Buford

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About Buford

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  • Birthday 08/14/1943

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  • Location:
    Moline, IL

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  1. You could be right, Dave. I checked with the people at Tanks, Inc. about this but they couldn't confirm whether it should or shouldn't for a '53 Buick, only that it doesn't. Their tanks are made in Taiwan. Hopefully, I'll get some more responses to know for sure. And I remember the sound of gas sloshing in the tank too years ago.
  2. I recently took delivery of a new gas tank from Tanks, Inc. in Monticello, Iowa for my '53 and just out of curiosity looked inside to see what the baffles look like since their website describes them as "fully baffled". Outside of a short one at the bottom of the filler tube I don't see any other baffles including any evidence of spot welds for any I might not be able to see through the pick-up tube hole. Anybody have any knowledge of what baffles should be in a gas tank?
  3. Thanks Buckeye2. I noted in the instructions that came with the Airtex pump that they say the same thing...mount it as close to the tank as you can.
  4. I'm putting in an electric fuel pump in my '53 Super to avoid the excessive cranking after it's sat for a while but also for a backup if I experience vapor lock. I find that now the CRT-P60504 electric pump suggested in this thread is now no longer made according to Summit Racing so I got their recommended replacement, the Airtex 8016SX which gives 2.5 - 4 lbs. psi of pressure. I see in the shop manual that the mechanical pump puts out 4.5 - 5.5 lbs. Any opinions on whether the Airtex 8016SX pressure will not quite be enough? I'm going to bypass the mechanical pump with the electric.
  5. rh - Sorry for the long delay in replying but my wife passed away in October and I haven't been back on the forum until now. Yes, I still have the manifold if you're still interested. Alan
  6. Wooly15, the rest of the story is that the new speedometer cable and casing I got, I bought for my '54 Mercury, not for my '50 or '53 Buick. Seems like no one supplies a cable and casing if you have a '54 Merc with an automatic. Manual, yes, but the length is different. The folks at lincolnoldparts.com in Florida said they have an outside supplier that can make one for me and that's what I got. Hopefully they can make one up for you too if it would come to that. There are certainly a lot more parts available for old Buicks than for old Mercurys though and I'm guessing Summit just sent you the wrong one. As for the cable lubrication, I thought about the white lithium grease and ended up using the penetrating graphite oil. I hope I don't regret it. The '54 Merc dash with the "spaceship" controls is no walk in the park to get at the speedo cable connection either. Thanks to everyone for their recommendations. Alan
  7. Dig, Yes, take out the 4 bolts and you'll find a similar fiber board behind the first. It's been a long time since I took mine out (very long term restoration) but I'm thinking the firewall opening is sandwiched between the two fiber boards. I'd have to assume that there would be a nut and washer on the backside of the second board but I don't remember specifically about that. Alan
  8. Dig, As Ben said, it should come out with the panel. I looked at the one on my '50, which is still removed from the firewall, and see no evidence of gluing on mine. If you don't have it out already, I think you'll find it not to be a problem. Assuming that you're removing the speedometer for repair, and if you haven't already decided where to send it, I was satisfied with the speedometer repair and price for my '53 from Instrument Services, Inc. in Machesney Park, Il. 800/558-2674 for what it's worth.
  9. Just got my question answered by scrolling down further after posting this and finding the post of December 31st by Wolly15. Should have checked other posts first. Thanks to JohnD1956 and Tinindian for their info in that post.
  10. I bought a new speedometer cable (core and casing) and, wanting to check to make sure it's pre-lubed, I pulled the core out a little way from the top but didn't find much oily residue on my fingers even though it slid out easily. To be on the safe side, I'm going to lube it myself and have a penetrating graphite oil which is supposed to work for that but it is very thin and seems likely to just run to the bottom. What's a good lubricant for this?
  11. The panel on the firewall is the access to the back of the instruments and you'll find easy access to the fuses also. That panel has got to be one of the greatest advancements in automotive maintenance of the dashboard. I've got a '54 Mercury also which doesn't have that panel and have spent hours contorted underneath the dash and then time at the chiropractor after.
  12. Got everything buttoned up and no leaks. What I now think was the reason for the mysterious leak was not replacing the shims between the thrust mount pad and the crossmember when I put in the new thrust mount pad. There were two shims when I took it apart but there didn't seem to be a space for them with the new thrust mount pad so I left them out when I shouldn't have. I think the lack of shims distorted the torque ball outer retainer just enough to leak. Thanks for everybody's input. Alan
  13. I agree with Mr. Earl and Old Tank. When I bought my '53 last summer it arrived with the no park problem. After about 10 attempts to readjust the trans linkage with no success, I noticed that the trans thrust pad was broken. Then I saw that the trans mount pad was broken too. An inspection of the motor mounts showed they also were broken. Long story short, with all new mounts and thrust pad and another linkage adjustment, I have park again.
  14. Thanks Peter for your step by step instructions. They certainly helped. I've inspected the torque ball and inner retainer and can find no compromised area on the inner retainer. The only thing I wonder about is the position of the bronze bushing in the torque ball. It protrudes forward into the concave area about 7/16" (see picture) rather than being flush with the surface. Is this correct? It just doesn't look right even though I wouldn't think it would have anything to do with the leak. I don't want to put it back together until someone can verify the bushing position. As for the outer retainer, the rubber ring is noticeably more substantial in the new retainer. It looks like it would take care of my leak problem even if I never pin down the cause.
  15. I appreciate you guys weighing in about my problem. I was really pulling for Old Tank's suggestion to be the easy answer but it wasn't to be and the rubber seal in the outer retainer is still firmly in place so that's not the problem. I ordered a new torque ball retainer seal kit this morning and tomorrow will pull back the differential and torque tube hopefully with little or no problem and then I'll be able to inspect the torque ball and inner retainer. I'm told sometimes the torque tube can be pulled back without disconnecting the springs and shocks and sometimes you can't. I have disconnected the emergency brake cable and brake line already so I'll see how it goes and give you an update.