old-tank

Mike, Now you really need to concentrate on and remember the nice people like Randy and his family instead of the jerks you will surely encounter. I was glad that Randy found you. My nightmare was recommending that 'other' shop to Randy in the first place. The best thing is that the car was out of that shop even though it was neither safe nor dependable (forgot about 'correct'); but it is now!! Before Mike let the car go, he drove 60 miles to my shop to pick up some used carburetor parts (Rochester 4GC) to get it running right even though that was not in the estimate or charged for (the 'other shop' left out the power piston and had some of the linkage was reversed). And remember, those 'other shops' are job security for you! Willie

Probably had a dynaflow...fast way of saying 'does not float'...

Where is the electric fuel pump mounted? It should be as close to the tank as possible and at or below the the fuel outlet on the tank. Fill the tank and see if that improves it.

Either the electric fuel pump is defective or it is still suckin' air between the electric fuel pump and the gasoline.

Separately, but leave loose until all is lined up.

Pull the differential cover and inspect the gears. This may also reveal how much transmission fluid that got into the rear. You should not have any side movement of the ring gear or deflection of the pinion gear when prying ( this will show if definitely bad, but not necessarily that they are good ). Pull the axle shafts, check the bearings and if ok, repack with grease and replace the seals. After all that it may even be something obscure like the universal joint in the torque ball or even incorrect adjustment of the outer torque ball retainer. Mike will tell you not to ask me about noises since the last time mine had a noise I was sure(!) it was from the rear, specifically the LR axle bearing since that the last thing I serviced...turned out it was the RF wheel bearing. :eek: Willie

Looking at the picture it might have worked...back in the mid 1960's a couple of guys claimed that they could lower the air pressure on the tires of their 1950 Buick and drive on the tracks...I was invited, but declined:eek:.

Tips: Before assembly check all the recessed areas for any yellow tint...that is nickel that did not get covered by chrome and will get worse. I even check those areas with a mild chrome polish on a white cloth...any black on the cloth means no chrome there. If you have a stainless steel buffing kit, chuck the stainless steel screws in drill and with the drill turning apply to the buffing wheel...otherwise apply the screws in the turning drill to a mild polishing compound on some heavy cloth. For about $70 new reflectors are available. Willie

I assemble mine completely off the car and so far have only had to shim between the brackets and the frame. My last install was super easy, since I found a new use for a transmission jack. Similar to Jim, but with only a 2x4 to keep the ends from rotating and the bumper centered on the jack. The tilt adjustments fine tuned it so that I only had to get down and under the car twice. Willie

Another way to see the pics: http://ddautoparts.home.mindspring.com/oilfilter_files/ click on the image number that matches the one referenced in the article.

Tim You need the Fisher Body Manual for your car. I have 54-55 and even those are specific to the model of the car. If no one has one for your car, send me a PM and I will put one on my server and send you a link. Willie

Update: Driveability is essentially normal (as normal as it gets with this crap for fuel). Maybe the available fuel is matching the season or the intake valves on the replacement cylinder head finally have carbon build up to match the other. Anyhow driving in 95* weather with the a/c running I get the usual vapor lock unless I run the electric fuel pump, but no percolation after parking and of course no paint blistering on the intake manifold. If it continues to do this well, I will leave it as is and maybe consider blocking on my other nailheads. Gas mileage is the same, but WOT for high speed passing seems faster with a definite 'kick' when the secondaries open (I wasn't watching, but the GPS recorded 95 mph:eek:)...maybe that's why racers blocked it off, to get a colder, denser charge. Gotta go....take it for another run Willie

You should find your info here:http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=315000&page=24&p=1287429#post1287429

Brian, my website (link in signature) has some pictures of your area of concern. Let me know if more pictures or description are needed. Willie

. The generator will get that hot if charging a depleted battery or high electrical load, or if run long enough will match engine temperature. What is the ammeter showing? A bad voltage regulator had one of mine 'smokin' hot' and was turning after the engine was turned off...

Junky old website made with MS Office...works with Internet Explorer: go to 'tools' --> 'compatibility view settings' and add it and refresh.

Robert, removing the date code may even be illegal. You know how to check the date code, now check the manufacturing plant code: http://www.harriger.com/tires.htm I checked one of the tires I bought with the deviant white wall size (post #30) and the whole code is: YN2A1A5031 The last 4 digits don't make sense (50th week of 2031????)...YN manufacturing plant is 'pacific rim' although it says 'made in USA' on the tire. Willie

You will only find a bunch of 'enablers' over here . It is best to buy the best example of a car, because the cheaper one will cost more in the long run to bring to that level. Enjoy it until you sell it and then divided the profit or loss by the number of years owned.

Dynaflow or manual? If dynaflow, detach linkage at transmission and see which is stiff: linkage or internal tranny. If rare manual, worn bushings in linkage will get things 'out of sync' to the point at times being unable to shift.

...and it never ends: bought 4 bias ply tires offered as 3" WWW; had them mounted and balanced and after installed on car 'something did not look right'. Measured: 2 were 2.75" and 2 were 3.25"...sh- er shucky darn. My first conversation did not go well...some 20's something snot said that was an acceptable deviation. I WILL name the vendor if subsequent contacts are fruitless.:mad::mad::mad: Willie

I was finally able to get a tire shop to try and they were able to get it on a tire balancing machine after I removed the inner races. I was as expected missing 3/4 oz, but was also showing some runout. Thanks to a good buddy who 'personalized' his 54 Century with disc brakes, I am back in business. (apparently flopping down on a brake drum and driving only a few hundred feet is not good for it ) Willie

Get a long handle utility knife, lots of sharp blades, spray with silicone.

Oil on and above the threads on a spark plug is just from it not being tight enough. I have never seen replacement gaskets ands some are captive on the plug anyhow. See your service manual for torques specs ( usually around 25 ft pounds ), although most of us just use a 'calibrated elbow'.

1955 Century. Years ago after having new tires mounted, a wheel came off after 30 miles and damaged the fender, inner fender and rim. All that was fixed, but the only way to get a smooth ride on that car was to balance the tires on the car. Nobody does that around here anymore. Also while the wheels are off the car I finally noticed that one of the front drums has no weight on it like all of the other drums on the car and all of my collection of junk drums. I would like to check the balance on that drum since it is possible that the weight was torn off (there are no marks indicating there ever was a weight...just a slight bum in one area). Any ideas on who could do this? I checked the tire place, engine machine shop, driveline place. I even backed off the brake shoes and loosened the bearing preload hoping for a repeatable heavy area, but no joy. If I had an old bubble balancer, I could balance the drum and tire as a unit...none of those around here anymore either. Willie

Eric, Get the rear sorted out then measure at the frame...page (417) of the 55 service manual...before you swap springs, shim it, etc. The body may not be uniform on the frame. Willie