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  1. And what about the fuel supply from the tank ?
  2. So what about fuel supply from the tank ? Have you done anything to check for blockage between the tank and pump ? Also I'm curious as to how you're verifying 8lb output and 2lb of vacuum, normally these pumps would only be putting out around 3 - 4psi, 8psi is well beyond the float needle capability.
  3. 1934 Chrysler CB Town Sedan, internal trunk accessed by folding down rear seat cushion.
  4. Did you read the link in Carbkings response? that pretty much explains it in a nutshell, that's the item re fuel leak from throttle shaft, commonly known as heat soak. Also more often than not it leads to the other condition of hard starting when hot.
  5. The fact that it starts after shutdown is more likely to be associated with heat soak than float level as the other guys have mentioned.
  6. Sounds high up to me, possibly piston/gudgen pin ? If the noise decreases when you pull a plug wire that's indicative of lightening the load on a particular piston and subsequent noise reduction, also it might account for the now you hear it, now you dont symptom due to the piston/pin moving around. Certainly doesn't sound like bearings or crank issues, perhaps you could start investigating by dropping the oil, put a stocking or something over the catch pan and see if there are any metal bits floating around.
  7. Steady 18" Vac at idle is good, below 15" means wear and tear making an impact. Compression around the 80 - 100psi is desirable but anything above 60 means there's life left in it, so long as all readings are within 10 - 15% of each other.
  8. There's only one fuse in this era mounted, on the ammeter as you've found. At some point a fusible cutout was introduced on the lighting switch, it's function was to break the circuitry if a short occurred and then reset. Might be a good place to start.
  9. Same as most every other engine, around the 180 mark is good.
  10. Yes and yes; doable but difficult with the manifold (s) in the way. You may well find better access by taking the wheel off on the manifold side and seeing if there's a removable inner guard panel, many vehicles of this period were fitted like this for that reason. Obviously safe jacking and supporting the car is paramount!!
  11. If it's a fluid switch cnrack a brake line/nipple, if the light goes out you've got pressure trapped in the system.
  12. This style of joint is completely different to what we now know as a U joint, so short answer is no. However I have seen later era (50s) Mopar tailshaft conversions adapted without too much work.
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