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Everything posted by MikeC5

  1. That is a great idea! I have an impact screwdriver but this thing allows some finesse in getting tough ones out.
  2. Some info in this thread with battery box dimensions on my '25, if it helps. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/251012-60-yr-barn-find-help-needed/page/2/
  3. That battery does look old! If someone was so inclined, I would think you could figure out a way to neatly cut the top off so the remaining lead/stuff could be removed and then put a smaller modern battery in there with appropriate connections to the original terminals. I think Myers has repro battery box lids available.
  4. An interesting collection there...
  5. I used the lining mentioned in this thread and have been happy with it. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/201925-doing-brake-linings-on-a-25/#comment-1026998
  6. That was a good set of videos. He really slows things down so you can understand each step. I wish I had seen that before I got the final top piece sewn together...
  7. That's great! I have a coil like that sitting in the open hole where the original coil lived. It has been working fine. I wish the repro coils weren't so expensive.
  8. RIP Graham. I enjoyed your informative posts.
  9. I use the old German specification: guttentite.
  10. I would go back to basics and double check things like the static timing, points adjustment and wiring connections. Even if the generator won't charge, the car should be able to run on a fully charged battery for quite a while (without headlights on). If everything seems to be in order, I would then start taking a closer look at the carb. Also, what do the plugs look like?
  11. How about this one? Seems like a great deal to me.. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/340842-52-stude-commander-starlight-cp-lowered-price/
  12. My Starter/Generator had bad field windings and behaved similar to yours. When the SG is working properly, it should show maximum charge at idle and decrease as rpm goes up. Here is a wiring diagram that shows how it should be hooked up. I would assume for a '26, it would be the 8100-A switch.
  13. I thought you said it had a coil and relay contacts. Did they leave the relay in place and install a small diode? It any case, if the contacts are really bad, it shouldn't be too hard to source another starter switch. Myers Early Dodge would probably have one http://www.myersearlydodge.com/catalog.htm
  14. If you suspect the coil isn't working or not working properly, there is the option of dispensing with the coil/relay all together by using a diode instead. There are some threads on the forum that talk about it. I did it on my '25 and it was pretty easy and not very expensive.
  15. Hi Hugh, Very interesting how this was done on the Buick. I think it's a bit more elegant than the flap that hangs down over the top of the windshield frame. As long as the bends are 2 dimensional, it shouldn't be too difficult. Are you going to find a shop with a roller and brake to make or make up something in wood to form it?
  16. You'll need to remove the starter foot switch box from the floorboard. This involves disconnecting the wires on the back side of it and removing the two bolts that hold it to the floorboard. Once removed, you can takes the screws out that hold the switch together, open the switch box to reveal the cut out relay. Do you have the Mechanics Book of Information for the car?
  17. Pulling the choke out a bit to richen it may indicate a vacuum leak causing it to run too lean. Have you ever had the carb apart to verify the dashpot is able to move up and down? My distributor rotor has a similar amount of backlash that I suspect is normal.
  18. Hi Hugh, That's a good diagram of the set up and is essentially what I've got with the exception of the inner curtain going to the forward side of rear bow and the canvas wraps around to cover the wood window frame with the frame I have. I first attached the support straps to the wood frame, rough cut the canvas rear curtain and then marked the window location (making sure I had extra material to allow centering it when attaching the rear curtain assembly to car). I then cut the window opening, attached canvas rear curtain to window frame (a little contact cement and then staples on the inner rabbet where window is inserted). Next the glass went in and then the inner (bowdrill) curtain attached and inner window trim. It was quite tricky to get this whole rear curtain assembly onto the car. I found getting the inner curtain correctly adjusted to minimize wrinkles while at the same time, getting the support straps correctly positioned and the canvas in position to be nigh well impossible, thus my decision to attach the inner curtain on the forward side of the rear bow (since it could then wait until the canvas and support straps were in position and stapled).
  19. I'll have to search that out. Thanks!
  20. Hi Hubert, Thank you for the interest. It may be different on a '22 Dodge than what I found with the '25 as far as the upper rear seat back. Although I am not 100% certain, it appears to me that the seat back was designed to be upholstered and then installed (I think my seats still had the original leather/horsehair too). Like the upper front seat back I had attached photos of earlier, there is a tack strip on back side of the spring assembly so the leather can go up and over and tacked on the back side (you can kind of see this in last attached pic). As it also shows for the front seat back, the rear seat back has hooks that engage the tub inner edge to hold it in place (and bolts hold the lower portion to captured nuts in the tub, see attached). The rear side pieces work the same way. Unfortunately, curved wood segment that bolts to the top of the rear tub was missing and so this piece of evidence was not there and I saw no evidence of wood down on the floor pan as in your photo. I would welcome hearing from anyone who can confirm how their '25 was put together. The rear side pieces work the same way as described for seat back. It would seem that being able to upholster the seats separately from the body assembly would be advantageous from a production viewpoint but that's just a guess. You are correct about the rear inner curtain. I did initially try to attach it to the rear side of rear bow but it was impossible to get it stretched out wrinkle free because it can't be moved independent of the outer curtain (you have to drive tacks through both). I finally gave up and did it as shown. It would be nice to learn how a pro would do it... As for the bottom of the inner curtain, I copied what I observed on a '25 I saw at Hershey one year (attached earlier in this thread). Actually, if this was correct, it would jive with the seat back being upholstered separately. I need to get some good photos of the rear seat back....
  21. Don't tell us you parted it out... That is quite something!
  22. I would tighten until the nut slot lined up. A rod bolt is not a good place for an insufficiently tightened nut. Torque readings can be highly variable due to differences in friction between the nut and cap. I suspect sanding/filing or grinding the nut would only make this condition worse. I've seen on some (newer) engines the final bolt tightening is specified by angle of turn rather than torque. I suspect it gives more consistent tension in the bolt.