old-tank

Don't even consider doing it any other way. 55 used a one year only rear pinion bearing and a housing to match, so other year gears cannot be installed and 55 cannot be installed in any other housing (other years may have similar problems). Also if installing replacement gears, it is a real pain to set the pinion on those things. Willie

Leave the points in for now until you get it sorted out. Then if you really want to install the Pertronix...just be sure to install a new rotor and check it frequently; and don't bypass the resistor on the firewall ( and use a stock coil ). {Now for my unsolicited rant on Pertronix: (don't put it in a 55!) There is nothing special about installing electronic ignition in a stock distributor. Maybe if you adapted an HEI to your engine you might get the advantage of the larger distributor cap, thicker wires and the ability to install plugs with a wider gap. Any ignition system, electronic or points is just a switch, with electronic only having the advantage of working at high rpm (6,000+). Also I have had some disasters with the Pertronix unit. It worked (same as stock with no increase in mpg, power or driveability) for 5,000 miles and then my rotor burned. Burned as in it literally caught fire inside the distributor and burned the tip off. The next year a friend had the exact same thing happen. Not heeding those incidents, I put the same unit in another engine with you guessed it... It seems that the carbon rod between the center and tip of a 55 rotor is what burns. Calls to Pertronix were useless, since they offered no technical support. The original instructions for wiring to the car called for bypassing the resistor on the firewall. This is supposed to result in a hotter spark if used with their 'FlameThrower' coil. Internet research showed new installation instructions: use a stock coil and don't bypass the firewall resistor. I have not tried this and you should not either just to pay for an expensive switch. Stock points/condensor will last 30,000 miles and will serve you well, just like they did when these old cars were contemporary. I would rather change them when I want to, not in the hot parking lot of a truck stop in Little Rock, AR. I still have the Pertronix and might sell it to someone I don't like, but would not sell or give to a friend.} Willie

Jumping across the wires on the carb is a good idea, but be careful since they are not fuse protected...if they are shorted to ground, it will nearly instantly fry your wiring harness. :eek: If that does not work, jump 12v+ to the black wire on the starter relay (goes to the solenoid) and report back (turn the key on so it keeps running after cranking and be sure the car is in park since this bypassed the safety start switch. Willie

After being sure that the distributor is installed correctly: timing marks lined up on compression stroke and rotor pointing to #1 plug wire; and that the wires are in the correct firing order, you may have to turn the distributor during cranking to get it to run. My distributor ended up oriented differently than when points were installed. Willie

Bill, you need to call them...they did not have a listing for Ben's 248 engine either...

If your finish coat is lacquer, just use lacquer primer ( the old dusty stuff ) over the metal (and any plastic body fillers or lead)you prepped with phosphoric acid or etching primer. In this case there is no need to use any of those toxic catalyzed products. Willie

Without causing brain swelling with this: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html I used 20 amp as recommended in my 12v 51 Ford truck. No instructions on your motor? Willie

"Red 53 Skylarks are a dime a dozen." How can red one be dime a dozen when any 53 Skylark is far from dime a dozen . Paint it red with a complimentary interior...your car to live with and enjoy for awhile. Car shows: any show where there is a hint of subjective judging involved, red will alway win even if next to a much better Cream. Resale: remember "resale red"? My first desktop background was of a red 53 Skylark (Windows95)... Willie

I've been working on that for a long time now... and with all the promised beers, it should be no problem. Probably... I used it with equally good results on a 51 Ford truck instrument needles. My first attempt at refinishing the needles was on my convertible. I went to paint store and had some custom mixed ($$) that matched exactly the unfaded portion of a gauge. I was way too dark after installation. So I went the other direction and used the fluorescent orange thinking I would have to tone it down a bit, but it turned out to be a dead match. Willie

Krylon 3101 Red-Orange Fluorescent Paint - 11 oz. Aerosol Used with great results --- spray into lid, paint on needles with brush. Willie

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/edelbrock-1406-conversion-333493.html ...will need to get a 4-barrel manifold http://forums.aaca.org/f118/1950-special-modified-12v-efi-345328.html ...probably the ultimate solution I am about convinced that the crappy gas that is available and proposed will never work in a carburetor.... Willie

Now that you have gotten good at it bleed the front brakes one more time. Inspect the shoes for any contamination. Wheel bearing preload: after all free play is gone tighten until you can get the cotter pin installed.

If you do decide to use bait, use tamper resistant like http://www.qcsupply.com/commercial-industrial/pest-control-rodent-insect/traps-bait-stations/230129-motomco-tamper-resistant-mouse-bait-station.html Use only d-Don brand biggest chunks (this brand is the only one with the old and effective anticoagulant --- rodents bleed internally or externally and die). This way there is slim chance pets will get exposed and if they do, they can be treated and there is an antidote. Do not use any products with Bromethalin. It is less effective (ineffective at my garage), contains a neurotoxin ( there is no treatment or antidote! ). Place the bait stations at the corners of the garage... they will find it even if they are already in the cars (don't invite them in for lunch). Wash (pressure) the car before storage, especially the radiator since mice will eat the bugs and can puncture the radiator, getting their own dose of antifreeze. Willie

Nice shots!

Wire wheels are pretty and a pretty big pain in the arsch. Cleaning and polishing are a 4 hour job, since they need to be dismounted to do it right...you will need to make some guide studs when installing (the guide pin is not enough to hold it into position). Run from them...

Mud Looking good! Thanks for calling the wrong seal number to my attention: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/low-tech-tips-mid-50s-buicks-249116.html ...it has been corrected! I expect to see a video of the bench test... Willie

Ausgescrewen!(not a real word in any language, but you get the drift...) Anyhow it has been called to my attention that I screwed up. I had the wrong part number on the metric seal above and that has been corrected now and also on my website. At least on digital media it can be corrected, unlike that bungled 55 Buick article in the Bugle. Willie

If you car has power brakes there is a similar canister driver side inside rear frame. http://forums.aaca.org/f163/55-century-66r-project-292364.html somewhere in Mudbone's thread there should be a picture. Willie

Send me a pm and I will give you a link to the body manual on my server, which should help with the trim issues. Willie

Problems with that procedure: if the car has the original 'push-gas-pedal' start system, it will not start with the generator disconnected; polarizing is not necessary if it was recently working. Easiest to swap the regulator with your spare (you do have a spare, don't you )...if no joy remove the generator for testing/repair. Of course check all connections and grounds. Willie

Bob's Automobilia has it on exchange basis. I have rebuilt a few, but would not do it for the $60 they charge. (details on request if you want to tackle it) Willie

The 'other numbers' you posted are Carter WCFB carb numbers used in 55 and would not interchange with the Rochester 4GC. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/ should have it, but you will probably need to buy a rebuild kit.

Ok, the picture in post #30 is from probably a 57...throw it away before it confuses all of us! The pictures in post #19 shows a missing duct that goes from the blower housing to the heater/defroster. There are also some heater hoses shown in that area...where do these go on your car? What do you have on the inside of the car passenger side behind the kick panel? Pictures?

"put open baking soda boxes on interior floor to absorb moisture" Baking soda will not absorb moisture; odors only...

If the whole car is white, pick a shade that suits you and is a current production color that is easy to duplicate or is available for touch-up. If the car is 2-tone, pick a white that compliments the adjacent color. For instance the 55 dover white is a little yellowish and compliments Cherokee Red and Condor Yellow, but looks nasty next to Cadet Blue. If there are 4 restored cars at a show with Dover White paint, none will match...and none will match the original car. Willie