hchris

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About hchris

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  1. Just a thought, hows the timing ? Wonder if a few degrees of advance might help. have you ever set timing with a vacuum guage ? Beyond that maybe just bump the idle speed up a bit.
  2. Sure looks like it to me, have a look at the next post (correct finish) a good color photo of a 25 model.
  3. Valves would be at the top of my list, check clearances first looking for a tight one possibly not fully closing. Beyond that, maybe find a quiet spot and slowly hand turn the engine listening for a leak during compression at intake and exhaust, obviously a helper would be good. Alternatively make a fitting from an old spark plug connect it to a compressor, bring each cylinder up to TDC one at a time and put some air into each cylinder, again listening for leaks at intake and exhaust.
  4. Interesting how 5 years between them makes a bigg difference in appearance.
  5. My 1925 Maxwell, restored some 20years ago, painted rims silver, stained and sealed spokes, beento plenty of displays, haven't noticed anyone cringing as yet.
  6. Having rebuilt and installed the Auto clutch on my CB Chrysler, my recommendation to you is leave yours on the shelf. Perhaps you can take it down every so often, dust it, admire it, maybe even show it to your buddies as a conversation starter at you next BBQ, then put it back on the shelf where it belongs. 😉
  7. Yes and no, what started out as a splash lubrication system eventually morphed into a pressure lubrication system as engine revs and compression units increased, the crankshaft loads required more pressure as engines developed.
  8. Note that this topic originated in 2005 so not sure how much interest there is now. Nevertheless just to clear any misconceptions on the topic, there are two seperate units being discussed here, freewheel device and automatic clutch. Back in the day the freewheel device was very common around the early to mid 30s in the Chry/Plym/Dodge range, not so the auto clutch, this was generally seen as an extra option and probably less desirable. The auto clutch, as previously stated, worked with a vacuum unit attached to the clutch pedal linkage, it had a control cable operated from a dash mounted handle/button to enable the driver to connect/disconnect the function as required. When selected it would move the clutch pedal under the influence of manifold vacuum and an acceleration/deceleration pendulum valve. Form start you needed to depress the clutch, engage a gear lift the clutch pedal and get underway, once in motion each time you lifted your foot off the gas pedal the sudden increase in vacuum and deceleration would pull the clutch pedal down and you could shift gears, putting your foot back on the gas and subsequent drop in vacuum plus acceleration would bring the clutch pedal back up; so the overall operantion meant that you could do most of your driving without having to use the clutch pedal, almost but not quite, an automatic. The down side to all of this was, as previously mentioned, if you were decelerating with the intention of slowing down, or going downhill, then the vacuum action would pull the clutch in and you would lose the influence of engine compression braking, for this reason most drivers would disconnnect the unit permanently; when in use it was commonly referred to as being in Angel gear. The freewheel device was something else, built into the gearbox it was simply an over run unit that caused the gears to freewheel under negative engine torque loads, going downhill or with a light throttle load on the level; the engine would drop back to idle and the gears rotated as if in neutral, once again however this could be dangerous with the loss of engine braking. There was a control knob to disengage the device, however it seems most people left it engaged unless going down any reasonable sort of hill, leaving it engaged in normal use was common as it did work quite well as a fuel saver.
  9. Yes, removing the thermostat in itself is not a fix but will be interesting to see if it makes a difference. Whilst you have it out put in a pot of water and heat up to see how far it opens. If you suspect a "fit" issue then that definitely needsto be sorted.
  10. The coolant passing through the lower hose presumably is showing that the radiator is doing it's job, in your case the question is then, how much coolant is passing through the radiator ? Is the thermostat not opening enough or creating some other form of restriction to limit the volume of coolant passing through the radiator, perhaps as someone has suggested, temporarily remove the thermostat completely and see what happens.
  11. Interesting that you say the lower hose was only "warm" . Usually this would indicate that the radiator is doing its job quite well, if the rad is doing its job you should typically see a temp drop of 20 - 25 degrees F between the upper and lower hoses, perhaps this is something you could check with one of those infra red guns ? Assuming this were the case, then maybe the thermostat isnt actually opening far enough to let full flow through the radiator at the extreme end of its scale ? Having said this, straight 8s are notorious for heating up at the back of the block, maybe invest in an infra red gun and work your way around the engine with it to see if there are any hot spots, particularly at the back of the block.
  12. Does the horn work if you run a jumper lead straight to it ?
  13. Sounds like you might be dealing with two issues at once. As to the temp guage, do you know if its an electric sender unit or bourdon tube sender ? electrical will have a wire coming off of the sender unit, bourdon tube will be a sealed unit with thin copper tube from a fitting in the block back to the guage. Electric units work with a change in resistance as the temp sender unit heats up, fairly easy to fault find if you have a multi meter and know the resistance value of the sender. Bourdon tube is another matter, essentially the copper tube between sender and guage is filled with ether or similar and sealed up, the temp changes the volume of enclosed fluid and raises pressure within the sealed tube, at the guage end this pressure moves the needle mechanism; same principle as an oil pressure guage. More often than not the tube is fractured, soldered fittings crack etc. and the fluid leaks out thus the pressure element is lost and guage ceases to function or, with partial loss, under reads. With the vapor lock issue there are hundreds of previous posts on the problem, do a search through the forum for various remedies.
  14. At the trans end, the cable fits into a square shaped receptacle which is the inside of a little pinion gear being driven by the output shaft of the gearbox. As the cable isnt spinning when you removed it from the back of the speedo, the problem lies in this area. Either you havent pushed the cable far enough into the pinion receptacle or the pinion itself is at fault, possibly damaged stripped or whatever. Normally there is a retaining plate which holds the pinion gear in the gearbox outer housing, so you should be able to remove it and investigate if needs be, but first try and push the cable well into the pinion before you go any further.
  15. Not Sunbeam Alpine, doesnt have the correct rear latches.