MikeC5

The link here is from a current thread on re-wooding the body on an Australian DB touring car. I think it gives a pretty detailed explanation of what is involved in replacing the wood. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/316739-19271928-tourer-body/ I guess it all depends on your skills at woodworking. The contouring of hard wood, sometimes in 3 dimensions, is far beyond my skill level (and patience) although I do enjoy some (simpler) woodworking. Hopefully it doesn't need all of the wood replaced.

I wonder how much tweaking had to be done to make these with the production tooling? I can't imagine special tools were made for making 1 copy. I would assume the stamping dies are designed to over bend things a little to account for spring back and for the strength of mild steel. Stainless is typically harder to bend and drill holes in, etc. I'm no expert on these things. I'll bet someone here has sheet metal press experience.

Reminds me of scene from a movie... "how tell you tell he's a king?... He hasn't got %&$*# all over him.."

I think gasoline will still be widely available in 20 years but maybe significantly more expensive or perhaps a much greater fraction of methanol. Even at that, will it make economic sense to convert the majority of antique/classic cars? I suspect not unless it becomes much less expensive to do so. Also, if the demand for these cars drops as the baby boomers fade away, it will make it even more difficult to justify such a conversion.

Check your points gap. Rubbing block wear can close up the point gap and result in bad backfiring.

Do they use a tapered stud like modern ball joints? I would think over tightening this design would strip the threads or break the stud off. It's not obvious to me how you could pinch the ball and impede rotation at the joint. Smells fishy... Maybe this will help? https://forums.aaca.org/topic/6180-replacing-upper-ball-joints-64-lesabre/

"It's not very cherry; it's an oldie but a goodie"....

Mumbai was very much like that when I visited in 2015.... It was an eye opener the first time I experienced it....

Thanks very much Franklin.

Hi Franklin, I'm located in south east, CT. I appreciate you checking. Here is a sketch of the glass. It's hard to get an accurate measure on the bevel angle but it tapers down to around 0.075" at the edge.

I did find a few places on-line that offered beveled edge options but those sites were geared towards table tops with min dimensions much larger than I need. The other thing is thickness; the full thickness of the one I broke was 5/32", which is not a common thickness. I'm sure it boils down to that it could be done but will be quite expensive. If I go with 3/16, no bevel, regular glass, I have a local quote for $66 including the radiused corners. But I will check the antique furniture idea. Thanks Franklin.

I dug through my DB photos and found this of possible interest. I think this was an example David Coco sent me of a 1918 DB he was doing the top on. Note that the top rest looks similar to the parts list diagram and the ones on the '25 show car I posted earlier.

Yes, I wish someone with a documented original with top rests would help out with this. Also, I hate to tell you all this but I recognize that car in the photos just posted. It is being offered for sale by the same guy I bought my car from. I took some close up photos of the top irons because mine had no top hardware at all. Here's a close of shot how the top rests were fabricated.

Thanks for the tips Mr. Tech !

I have a pair of fenders that came off my '25 DB (I found better ones). I'd be willing to let these go for $100. Pick up only in south eastern, CT.