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About maok

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  1. If the brake system is working as it should, it shouldn't need it, but did you loosen the brake bands from the drum?
  2. Just to add to Matt's detailed description, its the back EMF 'voltage' from the secondary side of the coil that condensor is used to protect the points.
  3. But p15-d24 forum uses the same software that 'still' has the post numbers.
  4. This one here is being valued by the members between $20k-$25k, but this a series 77 1930 model. So maybe $10k?
  5. That chart is not for the engine number, rather the FEDCO number on the plate on the dashboard inside the car. Similar to the one '28 Chrysler' posted above. Edit: the 'P' prefix in the engine number I believe represents a series 65.
  6. Count the number of spark plugs, if more than 4 then it cannot be a series 52.
  7. Its definitely not a '28. Others will know, the '29 models started productions in mid '28 there is always confusion with this. Lovely car by the way. If a '29 then, it could be, Series 65, series 75, series 80/Imperial. All 6 cylinder models, no 4 cylinder was offer unless one purchased a plymouth or dodge.
  8. Sorry, I really couldn't tell you if the 'business coupe' was limited to any particular model/series. Others will probably chime in and have a definitive response.
  9. The '28 models, Series 52 4 cylinder, search google for engine capacity Series 62 6 cylinder, 180ci Series 72 6 cylinder, search google for engine capacity Series 80/Imperial 6 cylinder search google for engine capacity I would imagine they were available in the various body shapes.
  10. I'm a cyclist, please don't knock me over when you go past me on the road with those
  11. 1. There is no robe type of seal around the crankshaft after the rear main cap. But there are two felt seals that go into the rear main cap where the slots are, as per your pic above. These felt seals were not supplied with my gasket kit, I used cork instead. If you go to my engine build thread you will see what I did. 2. I believe these are for the water pump. 3. I have no idea what this round cork is for, my gasket kit had it as well.
  12. No doubt, keiser is much better organiser than I. That is the one I was referring to.
  13. If you do a search for bb1 on this site you will find a comprehensive how to guide on rebuilding this carb. I have it on my pc somewhere but cant find I also have the Daytona style of needle and seat (fuel valve), has worked well for me for years.
  14. Hi Alain, well done in getting your engine build to this point. I completed an engine build recently on a '28 series 62 which is very similar to your series E65 engine. See here - Regarding your questions, 1. I don't know if there should be a seal there. Both my engines that I tore down did not have any signs of s seal. 2. No seal between the crankshaft pulley and the crankcase, but there is a cup that covers the crankcase (i call it the timing case) hole. 3. The 'steering wheel' as you call it, is the harmonic balancer. 4. Valve stem to tappet clearance for my engine should be 0.008" of an inch cold then adjusted to 0.004" for intake and 0.006" for exhaust when the engine is hot. I adjusted mine when cold to '0.006" intake and 0.007" exhaust.