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Narve N

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About Narve N

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    1929 Chrysler Series 65 and 75

    1931 Chrysler

    1940 Chrysler NewYorker

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  1. I believe all 41 New Yorkers had Fluid Drive and a three-speed trans with blocked 1st plus automatic overdrive giving 4 forward ranges. Compared to the 40 NewYorkers, which I have owned since 1990 and which I believe all had FD plus automatic OD and a non-blocked 1st making them 5-speed "semi-automatics". A 41 without FD would have been modified sometime in its life. Which probably is not that difficult.
  2. The car has are dual points and you need two different breakers. Check Brillman for modern replacement including the ever important condenser. Brillman unfortunately does not carry the correct distributor lid with wires exiting on the side, but your car will run well with their stuff.
  3. A grease zerk at the throwout bearing is easy accessible through lifting the lid/cover (two bolts). Bonus is that you can be confirmed that fresh lubricant reaches the target I installed a zerk as the grease "wire" to the fitting had been cut by a previous owner.
  4. Location on a 1928/29 Series 65 engine, right on top of the generator. I believe the Series 62 (1927/28) would be the same, but possibly the Series 72/75 with righthand mounted generator would have the cot-out otherwise placed?
  5. On a 28 the cutout relay mounts directly on the generator, little black box with 3 wires. Replacements (made in the 40s?) are available at interesting prices.
  6. Main issue might be that the drum diameter on the older cars greatly exceeds that of a later car. Ammco 1750 adjustment gauge has 11" drums as maximum size, while the old drums are typical 14" diameter. This wooden adjuster which I bought from Rick Schmidt several years ago will do the brakes on my Series 65s (notice outside brake lines and no X-frame).
  7. My guess: Parts No 74895 in First edition, cast by a company abbreviated to NH
  8. It is (very) likely they interchange. Series 62 head is another tip, the slightly smaller compression chamber on the S62 will give you increased compression and more HP if mounted on a S65/S66.
  9. This is how it is arranged on a Series 65 Roadster. A 1/8" plate fastened with two bolts into the inner fender (cage nuts without reinforcement inside) and one into a fender bolt. Square nut on top holds the step pad.
  10. The casing is usually stamped with the ratio if you look closely. Here is an example of the $22.00 variety.
  11. Series 72 looks similar arranged to a Series 75 with dual lids. You then open the rear part from outside and then the front half from the inside which becomes accessible with the rear opened. Does that make sense?
  12. You can also look behind the generator for casting date, this one is signed by Hercules foundry: If however, your engine is marked with CWC your are into less luck, as this foundry apparently did not datestamp their work: As for Chrysler Historical records: these are sporadic for pre 1930 and early 1929 (my March 1929 Series 65) was not covered. You should anyhow give it a try.
  13. One of my several Series 65 engines had serial number starting with 228809 and dated March 23 of 1929 (zoom in between oil filltube and oil pressure regulator - other locations also seen), so the number 227xxx on its own does not make the car a transition model. Can you locate any casting date on your engine? Very interesting, this is the first 1929 Chrysler (65/775) engine I have seen that do have a fuel pump. Is the manifold modified to take a downdraft or made like that? With a one-piece windshield is the car built outside Detroit?
  14. Series 65 Touring with correct for USA horizontally split windshield (should be chromed, but they rusted badly) and inverted front bumper. Officially 71 made, I have had 1,5 and suspect the numbers are higher as I have collected modern day pictures of at least 10 cars.Here are some, they are all slightly different.
  15. The CG series did not have OD as any OE equipment, but rather a non-synchronized 3-speed with a super-low crawler gear added for a total of 4 manual speeds. In the 80s I read that it was popular to refit the large 31/33 Imperials with a late 30s OD unit to gain synchromesh and better overall ratio for cruising which I guess is done to your car. You should get under the car and find some numbers to determine where your trans origins from. Pulling the cable normally locks out the OD and freewheel. In the 1940 Owners Manual you are recommended to stop the car before locking out Overdr
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