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Brand new Buick owner here! 1937 Model 48

Gary W

By Gary W
in Buick - Pre War

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Gary W 10,000+ Points

Gary W

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Hello All!  I just bought my first Buick on Saturday.  It's a 1937 2-door sedan with a trunk, a Model 48.  Literally pulled out of a dirt-floored barn where it sat for the last 6 years.  Got it running, and drove it 15 miles home so I have a good running start, although the paint and interior is shot.  So: I bought the 1937 Buick manual, joined the BCA and now I was wondering if you can help me decode the Fisher tag under the hood:

 

Model 48

Style No: 37 - 4411

Body No: 6889

Trim No: 300

Paint No:  510

Chassis "plate" # 3105718  (the metal plate riveted to the frame behind the front right wheel)  It's also the VIN on the title

Engine #  43279307

 

Also, I ordered a catalog from C.A.R.S., and would surely appreciate any help with reputable vendors.

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Gary Wheeler

NJ

 

 

 

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MCHinson 25,000+ Points

MCHinson

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Gary, 

 

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. You probably willl also want to get a catalog from Bob's Automobilia.  http://bobsautomobilia.com/

 

Additionally, Dave Tacheny is probably the guy with the most parts cars if you are in need of anything from a parts car. He can be reached by phone at 763-427-3460.

 

You should consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club, A division of the BCA at http://www.3638buickclub.org/.  

 

You can download an application to join the club from the website' Membership Page. 

 

Model 48 indicates a Special Two Door Sedan, Trunk back

Style No: 37 - 4411 is the Fisher Body number for the Model 48's Body

Body No: 6889 = individual body sequential number

Trim No: 300 = Tan Bedford Cord upholstery

Paint No:  510 = Hampton Gray Metallic paint

3105718 = Chassis sequential serial number

43279307 = Engine sequential serial number

 

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Gary W 10,000+ Points

Gary W

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On 11/8/2016 at 9:52 PM, MCHinson said:

Gary, 

 

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. You probably willl also want to get a catalog from Bob's Automobilia.  http://bobsautomobilia.com/

 

Additionally, Dave Tacheny is probably the guy with the most parts cars if you are in need of anything from a parts car. He can be reached by phone at 763-427-3460.

 

You should consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club, A division of the BCA at http://www.3638buickclub.org/.  

 

You can download an application to join the club from the website' Membership Page. 

 

Model 48 indicates a Special Two Door Sedan, Trunk back

Style No: 37 - 4411 is the Fisher Body number for the Model 48's Body

Body No: 6889 = individual body sequential number

Trim No: 300 = Tan Bedford Cord upholstery

Paint No:  510 = Hampton Gray Metallic paint

3105718 = Chassis sequential serial number

43279307 = Engine sequential serial number

 

 

Ill try to post some photos today.  Can you find out when the motor was produced?  ( Like month/year?)  

On 11/8/2016 at 9:52 PM, MCHinson said:

 

 

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MrEarl 25,000+ Points

MrEarl

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Hi Gary, and welcome to the BCA forum. Ahhh, a 37 two door trunk back, one of my favorite prewar Buick's. Look forward to hearing more.  

Notice I moved your thread here to Prewar where more of the prewar Buick guys hang out. Hopefully you will start a Me and My Buick thread so we can follow your adventures there also. 

http://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/  

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MCHinson 25,000+ Points

MCHinson

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I don't have any reference source for engine number production by month but the 1937 40 series engine number range appears to be from 43166225 to 43396936. That would make me guess that your engine number would have been produced somewhere near the middle of 1937.

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jenz38 1,000+ Points

jenz38

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Nice car ....?..

congrats..

yes ...,the bullet holes(sticker)...?.., someone had looked too much (Capone-) criminal movies of the 40s .

Buick start in '38 with full metal bodys..

Your door frames are wooden an somthing else, i think...

 

Gary, 'wish you a great time with your car .

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MCHinson 25,000+ Points

MCHinson

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No, the 1937 small series had metal door frames in 1937. The small series had all steel bodies at least as early as 1937. I think it was 1936 that they went all steel but I am not sure. The  large series bodies still had a bit of wood in them until 1938.

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suchan 10,000+ Points

suchan

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Looks great for a barn find. I like that little fan on the steering column.

Bobs Automobilia and Dave Tacheny are the two you should keep on speed dial, although CARS does seem to have certain parts hard to find elsewhere.

Definitely join the 36-38 club, and check the link to scans of the old Torque Tube magazines. Priceless.

If you haven't already, give the cooling system a good flushing. Those straight 8's like to collect gunk in the back. Clean the gas tank/fuel lines, maybe drop and clean out the pan, or at least run a couple of changes of oil through it, etc.

Congrats!

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jenz38 1,000+ Points

jenz38

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5 hours ago, MCHinson said:

No, the 1937 small series had metal door frames in 1937. The small series had all steel bodies at least as early as 1937. I think it was 1936 that they went all steel but I am not sure. The  large series bodies still had a bit of wood in them until 1938.

?....thanks for improvement ?

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FLYER15015 10,000+ Points

FLYER15015

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Gary,

What a great find !!!

2 door '37's are a real chick magnet...........

Please listen to the guys above. They have been there and done that.

Tell us what the gauges said when you drove her home. Temp, oil pressure, amps etc.

I drove my '40 home 120 miles, got talked into pulling the pan, and found the oil pick up tube laying in the bottom under 1.5" of grey mud. DUH !!!!!!

Had chronic overheating, got talked into pulling the rear frost plug, and found & removed 2" of crap all round the rear cylinders. She sure runs cool now.

I'm just saying that some checking and some simple maintenance now may save a lot of heartbreak later.

We don't really own them, we are just caretakers for now.

 

Mike in Colorado

 

PS; The eyelids really have to go. Know anybody with a '40 Chevy ? They'll fit, and he'll love them.

Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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Gary W 10,000+ Points

Gary W

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Thanks for all the support.  Question:  Where would you go to replace the rear leaf springs?  I just noticed that the two upper (long) leaves are broken, so I want to just get two new springs.  But I want to be sure they are the correct width, strength and correct for there car.  Thank you.

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dibarlaw 25,000+ Points

dibarlaw

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Gary:

 For having 2 broken springs your car sits higher than my car. Do a search in your area of NJ. Truck/suspension shops should be in existence somewhere near you. There was a shop in my town of Chambersburg that redid my rear springs. Of course that was over 20 years ago. I still have the rusted covers somewhere.

 I at one time worked for "Liggett Spring and Axle" in East Monongahela PA. Old factory building from the 1890s. We made springs for every thing from Amish buggies to Mack Trucks. We did most of the Chevy light truck springs in the early to mid 1970s.

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Gary W 10,000+ Points

Gary W

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Here's the photo of the broken spring.  Tell me please, what else do I need to do a proper repair?  I was going to order new springs from Eaton Spring.  They sell an "install kit"........Do I need it?  I'll replace the rubber bumpers under there while I have the rear end out.

 

 

 

DSC_0758.jpg

DSC_0759.jpg

DSC_0760.jpg

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F&J 10,000+ Points

F&J

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4 hours ago, Gary W said:

Tell me please,

Call them to detail exactly what is in that install kit.  Might be the eyelet bolts, or-/-and U-bolts, etc.

 

The main reason I replied:  The pics show that the car needs a good going over.(inspection)  Looking at the "dull black" color on the shock lever as well as that brake backing plate, says that is a sign of long term, slow, fluid leaking.  So, all brake drums need to be removed to see of it is axle seal or wheel cyl leaks,,,or both.  The shock was leaking for a long time, so those need a looksee. I'd bet the shock is not working.

 

These two obvious things, as well as the broken spring, means the car inspection/maintenance was lacking for a very long time.

 

Just me, "If I was on a time or money budget", I'd rather go through all the mechanicals first, before paint or interior.

 

.

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MCHinson 25,000+ Points

MCHinson

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Good luck with the springs. It looks like the remains of the original spring covers are still on them. From the photos, I would guess that those springs are original to the car and don't appear to have lubricated much if at all since new. They certainly make me feel better about my springs that I have been thinking about pulling and going through due to some very slight squeaking...

 

I would think that any shop that does regular work on truck springs should be able to help you. Before I committed to new replacement springs, I would compare prices with Dave Tacheny. I suspect he might have good used ones at a significant cost savings.  

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1939_Buick 25,000+ Points

1939_Buick

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1 hour ago, MCHinson said:

I would think that any shop that does regular work on truck springs should be able to help you. Before I committed to new replacement springs, I would compare prices with Dave Tacheny. I suspect he might have good used ones at a significant cost savings.  

Dave T (who will become your new Buick friend)

Is hard to contact, but keep trying in the evening

 

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)
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Marty Roth 25,000+ Points

Marty Roth

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Gary, great looking car - and welcome to the FORUM

 

I had new 1st quality springs made by "ESPO Springs 'n Things" for several of my cars - both leaf and coil: http://www.springsnthings.com/

Eaton Detroit also furnishes quality products: https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

 

Matt is right - consider the '36-'38 Group

Ours is a 1937 80C Roadmaster Phaeton (4-door Convertible Sedan)

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MCHinson 25,000+ Points

MCHinson

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Marty,

 

I probably should have added to this discussion that Gary has joined the 36-38 Buick Club since his initial post here. 

 

Gary,

 

Welcome to the 36-38 Buick Club!  If you want to call Dave Tacheny his number is 763-427-3460.

 

 

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