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About hchris

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  1. Same as most every other engine, around the 180 mark is good.
  2. Yes and yes; doable but difficult with the manifold (s) in the way. You may well find better access by taking the wheel off on the manifold side and seeing if there's a removable inner guard panel, many vehicles of this period were fitted like this for that reason. Obviously safe jacking and supporting the car is paramount!!
  3. If it's a fluid switch cnrack a brake line/nipple, if the light goes out you've got pressure trapped in the system.
  4. This style of joint is completely different to what we now know as a U joint, so short answer is no. However I have seen later era (50s) Mopar tailshaft conversions adapted without too much work.
  5. I'm a little confused, you say backfire out the exhaust? technically a backfire is through the carbs; afterfire is through the exhaust. Afterfire is pretty rare and is more likely to be a timing issue, wouldn't entirely discount carbs but more inclined to look at timing particularly when you mention cam,coil and distributor; assuming these have been newly installed ?
  6. Looking at your photo I'm sort of amazed that whoever did the conversion didn't aim to get the threaded portion of the plugs to sit at the same depth of the originals, I'm guessing that the 45s is at least 1/8" or more longer than the 10mm plug; wondering how far above the piston the electrode sits ? As to the plugs themselves, the 45s is going to run much colder having almost twice the ceramic insulation of the original, but I'm assuming, it's been running ok with them for some time, would be interesting if you could find some plugs of similar size to the originals in 14 mm (i.e. electrode depth and insulation) and see if they made a difference in performance. Re plug location, as Dusty explained their positioning in the combustion area is critical for design performance, engine designers go to a lot of trouble in positioning valves, plugs etc to achieve the best performances. Although it's probably not worth it now, a better solution to going upsize with the plugs would have been a screw in adaptor to accommodate the 10 mm plugs in the 14 mm hole.
  7. What Brian said; beyond that I'm a great advocate of tuning with a vacuum guage. If you can find a port in the manifold to hook up a vacuum guage it's so much easier to get timing/mixture etc. sorted, bearing in mind fuel properties have changed so much since these cars were built.
  8. Correct - having said that, with fuel injection and engine management systems plus the ability to lean out the mixture in cruise they`re not too bad.
  9. And the thing about (light) aircraft engines in the main, is that max rpm is generally around 2700 - 2800 and for cruise 2300 - 2500. Typical Cessna/Piper run 160 - 180hp, so overall they are pretty low stressed engines, the design emphasis is really on big bore, big torque and low revs, not forgetting that a boxer configuration makes it easier to cowl and streamline. Different story when you get into turbocharged and higher output engines, using 98/100 octane low lead.
  10. Correct, distributor vac is drawn above the throttle.
  11. If you have an accessible vac port hookup a vac guage and see how it's behaving, great diagnostic tool.
  12. hchris

    starter trouble

    Have you tried another battery or used jumper leads to another battery ?
  13. Plenty of home made cheap and effetive centralising tools out there, do a search.
  14. Have you centralised the shoes ? Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth brakes require that you get the shoes concentric in the drum before anything else, it's complicated if you don't have the right tool, plenty written up about it.