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Narve N

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  1. Mopar parts numbers are chronologically numbered, that means you can roughly find years of application by identifying other parts with similar numbers. For 1561726, the closest I get by using Len Dawson's catalog is interior stuff for 56 Dodge Trucks that also has 1561 as the first four digits. All prewar stuff had much lower parts numbers.
  2. Differs (the starting pedal way of functioning) between early and late Series 75, what do you have?
  3. Are you selling the rebuilt auxiliaries separately?
  4. This Norwegian 1926 Imperial Roadster has both featured in a period French film, been converted to an Ute (50s maybe) and recently been converted back to a Roadster. I can try to get some contact information for the current owner who obviously has had to make many panels from scratch.
  5. Interesting to learn something new. My 1929 Series 65 has 14" drums, so going from 14 to 11 on its direct replacement (Series 66 as introduced in 1929) was an interesting development.
  6. I strongly believe that you are not looking for a 30/31 brake drum. The original ones were much taller than 11" which again sounds like a mid or late 30s, possibly even newer drum? Besides that, the wheel bolt patterns of c1930 era differed a lot between Plymouth vs DeSoto vs Dodge vs various Chryslers.
  7. Many thanks for the tip, especially that the drive slot is to be parallel to the engine when cylinder #1 is at TDC. The oil pump drive has 11 teeth and was two off on my car, resulting in a roughly 66 degrees off rotor. I dropped the pan and the oil pump, aligned the pump and then remounted it in less than two hours with no lift. Only downside is the previous owners use of siliconbased adhesive in addition to the pan gasket, necessitating remaking a pan gasket.
  8. Looking through the speedwaymotors pages, I cannot find any that looks to be a bolt-on fit on my car? Is it maybe a procedure to narrow down what can be used and how to adapt? I was honestly hoping someone would come forward and list a solution they had made for their 40s Mopar.
  9. Found a picture with dimensions. Part #855059. I suspect several years had something similar?
  10. My 1940 Chrysler has a broken stabilizer bar and I did search in vain for years for a used replacement, before I welded what I got with preheating etc. That repaired bar lasted around 2000 miles, but is now again broken and the car really leans in turns. As far as I know, this bar is shared across all Chryslers 1940 and 1941 and of rather small dimensions so an upgrade would be beneficial. Has anyone found a newer and possibly beefier stabilizer bar and mounted that on their 1940s Chrysler?
  11. The color might be original, but the seats appear to be re-dyed with lots of red color to cover up cracks with paint instead of a more thorough repair and refurbish. This might result in stiff and uncomfortable seats and even faster decaying of the leather.
  12. Did he show you that new Imperial in another color? The seats look like they have been recolored with lots of red paint and they will need immediate attention to avoid the leather ripping apart, but they appear original and saveable. The underside also looks alright, not covered in fresh underseal to cover up rust etc. That underside crack looks like it is supposed to be there. But, have you checked the areas around headlights, lower fenders and rocker panels for excessive use of plastic filler? A gauge for that is not too expensive. If you can borrow a endoscope and look into the inner wheelarches that would also be good. Have you tried driving it, does it steer straight and does the brakes pull up straight? Is there excessive smoke for the engine, is it hard to start cold or hot, does the engine temperature and oil pressure at idle stay normal?
  13. 1. Study the model, use Imperial Club Online pages and all the literature you can get hold of. Get to know what an Imperial is supposed to look like. Ask for an expert on 50s Mopars to come along and check, or be available via the telephone/videolink while you inspect the car. 2. To me the interior looks like a quick job in plain materials to smooth a quick sale. Imperial interiors would normally be more intricate and had patterns embossed in the leather in the late 50s? 3. Some Imperials used pot metal instead of stainless for mouldings and as a result had brightwork that is almost impossible to rechrome. 4. The pictures might indicate straight body sides which is good. Generally it looks like a non-restored car that has had a little work done. 5. These cars rust, get to know where and check all rustspots. Bring a large jack and an overall to inspect the car if the vendor doesn't have a lift available. 6. Do not think it must be this car or nothing, take your time. Lots of alternatives around, eg in Sweden with at least 4 Imperials advertised on this web-page: https://www.blocket.se/annonser/hela_sverige/fordon/bilar?cg=1020&mye=1969&page=2&q=chrysler
  14. Interesting topic of adding knock-offs. I gave up a similar project some 10 years ago, as the only alternative quoted for especially the rear wheels was to bolt everything onto the brakedrums making it a "bolt-on knock-off". Compared to the overall cost I decided against it. My cars now run on original wheelhubs with updated spokes and one-piece rims which maybe does not look so cool, but is safe and works very well.
  15. Droite and Gauche (left and right in French, must be made for a French car?)
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