Buford

Thanks to each of you for your suggestions! I appreciate your replies. The job suddenly looks a lot easier. Thank you!

The front lever shocks on my '53 Buick Super need to have oil added and I've read that hydraulic jack oil works well. The help I'm looking for however is the best way to fill them given that the fill hole is so small and the inner fender well is right over the top of them on each side. Suggestions? Alan Ford, Moline, IL. 309/235-4462, alanford@mchsi.com

For sale, vintage shop coat in excellent condition. Very clean. $300. Alan Ford, Moline, IL. 309/235-4462, call or text. alanford@mchsi.com.

Rear coils have been sold to Shootey for his '41.

You could be right, Dave. I checked with the people at Tanks, Inc. about this but they couldn't confirm whether it should or shouldn't for a '53 Buick, only that it doesn't. Their tanks are made in Taiwan. Hopefully, I'll get some more responses to know for sure. And I remember the sound of gas sloshing in the tank too years ago.

I recently took delivery of a new gas tank from Tanks, Inc. in Monticello, Iowa for my '53 and just out of curiosity looked inside to see what the baffles look like since their website describes them as "fully baffled". Outside of a short one at the bottom of the filler tube I don't see any other baffles including any evidence of spot welds for any I might not be able to see through the pick-up tube hole. Anybody have any knowledge of what baffles should be in a gas tank?

Thanks Buckeye2. I noted in the instructions that came with the Airtex pump that they say the same thing...mount it as close to the tank as you can.

I'm putting in an electric fuel pump in my '53 Super to avoid the excessive cranking after it's sat for a while but also for a backup if I experience vapor lock. I find that now the CRT-P60504 electric pump suggested in this thread is now no longer made according to Summit Racing so I got their recommended replacement, the Airtex 8016SX which gives 2.5 - 4 lbs. psi of pressure. I see in the shop manual that the mechanical pump puts out 4.5 - 5.5 lbs. Any opinions on whether the Airtex 8016SX pressure will not quite be enough? I'm going to bypass the mechanical pump with the electric.

rh - Sorry for the long delay in replying but my wife passed away in October and I haven't been back on the forum until now. Yes, I still have the manifold if you're still interested. Alan

Wooly15, the rest of the story is that the new speedometer cable and casing I got, I bought for my '54 Mercury, not for my '50 or '53 Buick. Seems like no one supplies a cable and casing if you have a '54 Merc with an automatic. Manual, yes, but the length is different. The folks at lincolnoldparts.com in Florida said they have an outside supplier that can make one for me and that's what I got. Hopefully they can make one up for you too if it would come to that. There are certainly a lot more parts available for old Buicks than for old Mercurys though and I'm guessing Summit just sent you the wrong one. As for the cable lubrication, I thought about the white lithium grease and ended up using the penetrating graphite oil. I hope I don't regret it. The '54 Merc dash with the "spaceship" controls is no walk in the park to get at the speedo cable connection either. Thanks to everyone for their recommendations. Alan

Dig, Yes, take out the 4 bolts and you'll find a similar fiber board behind the first. It's been a long time since I took mine out (very long term restoration) but I'm thinking the firewall opening is sandwiched between the two fiber boards. I'd have to assume that there would be a nut and washer on the backside of the second board but I don't remember specifically about that. Alan

Dig, As Ben said, it should come out with the panel. I looked at the one on my '50, which is still removed from the firewall, and see no evidence of gluing on mine. If you don't have it out already, I think you'll find it not to be a problem. Assuming that you're removing the speedometer for repair, and if you haven't already decided where to send it, I was satisfied with the speedometer repair and price for my '53 from Instrument Services, Inc. in Machesney Park, Il. 800/558-2674 for what it's worth.

Just got my question answered by scrolling down further after posting this and finding the post of December 31st by Wolly15. Should have checked other posts first. Thanks to JohnD1956 and Tinindian for their info in that post.

I bought a new speedometer cable (core and casing) and, wanting to check to make sure it's pre-lubed, I pulled the core out a little way from the top but didn't find much oily residue on my fingers even though it slid out easily. To be on the safe side, I'm going to lube it myself and have a penetrating graphite oil which is supposed to work for that but it is very thin and seems likely to just run to the bottom. What's a good lubricant for this?

The panel on the firewall is the access to the back of the instruments and you'll find easy access to the fuses also. That panel has got to be one of the greatest advancements in automotive maintenance of the dashboard. I've got a '54 Mercury also which doesn't have that panel and have spent hours contorted underneath the dash and then time at the chiropractor after.