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About highcking

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  1. John - I got my car back from the shop and will now return to the visor issue. I've been studying the situation and conclude that the little screw doesn't work for a particular reason. At least on my car, the screw goes through a "neck" in the shaft that inserts into the mount. That arrangement prevents the visor from coming out of the mount, AND it can exert friction on the shaft provided the "neck" on the shaft hasn't worn down. The screw alone can't exert any compressive force on the arm -- the screw head bottoms out and that's it. However, by running a longer screw into an acorn nut, you C
  2. Yes, the upholstery guy covered everything. I can locate the holes, but lining them up with what they go into is a nightmare. You can’t see into that area very well. In some cases, the hole in the trim did not line up with a hole in the pad.
  3. To be honest I’ve never checked thoroughly. But there are no signs of a swap and the GR gear is there on the column. I’ve had it off the road for almost 5 years but next week that will change.
  4. Several have requested pictures. Happy to oblige. A little bit more work needed in the interior, then some mechanical work (brakes, front end, etc.). Probably fresh tires, and the wheels need powdercoating (red). One to two months to finish and drive on the interstate. I hope to drive this car to next year's National in Concord, NC. Bill in Virginia
  5. Common pattern with no serious bidders. No one of the bidding group want to cross $10,000 for fear it's the reserve. It's not - probably close to $14,000. Snipe bidders are in the wings.
  6. I agree with these notes on the triple turbine. It was terribly costly to build and extremely difficult to repair. Having now owned two 58 Roadmasters, I can say that it’s by far the best of the Dynaflows for performance. Once I tested the Grade Retard function going down a Steep mountain in Virginia. It performed just as promised, held the speed to 20-25 all the way down. I never touched the brake pedal.
  7. Thanks for sending! What a lovely car in a great setting. I live on a farm in rural Virginia, looks very much the same. I see the seatbelts. Any recollection on how those were installed? The front seat has no pass-through between the bottom and the back, making it quite a challenge. One I haven’t solved yet.
  8. I am just now finishing what I might call a "rework" of previous partial restorations of a Laurel Mist '58 Roadmaster. Mechanical and electrical stuff is much the same as a '50s car, except for a lot of extra power doodads. NOS parts are available. I fixed everything (even the groaning 6-way power seat!) but passed on the power antenna. $1200 for a rebuild, too much. I installed an old-manual antenna. The engine and transmission were OK before I started work. WARNING: the Roadmaster will have the amazing FlightPitch Dynaflow, a terrific and sturdy triple turbine drive unit. BUT... it is probab
  9. Folks - I am marching the last few miles reassembling my Buick's interior, which I removed over four years ago. I have the dash all put together except for the three black-painted pieces that cover the gap between the windshield and the dash pad. The pieces that came with the car (much worked over, alas) do not seem to fit together and trim screws don't seem to find any holes! An example is the two curved side pieces--they have a screw hole about in the middle. But there is nothing at that location to hold a screw. The long center piece has three holes, one in the center and two others equally
  10. Dave - many thanks for that information. When I have a few other things finished on the car, I'll pull the wheel and send it along. I didn't know that was how the origibal color was determined, but it makes sense. Roadmaster 75 - love to have the pictures. I'm working with a car that had already been "restored" so determining original features is tough on anything. My plan was to attend the Buick National this summer and look at some correct cars...but that didn't work out. Bill
  11. John - yes, quite different at least in the Roadmaster. Visors are long and heavy, lots of upholstery, and the bracket design is different too. The screw you picture generally does the job, but not on my 58. That screw which is very tiny, maybe a #6, simply engages and indentation in the shaft. Still exploring ...
  12. Visors on my car will not stay up. There are three possibilities for the needed friction: 1) Little screw in the visor bracket? No - this screw simply engages an indentation in the arm so the visor stays in the bracket. 2) The grommets that snap into the mirror bracket? Possible. My grommets are there (sort of tan-colored barrels) and snap in firmly. Rather smooth in texture though. 3) A nylon sleeve in the visor bracket? Doesn't seem likely and none are advertised for sale before about 1960 or 61. Advice? Bill in Luray
  13. I'll give it another try tomorrow.
  14. I tried the "fish it through" method using a piece of rope tied through the anchor hole. The rope by itself, being soft and flexible, managed to work its way over the steel frame and out the back enough so I could snag it. Pulling the end of the belt through that way proved to be another story. It's not easy to describe ... the metal anchor can't go straight through, it has to go up over the steel brace and then down through a narrow slot. But that presumes that you can do all that maneuvering with your hand squished between the back and the bench and various springs. My hand won't bend in th
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