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Showing results for tags 'straight eight'.
Found 13 results
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I need help locating a complete engine for a 1929/'30 Blackhawk Boattail Speedster, Straight Eight. If you have something please let me know.
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I've looked around and heard that while not as powerful as a Buick straight 8, the Pontiac straight 8 is quite reliable. But I've heard a couple of people tell 'horror' stories about pistons splitting in two on the 268 of the 1950s. But is this a common problem with the Pontiac 248 straight 8 as well? Are there any problems that the 248 is prone to having? Thanks in advance.
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Hi, Is there any body out there that can help my dad with a hood latch (top section) (the claw) for his 1932 Dodge DK 8? He lost it when out driving and cant locate it
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This can be found at the site of the old Western Mine in Ida Canyon in the Huachuca Mountains of southern Arizona. The car appears to have been cut down and transported to the mine site, where the engine was jury-rigged to a winch to power a cable hoist for ore cars. Though the design of the radiator shell (missing its badge) is distinctive, I haven't been able to identify it via image searches. There is a strip of chrome trim at the back of the hood. The engine is an inline eight, and the spark plugs are clustered rather than evenly spaced, as follows: xx xx xx xx The mine was sporadically active during the 1900-1920 period and perhaps a little beyond... Anyone recognize the radiator shell? Thanks in advance, Joe S.
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OK, So my buick does not like to start up when shes hot. She cranks fine but will not fire. When cold it will fire in about 3 cranks. It will also start fine if shut down and then restart within a few minutes. However if i let it sit about 5 to 10 minutes i will have to wait an hour before i am motoring again. Here is a list of new parts and motor condition, brand new rings and rod bearings new battery new 00 cables new starter new pertronix flame thrower 2 coil new points new condenser new plugs new wires (solid coppers) rebuilt carb new valve job and guides 160 high flow stat new radiator factory exhaust and intake heat riser valve is stuck in the full bypass postion Stock mechanical fuel pump, tank and fuel lines. thick 1 inch carb spacer Timing is slightly more advanced than factory specs, car runs on the road great and doesn't ping under load. I set the choke at cold (75 ambient air temp) to just close the choke valve and it runs smooth until the choke is opened fully by the bi metal. Around 1 1/2 turns out from soft seat on the idle adjust screws. I am running ethanol gas and wonder if i am having fuel percolation problems. I also very slowly push the gas pedal to full open on hot start. Any ideas???
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Finally got her going for the first time since 1993 1952 Buick special straight eight - YouTube Got some tweaking to do.
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Alright.. almost can't believe it was this easy and simple..but if anyone has been following my posts, my 1949 Roadmaster was having problems starting/battery draining. Well, I ordered NEW battery cables from YNZ, and..... VOILA! Not sure if it was my positive cable, or my braided negative cable, but the ol' lady fired right up with absolutely NO hesitation!!! Now that I have a brand new braided negative cable, I can actually see how bad/old my old one was.. wow. In the meantime while waiting for the cables to arrive, I had also removed as many ground locations I could find/think of, and cleaned them up. I CAN NOT express how important it is to have CLEAN grounding locations, and good/proper battery cables! I know this from trial and error now! Ok.. Now, since the new battery cables did their jobs, when I fired her up I noticed something really weird. I am not sure if it is because she is getting all the juices she needs from the battery, but now I have a weird "HISSING" sound emanating from underneath her dash. It seems to be coming from near the steering column area, under the dash. I have absolutely NO idea what this is. Can it possibly be the defrost??? All of my push/pull levers are in the "off" position.. So, does ANYONE know what this "hissing" noise could be??? Is this a really BAD thing? Or is this something that can be fixed as simple as putting in my new battery cables were? Has anyone ever had this happen to their cars?? ANY input is welcome! Jerry Case 1949 Buick Roadmaster 4 Door
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Hey hey.. here is a short video I took of my 1949 Buick Roadmaster 4door that I have recently purchased about a month ago. I am currently trying to bring her up back to par engine/electrical-wise.. I am planning on keeping this vehicle stock, and true to form (no modern "updates.")... I'm sure some of you have been following my madness through my posts. This video was shot right after I had cleaned all my ground connections within the engine area, and recharged my battery. Just a little something fun to watch! Here is the link to YouTube.. 1949 Buick Roadmaster - YouTube Jerry 1949 Buick Roadmaster 4 Door
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Hello. Been reading for the past few months a whole lot about classic Buicks on this site.. I just recently (last saturday) purchased my first car (I've only owned trucks my whole life), and my first car is a 1949 Buick Roadmaster (4 Door, Black exterior)!! I was hoping that perhaps someone on this site may have history about my vehicle.. I purchased my Buick from a consignment dealer in San Juan Capistrano California. Apparently the owner stated that he bought the vehicle about 3 years ago from the original owner in the mid-west. Pretty clean car, just need some minor work. I am in love with my Buick and I want to find out anything I can about it's past! My vin on the door pillar is 55259761 (the "1" looks more like the letter "I" though). Fisher plate states style# 49-4769, Body# BW3528, Trim# 70, Paint# 01 (not sure about this paint number since my vehicle is black and on all the paint codes for '49, I don't see black listed).. there is also the letters "acc" under the paint#. My dashboard is a two-tone dark green/greyish color (I thought the dash colors didn't really make sense with the Black exterior. Well, if anyone knew this car or it's owner before, do tell! Currently needing to replace heater, vent/heater hoses, and repair my Sonamatic! Planning on restoring it to it's original glory!
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Dumb question but I need to know where to fill/add oil into my '49 roadmaster engine.. I also need to know where to fill/add transmission fluid. My manual says the transmission fluid dipstick is located under the floor mat of the front passenger area.. I don't want to rip up anything. I also found a dipstick located in front of the passenger firewall (could this be for the transmission fluid??), and it is bone dry. Any help is very appreciated! Jerry -
I have been spraying the shaft on my manifold heat valve for two days with PB Blaster to "unfreeze" it, tapping it with a hammer, and still no luck. Here's my dilemma now.. Last night I broke off the "weight" end of the heat valve near the retractable spring by my constant attempts at freeing up the frozen shaft.. The square object/weight is now going to be permanently frozen. It is stuck pointing near (sitting right next to) the manifold.. My question is, will this be a major problem for my engine?? I can not find a manifold heat valve to purchase anywhere for replacement. Can this valve be bypassed? Is mine stuck in the "BAD" position??? Since I live in Southern California, the lowest temps we get are usually only in the low 40's. I am hoping to hear back from somebody to help ease my worries! Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
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Hello, My 1949 Buick Super 248 straight eight (Dynaflow) recently started lacking power…a lot of power. For example going up slight grades at only 35-40mph. I’ve rebuilt the carburetor, put in new plugs, wires, coil, points, condenser, checked the fuel filter and pump. Even hooked up an aux 6volt electric pump…NO CHANGE. Still has lost most of it’s power. Runs fine at idle no miss or erratic idle. When driving it cruses a long fine, but when you put the peddle down to the floor, the engine bogs down and if you take you foot up a little, it seems to get more power. I drive this car about 50mph on a level highway and when I encounter a small hill, I lose so much power. Any ideas? I’ve even checked the values to make sure they were not hanging up. I do want to add though, that at idle, the engine starts develop blue smoke and when you race it, there is a cloud. Does not smoke when driving. Thanks Robert
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Hi everyone I,m just the new kid on the block when it comes to restoring the classic cars. I think I picked a good one for the first one a 1934 buick sr.40 club sedan. It looks like all the parts are there and then some. It has the original 233 straight eight with 76,000 mi unfortunatly the timing chain was so worn it bent three push rods. Thats where I need some help. I'm looking for anybody who could point me in the right direction in rebuilding her. Thanks for the help anything is appreciated.
