Narve N

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About Narve N

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
  • Interests:
    1929 Chrysler Series 65 and 75

    1931 Chrysler

    1940 Chrysler NewYorker

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. How about this original stripped version for inspiration? Unknown picture, possibly from Europe.
  2. Your proposal does not string any historic cords although someone very well might have done exactly that to a CD8 Roadster. How about mimicking the style Martin Swig applied to his CD, apparently in the line of long-distance racing in Europe where these cars did well? Homemade front cycle fenders and cut down rears, skip the (IMHO ugly) square box on the back and rear-mount the spare instead. Resale value would also benefit to my opinion.
  3. My Bonneville veteran buddy said to double the toe-in from factory spec to ease the cars ability to run straight. Worked for me, no noticeable tire wear and car (1929 Series 65) handles superbly in traffic almost like an English sports car through roundabouts. The 29 takes turns a lot better than my 1940 Chrysler, and probably can get past a roundabout at the same speed as the maximum no-squeal speed of my 55 Chrysler.
  4. I have a crown and pinion set here in Norway will check condition. Can trade for two modern seals which I need for my own Series 65s that drip but don't howl.
  5. Idle needle was of incorrect type on my overhauled BB-1 and the car would regularly miss at idle, stumble and stop if not giver choke or throttle. With correct needle it idles perfectly. I have also experienced another "overhauled" carb that missed an internal balancing spring and gave far too much fuel pr throttle. Otherwise is false air the most common problem, and make sure the ignition is perfect as stated i the adjustment sheet.
  6. I have already bought one axle from Jay Astheimer 10 years ago. Unfortunately, we were not able at the time to find anyone capable of lowering this type of axle and I had the axle shipped to Norway untouched. The cost of shipping back and forth is disclosing a second return of this initial axle. Which I have checked with fit my Series 65 straight if the spring mounts are altered, same track-width for S65 and S75.
  7. I am looking for one of these axles to be lowered and then be put underneath my "Special" build Series 65 with L8. The item will need to be shipped to the guys at for dropping. To avoid being hit by fraudsters who target us foreigners on this site claiming they have everything we need, I would prefer that anyone responding to this ad is able to tell me some dimensions. thank you,
  8. My S65 oil pressure relief valve was stuck and ruined two oil pressure-gauges before I figured out. They also sometimes have a very sloppy spring and is unable to build pressure and generally can be cleaned in an ultrasound bath. Otherwise, install and adjust to 45 lbs and do not worry any more.
  9. The engine is now filled with 6,5 qts of oil. I noticed that the dipstick is likely the original and quotes 6 quarts for full, however the dipstick can be in two positions when fully inserted with about 1/4" travel and 0,3 qts in between them. Likely the fully dipped stick (most optimistic) is the most correct, showing 6 qts when I had filled 6,0. With 6,5 qts the level is another 1/4" above "FULL".
  10. A chisel came in handy to separate the pan from block. Someone previously had used a plenty of adhesive to mount their homemade gasket. Inside was a correct for 1940 solid mounted oil intake with no provision for floating up and down so there are no tabs to be wrongly adjusted. Is there any other way the oil screen/intake can be mounted incorrectly, allowing oil pressure to drop in turns with oil level just below full? As a remedy, can I fill an extra quart above full - or would that create other issues?
  11. The oilpan of my 1940 NewYorker will not come off and I need to check the oil pick-up for free movement as the pressure drops alarmingly in turns. I have slackened all the 26 bolts and banged heavily on the pan sides with a 2x4 piece in between. Any suggestions to what might hold it, I am suspecting that the guys that were "overhauling" the engine in AZ some 15 years ago used Loctite to get it to stick to the block? Would heating everything to a certain temperature help?
  12. I can sell you a head for a fair price here in Norway, however the freighters charges could make picking it up in person a viable option.
  13. Plugs in car are 7/8" thread and branded Autolite 3076, and I have also a set of Motorcraft SP-488/Tt10 available. However there are none left of the Champion W18 I had some success with on another S65.
  14. I have note yet seen any NGK plugs that would fit a Series 65 or Ford Model A (thick 18mm? thread), but generally I always try to put NGK in my cars.
  15. For those following the struggle with engine missing at speed. New coil improved matters just so slightly, new condenser did nothing. Stuttering starts at 40 mph, and car will do 45 max. Any ideas about plugs of various brands? All plugs are of course made for Ford Model A, I am running Autolites on this one (Made in USA it says on box), but the other better performing engine had the larger more authentic looking Champion plugs that Model A people says are only good for parades, but maybe they are better suited for old Chryslers?