Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

hchris's Achievements

2,500+ Points

2,500+ Points (4/7)

  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges



  1. hchris

    Gas gauge, 1930 CF

    Highly likely the sender unit has a dirty wiper arm or bad earth. But with your limited description, makes it hard to judge. Or maybe I missed something ?
  2. Slightly off topic, but Chrysler Australia made these as well.
  3. I'm with Bloo, first stop, fuel pump diaphragm.
  4. Ok, my first impression of the needle photo is that it's badly worn, there shouldn't be a wear mark on the taper and probably there will be a corresponding mark in the seat; bottom line is that the shutting off of fuel when the bowl fills is severely compromised. So first thing I would do is buy a new one. As to the proper fuel level, you need to find the correct setting (Google search) and bend the float arm to suit, hard to tell from the photo but doesn't look right from here. So once again, why dont you take off that filter and hook up a (clear) line and funnel and pour in some fuel to see what level the valve shuts off at, that way you can keep messing with it to get it right.
  5. If you have a sinking float, it gets water(fuel)logged and keeps sinking with the weight of fuel such that it can't ever rise far enough to shut the needle valve, and while the pump keeps pumping the carb just floods. Brass floats are soldered together in manufacture and are prone to cracking, which then allows fuel to seep inside thus weighting down the float. If for instance someone has been bending the float arm to readjust the float level, it's not unusual to create a stress crack which eventually gives way and the float takes on fuel and you finish up with a "sinker". So you need to take out the float and give it a good shake next to your ear, yo can usually hear if there's fuel in it, alternatively as suggested drop it in boiling water and watch for bubbles which will indicate if it has a hole. If the float turns out to be good then you have to determine why the bowl level is obviously too high, as I said inthe previous post, it would help if you make up a rig to fill the bowl from an external source with the bowl cover removed and see what's going on. I don't recommend using the fuel pump whilst turning the engine as it's too much of a fire risk, you would need to syphon out fuel that's in the bowl first up, and keep in mind that if your filling point is elevated you'll be able to simulate a degree of pressure on the float. Ideally you should be able to watch the float rise as you pour in fuel and at some point it should shut the needle valve, and your fuel flow will back up in your delivery line; its handy if its clear pvc so you can see the fuel flowing.
  6. You're right,fuel level is way too high, could be a sinker as suggested or needs adjustment. Strange that it's just popped up out of the blue. When I'm messing with float levels I've got a rig where I suspend a small funnel and hose about a metre (yard) above the carb and connected to the inlet pipe. With the top off the carb, as I pour fuel in the funnel, it's easy to see what the float/needle/seat are doing and adjust/fix as required. The height of the funnel gives me a head of pressure to simulate pump output.
  7. Smells flooded - I think I would take the top off the carb and see if 1. the float/needle and seat are ok, or 2. if there's any rubbish floating around in the float bowl. Letting the fuel level drop to the bottom of the tank has possibly allowed a whole bunch of rubbish to make its way into the fuel delivery system; good chance that it's contaminated everything from tank to carb.
  8. Sounds like the sender, little wire coil gets dirty and you get bad resistance. However, shouldn't have to drop the tank as sender unit is usually mounted externally, at worst you may have to drain the tank if the sender is mounted low down.
  9. Ok here's my pitch, doing a 34 Chrysler some years back I had a wiring diagram to follow and used an old hot rodders guide. Went to the local hardware store and bought a couple of reels of cheap plastic/nylon clothes hanging line; with the aid of wiring diagram ran and cut each wire in nylon, labelled them as I went then laid them out on the floor. Zip tied the lot together and ran the loom through the car snipping/ adding where required, once happy with the fit replicated the whole thing with proper cable and fittings and installed, also this gave me the flexibility to add/alter stuff as I went, such as turn indicators etc. So whilst doing the job twice it worked out pretty cheap, as I was able to sort my mistakes out before making up the real deal, and have to say enjoyed the project along the way
  10. Think you might be right with South Africa, never seen a plate like that down here. Another thought, what about NZ ?
  11. Yep, definitely need to turn the fan around. In reality once your moving, most of the cooling will be from road draught, the fan comes into play at slow speeds and when stationery. Pretty sure that octane ratings aren't in play here, as mentioned compression ratio is well below the threshold and whilst the cracked manifold definitely needs fixing i doubt it would be affecting the radiator temp. If the engine was rebuilt is it possible the timing is out ?
  12. Given that you don't have a water pump, cooling will always be marginal on a thermo syphon system. The fact that you've done the radiator would probably suggest that the block might need a good flush out, after all the cooling effectiveness is very much dependent on good circulation, do you know what condition the block is in ? A bit of online research will give you various product options for a flush out, you might want to be a bit creative with the flushing by disconnecting the radiator, be a shame to fill it up with crud. Also invest in one of the hand held infrared thermometers and move it over various parts of the engine looking for hot spots, the back of the block for instance. While your at it you can check the effectiveness of the radiator by noting the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet ports of the radiator, ideally there should be around 25 degrees drop between the two, if that's the case then the radiator is doing it's job.
  13. The fact that you've got spark at at the plugs would suggest a fuel problem, start spray or not I would be looking down the fuel path; assuming timing hasn't been messed with ? Is it possible to take off the air cleaner and tip a bit (I'm talking a couple of spoonfuls) of fresh fuel down the carb throat and see if it kicks ?
  14. hchris

    1930 cf speedometer

    Sounds like it's an internal speedo problem, if the cable turns whilst youre driving then it's the speedo.
  • Create New...