old-tank

That compressor appears to be a GM A-5 which I have rebuilt; hoses can be duplicated...that unit can be revived. Willie

Don't worry about the 'correct' Dover White. Every supplier will have a different shade anyhow. Have some white mixed that YOU like and complements the other color of the car. I have 3 55's that have Dover White. On the convertible with Cherokee Red, the white is a definite yellowish cream and complements the red, but would look nasty next to Cadet Blue or Gulf Turquoise...the last 2 are a bit brighter with a hint of blue or green respectively. Willie

Nice find and a good starting point. The car is 58 years old, has been 'stored' for 30 years, meaning it had been on the road for 28 years --- plenty of time for wear and problems. It was 'driven into storage'...was that after a successful cross country trip or did it just limp in ( there is usually a reason a car was taken off the road ). Price? Start at $1500 and assume everything needs to be repaired or restored. Willie

The Sears Allstate unit I had in my first 55 cooled much better that the contemporary factory air jobs. They used R-12 refrigerant (=$$$$) and there is not much support for rebuilding those old York/Tecumseh compressors. For less than $1000 you can replace with modern components that will freeze you out. The good thing about one of those with an existing unit, you will not have to look for pulleys and compressor mounts. Willie

Roach?...looks like something that should be stepped on.

The 10" clutch is the big problem...the flywheel and pressure plate appear to be for a 9.5" clutch.

Paul, I just did this when I replaced the cylinder head on mine. If I remember correctly, I just rested mine on the rear intake port area of the passenger side head while working on it and it just fell back into place. You may have to remove the valley cover and distributor to get it out of the apparent bind. Those pipes have never been easy: the pipe on my 2 parts cars are beat up on the curve by a hammer. Willie

Good job Mark! Count me in.

Should be a v-12, with the exhaust manifolds on the bottom like the other Ford v-8's....looks like a Cadillac engine. Willie

Joe, It is probably some crud that got dislodged during R&R, Just be sure it is not binding. Loosen the steering gear at the frame and at the bottom of dash; verify free up and down movement, then tighten at bottom of dash and then at the frame. Willie

John pretty well nailed the procedure. Have someone in the car cranking as normal with the 6v only; then apply the 12v only while the engine is cranking. Avoid sparks around the batteries. The total voltage in the system while 12v is applied is probably not over 8v due to the drop through the jumper cables (which will get warm). Disconnecting the voltage regulator probably is not necessary and may disable the starting circuit. The 12v battery should be on the ground and not in a modern car which may be damaged. Think this through and if uncomfortable doing it, don't do it. Willie

GreenHD I would like to see the car again. Why not bring it to the spring get-together of the Texas Buick Club Chapters: http://forums.aaca.org/f115/bluebonnet-tour-april-4-6-bastrop-366920.html. While not a 'concours' show, you will get a chance to see what some original ones look like as well as what we have 'personalized'. Willie

On a 55 if you modify the original be sure your new assembly is not higher than the original...there is very little clearance under the hood. On the original oil bath, the mesh should not need to be cleaned. I just keep the oil level up and change when there is a lot of dirt in the bottom. That oil bath filter is superior to any paper filter...that's why off road equipment still uses them. Willie

That rebuilt engine may be just too tight for even the best battery and starter. Two tricks I have used: 1) Apply 12v + through jumper cables at the starter only while cranking as a boost --- requires a competent helper; 2) If a standard transmission pull the spark plugs and tow it around the block a few times to loosen it up...just don't get desperate and try to start it by towing . Willie

He's still trying to get those *&^%$# wire wheels back on! :mad:Hint: make some guide pins (9/16-18). Willie

Fill with fluid and bleed the brakes with the engine off (it's time to flush the old fluid out anyhow). The boot on a 55 needs to be vented (yours may be the same); remove the boot as a test if new fluid does not help. Willie

YUP!

...even you forgot about the 55 wagons...:cool:

I too have seen NOS units already splitting like that...don't use it. Make it from a plumbing fitting or see my website for Jaybird's method. Willie

I think John was talking about an old suggestion to turn the heater and fans on high if the car is overheating...at this point you are in deep dung and it has never worked for me .

Check the condition of the transmission mount, thrust pad and engine mounts, then adjust the shift linkage as outlined in the shop manual. Willie

Party pooper, killjoy, spoilsport, wet blanket...

http://www.turbinecar.com/tires.htm The last table gives the dimensions of your choices. If the these are used tires, get the date code. Even though bias ply age more gracefully than radials, there is a limit on serviceability, especially if they have been mounted and the car sat for prolonged periods. Willie

Added flier and registration to post #1

Looks like the February Bugle is there also....