old-tank

Terrill Machine found some NORS intakes. I used some saved 56 tulip head exhaust valves (might lower the compression a little, but after a little carbon build up...) It's been 3 weeks...can't believe how patient I have been (NOT!)

Who's the new owner?

...yeah, and bring a jack, jackstands and creeper so I can inspect your work .

John, the valves are used and have already been fitted to seat that had some recession, necessitating grinding the stem which is now too short. GM part numbers: Group 0.296 1165514 intake Group 0.297 1166463 exhaust 264 heads are the same...all 55 heads are the same and are interchangeable side to side. Willie

Yes, John I need some --- machine shop called a said most stems are too short for the chosen head...not gonna recess the seats to fit the valves. Part numbers: Intake: Sealed Power V1268 or Dana 2113233 Exhaust: Sealed Power V1233 or Dana 2113234 Thanks

All of the usual big suppliers sell "Pacific rim" parts for $15-25 each...and they are junk! NOS or period NORS or even good used that have not had the stem or face ground down are preferred. Willie

I have no idea if painted or not, but if painted it may have been like the nice semigloss paint on a NOS transmission heat exchanger/cooler. Just the little dribble of tranny fluid during installation took the paint off where it touched and then cleaning with mineral spirits removed the rest of the paint. Eastwood clear, unless recently improved has been disappointing in durability. Another product that looks identical to freshly blasted steel and is durable is: duplicolor fb106 gray bumper coating. Willie

Now that's what I think of when they say 'heavy metal' band! Enjoy!

Alternator?! Now he tells us! There are threads on using a 3 wire alternator in early Buicks to work with the carb switch start feature...I'll search tomorrow if you cannot find. (Unless you have added a lot of high drain items, the stock charging system is more than adequate.) Willie

As noted, removing the starter is the easy part. I would not even consider doing it 'lizard style' (cardboard or creeper)! A lift or service pit or some of Shadetree's stands so that you can sit under the car is a must. I will try to get buick5563 to detail the procedure and proper tool for the job on a nailhead. Willie

I hate intermittent problems. Unless it dies an stays dead it is hard to find. In the meantime check all connections (especially at the battery, voltage regulator, terminal block, etc) and grounds (there should be a ground from the engine to body...my 55 has one at the transmission filler to the firewall). It could be a completely open connection or a a dead short. The last one of mine that did this died mostly on right hand turns...the problem was the starter splash pan shorting to the largest cable on the solenoid. Willie

A new one would be best. Before new ones were available for my 55's I could get them to perform as intended unless completely dead: file the contacts with a point file; there will usually be excessive resistance between the lower contact and the terminal shown over your thumb...replace rivets or sometime just hitting the edge of the rivet with a center punch. A new one would be best. Willie

What did you buy?

gm 1116895 Available for $90-150 (yikes!)...other units in Group no. 13.095 probably could be adapted.

More TUBA!

No foundry available, so I stuffed the intake with aluminum foil, and just to make sure: steel washers and steel pop-rivets. Willie

After getting one of mine freed using a similar phosphoric acid soak, I ended up with a very loose shaft that leaked . After that I just cut the butterfly out. You don't need it unless you drive short trips in cold weather and probably not then with todays' available highly volatile fuel. Willie

I had to replace a cylinder head on my cross country driver due to a small leak in the combustion chamber (Leaked at an exhaust valve seat that was replaced at rebuild --- long story of a totally dishonest and incompetent machinist and also another example of why exhaust seat inserts can give problems). Anyhow the inspection: after 80,000 miles the cylinder walls still had hone marks and the cam and lifters were absolutely pristine! There was no sludge in the depressions and only a slight brown stain on shiny metal like the rocker shafts. This car is driven hard: 65-75 mph cruising, usually in the summer with a/c running and engine temperatures between 190 and 220+. Oil is changed at 3-5K miles...Castrol 20w-50. Piston rings were premium moly rings. (tip: this is the same ring set used on Ford, GM, and Chrysler engines with a 4" bore) Engine was assembled with recommended cam lube and only GM EOS added to the initial oil. My conclusion: you don't need to add no stinkin' zinc to the oil on a 322 nailhead; modern moly rings will do the job and are easy on the cylinder walls; the cylinder heads on a 322 nailhead are much heavier than they used to be...one heavy &*^%$#@&^! Willie

Probably will not work, since 55 Special is not listed in vehicle applications. I found some 55 Special rear shoes, suitable for core/rebuilding. PM me if interested. Willie

The rear shoes are 12 x 1.75. Bob's Automobilia should have them, but they usually have a core charge

Suggestion: stay out of the additive isle at the parts store. The hesitation is probably related to the ethanol laced available fuel.

Bob You need to duplicate the resistance supplied by the bellows to make it turn on and off. I used an old brake shoe hold down spring, cut in half in the middle of the coils. On mine the part that goes over the old bellows has a hole --- here I put a small washer and machine screw to stabilize and center the spring. It turns on and off and the flow can still be sorta regulated, but will not hold a constant temperature like the bellows equipped one did ( how many of those things actually did that? ). Most rebuilders will junk it or send it back as un-rebuildable. It is good to see someone buy a $9 seal and repair their own...keep it up! Willie

Hope you enjoyed that gas, since you can't put it back . I have repaired a few to function substituting a spring in place of the bellows...details on request. Willie

Paul, you will see where the exhaust goes when you get it off. The paint burning is probably not an issue unless you do summer driving at 70 mph for 10 hours a day. Bernie, do you remember if that fix lasted (again, 70 mph for 10 hours a day)? Believe it or not it is even too cold here with temps in the 30's (*F) to tinker. Willie

If those brake shoes are riveted and not contaminated, they are probably better than currently produced off the shelf shoes available now. Old bonded shoes should be tossed. Willie