48Super

Sorry, you are both correct. I misunderstood what Tom said, thinking the gasket was flipped side to side. I did have it installed incorrectly. The rear carburetor did not have the steel heat shield installed but I have the correct part for it. The intake manifold gaskets were correctly installed, my picture was a little misleading as I had wiped the surfaces a little beforehand. The #8 port was definitely different in appearance however. Thanks for the input. Hopefully, once I correct these errors, the car will run properly.

This gasket, Felpro #9803, has a gap in the area shown regardless of orientation. Looking at pictures of mounting gaskets from some other manufactures, it appears that some are made more closely to the contour of the heat crossover channel in the manifold and those might work correctly. Is a stainless gasket also needed on top of the mounting gasket to cover the crossover channel on the rear carburetor?

Thanks for the advice so far. I did some more investigating which included running the engine and measuring the temperature of the exhaust manifold ports. What I found was that the #8 port was much cooler that the others on that bank. I just wanted to verify that the cylinder was not firing at all before I got deeper in the disassembly. I removed the front carburetor and saw evidence of a vacuum leak at the mounting gasket. The manifold has no heat crossover channel for the front carburetor but the the standard mounting gaskets have a cut out for the channel. You can see in the pic

For a while now, I've been unable to get a nice idle on my '65 GS but it would run fine on the road. When I recently drove it for the first time this Spring, it ran really rough and I could tell there was a very pronounced miss. The first thing I did was to remove the plugs and right away I found the #8 plug was black with carbon as if it had not been firing. I checked the ignition wire which had OK resistance, but to be sure I installed a new wire, a new plug and spare distributor cap. I ran the engine again and I could tell there was still a miss present at all RPM's.

Sorry Tom, the were snapped up right away after I posted them.

These were on my '65 when I bought it some years back. I did not realize they were actually for a later year. My parts book lists "chrome nuts" for '65 so I assumed the original chrome nuts got shabby looking and the previous owner replaced them with these. I replaced the stainless capped nuts with a set of solid stainless ones. They are absolutely gorgeous.

Free to anyone who can use them is a complete set of 1/2-20 stainless steel capped lug nuts. These were on my '65 for many years and they are all in nice condition. I just replaced them with a beautiful new set of solid stainless lug nuts from Mitch Romanowski so these are now excess. Shipping cost will be $8.50 by USPS flat rate box. Hopefully, someone out there can give these a new home.

I'd be interested in the battery ground cable if it is in good condition.

I got my new Diamondback triple stripe tires recently and had them mounted today. I am VERY pleased with the appearance of these tires. When I ordered the tires, the guy at Diamondback told me that they are made using their Auburn brand tires which they make themselves here in the US. They really pack the tires well to protect the whitewalls and they arrived in perfect condition. The icing on the cake will be a new set of stainless acorn lug nuts I've ordered from Mitch Romanowsky, My Riviera is happy!

The problem you are having is not uncommon to the '63-'65 Riviera equipped with a tilt column. Here is a link to a thread discussing this problem in the Riviera Owners Forum here on the AACA website: Do a search on this topic here: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/73-buick-riviera/ and you'll find lots of helpful information.

Here is a picture of the "factory style" installation on my '65. The original positive battery cable is just long enough to route between the battery and the clamp hold down rod. The battery is a Walmart unit disguised as an OEM Delco using a detail kit from Weskcar.com . I think it looks pretty nice.

I'm looking for one 1967 Cadillac wheel cover in excellent condition. The one I need is the "vented" style as shown in the picture below. Thanks for your help.

For those of you who would like a low cost way to get the appearance of a vintage car battery I came across a supplier of detailing kits that let you "disguise" a modern replacement battery to achieve a more correct look. The kits come with 3-D printed plastic caps, high quality labels and even an authentically reproduced copy of the original battery warranty card. There are kits available for GM, Ford, Mopar and other battery brands. The pictures below show the kit as applied to a standard NAPA battery in my 1967 Cadillac and on typical Delco battery as used on a 63-65 Riviera. It is very sim

For those of you who would like a low cost way to get the appearance of an OEM car battery I came across a supplier of detailing kits that let you "disguise" a modern replacement battery to achieve a more correct look. The kits come with 3-D printed plastic caps, high quality labels and even an authentically reproduced copy of the original battery warranty card. There are kits available for GM, Ford, Mopar and other battery brands. The picture below shows the kit as applied to a standard NAPA battery in a 1967 Cadillac. It is very simple to remove the existing rectangular vent caps and instal

For those of you who would like a low cost way to get the appearance of an OEM car battery I came across a supplier of detailing kits that let you "disguise" a modern replacement battery to achieve a more correct look. The kits come with 3-D printed plastic caps, high quality labels and even an authentically reproduced copy of the original battery warranty card. There are kits available for GM, Ford, Mopar and other battery brands. The picture below shows the kit as applied to a standard NAPA battery in a 1967 Cadillac. It is very simple to remove the existing rectangular vent caps and instal