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1957Birdman

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  1. The torque specs are as follows: Rocker Arm Cover - 2 to 2.5 ft. lbs. Oil Pan to Crankcase - 12 to 15 ft. lbs. Crestline was the top of the line 1954 Ford. The Mainline was the base car. Both could have the 239 CID engine. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  2. I would check with the T-Bird parts suppliers such as Hill's, CASCO, Concours Auto Parts and Prestige Thunderbird. to see what is available. You can also check on Ebay to see when one comes available. Your challenge is to find the correct one for your dad's car. The vendors seem to charge $300 for the core. A rebuilt carburetor seems to go for $400. Pretty expensive, but those people should know what they are doing rebuilding the carburetor. Also check out this link, it contains helpful information: Holley Carburetors and the Holley Custom Shop – Classic Thunderbird Club International (ct
  3. Looks like it was side swiped on the passenger side. It seems to have the original engine with a different carburetor. High mileage, or the driver really had a death grip on the steering wheel. Still at the price or less it looks like a good restoration candidate with a nice 1950's color (Parklane Green maybe). Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  4. It looks more than a little "thread bare" for a car "driven 30,000 miles". It is a "you have got to be dreaming" price for a non-running car. It would be interesting to know what it finally sells for. Bye the way, what is this with cars being "driven" a certain low mileage number. Does that mean the the car was "piloted" for the other 100K it has? IMHO, any person selling a car from the 1950's that claims less than 50K miles better have rock solid documentation to prove it. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  5. I think most of the "need-to-knows" are in the previous responses. I did mine when I pulled the steering column to rebuild the steering box. I pulled the gauges out from behind and the same with the speedometer. It was easier to clean them and repaint the gauge needles after having taken them out of the car. The same for the gauge lenses and bezels. Whether you will need to replace them is a function of the number of times they may have been removed in the last 64 years. If you have a hard time getting them to release they may not have been taken out before which would be good for you. You sho
  6. That is a complex question that I can't answer with a simple yes or no. I am a purist at heart and would rather see the car put back to original condition. If doing that is cost prohibitive than I would look for a replacement engine that retained the character of the car. In other words, Chevy 350s would not be on my list. I would look for engine/transmission combinations that have a similar weight and relatively the same power and gearing. Since I think Ford cars should have Ford power I would look at the early fifties Lincoln flat head eight, the Lincoln 317/368 OHV engines, the Y-Blocks, an
  7. Rusty, We will agree to disagree on the quality of the Ford Y-Block. Many of the problems that the engine had when new were a function of the quality of the oils available in the day. Their high ash content led sludge building up and to overhead oiling problems. This is not a problem with more modern oils. The Y-Block is an inherently balanced engine that has a good amount of low end torque and decent fuel economy. Rusty, I'll agree that trying to get the current engine going makes sense. If it was my engine, I would pull the intake manifold and valley pan to see if it has a lot of
  8. The 239 CID Y-Block was a good replacement for the V-12 in the sense that the power output was similar meaning that the other systems in the car such as suspension and steering shouldn't be overtaxed. That's the good news. Here is the bad news. The 239 was a one year only engine for Ford and it might be difficult to find parts for it. Most likely if the engine will turn over it will have sticking valves that will need to be fixed. This is a known problem with all Y-Block that aren't run regularly. It probably makes sense to swap out this engine for a 272 or 292 Y-Block. In my opinion a 1957 27
  9. Some assembly required! Seems like more than a reasonable price for what you get. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  10. Thanks also to Lee Iacocca. He is the person at Ford that was responsible for the 1/2 year cars. He liked the idea of coming out with special mid-year offerings to boost the lineup for the spring sales season. The Mustang was the first all new car that was offered as a 1/2 year car by Ford. The other 1/2 year offerings (which started with the 1962 Ford lineup) were mostly trim and interior differences. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  11. All 56 and 57 T-Birds have flip open vents in the front fenders, put there to facilitate cooling the car's interior. The 55s don't have these vents and the interior can get pretty hot on a summer's day. On more that one occasion I have had some well meaning soul roll down their window when sitting next to me at a traffic light and tell me that my gas filler door was open. I always thank them for their concern and tell them it is actually a vent, not a gas filler door. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  12. Asking price of $32,500. Convertible top looks a little thread bare and whoever put the top on didn't stretch it taught. Still a nice looking car. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird
  13. Interesting discussion. If I was close to Iowa I would definitely go and take a look at it. The seller does not claim that the mileage is original, but look under the hood. The engine compartment sure looks clean for a fifties car with over 100K miles, if the odometer has flipped over once. If it is a described it is definitely not a basket case. I think it is possible that the car has its original paint and I stand by my statement that the interior is original. I have a friend who owns a 1957 Mark II and the interior definitely looked the same when he bought it as on this car. He restored his
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