Narve N

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

29 Excellent

About Narve N

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
  • Interests:
    1929 Chrysler Series 65 and 75

    1931 Chrysler

    1940 Chrysler NewYorker

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I concur that the blue/grey color looks correct for a 1931, while I think the 1929s should have a more greenish color (e.g. Ford Meadowgreen). I also think a good '31 match with a name to it has been stated previously?
  2. here is a picture of my previous Series 65. Again the after-picture was dizzy, so this one is the prior and shows the effects of a brake fluid leak. However, this car has all the steering box rods in place. The long one leaning left is for advance/retard (never used as long as the starter works well), the short vertical one which also can be seen in the other car is the hand throttle. As for type of paint, I am still using the 1L can of 1-pack car paint ("synthetic") I bought in 1982 which will work well unless the block decides to sweat oil and maybe trapped water. And the Australian bush-fires are on the Norwegian news. Rather strange to view as we in Norway are fighting icy roads or as it was today, 10 cm of sleet.
  3. Quote Sherwood Kahlenberg back in the 80s on Series 65 engines: "Use Ford c56 Meadowgreen color for block and main parts, silver for top and water channel covers, black for auxiliaries". This also fits well with some further S65s cars I have seen. I am a bit embarrassed that I could not find a nicer engine picture. As can be seen, my engine had some flaking after two years usage. It is corrected now, I also painted the generator flanges black during the update.
  4. My primary knowledge is from Series 65s, but the style of reinforcement with nails and rounded corners is exactly as it was done over the rear axle on all Series 65s. There is however no double layers at the front of the "lightweight" Series 65 though.
  5. Any link for where to find for a Canadian built car?
  6. I am hoping for half way up the scale on idle (= 30 lbs for my 1929 and 40 lbs for my 1940 with 323 cui), which they will do when cold. But as soon as the engine comes up to running temperature pressure drops to maybe 10 for the 1929 and 20 for the 1940, which is unnerving. I swapped the straight 40 oil for 20W-50 which did improve pressure but may be did not improve lubrication. Now I am entertaining all tips for better pressure, and intend to redo one oil pump this winter with close attention to clearances. Picture is celebrating my first 1000 km with the blue Series 65 Roadster and displays less than 20 lbs while underway (40 km/h = 1000 RPM?). Observers can note that the stupid gas gauge, although with a replica sending unit and a NOS instrument, denies to function as most of them do. I also need to clean up my cable toggles, decide what to do with the fascia finish, and get a ON/OFF plate for the ignition switch.
  7. Do you have more info on that conversion? I am struggling with disappointing oil pressure when hot engine on all my flathead Chryslers.
  8. This is truly exiting stuff and a welcome initiative to improve on the HP of 7-bearing 6-cylinder engines. I will need one if I go for an entry in Mille Miglia, where an old Chrysler is welcome and very well suited.
  9. This is an unrestored first year Chrysler displaying tool compartments in the drivers door, which probably is how it was for all 24/25. Unfortunately I showed this to my upholsterer who thought it was a good idea and made a similar arrangement for my 1929. His solution is rattling all over the place, the door is very heavy, and I have my proper tools in a tool box on the floor. Your choice, correct or practical.
  10. Excellent idea and I want to copy it on my 1940 NewYorker, any picture of a different installation than 48NWYKR made? Will this also ensure engine braking going downhill by shutting out the freewheeling?
  11. If you get a new toy is often difficult to stop playing with it. My Series 65 engine had its casting/parts number (40629-4) fairly visible in the accumulated 90 years of rust and dirt, but unlike my newer Series 65 engines there was no evidence of a casting date. That is until I applied acid and wirebrush scrubbing around the casting number. Now it has become an engine just made before Christmas 1928 and as a bonus the name Hercules appeared below the casting #. Anyone know more about this, was Hercules an outside engine block supplier? Car is Canadian by the way. I also applied acid to the engine number which now stands out almost as it was made yesterday.
  12. Chris, that tea-kettle on acid arrangement of yours, any experience of its effectiveness? I have an engine that needs such a treatment (or something alternate) to get rid of accumulated rust inside the waterways.
  13. That is a neat tool, I tried it with the FEDCO of my Canada made Series 65 and it worked superbly.
  14. Apologies, the main subject FECO badge is LS831E, the second one on a grey panel is LS831S. I did write up the numbers in an earlier version, but the AACA option of "insert a picture randomly into your text and delete everything when you try to correct it" made me do everything 3 times and in the final version the letters were forgotten.