53buickconvert

I remember this taking quite a while during reassembly, still not perfect but it doesn’t hit or rub.

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Body+mounts&search_in_description=1&categories_id=35&inc_subcat=1&manufacturers_id=&pfrom=&pto=&dfrom=&dto= I used some of these when I put my body back on with an occasional late modle steel shim for fit. Tim

I believe they were an original option for my car? Does anyone know for sure? Tim

I thought too about getting the wire wheels for my Roadmaster. After doing some research on them and finding the issues, seeing the expense and everything else, I found a nice set of the wire hubcaps with a few spares and have been very happy with them. Tim

Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions. I finally got it running right, not sure if it was dumb luck or the attempt at a methodical approach to fix the problem. First I checked each cylinder for compression and they all checked good. Next I found a couple of bad spark plug wires which I got from a prominent online Buick parts supply company when I rebuilt the engine a few years back. I found that by accident when checking things with my timing light and I know that they had initially worked. The other issue and main one was that I needed to extend my adjustable pushrods to a longer length. Still not sure why that is. That was time consuming effort since it didn’t originally have adjustable pushrods and had to be adjusted with the rocker arm shaft off or top of the engine opened up. Bottom line is it’s running well and sounding good, other than the voltage regulator going out the other evening, but that’s another story. Still love my Roadmaster.

Attached are a couple videos of the engine running. The one showing the exhaust is just after starting and the engine is not warmed up yet. I did drive it up to the machine shop that did the work on the engine to get his opinion on what was going on. He got an adjustable pliers out and moved a couple rocker arms to check the movement up and down with the engine off. A couple of the arms could be moved a considerable amount (1/8” maybe) He thought one of three things could be going on: 1. Pushrods wrong length 2. Lifters not operating properly 3. Clogged oil galley, no or low oil pressure right bank. He said thought if it was a hardened seat coming loose, it would be backfiring missing, etc. and not running very well. He recommended comparing oil pressure in both banks, maybe by slightly loosening rockerarm shaft arms while running and rechecking lifters to see if they are operating properly. He also had great disdain for currently available parts and had little confidence in the tolerances they are made to. A couple things I have done was to remove the rocker arm shaft assembly from my parts car and run it with that. It made no difference in sound. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I did run it with the fuel/vacuum pump off the engine to see if that was the noise, it wasn’t. It’s been cold here in SW Iowa, so when it warms up later this week I hope to check a couple things. Tim 95D65F09-CE6D-4D05-825F-22DBCF36D738.MOV 1329F256-2BE2-4DCC-BD95-66EDD0D25158.MOV

If I didn’t say earlier, it starts and runs well, smooth and doesn’t smoke.

I have verified the rocker arm shaft is right side up. I did have the hardened valve seats put in ( this happened before finding this site 5 years or so ago, wish I hadn’t had them put in). I also verified oil pressure at the bottom of the rocker arm shaft supports with the engine running. Im soaking the original rocker arm shaft and arms, going to try it out with that to see if it makes any difference before tearing anything apart. Thanks for for all the input so far! Tim

It was completely rebuilt a few years back. I have been dealing with the noise since I assembled it. Had the regular pushrods after rebuild and I attempted to get rid of the noise by getting adjustable pushrods. That didn’t help. Runs well, doesn’t smoke. The machine shop did the block work and installed a new cam and bearings and did the head work, I assembled it all with new valve train components, bearings, pistons, etc. I have had the intake and cover off numerous times attempting to diagnose the issue. The pushrods don’ t appear to be bent. Thought maybe it was the fuel/vac. pump but that’s not it either. Tried putting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and pushrods to see if there was a loose one but that didn’t make a difference. kinda at a loss of what to do next other than pulling the head. Tim

Can anyone tell me what this noise is? I used a stethoscope but can’t pinpoint it. Coming from the right bank. It’s not the vacuum/fuel pump. Tried everything I could think of. With the pushrods/lifters.?9571BCBD-7670-4EAA-9E4B-9357A7F95BC3.MOV Tim

Thanks Al, that is very helpful information. On the EVP that I have, the motor will not run and one of the hose connectors to the housing is broken. I have to admit that during my restoration, I attempted to keep everything as original as possible, but I did put a late model brake booster on so I was better able to avoid any damage to the expensive stainless and chrome on the front of my Roadmaster. Tim

I took this off my parts car (53 Riv) and not sure what it is and if is an original or add on item. It was located in the left inner fender wall and I believe plumbed to the vacuum system. Any info. would be appreciated. Tim

I have a 53 riviera parts car that I used for my road master restoration. The original front seats from the roadmaster are a little rough but could be made to work. Some other parts from the riv too. PM me and let me know what you need.

I ensured all four light housings in the back were fully grounded followed by tracking back the brake light wire to the fuse panel. I had mistakenly connected the brake light wire to the light switch. Not sure how this happened. It took a while to figure this all out but it works now. thanks for all the

The Directional signal lamp operates fine both sides which is separate from the combination tail and stop lights. The problem is that the only way to get the stop lights to come on is by selecting the parking lights on. When driving lights are selected on, the brake lights go off. There is power to the brake light switch. Grounding has been checked but I guess I could check it again.