Carsnz123

Members
  • Content Count

    133
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

22 Excellent

About Carsnz123

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/15/1996

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

734 profile views
  1. Their main issue is cracking where the hot box attaches. I need to spend some more time with the gas torch and braze up the rest of the cracks plus reinforce where the bolts go. They are very light weight things. The 4 cylinder Plymouth exhaust manifold has more mass. Interesting you mention about the original setup having individual rings. I've fitted a similar setup to vintage Rolls Royce's in the past. Bit of an ass to get them to sit in the right spot but seal very well and quite happily survive the big 7L engine backfiring.
  2. Having recently rebuilt the diff in my 1929 Plymouth i have the following words of wisdom: Yes vent the diff. I added a fitting on the main pumpkin on the opposite side of the crownwheel and put a pipe up into the car as it goes through fords at least once a year. Yes grease the wheel bearings when you install them. I've seen people shagg a new set of axle bearings as the oil does take its time getting to the axle bearings. More so with the inner seal setup Chrysler employ The fittings by the axle bearings are designed for lube to be added (cant remember if grease or thick oil. need to dig out manual.) The inner seal isn't 100% important. I omitted to fitting it due to damage in the housing from an axle breaking in the distant past. no oil gets on the bakes but it does make its way down the keyway and out the hubcap. fitting a modern lip seal to the inner will mean you have lube the axle bearings on a regular basis. The Plymouth and Chrysler Diffs use a similar setup. I've got 75W-90 in it due to there was a full bottle on the shelf in the garage.
  3. Blimey that's a long word! Anyway. I'm currently working on a 1936 Plymouth (201, 3 speed floor change) which the owner complained about it jumping out of second. Upon dismantling the transmission I've discovered the spring loaded pin which locks the retaining collar for second gear on the mainshaft managed to jump out and go through the synchronizer making a bit of a mess of things. This allowed the gear to float on the shaft resulting in a pseudo auto disengage. To make matters worse the clowns who "rebuilt" the transmission installed the thrust washers incorrectly on the layshaft and the needle rollers have been chewing out the bronze causing 10x more endfload than specified. So it basically needs another synchronizer, second gear, bearing set, and thrust washer set. things are getting a bit pricey. Not a good time. I have come across a 1939 Dodge D11 transmission for sale thats supposedly in good condition but its column change. It looks like the 1936 transmission but with a column change top rather than the floor shifter. The workshop manual I've got groups the 35 - 39 transmissions together under overhauling. Does anyone know If the D11 transmission is the same as the 36 Plymouth? Will it bolt in? Is that era of transmission pretty well all the same? Cheers Will
  4. I'm trying to get the Pontiac to run properly but I don't have any specs for it. Has anyone got information like valve clearance, ignition timing, points gap, plug gap?
  5. I always laugh at the factory torque specs for Bentley 4 1/4 engines. "An experienced technician with a 6" wrench." They're a whole lot of 5/16 studs so you don't need to crank them up much. /not very helpful in this case
  6. You are correct in saying RR and Bentley using the different style hubs (RR having a locking centre all with right hand thread and Bentley having no lock but left thread on the lead side of the car) but as far as I'm aware the wheel on the small horsepower RR cars are the same as the Bentley wheels. I'll have to check the different wheels up close at work on Monday.
  7. Companion marque. GMs "A car for every purse and purpose" scheme.
  8. They are Bentley 4 1/4 and 3 1/2 wheels (30s) I spent half of today balancing the one on my boss's MX series 4 1/4. Rolls Royce 20/25 and 25/30 also used them. The disc covers over the wires were an option. You'll note 3 domes inside for adding balance weights. A valve extension should come out the hole to inflate the tyres without removing the covers.
  9. A friend of mine is looking at buying this car. It is Registered as a 1929 Buick but I'm not so sure. He, not being schooled in the glorious ways of vintage cars, missed a few key details namely the style of the radiator. I'm wondering if it's been made up of Buick and Marquette bits as he said it has an OHV engine but internal drum brakes. It is not uncommon for cars here in NZ to be "restored" using parts from a couple different model years.
  10. As a slight giggle the "torque spec" for the 30s Bentley 3 1/2 and 4 1/4 cars is "An experienced technician with a 6 inch bar." yup, torque specs weren't really a thing in the old days.
  11. https://www.facebook.com/glen.yearbury/videos/10160287495380441/ https://www.facebook.com/glen.yearbury/videos/10160287423525441/ Dunno why these wont embed