old-tank

Radials did not improve handling or ride on my 55, but that one has rebuilt and tight suspension components. I hear that if the suspension is marginal it improves handling. Next question is how much are you going to drive it? Bias tires will go 15,000 miles, but will last 15 years. Radials will go 40,000 miles, but will start falling apart in 5-6 years. The one that I put radials on has 20,000 miles in 3 years, so I have already gotten better value.

Want to buy: 1955 Buick A-5 A/C Compressor 5441308; NOS or rebuildable used. Contact info in profile.

8523158 is the 55 number and that was the last year of that type cooler. Pictures?

Huh?

"Back to my original question.......how will it effect performance if I go with the new carb with no vacuum advance?" Poor fuel economy, engine will run hotter, less power at part throttle (WOT is unaffected). Since most vacuum advances will advance about 10* you can set the base timing an additional 10* BTDC, but that can make for hard starting and bigger load on the starter, in addition to having run-on after shutting off. Just hook the vacuum advance to any vacuum source (I never could tell any difference in performance using ported or non-ported vacuum). As tempting as it is to use a pretty new carb, it was not made for your engine and may have other issues (to be discovered). Willie

Robert Drill it yourself, hone it and move on. The only thing I would send to Hagens is a nasty-gram! Willie

Next best thing: 1955 Buick CD-ROM Repair Shop Manual I'm not trying to be mean, but if you are going to own and work on this car you NEED a manual! We are all glad to expand on and explain items covered in the manual and even go look at our cars and parts for an explanation; but we all tire of looking up stuff like this. Water pump cover: 1/4-20 = 12-15 ft lbs Timing chain cover: 5/16-18 -20-25 ft lbs Willie

If it is a 4GC for your 57 or 58 the cement for the bowl plugs is not compatible with ethanol laced fuel; they have been known to leak and start fires. Install it temporarily to be sure there are no other issues: some rebuilt carb had problems from the day they were made and will still have problems after being exchanged and rebuilt many times. Willie

p 17 of service manual

The valves need to be staked like the old ones to hold them tightly in place (super loose may indicate that you have the wrong valves). The 'bent nail' trick is to hold the arm up while attempting to attach the diaphragm...alternately you can turn the pump so that gravity keeps it in position.

Paul For driver quality plating on steel parts of the bumpers, check with some local body shops and ask where they send the truck bumpers (only things with chrome nowadays). I found one shop that agreed to act as an agent, the parts were picked up, sent to Mexico and returned with the best of any plating I previously had done. Your parts would not go to Mexico, but might go to a locale that had less taxes, regulation and mercenary spirit. Willie

There you go... actual evidence that they will work (not theory )!!

Joe, yes it is all trial and error and some cars will refuse to follow my instructions;). If you look at the carb base there are tiny jets just below the throttle plate and some just above. As the throttle plates open there will be a transition from the jets below (controlled by the idle mixture screws) to the jets above. If the jets below are too rich and it transitions to a possible leaner mixture from the jets above if will give a flat spot. If you are already lean then the transition will be smoother. Now one or both of the circuits that feed the jets above may be restricted and that will need to be remedied. See the very excellent description in the service manual. Mike (Buick5563) had a wcfb that was cleaned over and over and still had crud that needed to be removed from that area. Fiddle with it and again be sure the ignition is dead on and that the vacuum advance is working. Willie

A noted before, the continuing mechanical improvement over the 3 years makes the 56 the choice. Styling makes the 54 the choice. As with most first year cars of a new design, the look is cleaner such as the bumpers integrating with the body better (55&56 look like they are hung on as an after thought). There are a few things on the 54 that are dated like the 'sad face' headlights (53), the domed vs depressed hood center and the backup lights on the trunk. The 'waterfall grill' looks good on the 54, but has been over done and is getting boring (same with the center grill bar on Chevrolets). The fully exposed rear wheel fender effect along with the sweepspear is what makes these cars --- I have never liked fender skirts or even a half skirt effect. The best part of all 3 is sitting behind that big 'ol steering when while it is stroking down the road! My choice?...see my signature! Willie

"Basic show registration is $15.00 per entrant/family. Judged car show entry is an additional $25.00 per vehicle." ...So if you show up with a car it is $40? The registration form is not clear on this. Looking forward to the "cookies and milk" Willie

Too many times... Reset the trip odometer and fill up after every 100 miles of city driving and 150 of miles highway driving until you know what mileage to expect, then you may be able to stretch it a bit. I also check the mileage on every tank, not so I can be depressed, but to alert me to problems ( a big drop a few months ago revealed a non working vacuum advance ). Willie

That's probably the problem. Try starting like a flooded engine: slowly press accelerator to floor and start cranking. If your gas is anything like the stuff I had to use in Indiana, it will percolate at every shutdown. Vapor lock will kill an already running engine and have a resultant hard restart: in this case choking the engine will help. Willie

Joe I have 4 nailheads with the 2197s carb and the off idle stumble never goes away completely. That carb was never made to run on the swill they force to buy. Anyhow ways that I have found to improve: set the idle mixture screws as lean as possible and still have a smooth idle; set the idle speed a little higher (mine are at ~600rpm vs 450rpm); and of course be sure of all ignition components and settings. Good luck. Willie

Leave it to Mudbone to completely analyze and test those pumps! I cracked the only short pocket pump I have and it is in service with JBWeld also. That's another reason I leave the valves alone if the the pump is clean inside and if the valves are sealing --- a crusty unit is another matter. Make a tool using a nail bent at 90* to help hook the diaphragms or let gravity keep the levers in position. That hammer temptation is something I have succumbed to (too many times). Willie

likewise...

Jaybird Thanks for the clarification. Willie

My 55 would use both bezels and the nuts...I don't recognize the flat pieces. You will need to remove the top of the dash and loosen the braces that hold the pivots in place... a little tricky. Put some sealer or glue a thin gasket on the bottom of the bezels. Make your own spanner wrench to tighten the nuts. While the top is off the dash, hook up hoses to the squirters. Any new on your a/c? Willie

10/30 is probably fine for year round driving in MN. I use 20/50 Castrol (no additives) since I charge around the country in 100*+ temps with the a/c running. The Dexron mentioned is fine. Gas additives will not hurt, but being cheap I never use them . Willie

John and Evan See my website (in my signature) for details on cleaning the valley cover. After you get it back together, put a quart of oil in the filter canister with the filter, install, add 5 more quarts to the crankcase. Crank with the plugs out (after putting about a teaspoonful of transmission fluid in each cylinder) until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Install plugs and fire it up. (you of course did the ignition: new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser; rebuilt or know good carb (only filter is in the back of the the carb); before you get too far from home in hot weather you will need to install an electric fuel pump by the tank --- that car will vapor lock on the available gas. More to come... just ask. Willie

Ken-- Portland is only 2800 miles for you and 2200 miles for me...let's do it again! For that tranny leak add a bottle for STP. Mine leaked bad during the trip to Charlotte last year, added a bottle and it is still dry. Willie