safety thing, especially when backing out of the garage. Melanie wants the mirror for safety reasons and ostensibly, she's going to be driving this car. But she's leaving the ultimate decision to me.

 

So I didn't tap the hinge pin into place and left it hanging so I could think about it overnight.

 

What say you, o great elders of the internet?

 

[1957Birdman]

Ninety-nine out of one hundred people who see the car will never know that the mirror didn't come with the car originally. It is a safety feature and I say go for it, that is unless someone else has a better idea. 

Lew Bachman

1957 Thunderbird

[alsancle]

I have been putting the suction cup mirrors that Ed suggested on all my cars. They work well, and you can take them off. However, I do not hate the one you are using.

[Matt Harwood]

10 hours ago, TAKerry said:

Thanks for the ride home, very enjoyable. And typical for a Trans Am, will pass anything but a gas station!

Right now I'm getting about 7 MPG. 🤑

[MCHinson]

For safety, I would install the mirror. That mirror looks as good as any that you could put on it and it will make the car safer to drive. 

[ply33]

Here is another worthless opinion in favor of installing the mirrors. At least the driver side one though symmetry might call for both.

[keiser31]

2 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

Right now I'm getting about 7 MPG. 🤑

With the new mirrors you may end up getting 6 MPG....

[Bloo]

2 hours ago, ply33 said:

symmetry might call for both.

Symmetry might, but the second mirror is likely to be useless. It really is amazing how often a passenger side mirror mounted in a symmetrical place winds up completely blocked from the driver's view. If the driver can see it, it is probably still useless because it is small. The further from the driver's eye the mirror is, the less area available to see. A convex mirror helps a little. I'd want someone to hold the mirror in place for a test before I committed to it.

 

Edited June 25, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Stude Light]

I use these clamp on door edge mirrors on my LaSalle

A quick Google search turned up these

https://www.amazon.com/STREET-STAINLESS-UNIVERSAL-MIRROR-CHROME/dp/B00AMO2S7C/ref=asc_df_B00AMO2S7C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647222620937&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=556377016371047015&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058213&hvtargid=pla-729395923644&psc=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqNqkBhDlARIsAFaxvwwHpdAz8Vye6CZIMucFv_ZgfAgMZgva6MYhdRN0VTgFt2SSMllInYIaAgEVEALw_wcB

 

[EmTee]

Two comments:

 

1) The picture of the cast lower hose nipple makes it look as though it is tapered.  Is it actually tapered toward the end?

 

 

If so, that probably explains the leak.  The clamp is really only clamping at one edge.  If this is the case, I'd determine the best clamp location, then cut a thin (maybe 1/8" ~ 3/16") wide piece of the shrink-clamp material and install it (i.e., shrink it in place) where the edge of the metal clamp will sit on the smaller side of the nipple.  Then, while the hose is still warm from the heat gun, tighten the metal clamp over it.  Check the clamp and tighten as required over the next few drive cycles until it takes a set and no longer allows further 'snugging'.

 

2) With regard to the side-view mirror, what if you prep and paint it to match the color of the car?  That would make it blend-in and I think it would almost disappear when looking at the car from a few feet away.  Next best might be the suction-cup option, though that will probably look awful while the car is being driven.  Since you have the mirror, I'd be tempted to bead blast, prime and paint it.  As far as the passenger side mirror is concerned - don't bother...

 

 

Edited June 25, 2023 by EmTee (see edit history)

[alsancle]

These are the ones we have been using.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082TXY224

 

 

[ply33]

12 hours ago, Stude Light said:

I use these clamp on door edge mirrors on my LaSalle

 

I have a clamp on mirror on my driver side door and I hate the way that it damages the painted surface it clamps on.

 

The hinge pin setup @Matt Harwood showed in his photo would not have that problem. And, as ugly as they are when installed, the suction cup style shown by @alsancle don’t have that issue either.

 

Had I known about the suction cup style years ago when I installed my clamp on mirror I probably would have gone with them.

[AB-Buff]

6 hours ago, alsancle said:

These are the ones we have been using.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082TXY224

 

 

Will that suction cup sick to a door with paint. If Matt thinks his is hard to see out of his sedan, try a three window coupe. It’s miserable. When I back up into a spot at a car show, I have them stand in front of me so I can see them,  sometimes they don’t understand why I want them in front, they would if they sat in my seat and looked in that little tiny mirror on that spare tire. Those are pretty worthless. You have to kind of move your head around a lot to see anything behind you. They’re just a little better than nothing, I’d like to try the suction cup mirror out. That sounds like a good thing.  👍🏻

[Stude Light]

44 minutes ago, ply33 said:

have a clamp on mirror on my driver side door and I hate the way that it damages the painted surface it clamps on.

I wrapped a rubber piece around the clamped area so no issues for me.

[Matt Harwood]

I dug in today and tackled the points and reset the dwell. A pre-adjustment check verified that both sets of points were still at about 48 degrees, much too high. So I opened up the distributor, removed the rotor and had a look.

 

Oddly enough, there are two different types of points in there. The driver's side had an adjustable fixed point, while the passenger side adjusted by means of loosening the screws and rotating the mounting base a bit using a cam-like screw in the middle. This struck me as odd because the points are each controlling half the engine and it's essentially two 6-cylinder engines. Why different points? I don't see any evidence that the distributor was modified or that these points don't belong there. Odd.

 

Driver's side points use an

adjustable fixed point.

 

While the passenger side has

an adjustable base.

 

Regardless of the type of point, I was able to adjust them properly. I was pleased to see that my dwell meter could read at cranking speeds, so I was able to sneak up on the correct reading on the driver's side. Eventually, after some trial-and-error, I got it to about 35 degrees. Close enough, especially since dwell will go up as the rubbing block wears--it'll wear into proper spec over time. I locked down the points, put the distributor back together, and made sure that everything was operational by firing the engine. No problems.

 

Then I tackled the passenger side points. By loosening the pivot screw (bottom) and the lock screw (top) I could use the center screw as a cam to rotate the base and adjust the gap. However, it was maxxed out at 48 degrees and about .020" and I couldn't widen the gap any farther. So I pulled the points out and used a round file to slightly enlarge the adjustment hole. A few thousandths and I was ultimately able to get this set of points to 35 degrees dwell. I was pleased that I could get the same reading out of both sets and called it close enough. 

 

 

Got both sets of points to dwell at 35 degrees (spec

is 36 degrees). As the rubbing blocks wear, the points

will gradually pull themselves back into spec.

 

Then I reassembled the distributor and hit the starter button. It started, but struggled a bit while cranking. Too much timing. It's important to note that there's a 1:1 relationship between dwell and timing--dwell affects timing although timing does not affect dwell. By pulling out nearly 13 degrees of dwell, I essentially advanced the timing 13 degrees. A test drive demonstrated that everything was healthy, it still lugged down to 4 MPH and pulled cleanly, but it didn't start as easily as it did before. There was a hitch when cranking. I pulled some timing out by rotating the distributor until it would start easily. Nice!

 

Unfortunately, the sky opened up and there was a veritable deluge, so a second test drive was out of the question. I played with the idle a bit as well as the carb mixture, and I can get it to idle very smoothly. But the exhaust still sounds like crap at idle. I was hoping that getting the ignition right would cure that, but no, it did not. Why is it so smooth and quiet up front and so crappy out back? I don't know what else to do, but I know it's not supposed to sound like this.

 

 

While I was working on this stuff, Melanie was taking a needle and thread to the driver's seat. There are a few splits that look very much like someone with a screwdriver in their back pocket sat down and cut the upholstery. To keep it from getting any worse, Melanie stitched it up. It's not invisible, but it's no worse than seeing rips in the upholstery. I've been driving it with a towel over the seat, which is what I'll do in the future, so it won't get any worse. Thanks, Mel!

 

 

Melanie took a needle and thread and 

stitched up a few splits in the front seat

upholstery. Not perfect, but it won't get worse.

 

And while she was there, Melanie made the executive decision to install the mirror. Since she'll be driving the car as much as anyone, she wanted the mirror. I greased it then tapped the hinge pin into place and voila! Mirror installed. It actually looks appropriate and does provide a good view. I can live with it. I'm not going to bother with the passenger side, at least not for now. I doubt it would even be visible.

 

  

Mirror installed. I'm satisfied with the look.

 

Next up will be chasing that leak on the water pump inlet and replacing the goofy glasspack muffler. And a bunch of little stuff that's just annoying like chasing a rattle underneath and tweaking the fit of the sidemount covers.

 

 

Edited June 25, 2023 by Matt Harwood (see edit history)

[Bloo]

31 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

Oddly enough, there are two different types of points in there. The driver's side had an adjustable fixed point, while the passenger side adjusted by means of loosening the screws and rotating the mounting base a bit using a cam-like screw in the middle. This struck me as odd because the points are each controlling half the engine and it's essentially two 6-cylinder engines. Why different points? I don't see any evidence that the distributor was modified or that these points don't belong there. Odd.

When you have a car running as two 6 cylinder engines, one side can be advanced more than the other, and that is of course undesirable. There has to be a way to adjust the timing of the second set to match the first once the dwell is set, or if not, you have to set the dwell a bit wrong on one set to get the timing right. There should be some sort of a timing mark for each bank.

 

If there's not a timing mark for the other bank, try your dialback light. A 6 cylinder fires every 120 crank degrees, so it seems that the 12, with it's banks offset 60 degrees, should be firing the second set of points 60 crank degrees before and after the first. If you check base timing on #1, and then check the last cylinder that fired before #1, you should find it exactly 60 degrees more advanced.

 

Edited June 25, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[1957Birdman]

I wouldn't worry too much about the exhaust sound at idle until you replace the glasspack muffler with something more appropriate. That has got to make a big difference in how the car sounds.

Lew Bachman

1957 Thunderbird

[edinmass]

The exhaust noise doesn’t bother me. Seems like the idle is too fast……what is it set at? Also, synchronizing the points is very important. Your dwell, gap, and timing can be spot on, but you can still be 10 degrees or more out of sync. Without a distributor machine you can just use a static light and check the opening of the points against the marks on the flywheel.

[alsancle]

3 hours ago, AB-Buff said:

Will that suction cup sick to a door with paint. If Matt thinks his is hard to see out of his sedan, try a three window coupe. It’s miserable. When I back up into a spot at a car show, I have them stand in front of me so I can see them,  sometimes they don’t understand why I want them in front, they would if they sat in my seat and looked in that little tiny mirror on that spare tire. Those are pretty worthless. You have to kind of move your head around a lot to see anything behind you. They’re just a little better than nothing, I’d like to try the suction cup mirror out. That sounds like a good thing.  👍🏻

The suction cup is pretty strong. I’m not sure I would put it on paint. This is how we have it mounted typically.
 

[AB-Buff]

28 minutes ago, edinmass said:

The exhaust noise doesn’t bother me. Seems like the idle is too fast……what is it set at? Also, synchronizing the points is very important. Your dwell, gap, and timing can be spot on, but you can still be 10 degrees or more out of sync. Without a distributor machine you can just use a static light and check the opening of the points against the marks on the flywheel.

Well Matt’s  distributor was adjusted on a Sun 404 Distributor machine. Both and Dwell and the synchronization were set according to the book. I have no idea how the dwell changed that much unless somebody messed with it along the way it’s a mystery. But I know the synchronization is right on. He could most certainly throw a timing light on it and look at number two and number one cylinder and they should be the same if it’s dwell the same.  I also verified today that my dwell meter on the Sun machine is correct with another dwell meter and it is right on. 
 

[Matt Harwood]

1 hour ago, edinmass said:

The exhaust noise doesn’t bother me. Seems like the idle is too fast……what is it set at? Also, synchronizing the points is very important. Your dwell, gap, and timing can be spot on, but you can still be 10 degrees or more out of sync. Without a distributor machine you can just use a static light and check the opening of the points against the marks on the flywheel.

 

I had the idle turned up for the first part of the video (you can see me reach in to press the hand throttle back to idle). Base idle is about 650 RPM at the moment. Lower than that and it has a bit of a surge that I haven't been able to tune out. The idle moves around a bit, usually going up, which I presume is due to the engine breaking in as I drive it more and more. I just wish it wasn't so stumbly sounding. It should be a smooth hum. It's not going to be perfect with the cam modifications we made during the rebuild, but I think that snuffle sound should go away. It doesn't sound clean.

 

 

[AB-Buff]

One more thing I would do if you haven’t already done it yet and that is re-torque your intake manifold, and exhaust. I think I went over mine three or four times before it settle down. But if you’re going through some heat cycles, they could loosen up a bit and get an air leak, and that would cause some carburetion issues. Something you need to do to a new rebuild.

[Stude Light]

12 hours ago, AB-Buff said:

One more thing I would do if you haven’t already done it yet and that is re-torque your intake manifold, and exhaust. I think I went over mine three or four times before it settle down. But if you’re going through some heat cycles, they could loosen up a bit and get an air leak, and that would cause some carburetion issues. Something you need to do to a new rebuild.

And head bolts if you haven't already. On my Cadillac flathead, I usually do that three times.

Edited June 26, 2023 by Stude Light (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Well, a frustrating night but I still got a few things done. Last night I drained the cooling system and used some clear silicone to seal up that leaky hose joint. I smeared some on the water pump inlet itself and some on the inside of the hose, then fit them together. I even rotated it a bit to make sure I had even coverage. Then I clamped it in place and let it set up for 24 hours. Today I filled it with yet another 7 gallons of water and watched it. No leak. Then I fired it up. When it got to about 150 degrees, there it was: drip, drip, drip. Craps.

 

 

 

So how the heck do I seal this thing? If some silicone around the joint didn't seal it, what will? Should I use a traditional worm-drive hose clamp instead? Should I have not tightened it again this afternoon after the silicone set up? Should I use something other than silicone like RTV? I just don't know. It's not a critical leak, but eventually I'd like to put something other than plain water in it and have it not drip on the ground everywhere I go. And the weird thing is that it doesn't leak until it gets warm. Usually hoses leak when they're cold and seal up when they get warm. What's going on?

 

Any suggestions? I'm open to anything at this point.

 

Anyway, I still wanted to get something done so I attacked my exhaust tip. The accessory bolt-on one that I've been using loosens up over time and I can't keep it tight. I think the clamping bolts can't stay tight with multiple heat/cool/heat/cool cycles. Eventually it starts to rotate and I'm afraid it'll fall off. So instead, I made a new stainless tip to match the one that Tim made for my '41 Buick. The beveled look is inspired by the Duesenberg J (albeit rotated 90 degrees) and I'm planning to give all my personal cars the same look. 

 

Duesenberg J exhaust tip.

 

Exhaust on my '41 Buick Limited.

 

  

I fabricated this exhaust tip and welded it

to my existing tailpipe.

 

Welding stainless steel to mild steel is a bit of a challenge, so I drilled some holes in the bottom of the stainless tip and used simple plug welds to secure it to the exhaust pipe. They'll hold permanently with no rattles or shaking loose from heat/cool cycles. Easy!

 

Four plug welds secure the

exhaust tip to the tailpipe. A

little grinding and they virtually

disappeared.

 

Eventually I will have Tim make me an all-new stainless exhaust system and then the tip will be the actual exhaust pipe, but until then this looks great and doesn't rattle loose like the other one. Problem solved!

 

Now what do I do about that leaky hose?

[alsancle]

Matt,  go to a modern clamp that you can put a ratchet on.

[Grimy]

51 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

Now what do I do about that leaky hose?

Don't know if this will work for you, Matt, but I've learned the hard way over the years to fit authentic clamps in the center of a piece of hose, snug enough that they won't flop around, and use modern worm gear clamps on the ends until 20-30 heating-cooling cycles have elapsed to create a bit of a bond between the hose and neck.  That is, you'll have four clamps on one section of hose for awhile.  Then, one at a time, remove a modern clamp by opening it completely, breaking the circle, and slide the authentic clamp into place and tighten.  The rationale is that I find it nearly impossible to re-shape a "broken"/"open" authentic clamp end so that it fits properly.

[Matt Harwood]

7 minutes ago, alsancle said:

Matt,  go to a modern clamp that you can put a ratchet on.

 

I'm using these:

 

Should be at least as good as a worm-drive, no?

[alsancle]

2 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

 

I'm using these:

 

Should be at least as good as a worm-drive, no?

 

You would think.  How much thread do you have left when you crank all the way down?

 

Also,  I assume the silicone you used was something like "fast gasket"?

[Matt Harwood]

1 minute ago, alsancle said:

 

You would think.  How much thread do you have left when you crank all the way down?

 

Also,  I assume the silicone you used was something like "fast gasket"?

 

Pretty snug. I broke one by over-tightening it, but they're pretty well torqued on there. I used pure clear silicone, not RTV, but that's my next thought.

 

Using goop of any kind seems like a tractor mechanic solution but I'm not sure what else to do. 

[Grimy]

3 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

Using goop of any kind seems like a tractor mechanic solution but I'm not sure what else to do. 

Well, there is always the tractor mechanic's old stand-by for when it has to be fixed NOW:  Indian Head gasket shellac.  But the only way to remove the hose in the future is by slicing it longitudinally and peeling it off the neck.

[Matt Harwood]

Gasket shellac it is, I guess. I'll take it apart and try again. Thanks, guys.

[Bloo]

24 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

 

I'm using these:

 

Should be at least as good as a worm-drive, no?

Yours is better. The only thing a traditional worm clamp has going for it is the ability to tighten the crap out of the clamp. The cross section isn't round, and they probably cause as many problems as they fix.

 

1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:

Now what do I do about that leaky hose?

Does it fit relatively snug on the pump's nipple? If not, get a hose that fits tighter. If the clamp has to make the hole in the hose a little smaller you'll be fighting that the rest of your life.

 

On the still thumbnail of your youtube (before you click it), it appears the little boss with the plug in it is pushing back on the hose. That isn't good. In fact, pushing back on one spot like that is a good way to start removing a stubborn hose. Maybe it needs to be a little shorter so it doesn't hit.

 

You shouldn't need sealer period. Silicone is better than it used to be, but I don't think it ever worked for something like that. It probably still doesn't. Indian head might. Permatex Anaerobic might. Those are really hard to get apart and should not be necessary.

 

 

 

Edited June 28, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[AB-Buff]

Matt, I don’t use that metal section between the radiator and the water pump. You can aluminate two of those hose clamps by just running a long piece of hose. I get it at Napa, comes in 3’ sections. It’s a real heavy duty hose. Wish I could remember the name of it, you can get it with different colored stripes that indicate how heavy duty it is. I believe it’s like the picture I’ve attached, but mine I think has a white stripe. flat black paint will get ride of stripe.

 

[kuhner]

For badly rusted water necks on my model T I use #2 Permatex. Then use the 2 clamp method, one worm drive and the correct style on the hose. After a couple cycles remove screw type.

The Permatex stay some what pliable and fills any rust divots.

 

 

[dalef62]

Are you sure it is not the hose itself that is leaking?  Could the hose itself be cracked on the inside and the water following the reinforcement threads in the hose and leaking there?

One other thing, are you sure you haven't bottomed out the threads on the clamp?  I do not see much compression on the hose from the clamp?

Edited June 28, 2023 by dalef62 (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Replaced the hose clamp (again) and cranked it as tight as it would go without breaking. Still leaks. Dang. I have one last thing to try and then I guess I'll switch back to rubber hoses.

 

After refilling the cooling system (again) I took the car for a drive. Got some gas--18 gallons for 120 miles of driving, which works out to about 6.6666 miles per gallon. Ugh. With the tank full, I put another 25 miles on it. Unfortunately, I chose my timing poorly, as it was the holiday weekend with rush hour traffic and 85 degree weather. It turned out to be a pretty good stress test for both the car and me, and at one point I was sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic watching the temperature gauge slowly tick upwards. When it hit 200, I veered off and maneuvered through some accommodating people and took a side street. Of course, that side street was a steep uphill slog, so I pushed on and watched the gauge hover around 205.

 

Eventually I got to level ground and could let the car cool off, and it slowly worked its way back down to 185 while I cruised at 40 MPH or so. I guess that's good that it recovers. I hit more traffic, got tangled up in a subdivision with several dead ends, and ultimately had to use my GPS to find my way out (subdivisions are just stupid, aren't they?). 

 

It seems like this is a different car every time I start the engine. Today it decided to run much hotter than last time I drove it. But ultimately I put 25 miles or so on it and it never hiccuped, never stuttered, never acted like anything was wrong. The idle speed crept up once again, but otherwise it showed no signs of distress other than a hot temperature gauge and some limp oil pressure readings. I got back to the shop, parked it where it continued to drip from the radiator hose and the overflow puked a bit. I adjusted the idle back down and then shut it off at about 200 degrees. It didn't fail me yet I was nevertheless a little disheartened.

 

So let me ask you this, my learned friends: are MY expectations unreasonable? 

 

I've only put about 200 miles on this engine, but it runs hotter and has less oil pressure than I would prefer. But at the same time, it runs fine and doesn't seem to get fussy. I didn't even need the electric fuel pump, so vapor lock wasn't an issue. It isn't doing anything that would raise an eyebrow if I didn't have gauges to scrutinize. 

 

Am I being unreasonable for expecting more from this car? My '41 Buick is immune to warm weather, never goes above 190, and never has less than 30 PSI of oil pressure. It doesn't make me nervous when I drive it, not ever. Is it reasonable to have that same expectation from this Lincoln? Will it get better as it continues to break in? Will I just have to adjust my thoughts of what is "normal" for an old car? Is there something I should be doing that I'm not? Everything forward of the firewall is brand new, so why doesn't it act brand new? Why the heck does it run so hot?

 

Or am I just being unreasonable? Should I just be satisfied with it because that's all it can be? Or am I over-thinking it and I should be patient while it continues to break in? Help me feel less discouraged because I'm really trying to make this work.