Narve N

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About Narve N

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Norway
  • Interests:
    1929 Chrysler Series 65 and 75

    1931 Chrysler

    1940 Chrysler NewYorker

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  1. The CG series did not have OD as any OE equipment, but rather a non-synchronized 3-speed with a super-low crawler gear added for a total of 4 manual speeds. In the 80s I read that it was popular to refit the large 31/33 Imperials with a late 30s OD unit to gain synchromesh and better overall ratio for cruising which I guess is done to your car. You should get under the car and find some numbers to determine where your trans origins from. Pulling the cable normally locks out the OD and freewheel. In the 1940 Owners Manual you are recommended to stop the car before locking out Overdrive, eg before a long downhill. The automatic underdrive (kick-down) was introduced for either 1939 or 1940, before that the only OD activation control was by pulling/pushing the handle.
  2. Memory did not serve me entirely right. Here is what is left, 3 rough cast aluminum, 1x stainless, 4x bronze/chromed. Mounting hole spacing is 8-1/2" for all, the various locations for top rest saddles will fit different models. I am asking $25/ea for the alu ones and $60/ea for the others. Shipping from Norway is not as expensive as I feared, less than $40 to US as a letter (which is good as all parcels are held back due to corona). The alu and stainless ones are bought from Marty Lum, the bronze I have had made in the UK. Note that these differ from the CD8 at start of this thread, but I believe them to be correct for Series 62/72/65 Roadsters.
  3. I still have a few more spares. Chromed bronze and stainless, plus one single alu. Will include picture later tonight.
  4. Go for a repair, if it works you will have saved a bundle. My local friendly repair guy did not give any guarantees, but he believed he managed to seal these and four more leaks in the radiator of a 31. I have not dared tried to fit it in yet, partly because of the weight issue when everything is back together. I previously have had two radiators recored (honeycomb) in the UK for roughly $1600 each. Big money, but not $5000...
  5. Gas tank sending unit:The old ones (90 years) might well work as long as they are treated fair, reproductions can be had to an acceptable price (forgot which vendor can check out), it is usually the gas gauge that plays up. I have a NOS gauge in my Series 65 that refuses to work. It is possibly due to the reproduction sending unit having an incorrect ohm range.
  6. I believe in the bluegreen-colour. 56 Ford Meadowgreen for the Series 65 according to Sherwood Kahlenberg back in 1981. This looks almost like the one scientifically formulated for a 32 on another thread on this forum. But, I have also read that varieties of black are correct, and anyhow the heads should be silver or red. I also struggle with some flaking of paint, possibly due to me not removing all traces of grease before painting it in 2016. Looks better now.
  7. It is also a matter of terminology here, but I believe your solenoid switch is the one encircled, and which I call the kickdown-switch. Which it actually is, and it never worked on this car. 1940 Chrysler NewYorker Business Coupe (anyone seen another?).
  8. That's where you insert the fuse, the top brass piece can be taken off to place a glass fuse inside.
  9. Correction to myself, thy are not necessarily missing the fuse. Checked my own stuff today and the fuse is not visible from the outside.
  10. Both your pictured relays look to be overdrive units, missing their fuse. I know cars with B-W OD could be jumped into overdrive and then would stay there as long as ignition was switched on, useful for long highway runs.
  11. This is the Shop Manual statement for a 1940 with OD, use SAE50 if the car has OD as compared to SAE 90 if it is only a 3-speed. I have found GL-1/50 weight oil and used for my car.
  12. My 40 NewYorker came with backup lights that appear to be original although they are not mentioned in the Accessory Catalog I have copy of. The lights looked good being straight below the taillights as long as the bumper horns were incorrectly mounted too far inboard. Last year I moved the horns to the proper locations outside the rear deck and as a consequence, the backup lights now are partly hidden behind the horns and look out of place. Anyone having information as to where to locate the backup lights correctly? It must either be further outboard or possibly more to the inside of the horns. I have looked at pictures of several restored 1940 cars, and some have one large backup light partly behind the left bumper horn although none have the small ones as my car.
  13. Dave, I never tried this but wish I had known about either method a few years back when I had to get a replacement VIN for a Series 65 with unreadable FEDCO plate. Your reverse-reading method would likely be last resort as some authorities (your DMV wherever you are) will frown upon drilled out spotwelds.