Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

39 Excellent

About highcking

  • Rank
  • Birthday 08/13/1950

Profile Information

  • Location
    Luray, Va

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Good point! I've located the rubber spacers online. Probably two will be needed. Since the car will not be driven like a road rally car, I think the spacers will be safe to use.
  2. Rusty - Yes, the frame is 1" lower on the driver's side front than the passenger side at the same location. Rear end frame heights are very close to the same. Springs are a matched set, brand new, installed with correct rubber pads. Car was aligned after all work was done, by very competent shop. I'm going to let the best mechanic in the shop take a hard look. I'm hoping spring shims or spacers will even out the 1" difference.
  3. My current project is a ‘58 Roadmaster. Recently the car got new, correct bias ply tires, new springs, new shocks, many new front end parts, and alignment. Problem is that the front end STILL does sit level. Measured from frame to floor behind the front wheel wells, the drivers’ side sags about 1”. Several body cushions are missing, and others are badly worn. Is that the likely cause? Can shimming the drivers side spring effect a temporary improvement? Bill in Luray Va
  4. The frame height is uneven. Measured at the front where the frame is level with the floor, the drivers side is 1” lower which accounts exactly for what I see. Likely cause? Remedies?
  5. I'll do that tomorrow - I have the "frame height chart" handy from the body manual. What are the possible causes/remedies for (1) frame height left and right is the same and (2) frame height left and right is different?
  6. My 58 Roadmaster now has new, correct tires, likewise springs and shocks. Ride height is good but the driver's side slumps about one inch at the front, as measured at the top of the front wheel wells. The car is missing some body cushions which I plan to replace this spring. Is that the likely cause of this slump? From the back, the car looks level. Bill in Luray
  7. The 57 unit is the same as yours. But in 58, the sender unit was moved to the front of the tank just above the flange. This was done (so says the shop manual) so that the sender unit could be serviced without lowering the tank. But this means that the seal has to withstand continuous immersion when the tank is about 3/4 full or more, not just sloshing or occasional immersion due to car motion. I think I will switch to cork - I’ll check out the Chevy option. I think it may work.
  8. I am now almost certain that “56 Buick” has nailed the leak source. For 20 years up to 1957, Buick put the sender unit on top of the tank where it could not be a leak source. In 1958, they moved the sender to the front of the tank just above the seam. The sender is attached to the tank by five sheet metal screws that will be submerged when the tank is about 3/4 full. TERRIBLE DESIGN. It sacrifices safety for service convenience. The seal is supposed to be achieved by having the screws go through holes in a round rubber flange gasket. When I installed the sender unit in my shop, I fail
  9. Excellent advice. As a lifelong fire protection engineer I cannot agree more. Gasoline vapor is one of the most explosive mixtures known, that’s why it makes such a potent fuel for our Buick’s!
  10. To 56 Buick - the gas gauge seal is something I hadn’t even thought of, and it’s definitely a possibility. The gauge is out of sight unless the car is on the rack and it could be a leak point in a full tank! I installed the gauge in my shop before the repair shop installed the tank. It seemed pretty simple, but I was not happy about the screws penetrating the seal. I could have tested that on the bench. if we find the gauge to be the culprit, are there any suggestions for installation to get a good seal the way the gauge is designed? I know it was relocated to make it easy for mech
  11. I will get a replacement from the vendor (Fusick). I then plan to have my welder solder/braze the flange and have my shop pressure test it afterwards. That should do it. In general I agree on rebuilding vs replacement, but a 62-year-old tank isn't the same as a generator or master cylinder. I hadn't thought of the testing issue but in future I will make sure to test before installing.
  12. I'm not a welder, but in good light the weld looks like a common zipper. I believe it's leaking at the front and dripping towards the rear -- can't see the front at all. It has to be the seam somewhere because it leaked no gas with 3-4 gallons in the tank and leaks steadily along the top of the flange with a full tank. My local repair shop works on all kinds of big trucks and the manager said they're experienced at pressure and vacuum testing tanks for leaks. I like the brazing idea - I have an excellent local welder who could braze the seam of the replacement tank.
  13. Very good suggestions on testing. If the vendor provides a new tank, I can test as you suggest. I have a sniffer that could check for escaping fumes with the lines capped off. I also have a vacuum tester. I never thought to leak test a new tank - I’d assumed the vendor would do that.
  14. Thanks for all the replies. The vendor has agreed to swap the tank, though I doubt it will be tested first. I’ll get to eat the labor cost, of course.
  15. This week I had a brand new fuel tank ($500 with shipping) installed in my 1958 Roadmaster Buick. [Tank vendor name available on request - one of the "big" companies offering parts for Buick and Olds.] It was a good fit, no installation issues. The shop added a gallon of so of gas and then I drove to the gas station and filled it up to full. When I got home I parked it on a concrete pad for a few hours, and when I came back I saw a large wet spot under the left rear of the car near the exhaust pipe. The spot smelled of gasoline. Looking underneath, I saw that the new fuel tank was leaking stea
  • Create New...