packick

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About packick

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  • Birthday 05/22/1947

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  1. I have always used long strips of cork/neoprene gasket material between the strap and tank, never had a problem.
  2. Jon: A couple of years ago I did a complete brake job on my 1937 120. I don't know if Packard changed the braking system and part numbers between 1937 and 1940, but here are the part numbers I used. If nothing else maybe they would be a starting point for your search. I rebuilt the right front wheel cylinder with NAPA 20 part number, and the rear wheel cylinders with Raybestos WK13 which I purchased some years ago, and the master cylinder with NAPA 2 part number. I had to purchase a new left front wheel cylinder (Kanter part no. 1.023) since the one on the car was only 1" bore rather than the required 1 1/16" bore. I also installed 3 new brake hoses (NAPA 4497): all are 17 5/8" long whereas the original fronts were only 15 1/2" long and the rear was 17 5/8". Hope this helps.
  3. For what its worth, my experience has been that a newly rebuilt engine will run hotter than normal due to the tightness of the new engine components (i.e., rings, bearings, etc.). And the fact that it heats up while driving might be because you are asking the engine to do more work under a load than at idle. This should settle down after a few hundred miles or so. Anyway, that's my 2-cents worth.
  4. There seems to be two schools of thought on how to adjust the brakes. One method is as Frank and Old-Tank describe. However, an old mechanic friend of mine swears by this method: Tighten the adjusting screw (star wheel) so that the drum can’t be moved by hand, or is an effort to move with two hands. Then loosen the adjusting screw by about 6 clicks. He claims that this is the proper setting for the brakes. There will be lots of scraping on the drum but you should be able to move the drum by hand. On one of my old cars I used Frank's method but the brake pedal went about 1/2 way to the floor before I got a solid pedal. When I used the method described above, the brake pedal only went down about 1/4 of the way. Maybe my first adjustment could have used a couple more clicks?
  5. You might be able to adjust the rod coming out of the Master Cylinder to get more brake pedal. I haven't done that on my '55 Century but I have on my other old cars.
  6. Caballero2: Good point. My assumption when Sid indicated he adjusted the brakes was that the eccentric had been adjusted too. Silly me. Also, you stated that when you adjust the eccentrics you loosen the bolt then apply the brakes to center the shoes. In my '55 shop manual, unless I misread it, it says to loosen the bolt, then tap on the backing plate with a hammer to get the shoes to center. Did Buick change the process from '55 to '57? Your method sounds more logical.
  7. Boy, does your story sound familiar! I also decided to reline the brakes on my '55 Century since they were worn. They didn't pull at all before I started the job, however after I installed the new brakes it pulled to the right on a hard stop. Easing up to a stop sign there was no pulling. I tried adjusting the brake shoes . . . that didn't fix it; I tried switching the front drums . . . that didn't fix it; I tried new brake springs . . . still no luck. I was at wits end. So I took the car to an old-time mechanic and he found the problem. It wasn't the brakes at all, it was the steering. He ended up tightening the slotted ends on the steering cross shaft (where Pittman arm attaches). The left one was off a bit. That seemed to correct most of the pulling. He told me to drive the car for a while to see if everything settles down; if not, I may need to adjust both sides on the cross shaft inward another half turn in to possibly get rid of the pulling. The Shop Manual tells how many turns to adjust the cross shaft to, but as things wear down those specs may be a bit off. Before the brake job, I had to remove the steering linkage when I installed a new rear main seal. I counted the number of turns I used to unscrew the cross shaft ends, and re-assembled it with the same number of turns . . . or so I thought. Since I did the brake job at roughly the same time I did the rear main seal, I didn't get a chance to drive the car to notice the pulling due to the steering. So I was sure it was a brake problem. Anyway, that's my brake saga. Now the car stops just fine. In fact, we took it on a 400-mile tour in the mountains last fall and the brakes performed as-advertised. Hopefully this will help your situation.
  8. I don't know much about ignition switches but had a similar problem with my '55 Century when I first got it. I would turn the ignition switch to OFF and the car would still run. I thought it was the ignition switch too but it turned out to be a frayed positive battery cable going to the starter that was shorting out on the frame. Just one strand of the wire. New wire, problem solved. Hopefully someone can debug your ignition switch.
  9. If I understand your question correctly, it looks like this when assembled:
  10. oldstyle: I believe the size of the 115 and 120 buckets are the same, but the 120s have pre-drilled slots for the chrome strip that mounts on top of them. The senior Packard buckets are much, much bigger than the junior buckets. I think they might look weird on a junior Packard (IMHO).
  11. old-tank: The NAPA Gold 1121 is what I have used for the past 8 years that I have owned my '55 Century. I have not had a problem getting them; they always seem to be on the shelf. I think, but I am not sure, this filter also has a marine application and maybe that is why they are still being produced. My NAPA guy told me that the NAPA Gold filters are made by Wix. I know I didn't answer your question but for as often as I have to change my oil filter, I have been happy with the inserts.
  12. Old-Tank: Thanks for the information. I haven't yet purchased the kit from Bob's yet so I might do as you did and buy the parts piece-meal. Thanks again. Joe
  13. I need to replace the seals and gaskets in my 1955 Century's power steering gear box. The leak is getting worse, but the power steering functionality is as-advertised, no problems. I found a rebuild kit at Bob's and was wondering if this job can be done while the gear box is still in the car, or do you have to remove it and perform the “surgery” on the bench? Either way, what tips and tricks should I be aware of? Thanks.
  14. My '55 Century is also off by 5 mph too. 65 indicated is 60 true. i think all of the old speedometers were hit-and-miss and mostly inaccurate. Of course then there is the backwoods solution. Tear a strip of duct tape, attach it to the face of the speedometer, then write the actual speeds on the tape to coincide with the needle. Problem solved.
  15. There is an ad currently on eBay for a 1937 Packard 120 Touring Sedan (1092). The ad shows a picture of the car's engine number. Any idea what the "T" means?