• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

276 Excellent


About maok

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    - Down Under the car .

Recent Profile Visitors

2,349 profile views
  1. Hey mate, do you have pic of the clutch plate? Where is the crack located on the plate? Surely a good clutch shop should be able to add (rivet) a more modern clutch ring around the centre hub.
  2. My '28 series 62 has four flex lines, one at each corner. The rear does not split on the diff. Also, one line from the MC goes to the left side and splits to front and rear left, and the other to the right side, again splitting front and rear. My car is RHD and has a different MC and location to the LHD cars, interestingly the MC has two output ports but it is still a single circuit.
  3. Thanks Viv, I have been considering it for awhile, though, for it to be period accurate it would need to be all black, which is too boring for me, and plus, there is an alternator, the generator is gone, no vacuum pump, and other things that are not period. It's almost a hotrod...:( I am planning on selling this year, so this will just give it some colour. Some progress today, The head is too orange, next week I will change to a more fire engine red. My bottom still needs to be done. The block colour is New Ford Grey by dupli-color. The accessories like the water pump, starter, water jacket&valve covers, fan, etc will the gloss black, like the modified oil filler tube you see.
  4. I've decided to go for this combination, Thanks to @Sasha39 for posting it on another thread. Its not original to the engine but I do like it.
  5. Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would just ask the question here. Does any know what colour the engine should be for my '28 series 62? The paint I used previously has not stuck to the block at all so this time I want to do it right, starting with the colour. Should it be the colour I used previously, blue/green? I have pulled the engine out, removed the old enamel with paint stripper.
  6. Start with re-building your mechanical fuel pump, with a good working pump it should fill the fuel bowl fair quickly and start easily if all else is in good working order. Otherwise, any 6/12volt electric fuel pump mounted near the fuel tank activated by a momentary push button switch will do the job, you wont need a pressure regulator.
  7. Some pics of it before the listing ends. I do like the blue colour scheme. Did the 75 not have the change in generator to the lhs and the exhaust manifold exiting from the front?
  8. Not mine, never knew this style was available in the Chrysler range.
  9. Doh! So the '29 series 65 has the sender unit on the rhs of the tank not the middle like a series 62.
  10. Congratulations mate, what a beauty. No suicide doors and no electric fuel level sender??
  11. In '28 if one could afford a series 72 then one could afford a mechanic to worry about minors
  12. Check the voltage of your battery after the drive when the engine is hot, it's possible your not getting enough charge from the generator/regulator. When the battery rests it recovers some what and hence spins the starter well.
  13. Are hood (bonnet) sides not 77?
  14. Just a note, when a 6v starter is powered by a 12v battery, the current draw is about the same (actually, its sightly more) compared to a 6v battery in the same engine. The current draw is purely dependent on the mechanical resistance not voltage applied.