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About maok

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  1. I suspect it maybe the nose cone (drive pinion/bendix cover) variations for different engines. My '28 Chrysler also uses a 714 (D). It maybe possible to just interchange the nose cone from another 714* starter with other models. I have NOT had two different models to compare to be confident of my above comments though.
  2. WoW 125psi! I only have 85psi, up from 70, may need to take off another. 0.030" from the head.
  3. Yes,its amazing what a boost in compression can do for torque. I only use 2nd &3rd gears now. My fuel economy has dramatically improved.
  4. I hope the OP doesn't mind. I used the 1168LS-P12 which is a 6 cylinder, Lobe Sensing, Positive ground 12v . The lobe sensing models don't need the magnetic ring around the shaft lobe/cam of the distributor, so less to worry about regards to fitment. Unfortunately the module on its original base plate was too high and was making contact with rotor arm when install like above pic, so I removed it off the its base plate and mount the module directly on my contact plate. Make sure its mounted square and about 1-2mm away from the lobes. Follow the wiring instructions that comes with the kit. It is different to the points wiring, not much though. You may need to adjust the distributor a fair bit to get the timing correct.
  5. I could be wrong, but I don't think they are left or right hand drive specific.
  6. They dont have one for a 1928 chrysler either but I did a hack of another model to adapt into my Chrysler distributor, Delco 631b. So can be done for your '27. I can post some pics if you want.
  7. If originality is not too much of a concern, I can see a Pertronix module fitting in there easily.
  8. You are leaving out the number times he tried and failed before he succeeded .
  9. Its not the end of the world, how hard is it to alter to your car to run with E10/E15. Fuel lines, fuel pump, and some carb mods.
  10. My series 62 uses a 7/8" thread plug, which I'm sure would be the same in series 65. I have the Champion w16y plugs in mine. There aren't many options unless one installs a thread reducer to a common thread size like 14mm plug.
  11. IMO, the SU's would work really well with the 230, but it's unlikely that it could be considered a period correct MOD for your '38 Plymouth. It may have been tried in England in the past.
  12. It could be worse, it could be parked in someone else's garage and you never get to see it.
  13. If you have taken the starter out of the engine, take a pic of it and post here. The pinion gear (on the bendix) will turn in the opposite direction relatively to the armature initially to get to the end of the armature so it can get engaged with the ring gear on the flywheel. Once at the end of the armature, it locks and turns with the armature. Your starter is turning it the correct direction, regardless of the polarity of the wiring to it. As been mentioned, its most likely getting stuck in the ring gear.
  14. Buy the car to look at it, like an art piece. It's worth every cent, it will appreciate.
  15. Don't over think it, +ve side of coil to the points where it gets grounded. Ground is +ve.