beerczar1976

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About beerczar1976

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  • Birthday 10/15/1976

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  1. Agree, start with cable. Found out mine didn't work due to the internal cable that's inside the outer jacket snapped at some point and had turned itself into an octopus...It was pretty jammed inside the housing. Replaced internal cable and sent out head for servicing. Biggest thing to remember is to cut the new cable to exactly as close as possible to what the shop manual calls for, otherwise new cable will tend to "whip" inside the housing causing a ticking sound, or worse, binding. Lubricate cable as recommended, which is coating only the lower end of the cable; lubing all the way to the top will cause the grease to work itself back up inside the head of the speedometer. I'd see if you can get by with a new cable first as the speedo servicing is not exactly cheap. I sent my out to a shop in Michigan, Bob's Speedometer Service, if I recall.
  2. The "el" bracket on mine had been lost to time as well. Went to hardware store, found a couple different length that I though might have worked (they come in a 2 or 3 pack), and then drilled the hole bigger to accept the flange bolt. Trickiest was finding a bracket long enough on the bottom side to clear the edge of the flange, but wasn't too long that would allow for the spring to attach. All that spring is meant for is to keep the butterfly valve in the heat riser from flapping when it's been totally freed up/working properly.
  3. If your heat riser manifold valve is still stuck, try using the specifically formulated AC-Delco Heat Riser Valve lubricant. Comes in a spray can. The lube is in a foam consistency when applied. Spray it on both ends of the shaft that come thru the cast iron heater box and let it soak in. As you're able to get it to budge, keep applying and tap the shaft so it slides in and out of the box; this will eventually work the lube into the bearings that are cast into the box and will/should, after some time, free the butterfly valve back up. Be patient, and don't try to muscle it too much. The arm with the counterweight is somewhat easy to bend out of shape.
  4. I've had success finding the glass fuses individually at very well stocked hardware stores. While we were living in VA a local store had pretty much all the fuses and small bulbs I needed, but they were often found in different aisles. Check beyond automotive in the Electrical aisle, the aisle with Appliance parts, etc. The store had the bins in a couple different spots, each seemingly with different sizes and styles of fuses...
  5. I agree with Bloo. I used the AC-Delco version of the heat riser solvent off of Amazon. Sure enough after a couple days of spraying and repeated tapping from both ends of the shaft, mine freed up. You're probably in a better spot that me, as mine was still mounted on the car. At least you'll be able to spray down the insides of the valve as well. I basically spray some of the solvent on the shaft on the valve every so often now and work it back and forth to keep the bearings lubricated and freed up.
  6. Looking for replacement Windshield Outer (chrome/stainless) and Interior (painted steel) Center Division Moldings for a 1950 Special. Mine had been drilled at some time prior to my ownership for a sunvisor that was added to the car. I have the visor, but I think it's missing some of the mounting hardware; never got around to trying to piece it back together. Going to forgo re-installation for now. I can live with the extra holes on the interior center molding, but would prefer a clean exterior piece if I can find one.
  7. Other than Park basically not holding, Dynaflow is working fine. Plan on bringing it into shop this fall to service rear axle leaks, and since will be pulled apart, will have them check torque tube for leaks. Again, as all of this going to be apart, want to get Park working again. I've tried adjusting shift linkage already, so it's got to be internal. Does the whole rear bearing retainer at tail end of tranny need to be removed for access to Park Pawl and it's levers, rods, spring, etc., or is there enough access with torque ball and u-joint removed? Manuals don't really give a clear run-down on that. Dynaflow Drive Manual shows all the Park stuff being rebuilt with Rear Bearing Retainer off. Shop Manual kinda skins over it. Looks like removing Rear Bearing Retainer requires some other internals get pulled apart in addition to requiring supporting transmission since retainer has thrust plate and support pad installed on it and removing transmission oil pan...
  8. Good to know. The shop I checked in with does full classic auto restorations, service, sales, etc.
  9. Anyone have access to a 1950 Flat Rate Manual? Trailered my '50 Special up to our new address in CT from VA yesterday. Driver's side rear axle seal is leaking. I think it was before, but now it's flowing pretty good; small puddle on u-haul ramp. I'm thinking, as with so many others, torque ball seal is flowing tranny fluid to rear diff. via driveshaft, overfilling it, and now it leaks. The diff. always had a drip going on as well. So back to question. I probably won't be tackling these items myself. For an experienced shop to do it, how many hours should be realistic to budget for? Parts kits are available, so that shouldn't be a real worry.
  10. Referring to Post# 115. My '50 Special also has plastic turn signal lenses up front and glass in the rear. My thought would be susceptibility of glass up front to rock damage, so Buick/Guide was smart enough to spec. plastic...
  11. Agree with Ben Bruce. Nuts for rear belt molding can be accessed from inside trunk; lay on your back inside trunk and look up on bottom side of area at base of window. Likewise, same deal for belt molding at base of windshield. Look for nuts underdash at base of cowl area. Both front and rear moldings may have small Philips-head screws at on the door frame ends of the piece as well. Recommend wearing a headlamp and probably having an extension socket available. If original wiring, plan on maybe wearing a dust mask and goggles. That old fabric-covered wiring likes to rain all sorts of dust and crap in your eyes, nose, and mouth...Nuts may not need to be entirely removed. I've sometimes had success in loosening to nearly the last couple threads. This should allow you to pull molding out and away from body. You can then try to slide molding off the retainer clips. Take your time, there will probably be rust and crud build-up on the backside of the molding's track. They may take a bit of finagling since the moldings are hockey-stick shaped. After removal, I usually wire brush them out, and maybe apply a bit of WD-40 or other type of lubricant that will dissipate once dry after the molding is back in place.
  12. Ben, do you know if they do the A-Pillar body tags too? Pretty sure mine was removed by prior owner when repainted. Is the body# the same # as stamped on the frame? I've yet to have ever have seen that number, but if memory serves, prior owner found it and that's the number they used for Titling the car in Mass.
  13. Good note...as you mentioned "unwind" when hot...I'm wondering if the thermostat coil that's on there now may also be on backwards. I think when I swing the arm to the hot/open position, the coil tightens vice unwind.
  14. Thanks. That's basically what I tried experimenting with this weekend. Not quite there. A 3/4"x3/4" L was too short to clear lip of flange. The 1"x1" L was about right for clearance, however, I think it's too tall. I tried to bend it outward (towards the cowl). It give a good spring tension to the Off position, but none when Closed (cold). Also caused it to kind of bind some halfway thru the swing. I believe manual lists same tension in both directions. Based on line drawings (which there are very few of in the Shop and Parts Manuals that show this part), I'm thinking original bracket may have been 1" left to right and 3/4" tall. I may try to bend the 1" back to vertical and put a downward bend into it to try to reduce the height some but retain the 90-degree L-shape. I'll let you know what I can get...Will also make sure that the spring end of the swing arm hasn't been straightened or bent out of shape at some point either.