SpecialEducation

Are you on Facebook? If so, join FirstGen Jbodies. Guys in the group constantly search for cars & post them up.

Yeah, I found that odd, too. Seems to me they are riveted on before the body is painted, and that’s obviously not the case here. A lot can happen in 65 years, I may have been repainted more than once

or “numbers matching” on a car that pre-dates matched numbers. lol

We use preservative oil in airplane engines that’s green, but it’s a much darker green. I’d call your engine builder and ask.

Dex3 viscosity should be very close to the fluid it was designed for. Dex6 is thinner, which would give you a slightly higher stall.

If the old fluid was lower viscosity (breaking down or just lower spec) it could change the loading characteristics of the torque converter some. What type of fluid did you put in?

Wow, I LOVE it. I don’t love it $5500 worth, but I do love it! (I drove an ‘82 in high school... lol)

Ok, I see. Just this little L bracket...

Anybody got any information on the firewall bracket? Photos? @Pete Phillips?

Interested, think I have the pulley anyway. Might have friends in the area that could help with getting it to Kansas...

Yeah, it was a broadcast list. To and from show as the same address.

Yeah, that too... I’m certainly not going to respond, but since the AACA name was dropped, I thought I’d share here to warn others.

Anyone know these guys? Unsolicited email looking for nothing specific... looks like a scam to me.

I’d like to see photos... lol I bought a 4 bbl intake specifically for putting a FITech system on the ‘56. My plan is to find a spare 2bbl air cleaner to modify so it looks stock at first glance...

On our ‘56, the shaft seal was the real problem, not the torque ball itself. It looked like someone had installed the wrong seal decades ago. When we bought our tq ball kit, it had the wrong seal too, so we acquired one locally.

1357106 comes up as a factory ‘64 425 manifold (per Buicks.net).

Anything is possible with enough time and money. The torque tube is structural. If you put an open drive line in, the axle won’t stay in place on the coil springs. There are 4-link kits available, but you still have to do some cutting/welding. 1st gen Riviera axles happen to be the exact same width as the factory small body axle, by the way... By the time you hunt down the parts, do the mods, devalue the car, etc... the economy of a cheap bowtie isn’t all that cheap. The problem with economizing is that sometimes it’s very expensive.

Yes, different versions in different years. You can’t drop a 425 2x4 on a 264. There are also aftermarket options out there, some better than others (2x4 Offy’s are junk). Here’s some info... http://centervilleautorepair.com/intake

If it’s not slipping and it’s not throwing the belt, leave it be. I’ve seen expensive damage done from over-tightening belts because a mechanic thought “that just doesn’t seem right.”

If you set cruise, and the light comes on, that suggests to me that the controller thinks everything on the body side of the system is okay (stalk wiring, brake trigger, etc.). Sounds to me like a servo has failed.

I have not traced the Reatta wiring specifically, but typical GM cruise control monitors the circuit from the brake switch end. There was a TSB for the early ‘90s wagons because bad contacts (high resistance) at the hatch would cause cruise to randomly drop. The fix was to put a resistor in the circuit, parallel to ground ahead of the bulbs; 390 ohms, I think. This dropped the resistance of the circuit within acceptable range whether the HMSL was connected or not.

Check yer 3rd brake light bulbs. If resistance on that circuit is not in the proper range, cruise won’t engage. LEDs are a no-no here, unless you add a parallel resistor to drop the resistance.

This sounds familiar... did you post this question on Facebook yesterday? lol The light is on the instrument panel dimmer circuit. The lighter is on it’s own. Have you pulled the plug out of the console and rung out the wire between the terminal & the fuse?

Ok, here we go: 4 ohms per speaker is correct for the non-Bose door speakers. I couldn’t find a wire diagram to see how it’s actually wired, but the troubleshooting trees give us some clues. Apparently the Bose system still uses 10 ohm speakers all around.

My Riv/Reatta book wasn’t where I expected it to be so I couldn’t check the schematic last night, but if you’ve got the speakers out, you could do a quick continuity check. One of the wires between the front speakers should be zero ohms (or pretty close). That would solve the mystery pretty quick.