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About highcking

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  • Birthday 08/13/1950

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    Luray, Va

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  1. John - my Roadmaster is ready for the road too. Speaking of speedos - I tested my Bob’s rebuild the other day against a GPS speedo. Oddly enough, it reads a full 5 mph LOW. I forgot to test the Speedminder which is set at 65 and the country road I was on is strictly 55. I’m running with correct bias ply tires.
  2. Follow up on the wipers. The Product Service Bulletins pointed me in the right general direction - the assembly outside the body. Turns out the spanner nut holding down the cam assembly was not tightened down. The wiper blade rides on the cam and the looseness allowed it to wobble. That effect is transmitted to the cable mechanism. I don’t think the cam business was one of Buick’s better ideas.
  3. I will try that! My shop floor seems to be level but your test is a good one.
  4. Hah. Made in Taiwan. I've confirmed it's 10-24. But at least one of the gauge installation kits (gasket and screws) I have is 10-32. I curse not having kept the old tank. The "manufacturer" should either supply screws or put a label on the tank!
  5. Robin - that thought has occurred to me as well. No screws were provided with the tank. Not easy to check as I have no metric screw assortments around. I'll either have to buy a set or haul the whole tank into the hardware store! It would be a terrible thing for Fusick parts to do - but I can't rule it out. Bill
  6. He’s an excellent and experienced mechanic, but naturally doesn’t encounter 1958 Buick Roadmasters every day. Whatever we agree on to do, he does it very professionally for sure.
  7. Extremely helpful, thanks. I’ll follow up tomorrow with those ideas.
  8. No, the Taiwan tank from Fusick does not come with screws. They seem to be 10-32 but I’d think they should just turn all the way with slowly increasing drag.
  9. Rusty - yes, the rear is uneven too, about 3/4” low on the drivers side. I also noticed that one of the old rear springs (not yet recycled!) had a rubber spacer stuck on the bottom. Is a spacer both front and rear on the drivers side the best way to go? Bill
  10. Question on the machine screws holding the fuel gauge to the tank. I have a replacement tank and gauge. I plan to leak test the tank and gauge before installing on the car. I tried running each of the gauge screws into the threaded holes in the tank, using fingers only. What I generally found is that the screw would go in easily for a few turns and then balk. Going further would have required screwdriver torque. Is that the way it’s supposed to be? I’m certain that damaging the threads would guarantee a leak for sure. Bill in Luray
  11. Old-tank, No, the left front sagged from the start. I assumed it was a very weak or broken spring. The removed springs were all intact but probably dated to 1959.
  12. I will check that. By appearance the rear looks level but I’ll measure at the frame.
  13. Good point! I've located the rubber spacers online. Probably two will be needed. Since the car will not be driven like a road rally car, I think the spacers will be safe to use.
  14. Rusty - Yes, the frame is 1" lower on the driver's side front than the passenger side at the same location. Rear end frame heights are very close to the same. Springs are a matched set, brand new, installed with correct rubber pads. Car was aligned after all work was done, by very competent shop. I'm going to let the best mechanic in the shop take a hard look. I'm hoping spring shims or spacers will even out the 1" difference.
  15. My current project is a ‘58 Roadmaster. Recently the car got new, correct bias ply tires, new springs, new shocks, many new front end parts, and alignment. Problem is that the front end STILL does sit level. Measured from frame to floor behind the front wheel wells, the drivers’ side sags about 1”. Several body cushions are missing, and others are badly worn. Is that the likely cause? Can shimming the drivers side spring effect a temporary improvement? Bill in Luray Va
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