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MikeC5

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Everything posted by MikeC5

  1. If the switch is similar to the one on my '25 (Clum), you may be able to take it apart and try to fix it. It has bendable tabs that allowed me to disassemble. Worth a try. Otherwise try Myers Early Dodge or Romar and see if they can source a good used one.
  2. The link here is from a current thread on re-wooding the body on an Australian DB touring car. I think it gives a pretty detailed explanation of what is involved in replacing the wood. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/316739-19271928-tourer-body/ I guess it all depends on your skills at woodworking. The contouring of hard wood, sometimes in 3 dimensions, is far beyond my skill level (and patience) although I do enjoy some (simpler) woodworking. Hopefully it doesn't need all of the wood replaced.
  3. I wonder how much tweaking had to be done to make these with the production tooling? I can't imagine special tools were made for making 1 copy. I would assume the stamping dies are designed to over bend things a little to account for spring back and for the strength of mild steel. Stainless is typically harder to bend and drill holes in, etc. I'm no expert on these things. I'll bet someone here has sheet metal press experience.
  4. Reminds me of scene from a movie... "how tell you tell he's a king?... He hasn't got %&$*# all over him.."
  5. I think gasoline will still be widely available in 20 years but maybe significantly more expensive or perhaps a much greater fraction of methanol. Even at that, will it make economic sense to convert the majority of antique/classic cars? I suspect not unless it becomes much less expensive to do so. Also, if the demand for these cars drops as the baby boomers fade away, it will make it even more difficult to justify such a conversion.
  6. Check your points gap. Rubbing block wear can close up the point gap and result in bad backfiring.
  7. Do they use a tapered stud like modern ball joints? I would think over tightening this design would strip the threads or break the stud off. It's not obvious to me how you could pinch the ball and impede rotation at the joint. Smells fishy... Maybe this will help? https://forums.aaca.org/topic/6180-replacing-upper-ball-joints-64-lesabre/
  8. Mumbai was very much like that when I visited in 2015.... It was an eye opener the first time I experienced it....
  9. Thanks very much Franklin.
  10. Hi Franklin, I'm located in south east, CT. I appreciate you checking. Here is a sketch of the glass. It's hard to get an accurate measure on the bevel angle but it tapers down to around 0.075" at the edge.
  11. I did find a few places on-line that offered beveled edge options but those sites were geared towards table tops with min dimensions much larger than I need. The other thing is thickness; the full thickness of the one I broke was 5/32", which is not a common thickness. I'm sure it boils down to that it could be done but will be quite expensive. If I go with 3/16, no bevel, regular glass, I have a local quote for $66 including the radiused corners. But I will check the antique furniture idea. Thanks Franklin.
  12. I dug through my DB photos and found this of possible interest. I think this was an example David Coco sent me of a 1918 DB he was doing the top on. Note that the top rest looks similar to the parts list diagram and the ones on the '25 show car I posted earlier.
  13. Yes, I wish someone with a documented original with top rests would help out with this. Also, I hate to tell you all this but I recognize that car in the photos just posted. It is being offered for sale by the same guy I bought my car from. I took some close up photos of the top irons because mine had no top hardware at all. Here's a close of shot how the top rests were fabricated.
  14. Thanks for the tips Mr. Tech !
  15. I have a pair of fenders that came off my '25 DB (I found better ones). I'd be willing to let these go for $100. Pick up only in south eastern, CT.
  16. It's a 5 lug pattern but I'm not sure about the bolt circle dimension. I don't see it spelled out in the DB Mechanics Instruction Manual. I can try and get a measurement on my car which has these wheels.
  17. I'm sure it could be done as you describe but I doubt the material/color/finish will be anything close to the adjacent original piece. No doubt a used piece would be rare but I wouldn't classify it a unobtanium. I suspect you might have to buy the whole fender that it's attached to.
  18. For what it's worth, I took a look at the Master Parts List, 9th edition, that I was able to download from somewhere... It shows part number 1420 and 1421 for touring top rests (left & right) and a photo/drawing of such labeled as 1420/1421. Note the position of where the clamp is that holds the rest to the rod coming from the car body. It seems to be in the same position, relative to the top bow, as my photos of the ,25 touring. The parts list is rather confusing though. My car is serial number A323XXX and I wasn't sure which column number applied....
  19. If it were real cheap (say a few hundred $$) and you can do the work yourself and want a long-term project and are in love with the car and.....
  20. You're probably right Pete; assuming those are the correct saddles seems like a stretch. Maybe the AACA library can help with the search on what part number and a photo or drawing. I'll try contacting them and see.
  21. I have to side with the '55 as being a much cleaner design. It doesn't need a lot of chrome to look good.
  22. At least pull the plugs out and crank it to prime the oil system.
  23. As I always say, no brakes never stopped me! It might be a good idea to change the oil before stating it too. That will be a fun car for sure.
  24. Hi Pete, I came across this photo I had taken at Hershey a few years back. It's from a '25 Dodge that had won a AACA National 1st several years ago, so I'm pretty sure it is correct. Note how low the top folds relative to the belt line. It would have been interesting to see what it looked like folded down. I'm guessing the rear window and curtain must rest on top of the spare and get pushed up to some degree.
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