48Super

I don't know if this matters to you or not but the vacuum trunk release set up for a 1965 Riviera is different from that used on '63 and '64. The 1965 Riviera used a vacuum tank mounted low on the passenger side firewall to store engine-generated vacuum which was then directed by a valve in the glove box to the opening mechanism in the trunk. The picture below shows the correct valve which goes in the glove box. If you decide to go this route, you would also need to find the correct vacuum tank and run a vacuum line from the engine to the tank. The setup you have will work just fine and I am only passing along this information in case you are concerned with originality. Good luck with your installation, this is a nice feature to have.

When I changed the fuel filter, it looked like it may have been the original AC GF-149 element. The car is low mileage (45,000) and these filters haven't been made for a long time. I replaced the filter with a WIX 33039 filter which is the correct part for air conditioned cars. Although the two filters are different in construction you can tell by looking at them that they do the exact same job. Out of curiosity, I may buy a NOS GF-149 and install it to see if it helps.

I purchased this car last March and it has done this the whole time. I don't think it is a matter of heat causing the issue. My '65 Riviera has a similar fuel system and the muffler is right up against the front of the tank and it never gurgles or vents fuel. I may try blocking off the return line from the fuel filter to see what affect it has.

There is no vapor canister on this car, it has a very basic fuel system. When it spits out fuel it makes a spot about 10" in diameter on the floor.

OK, this problem isn't with my Buick but I think you folks can help. The subject car here is my 1967 Cadillac but I know many Buick models of the era used a similar fuel tank arrangement. The fuel filler pipe is located behind the license plate and comes out the rear of the tank, there is a metal vent tube located on the top front area of the tank. The vent pipe is shaped like an upside down "U" and the highest point of the "U" is 10" above the top of the tank. The problem is that immediately after shutting down the engine after a drive when the fuel level is near maximum, there is gurgling sound coming from the fuel tank and gas comes out of the tank vent. I have verified that the tank vent line, connecting hose and tank vent nipple are all clear. Also, I've installed a new correct, non-vented gas cap as the original had a leaky sealing gasket. This car has A/C so it has a fuel bypass line connecting the fuel filter and tank. Out of curiosity, I disconnected the line at the filter and attached a hose to it. I blew air into the hose (lung power only) and in a short time I heard the same gurgling sound and a small amount of fuel came out of the tank vent. Based on this result, I believe the cause of my problem has something to do with this return line. What I can't understand is how pressure is being developed in this line after the engine is shut down. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who may have solved a similar problem. Thanks!

The subject car here is a 1967 Cadillac but I know many other GM models of the era used a similar fuel tank arrangement. The problem is that immediately after shutting down the engine after a drive when the fuel level is near maximum, there is gurgling sound coming from the fuel tank and gas comes out of the tank vent. I have verified that the tank vent line, connecting hose and tank vent nipple are all clear. Also, I've installed a new correct, non-vented gas cap as the original had a leaky sealing gasket. This car has A/C so it has a fuel bypass line connecting the fuel filter and tank. Out of curiosity, I disconnected the line at the filter and attached a hose to it. I blew air into the hose (lung power only) and in a short time I heard the same gurgling sound and a small amount of fuel came out of the tank vent. Based on this result, I believe the cause of my problem has something to do with this return line. What I can't understand is how pressure is being developed in this line after the engine is shut down. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who may have solved a similar problem. Thanks!

What a coincidence, I know this car. A friend of mine purchased it at Carlisle in 1981 or so. He drove it to my home near York, PA and I worked on it for a few weeks to do some needed maintenance and have new tires installed. This car was all original and it looks virtually the same now as it did back then. I especially remember the small area worn through the driver's side running board rubber mat, my friend told me it was caused by the old lady who originally owned the car stepping on the same place every time she got in or out of the car. I do not recall the dashboard plastic being distorted back then. After I finished working on the car, I drove it without incident down to my friend's home in Maryland. Sure is nice to see it again, it brings back some good memories. Hope the car finds a good home.

I like the aluminum dryer vent hose for the fan intake and the crudely made fuel and vacuum tubing. Makes you wonder what else is part of a "total restoration"?

I gave up on trying to find a nice Buick and bought this all original, low mileage 1967 Cadillac Deville convertible instead: To find a '60 Buick Electra convertible in similar condition would be very difficult and probably would have cost a lot more. I'm pretty happy with this choice.

I also found one of the brochures on Ebay about a month ago. It was the first original one I had ever seen. There is a reprint of the images from this brochure in one of the Riviera book published back in the 80's. I never knew where the images came from until I bought the brochure. These can't be too common.

I still have these manuals to give away. If you can use them please contact me and they are yours for the cost of postage (approx. $7.00).

I still have these manuals to give away, if you can use them let me know.

I'm glad to see this rare Riviera has found a new home. Hopefully, it will get the restoration it deserves.

You may be able to disassemble your rotary vacuum switch and repair it. I recently bought a '67 Cadillac which has a very complex automatic climate control system. I spent a ton of time trying to get it to work correctly and what really did the trick was taking apart the rotary vacuum valve and resurfacing it to reduce leakage. I'm not sure if the '63 Riviera valve is similar to the Cadillac version but here is a link to a write-up on how to repair the valves: https://eldorado-seville.com/files/67acfix.php Scroll down a ways and you'll find the valve repair instructions. Hope this helps.

I need to get a set of tires balanced that are mounted on wire wheels. The mounting instructions from the manufacturer (Truespoke) are explicit in stating that the wheels must be balanced using an adapter that mounts through the lug holes, NOT the hub center hole. I have called many tire stores in my area (York, PA) and everyone says they used to have equipment with that capability but their current balancing machines do not. Does anyone know of a tire shop that is familiar with wire wheel balancing in the York, PA area? I should note that I recently purchased the car that these wheels are mounted on and noticed it seemed "jittery" when driving . I took off the wheels and found that they had NEVER been balanced when the wheels and tires were installed by the previous owner, probably because he couldn't find a shop to do it. I'm almost at the point where I want to have the tires switched over to the original rims but I hate to give up on a beautiful set of $2000 wire wheels just because no one knows how to balance them.