MikeC5

Thanks guys. I did some googling and found that Walker has a muffler worksheet that can help narrow down a muffler based on desired dimensions, number of inlets/outlets, etc. I've got a 6" diameter, 25" long muffler body coming with 2" inlet and outlet (ID) coming. It's not stainless as I want to be sure I like it before committing much money (it's only $40). I'll either have to cobble and adapter or have a new tail pipe made but that's not a big deal. That's Diesel in the back seat. He may look mean but he's a big chicken when it comes to loud noises By the way, the muffler on th

Thanks guys. I gotta get under there and see what I have.

All very interesting history. Thanks Dave.

Thanks guys. I'm sure it's quite a bit shorter than 25" and I know you can see through it from end to end. I'm pretty sure everything is buttoned up tight but will check when I wake it up after hibernation soon. I haven't put many miles on it since getting it on the road a few years ago so I don't think corrosion is an issue (and it seemed loud when I first started and and began driving it). I figured that's just how they were 'in the day'. I used to have an MGB and had tried running a straight thru glass pack-type of muffler and found it to be too loud for every day driving.

I currently have an original (repro) muffler on the car and it is a bit loud. It scares my dog who won't get in the car because of the noise. Has anyone tried a similar sized muffler that does more muffling? If so, what brand/part number did you use?

Deep fryer.... 😝 groan.....

I'll bet they only listen to Thelonius Monk...

I used to take my MGB to Weber for on-the-car wheel balancing (wire wheels) back in the 80s/90s. They were the only ones who could balance them properly so no shake at speed.

That's a great photo!

Looks like a Darwin Award candidate.

I thought the whole point of a ballast resistor was to reduce the voltage across the points when running (not starting) so as to maximize point life. Assuming the coil can take the current, the car will run fine with no ballast resistor but point life from arcing (and subsequent pitting) will be shortened (significantly, from what I've read). I would have thought the Petronix-type of electronic ignition would allow you to run the full voltage since there are no points to worry about and higher primary voltage gives higher secondary voltage (to plugs). I always thought that was a good thing.

Oil level can be checked by looking on the left side (sitting in car, facing forward) of the block towards the front. There is a float in the oil pan attached to an 1/8" diameter rod that comes up through a hole in the block. There are two markers cast into the block and the tip of the rod should be between those markers. 5 - 5.5 quarts does it for mine (a '25). These cars use a combined starter/generator (left side of block). There should be a fuse on the top front of it that is (if memory serves) 10 amp. It might be a good idea to check that the starter/gen chain isn't too loose befor

Unless you're really stuck on the Victrola brand, you might look into the Edison cylinder phonographs. They had many compact models that could fit in a smaller trunk. https://www.antiquephono.org/spotters-guide-edison-standard-phonograph/

Good story Str8! I hope you guys weren't accused of being on a boondoggle....

Consider the non-multi viscosity lubricants they had back then also...