old-tank

Matt You may not have to completely remove the rear end. On 55's: remove panhard bar, shock links (yours is different here), disconnect brake line, brake cables and with it hanging from the springs, pull back as far as it will go. The transmission only has to go back less than 2" before you lower it. Willie

The Harbor freight model is similar to the one I bought from TP 20 years ago. Using only glass beads I have gone thru 4 pairs of glove and 6 ceramic tips ( which need to be matched to your air supply ). TP sells upgrade/replacement parts. Even though it is a cabinet it is messy, so don't put it next to where you rebuild engines and transmissions. The scotchbrite wheel is a good idea too!...nice finish. (bead blast, scothbrite wheel, clearcoat...) The aluminum washers only serve as a seal under the head of bolts. In most cases sealer on the treads will serve the same purpose (except the valley cover on nailheads)...I too would like to know a source (tired of making them ) Willie

Cool! Can we expect you in the next Sonic commercial?...wearing your dufus face of course! :cool:

Good point. Check with heat gun at the thermostat housing. Other considerations: fill level in tank (if filled to top it will always 'find it's level'...1/3 full is adequate); clogged coolant passages in block/cylinder head creating hot spots.

Good job! How's the back and knees this morning? I don't see any helpers in the picture, which is a good thing (I had to send mine home since there were too many 'opinions'). You may have to put the motor mounts on the engine first, then install...no big deal if clearance issues. Too bad only the lizards will see that frame detail from now on. Willie

Blast cabinet...that is the single most useful tool in my shop.

http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/12355688.html much later than 54

Hey Beer-breath, that 52 has no stator control, passing gear or switch-pitch...that started in 55.

Disagree

Old Wrecking Yard? More like a graveyard...sad.

I wouldn't use that to lubricate the wheels on my lawn mower. I can't write what my transmission builder said about the current Type A. Willie

I guess my previous post got hacked like a lot of others...anyhow it was a pleasure to finally meet John and his enthusiastic son and get together with old friends. The weather could have been cooler, but the beer is cold no matter what the weather. Everyone was so helpful. When Mike pulled up with the trailer, Don Mitchell jumped in the truck to guide him to a place to park and unload. By the time I got there he was already under the back side of the CVT getting the axle straps off. Then when I was helping Mike and Jon load and tie down the CVT, Pete Phillips drove by and offered some advice, even though I don't understand how to actually accomplish that maneuver. Maybe he will demonstrate sometime, or in the meantime we will study the iphone video that Jon captured. Willie

Inside of RH (passenger side) manifold just above outlet to exhaust pipe.

Like John says...I only have 85w-140 on hand, so that is what I use in the rear and steering gear. Willie

This will get you close. Steel Bolt Torque Specifications Table - Engineer's Handbook That should be a 5/16 bolt (never reuse old bolts!) Willie

yes

The only time I have seen that mythical "blow-by" after a valve job was when compression was zero due to a burned exhaust valve and was used like that for a long time allowing the piston rings to gum up. It was also on a flathead motor that had a steady diet of non detergent oil.

Or "Has original 3-speed dynaflow". When questioned: "reverse, low, drive":confused:....

R-12? Listen for the Guvmunt helicopters...

Without pictures, we will never know....optional.

The oil flows from the pump, through the main oil gallery, and to the front cam bearing; from there, oil goes to each of the lifter galleries and to the rocker shafts on the heads. My best guess would be the front cam bearing may be installed incorrectly or the new cam does not have a groove on the front journal....might even be some sludge that got dislodged (since that is the only thing you changed on a running engine).

What is the brand of tire that Diamondback used and the date code? The tires I got from Diamondback were less than a month old when I received them (vs 2 years old from another vendor that I sent back); brand was Firestone FR380 (no longer made ). IF the tires are shown to be defective you should have no problem getting replacements (I had a cosmetic issue on one and a replacement was sent along with a return label for the old tire). The only good way to check the rims is to remove the tire...

Thanks for the update Paul. Another example that those old units can be revived to chill again!

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/1955-rim-wheel-cross-reference-needed-358180.html There is a picture on that tread.

Roy So you are going to keep the best ones? You deserve it! (by the way that trailer weighs 2000 lbs unless it is aluminum) Willie