moran75

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About moran75

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  1. Hi all Page 6-14 of manual has a description for installing pinion seal with diff in car - for a 45000 series car.... But this description is omitted from the corresponding part of the manual for the 49000 series. Can I assume the process/methodology is the same for the 49000(Riv)? Also , any tips or additional advice re this process in the real world with a 50 year old car would be appreciated! All the best Kev
  2. Hi all Re. throttle linkage adjustments -my manual (page 3-26) makes ref to throttle linkage in “hot curb idle” position ...I’m assuming this is just a fancy way of saying “at idle after engine is warmed up” - or am I missing something ?! cheers Kev
  3. Aha....many thanks...since posting my question I took a pic as I couldn’t really see what was going on , except that there was some free play going on... I’ve attached it here ...the triangular bit at the top ..is that a remnant of the tab you mentioned? Thanks , kev
  4. Hi All im checking wiring for my kickdown/switch pitch... I’ve unconnected the wires at the transmission ....I note that the connector that sticks out of the trans with the two prongs rotates quite freely ...is this is a sign that it’s not connected properly inside trans at the solenoid? thanks kev
  5. As a fellow European ...can I ask where you got the motor rebuilt ? Not that I need mine rebuilt -yet - but nailhead expertise appears to be thin on ground here in the Uk and I like to plan ahead! Cheers kev
  6. moran75

    '65 wheels

    Hi Ed ....out of interest what do you torque them upto?...I believe it’s different for Rally wheels... cheers kev
  7. Hi Tom can you expand on that for the uninitiated? kev
  8. Thanks chaps...all very informative. I’ll be leaving ‘as is’ - if it’s not broke dont fix it , as they say. Get well soon Ed..sure you’ll be back out on the football field soon.
  9. Hi All im running a stock 1965 riv 401ci. interested in learning a bit about real world operation/benefits of the switch/variable pitch torque converter. When working properly is the high setting automatically switched on when at a stop - in other words you have no choice- or is there some way of manually selecting it as and when you want to pull away a bit quicker from a stop? Off and on when desired? all the best kev
  10. Thanks for commenting so quickly...my door i'snt damaged, certainly not visibly..just slightly lob sided , like a badly hung front door..
  11. Hi All My glove box door opens/closes but doesn't close flush with dash - slightly up on one side and down on other...very annoying as someone has now pointed it out... Is there an easy adjustment, much like on kitchen doors?! Had a look and is not obvious, at least to me .... Scoured the forum and the body service manual but no luck... All the best Kev
  12. Aha...see what you mean, maybe because if vacuum it’s more subtle... will double check ....
  13. Hi all Want to learn a bit more about the workings of the accelerator pump... Running a 65 riv with original carter 4 bl AFB. Engine warm, but turned off - work throttle by hand and I see two nice jets of gas squirted into carb so Acc pump seems good. WhenI try same thing with engine running and in park there are no jets of gas - though engine revs/sounds good. Am I right in saying this is normal and somehow when engine is in D and actually driven, the jets ‘do their thing’ upon initial acceleration? Maybe the vacuum facilitates this? The reason I’m investigating is that I have a ‘bog’ spot when pulling away, but only when pulling away - my money at the moment is on the vacuum advance but that’s another story - at this point just want to learn a bit more about the pump and to confirm my conclusion that it’s working OK based on above tests . Thanks in advance Kev
  14. So...quite a lot to get my head around...so bear with me...am I right in saying that if I don’t repair /adjust the cables, leave the heat/defroster levers as is - midway - and leave heater blower off...then even if all A/C system is perfect (just for arguments sake) then it won’t work properly because of the possibly engaged heater valves/diaphragms etc? or if the heater system is just not working at all, for what ever reason ,then I could repair A/C and use it as per normal despite the heater problems? thanks Kev