old-tank

Bill Be sure that new carb is what you want before sending back the old one. As far as performance, just drive and enjoy...maybe a trip to South Bend so that some of us can enjoy also. While the compression numbers are low, you probably would not tell much difference with stock compression. And the only way to get stock compression number would be to replace the pistons with NOS Buick pistons since the available pistons are a compromise and usually lower compression; the rebuilder probably used the thicker head gaskets lowering the compression; the head may have some intake and exhaust valve seat recession making the chamber volume larger with resultant lower compression. From your previous posts I will bet that the rebuilder did not pay attention to piston design vs stock, seat recession, or what gaskets to use. Willie

Robert, Robert...you just need to talk to it. I can supply a huge vocabulary of appropriate words . Anyhow for the initial loosening and final tightening of the bleeder use a good 6-point socket...ok to use an open end wrench on the intermediate procedures. Even then you will break off the whole bleeder sometimes. Just replace the wheel cylinder since you will never find a replacement bleeder (one that fits). Willie

All of my 55's that were originally titled in Texas use the engine number as noted above. The only other number is on the top of the left rear frame rail...easy to read only if you remove the body....that number was originally stenciled on the driver side frame flat side (usually long gone). What is the style of the vin on the title...may help with location to look. Willie

Bill Can you supply a picture of that setup...trunk and interior. To enjoy that a/c, means that the rest of the car is hopefully sorted out. Willie

Page (245). You need to take a copy of this page to the alignment shop after you put it together.

Yep!...a long as I get to share the mead and grog.

Allen Wrench from the end of the pin. Should be in the service manual.

Adam We never run in caravans...just a few to a bunch of independent guerrillas. Anyhow my navigator has put together some tentative plans: Monday --- Seguin, TX to Texarkana, TX Tuesday ---Texarkana, TX to Cape Girardeau, MO Wednesday ---Cape Girardeau, MO to South Bend IN ... so there is a chance to run together for awhile...I have your cell number; let me know Willie

Double check the ignition as planned. In addition as a test run a separate ground wire from the battery to the body of the distributor (parts that are painted separately will not ground as well as parts painted after assembly). What carb does it have? Some carbs with the main jets in the bottom of bowl can have permanent or intermittent plugging of one jet causing it to run (badly) on half a carburetor --- usually not an issue with carbs with metering rods. Willie

This has been discussed before: http://forums.aaca.org/f115/zinc-motor-oil-338283.html While extra zinc will not hurt, you probably don't need it. Willie

I just wonder what the room number is...

Nice score! And that's the way to do it...buy the best example you can find. Willie

'Heartland Hooligans'...now that's a name that fits!

It is normal for the resistor to get hot with the ignition on and if the points happen to be closed, but maybe not that hot. Anyhow it is a good thing you replaced the points with 'something' since they were probably burned real bad from the shorted coil. Willie

Not a problem with a 55 dynaflow...but then again you don't have a 55 do you?

Brian The 54 version is taller, so you would not be able to use the stock air cleaner/muffler without hood interference...it also has smaller bores, so performance will probably suffer. Willie

Use this forums' search feature to find some of our previous (mis)adventures. We have not decided on departure, route, etc....but will "take off like we know what we're doing, drive like I aint't got no place to go and no hurry to get there." Willie

That ain't what you told me you were scratching .

I can give you some tips on converting that primitive thing to dynaflow.

If tightening does not fix it, remove the whole assembly to discover it broken: weld or replace. Rockauto.com has the correct part numbers for radiator hoses and belts (all GATES brand). Either buy there or use the part numbers to check locally. The original clamps were a mixture of 'tower top' and a different band clamp --- both a pain in the arsch. Only a restored car to be judged should have those stinkin' things...you have the best clamps for a driver. See my website ( http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm ) for a painless way to change hoses. Willie

There's half the name...how 'bout Noo Yawk Squadron

John That picture was taken with sun at the back of the hood in addition to flash. I have never seen points deducted for improper finish on the carb. The one in the picture was a crusty old carb that was lightly glass beaded and clear coated --- there is no trace of gold on the bowl. By the way it runs good :)Willie

My interchange source: 57 Super and Roadmaster 2dr ht and CVT only.

Joe I checked my pile of carb parts and that screened hole goes unrestricted to the throttle shaft. I checked one of my cars running and there is only a very slight vacuum detected at the screen. My guess would be that you have a worn throttle shaft and if that is the case there should be lots of play in that area. Hopefully others will chime in. Willie

Jon as usual is right on target. For what it's worth, untouched Rochesters I have seen are very heavy and definite on the gold for the cast parts; The Carters seem to have faded gold or a rainbow effect on the bowl only. (You cannot see much of it anyhow under a dark hood, with the air cleaner and muffler installed...it's going to be a driver isn't it?) Willie