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About hchris

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  1. Yep, definitely need to turn the fan around. In reality once your moving, most of the cooling will be from road draught, the fan comes into play at slow speeds and when stationery. Pretty sure that octane ratings aren't in play here, as mentioned compression ratio is well below the threshold and whilst the cracked manifold definitely needs fixing i doubt it would be affecting the radiator temp. If the engine was rebuilt is it possible the timing is out ?
  2. Given that you don't have a water pump, cooling will always be marginal on a thermo syphon system. The fact that you've done the radiator would probably suggest that the block might need a good flush out, after all the cooling effectiveness is very much dependent on good circulation, do you know what condition the block is in ? A bit of online research will give you various product options for a flush out, you might want to be a bit creative with the flushing by disconnecting the radiator, be a shame to fill it up with crud. Also invest in one of the hand h
  3. The fact that you've got spark at at the plugs would suggest a fuel problem, start spray or not I would be looking down the fuel path; assuming timing hasn't been messed with ? Is it possible to take off the air cleaner and tip a bit (I'm talking a couple of spoonfuls) of fresh fuel down the carb throat and see if it kicks ?
  4. hchris

    1930 cf speedometer

    Sounds like it's an internal speedo problem, if the cable turns whilst youre driving then it's the speedo.
  5. Sadly a common fault with these engines, can't help with your problem but good chance you're going to have to weld.
  6. Just soak it in fuel before installing to make it more pliable, oil will just disolve when it contacts fuel.
  7. Or more precisely, just above the generator where the block and head meet.
  8. Doing a complete brake job on a 29U, everything seized up. Have a puller for the rear hub, but how does the front hub come off ? is it just a matter of removal of front bearings and taking the hub off ?
  9. FYI, think you'll find they suit 33 (CO) and 34 (CA & CB) Chrysler as well. Will watch with interest as I have 4 or 5 of them
  10. Yep, been around for quite a while as suggested substitute for contemporary oil filters
  11. Certainly sold in Australia, but cant see any definitive details on the brochure.
  12. Sorry can't help sourcing a replacement but perhaps a weld job, even if a temporary measure. This topic however serves as a warning to all, how many of us have used the fan blade(s) as a lever to turn the engine over ? Sooner or later stress cracks will develop, the added vibration and centrifugal forces aren't helpful either, maybe time we all had a close look.
  13. Could I suggest that you take all of the plugs out, disconnect the high tension lead, keep the throttle wide open, then carry out your compression test; this way you'll get a meaningful result. Typically a variation of about 10% between pressure readings is considered satisfactory. Based on your other info, pulling the engine would be way down my priority list, a miss at idle could well be ignition or fuel related and I would be working my way through them beforehand. If you find a significant drop in compression on a cylinder, perhaps move on to checking valve cleara
  14. Can't answer your question, but, asking another - is there a problem with the existing pump ?
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