SpecialEducation

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Everything posted by SpecialEducation

  1. Wow, I LOVE it. I don’t love it $5500 worth, but I do love it! (I drove an ‘82 in high school... lol)
  2. Ok, I see. Just this little L bracket...
  3. Anybody got any information on the firewall bracket? Photos? @Pete Phillips?
  4. Interested, think I have the pulley anyway. Might have friends in the area that could help with getting it to Kansas...
  5. Yeah, it was a broadcast list. To and from show as the same address.
  6. Yeah, that too... I’m certainly not going to respond, but since the AACA name was dropped, I thought I’d share here to warn others.
  7. Anyone know these guys? Unsolicited email looking for nothing specific... looks like a scam to me.
  8. I’d like to see photos... lol I bought a 4 bbl intake specifically for putting a FITech system on the ‘56. My plan is to find a spare 2bbl air cleaner to modify so it looks stock at first glance...
  9. On our ‘56, the shaft seal was the real problem, not the torque ball itself. It looked like someone had installed the wrong seal decades ago. When we bought our tq ball kit, it had the wrong seal too, so we acquired one locally.
  10. 1357106 comes up as a factory ‘64 425 manifold (per Buicks.net).
  11. Anything is possible with enough time and money. The torque tube is structural. If you put an open drive line in, the axle won’t stay in place on the coil springs. There are 4-link kits available, but you still have to do some cutting/welding. 1st gen Riviera axles happen to be the exact same width as the factory small body axle, by the way... By the time you hunt down the parts, do the mods, devalue the car, etc... the economy of a cheap bowtie isn’t all that cheap. The problem with economizing is that sometimes it’s very expensive.
  12. Yes, different versions in different years. You can’t drop a 425 2x4 on a 264. There are also aftermarket options out there, some better than others (2x4 Offy’s are junk). Here’s some info... http://centervilleautorepair.com/intake
  13. If it’s not slipping and it’s not throwing the belt, leave it be. I’ve seen expensive damage done from over-tightening belts because a mechanic thought “that just doesn’t seem right.”
  14. If you set cruise, and the light comes on, that suggests to me that the controller thinks everything on the body side of the system is okay (stalk wiring, brake trigger, etc.). Sounds to me like a servo has failed.
  15. I have not traced the Reatta wiring specifically, but typical GM cruise control monitors the circuit from the brake switch end. There was a TSB for the early ‘90s wagons because bad contacts (high resistance) at the hatch would cause cruise to randomly drop. The fix was to put a resistor in the circuit, parallel to ground ahead of the bulbs; 390 ohms, I think. This dropped the resistance of the circuit within acceptable range whether the HMSL was connected or not.
  16. Check yer 3rd brake light bulbs. If resistance on that circuit is not in the proper range, cruise won’t engage. LEDs are a no-no here, unless you add a parallel resistor to drop the resistance.
  17. This sounds familiar... did you post this question on Facebook yesterday? lol The light is on the instrument panel dimmer circuit. The lighter is on it’s own. Have you pulled the plug out of the console and rung out the wire between the terminal & the fuse?
  18. Ok, here we go: 4 ohms per speaker is correct for the non-Bose door speakers. I couldn’t find a wire diagram to see how it’s actually wired, but the troubleshooting trees give us some clues. Apparently the Bose system still uses 10 ohm speakers all around.
  19. My Riv/Reatta book wasn’t where I expected it to be so I couldn’t check the schematic last night, but if you’ve got the speakers out, you could do a quick continuity check. One of the wires between the front speakers should be zero ohms (or pretty close). That would solve the mystery pretty quick.
  20. Well, when people talk about “transistor” radios, it’s usually a contrast to tube sets. Pretty sure your ‘90 Riv doesn’t have tubes, as my ‘90 Reatta doesn’t either... lol Yes, dropping the ohms too low equals higher power consumption and possible heat issues in the power amp transistors. That said, if the front speakers are wired in series, simply add the impedance of the two. In other words, if the 4” and the tweets are both 4 ohm and in series, the circuit would be 8 ohms. That would not be a significant difference in operation. Now, I don’t KNOW that it’s wired that way, but it’s my best guess with given data. I need to replace speakers in the Reatta too, so I’ll try to look it up tonight to be sure.
  21. Well, I’m pretty sure that claiming some special form of knowledge or fabrication of your own definitions of terms to argue against data that came from Buick’s own literature is a classic example pretentiousness. I’ve been driving a ‘56 Buick for over 25 years. If YOU can’t feel the difference between low GEAR and drive, maybe YOURS is broken. 🤷🏼‍♂️
  22. What are you talking about? My bicycle is a 5-speed. It doesn’t shift automatically, and technically it has sprockets, not gears, but when I tell people it’s a 5-speed, they somehow seem to understand without getting pretentious. Look: GEARS!!! 🙄
  23. I can post the entire service manual and nobody will read it, so I'll just post this snip. Direct drive and low gear. Sounds like two speeds to me.
  24. Why, pray tell, is it not a 2 speed? It has two speeds...