old-tank

It is possible, but not likely that a weight got knocked off. Your tire store may be able to check the balance, but not add required weights. Some driveshaft shops say they can balance anything. Machine shop? Hard to find but you can spin balance the wheels on the car, but would have to mark the location and leave there until worn. Willie

Made it home yesterday with no new issues on the road. However I noticed a new oil leak at the right front (I know, it's a Buick). Turns out it is the a/c compressor leaking oil. Refrigerant level was still OK, but I pumped that out today (R-12). Probably all related to the broken belt...used only one belt since I could not get a matched set of 2 so I used only one and I had to tighten that one much tighter than you should and it probably distorted the seal. Seal will get replaced when weather is cooler. Drove 2900 miles; 16.2 mpg. These meets for me just keep getting better! I noticed a few cars, but the best part was all you forum buddies and others. Willie

When I had a Rochester on one of my 55's, I was advised to lean out the idle mixture screws and it helped. I finally replaced it with a Carter because every time it dried out from disuse, a white fuzz clogged the idle and transitional circuits. Willie

Great shots, Ken! Buick always look best on the road.

Look back at my rant on post #79. We all knew it was going to be FUBAR before we got there. Everybody I know that was involved with the show worked 18 hours a day tuesday thru saturday. I drove 1300 miles and helped where I could. Sure some things were screwed up, but nobody got paid to screw it up. I had a great time and just rolled with the flow. You should not go to a national meet if you just show up and expect to be lead around by the hand. Willie

Disconnect the line at the block and substitute a gauge with numbers to verify pressures.

I saw the car and met the very pleasant lady who owned at the National meet in 1993 in Phoenix, AZ. It was awarded a Gold as a driver...I remember significant wear on the front bias tires that was out of place with the near flawless condition of the car. Thanks for sharing. Willie

How many of you Pertronix users drive road trips of 1-3K miles? vs just driving local? :eek:

Finally South Bend! Another 450 miles, but the longest day. Construction delays, broken fan belt....one of the two a/c, generator and water pump belts (why only one of 2?). No big deal to get the other belts on track, but it also tore off one of those &*%$#@*& tower top clamps (lower radiator clamp at the water pump) I did not have a radiator clamp, so I used two heater hose clamps. The gas in this area is expensive and drive-ability is is crap. It is even more volatile than south Texas: carb percolates at every stop, vapor lock without the electric pump. Party time! Willie

Now for my unsolicited rant on Pertronix: (don't put it in a 55!) There is nothing special about installing electronic ignition in a stock distributor. Maybe if you adapted an HEI to your engine you might get the advantage of the larger distributor cap, thicker wires and the ability to install plugs with a wider gap. Any ignition system, electronic or points is just a switch, with electronic only having the advantage of working at high rpm (6,000+). Also I have had some disasters with the Pertronix unit. It worked (same as stock with no increase in mpg, power or driveability) for 5,000 miles and then my rotor burned. Burned as in it literally caught fire inside the distributor and burned the tip off. The next year a friend had the exact same thing happen. Not heeding those incidents, I put the same unit in another engine with you guessed it... It seems that the carbon rod between the center and tip of a 55 rotor is what burns. Calls to Pertronix were useless, since they offered no technical support. The original instructions for wiring to the car called for bypassing the resistor on the firewall. This is supposed to result in a hotter spark if used with their 'FlameThrower' coil. Internet research showed new installation instructions: use a stock coil and don't bypass the firewall resistor. I have not tried this and you should not either just to pay for an expensive switch. Stock points/condensor will last 30,000 miles and will serve you well, just like they did when these old cars were contemporary. I would rather change them when I want to, not in the hot parking lot of a truck stop in Little Rock, AR. I still have the Pertronix and might sell it to someone I don't like, but would not sell or give to a friend. Willie

Matt Drain the torque converter too --- contact Mike if questions.

Another 450 miles, no rain, but exercised the a/c. Gas mileage without a/c 18.5; with a/c 16.5. Willie

Woody That 55 had rope seals anyhow:p.

450 miles to Texarkana, AR; 200 miles in the rain; did not need the a/c...unheard of for July in Texas.

On the road again...

From one of your other posts:"one of those Mityvac pumps" I used to have one of those also. It did not work to bleed, and even the pedal routine did not help. Out of frustration I pumped the pedal a bunch of times until I had some pedal off the floor and then pushed real hard (muttering something like 'let's where the leak is now you sorry sack of snot'). It worked to continue a successful bleed. Disclaimer: even if this works for you, this is brakes we are talking about and there is no second best thing. Hopefully your master cylinder can be rebuilt by you using a standard kit. I used to have a Mityvac: Mityvac + hammer = satisfaction. Willie

Yes...but my navigator is sometimes a different story . I'll call to finalize. Willie

Why did you have to post that? It's only 25 miles from where I live!...leaving for South Bend...:mad:

The bodies are all the same; the fuel diaphragm is the same...only from the diaphragm up is differnt; the vacuum section is the same; the arms are the same. You have enough hard parts to make 2 pumps. Willie

The generator for 55 a/c cars have a 2 groove pulley to match the 2 grooves on the a/c compressor. The only difference in the generator itself is the tag number and a more robust armature --- bearings are the same. The last big Buicks that used generators have a 45 amp matched to 45 amp voltage regulator; there were some 60 amp units used in professional cars (I have one, but cannot find a matching 60 amp regulator) The standard radiator cap in 55 is a 7# and the a/c cars use a 13#. Willie

Arschloch

Gag!

It will never be worth more unless you restore again in few years. There will be deterioration even with the best care.

Do the next test on the beach (sea level) with the highest atmospheric pressure. Put the gauge away, drive it like you stole it...if you blow it up then worry.

It was 10-15* hotter in Charlotte...even the show in Phoenix many years ago was not hotter. The beer is indoors or outdoors not matter what the temperature. After leaving 103*, 93* will feel cool. Is it global warming?? --- no, it's July!! Willie