Wheelmang Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 I've resorted to an electric fuel pump on my 1926 DB 6V. No further interest, at this point, in trying to make the vacuum tank work. The fuel pump is rated at 1 - 4 PSI. Is a pressure regulator going to be required for this? Thanks for looking Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 I think it will work without a regulator if it`s 1-4 PSI,try without regulator and tell us how it work.! Leif in Sweden. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Not sure I personally would put a regulator in as at 4 psi I think it would be too much but give it a go without and see, you have nothing to lose. I have actually just gone back to the vacuum system on my 27 Chev and it seems to run better now but I did use a electric pump for about 5 years while my frustration with the vacuum system subsided then the other week ago I walked out into the shed and fixed the vacuum system in no time flat all along it was a silly little falt that I didn't pick up. Don't know how I didn't see the problem before but as the frustration sets in I become more and more blind ? Anyway give the electric pump ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Absolutey yes to a regulator, typically a vac system relied on 0.5 to 1.0 psi head of pressureto the carb, any more than that and you risk flooding as the float struggles to hold against the excess in pressure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 No ,you need a vacuum tank,it r ran for years that way. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 My fuel pressure regulator adjusts in 0.5psi increments but you could place a fuel pressure gauge after the regulator to see where its at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Coon Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 when I had an electric pump, I used a regulator adjusted to 1 psi. and it worked fine. I am happier now that the Vaccum tank is working and reinstalled Good luck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I ran my 1927 Chevy and my 1914 Buick B-37 on low volume 6-Volt electric fuel pumps for 34 years with absolutely no problems. I always carried a spare, but only oncedid I need to use it, and that was shortly after buying the Chevy in 1979. The failed pump had been on the car for what was apparently a very long time prior to my ownership so I should not have been surprised. The needle and seat was never overcome by the electric pump, but an older pressure regulator, which proved not to be necessary, did fail shortly after that initial older pump, and was not replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Unless I screwed up my arithmetic a 1/8 hole in the inlet seat calculates to 0.0490875 psi at 4 pound supply pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 If the fuel pump is located in the back of the car, take into consideration the drop in pressure before it reaches the carburetor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 13 hours ago, old car fan said: No ,you need a vacuum tank,it r ran for years that way. I appreciate your comment and I am in total agreement it needs a vacuum tank and eventually it will have a functioning one. It would have been disappointing if there was not at least one comment from the forum membership to that point. Right now I have spent more time on trying to get this tank operational than I did on a valve job. Every recommendation from this forum has been tried all to no avail. I have had the car for almost a year and just want to take it for a ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 8 hours ago, cahartley said: Unless I screwed up my arithmetic a 1/8 hole in the inlet seat calculates to 0.0490875 psi at 4 pound supply pressure. Interesting! Should have figured there was a formula for that. Is it supply PSI divided by hole diameter? Does it change based on supply line distance and size from pressure source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 What is a good quality 1-4 lb. low pressure regulator? I have three rebuilt Stewart Warner pumps that I cannot get to pump fuel. So I installed a 4 lb max Airtex pulse pump. This is too much pressure for the Schebeler carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB26 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) I have the same vehicle as you. The previous owner installed one on my engine. It seems to do fine. 6 volt pump plus a regulator regulated down to 1 PSI. Here is a video of it pumping while disconnected: My vacuum cannoster seems to work though. Wipers run with it connected. The bottom looks to be epoxied or badly welded. Some rust rattling around inside too. But I might clean her up and see what she can do. Edited March 5, 2018 by DB26 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefit Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Hi I have a 23 Buick 6volt no pressure regulator on it for 3yrs now never had any problems. Have one on my 18 D/B 12 volt no problems for over 10yrs. and no pressure regulator on it . As long as the float is set right and the needle and seat is good. M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emjay Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I don't think your arithmetic makes sense. 4psi times the area (0.012sq in) yields 0.05 lbs or 0.8 ozs. That is the force the float needs to exert onto a 1/8 valve to resists the incoming fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe in Canada Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I have a gauge under the hood showing 1 1/2 Lb. and if I go higher the carb will flood. This is on a 1930 353 Cid. V8 as not all carbs are that fussy as mine is. I do run the original Johnson carb that is a pile of crap. But over 2 Lb. on any engine I think would be risky. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 All of us can give a guess at the expected results. I would suggest trying without a regulator, and idling the engine in your driveway. With an electric pump, the worst case will be at idle. Personally, I think you will either need the regulator, or custom-fabricate a fuel valve seat with a smaller orifice. The Dodge Brothers used the Stewart/Detroit Lubricator (one of my favorite brands) carburetor. This really is an excellent carb. The original fuel valve orifice was 0.111 inch. With an electric pump and no regulator, I would feel much more comfortable with a 0.086 orifice. And yes, I just pulled that number out of thin air Actually, this was the size orifice Carter used for a 216 CID Chevrolet with pressure fuel pump. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) I use an electric fuel pump on my 4 cyl Hupmobile, and I do need the regulator. Otherwise, the carb will flood at idle (as carbking Jon suggests above). With this setup, I have driven the car all over the state of Ohio, for decades. (By the way, Jon KNOWS vintage carburetors.) Edited March 5, 2018 by lump (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 So back to my question in post 13, I know I need a regulator what kind to buy ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB26 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 (edited) This is the one in my 1926 6 volt Four Cylinder Dodge Brothers. It does a good job, The pump is an airtex. The regulator is a Mr. Gasket. Edited March 5, 2018 by DB26 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I use this one; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPECO-ADJUSTABLE-CHROME-MECHANICAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-1-6-PSI-512-00/131267189543?epid=611561395&hash=item1e90225b27:g:hecAAOSwbqpT6Nna Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Not to tick anyone off,but I think this talk is foolish,We have over a few cars,most are vacuum tanks.We restore and rebuild as a hobby,for the simple reason it does not need to go electric.Our 20 stud has been running,without problems for 15 years,on a stewart,we took the electric pump first thing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 In my case, I have a 31 Auburn with a rebuilt engine . The car is almost all together and ready to go to the interior guy, but hasn't run yet. I have three correct Stewart Warner fuel pumps two professionally rebuilt and one I rebuilt. None of them will pump fuel. With the FP out, cranking the engine I can feel the eccentric on the cam going around. One of the FP's is out of a 19,000 mile 32 Auburn so the arm is in great condition. I have to assume the eccentric on the cam has been compromised. An electric FP seems to me my only alternative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DB26 Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 1 hour ago, old car fan said: Not to tick anyone off,but I think this talk is foolish,We have over a few cars,most are vacuum tanks.We restore and rebuild as a hobby,for the simple reason it does not need to go electric.Our 20 stud has been running,without problems for 15 years,on a stewart,we took the electric pump first thing. Motivation. I like it 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 (edited) 18 hours ago, Curti said: I have three correct Stewart Warner fuel pumps two professionally rebuilt and one I rebuilt. None of them will pump fuel. I don't know the SW pumps, but the AC pumps have a top with a glass bowl under one end. Over-tightening the bowl stirrup will cause the top to warp, eventually. No amount of overhauling will fix it unless you straighten the top so it seals on the bowl. The test is to release the bowl and see if it rocks on the seat. If it does, straighten the top. Later replacement pumps manufactured after WWII had thicker flanges to fix this. Plus better quality casting metal. Edited March 6, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Yes, the SW pumps that I am working with are very similar to the AC type B pumps. They take the same diaphragm, valves and springs. I here ya on the fuel bowl. A light swipe with a mill file across the edges tells a story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 3 hours ago, Curti said: A light swipe with a mill file across the edges tells a story. I suppose you could do this on an AC type B, but the edges at the glass bowl mount form a sort of locating pocket for the bowl. I just put it on something flat. I have posted elsewhere how I straighten them gradually with copious boiling water. I just put them on a small piece of flat plate and if they don't sit on it all around, they get straightened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 The boiling water is a good idea ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 24 minutes ago, Curti said: The boiling water is a good idea ! Yes, only tighten the clamps when it is HOT, a little at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Vacuum... Vacuum.... Vacuum!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 my 1929 Doge has a electric gas pump did it come with vacuum...vac.. vac. ??? and runs good with no regulator . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Kyle,in late 1928,dodge switched to the Kingston tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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