old-tank

You don't have a leak --- that is about as good as it gets. It leaking when you have a 6" puddle after every stop and the underside is rust proofed. Willie

Hopefully those parts are just waiting their turn or that left coast state is requiring a pcv valve . Tip: replace those original power steering hoses! When (not if) the high pressure line sprays a mist of fluid on the hot manifold you will end up with a 'crispy-critter'. Have the hoses duplicated locally and try to match the constricted section on the high pressure hose, otherwise it will be noisy. More tips or ranting: replace all rubber parts like brake hoses, fuel line from the steel line to the pump, hoses and belts ( did you hear about the dumb-ass that tried to drive to South Bend with belts that were replaced 90,000 miles ago )<-- I resemble that remark Willie

It will 'fit' and probably serve you well as long as you avoid parades, mountains, and added a/c...

That is your advantage...you are among the few that would know how to put it together and know where to find the missing parts. The car might have been worth $100,000 before disassembly. Subtract half that value for non-running/driving (always assume that some or all of the drivetrain will need replacement); then subtract another fourth of that value for disassembled car (always assume there are expensive parts missing). $25K would be a starting point. I might go a little higher for a car that I know how to fix and put together (55 Buick). Willie

http://hagensautoparts.com/buick/41-electrical/14345/ Vacuum advance here and others out there. After you get you get your 'rebuilt and tested' carb installed be sure the ignition system is working as designed.

Nice score. Keep the pictures and updates coming (but no more pictures with it on a trailer )

Most stock or well engineered 'overload' springs will not affect the empty ride height; just the loaded ride height. If you travel with lots of tools and parts in the trunk or pile 6 people in frequently, the overloads would be a better choice. Willie

Brian I can get you one also. Send a PM if interested. Willie

Good point that I have noticed too. The old headlight aiming chart in my 1950 Motors manual did not work with halogens. I just matched a modern car beam pattern (one with good lights). Willie

Home Depot...

Gotcha!

email or pm and address

If the stator control pivot is all you are lacking you should be able to put the accelerator linkage together and have that part working. Let me know if that works...I have the part you need, just want to be sure that is ALL that you need. Willie

How many springs do you need?

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/956-power-steering-change-308494.html Some previous discussion that may help...

Online version??

Maybe a picture will help, since I don't know what you are referring to with the term 'diaphragm with a weep hole'. If it is the outer torque ball retainer (originals had a boot) at the back of the transmission, that is an easy and effective fix. Willie

:confused::confused:

Mud --- I think that all of the small series hinges in that location are the same. Anyhow I cannot help with the complete hinges since out of 2 parts cars I still had to remove rivets and good springs to make one complete...used steel pop rivets. I may have springs. Willie

IF...it is like 55: Bob's Automobilia. Carquest 56-1694 is the same. Located probably inner fender or firewall, with one of the wires to the solenoid attached.

That works if the housings have not been changed. If the cover is off, count and divide the ring gear teeth number by the pinion teeth number. The teeth numbers should also be on the rear face of the pinion gear: 13-47-GM = 3.6 ratio. Of course you will need the appropriate speedometer gear ( the parts book lists gears depending on axle ratio and tire size combinations ) ...And yes, the 3.6 will give a little better 'seat of the pants' acceleration experience, with slightly higher cruising RPM with no noticeable loss in fuel economy. Willie

What a deal!

Before you buy parts, be sure there is no binding in the choke or linkage. Remember, to adjust the choke the throttle must be opened (and must be opened to set the choke before starting --- usually not an issue if using the stock vacuum start). Willie

Makin' it look easy again.

All good suggestions, but if you are going to drive it install the halogens (I'll send you a nasty-gram if you blind me with the xenons). I have halogens in one of my three 55's...guess which one I would drive across county at night? If you keep the originals, then max speed at night = 50mph.