hchris

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About hchris

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  1. You will probably need a 12v power source to operate your timing light, assuming your Windsor is 6v.
  2. Is there a relay in the headlight circuit ? perhaps its quit. Assume you have a wiring circuit, pretty hard to troubleshoot without one.
  3. Bloo has given excellent insite, if I might elaborate a little more though. Consider a ring starts out as a solid piece of round metal, in simple terms if you turned off an end piece on a lathe you would have a solid slice of metal of a given diameter and thickness, if you then drilled /machined out the centre of this slice, you would finish up with a metal ring of given thickness and diameter, cut a slot in it and you now have a ring which you can carefully expand and slide over the piston top and fit into an appropriate width groove in the piston. So pistons and rings are made to measure for given size cylinders, obviously wear and tear makes the precision sized cylinder oversize in due course, so there are now various options to overcome the problem of lost compression and excessive oil consumption due to this wear, a lot will depend on the severity of wear as to repair choices. Oversize rings is one solution, usually coupled with remachining the cylinder bore and oversize pistons to suit. But just focusing on the rings, to answer your questions, consider a bigger diameter piece of round metal ( say 0.10 or 0.20 or 0.30 greater diameter) machining off a slice and going through the same process as before, you now have an oversize ring; generally they will be of the same thickness as before. So now you have an oversize ring and it can do the job of making up for cylinder wear, however it`s not that straightforward and Bloo has done a good job of explaining why.
  4. So there`s a big discrepancy between 1 and 4 despite the engine being cold, in fact other than 4 they all look sick, what do the other cylinders read ? To ascertain whether compression leaks are valve or piston ring related, squirt a little oil into the cylinder being checked then do the test, if the pressure is significantly higher after the oil treatment then its indicating faulty rings, if the pressure reading remains much the same then there is a valve leak. Given your opening comments about rings and heads being messed with, makes it rather difficult to give specific diagnosis; perhaps you need to start again ?? if it were my car, I would not be impressed with that much oil lying on top of the piston in photo 2. With the carb fault, I would assume you had a lot of residual fuel lying in the manifold which is going to smoke until it all clears thru combustion.The reason I asked about the electric pump, is I suspect, that`s the cause of flooding, it`s simply overwhelming the float needle, so if you continue to use it you may need a regulator, in the first instance however I would try running without using it.
  5. Looks to me like oil has run down an open valve whilst motor is staionary, good chance the valve guides are shot.
  6. Gotta say that's most intriguing.
  7. Well if it's flooding you are never going to get the mixtures right, so at this point I wouldn't assume that anything's blocked.
  8. hchris

    Chrysler?

    Down here it was simply known as a Valiant, our first ever Chrysler Valiant whats more.
  9. Good thinking, 1.5psi was the acknowledged standard for vac feed systems back in the day.
  10. Well it would appear that float needle isn't doing the job of stopping fuel flow when the carb bowl fills up. So what's causing pressure build up when the engine has stopped, a number of possibilities exist: do you have an electric fuel pump still running? Is there enough heat to cause fuel boiling? some carbs have an anti percolation system inbuilt to prevent residual heat causing too much carb bowl build up after shut down Is it possible that the fuel cap vent is blocked, causing excessive tank pressures after shutdown? Putting aside the other problems you have encountered it surely won't run right until you get this sorted.
  11. I'm curious you keep mentioning flex plate turns ok, do you have trans out ?
  12. I have an idea that 34 Plymouth were the same size, perhaps another avenue ?
  13. Reckon you will struggle with this, there are some people who spray metal inside the drum and remachine to get the lining surface back. As to replacements, I have never heard of anyone downunder, swap meets etc are probably your best shot. Have a look in Restored Cars for drum refubishers.
  14. What Keiser said, but just to elaborate a little - assuming you have the original engine, cooling tubes were introduced around 1934; you can tell by noting that the pre tube blocks have the upper cylinders exposed in the block casting on the starter motor side, after that the blocks were flat both sides.
  15. Need a big a*** puller, plenty of info here if you search rear brake drum removal.