old-tank

Before replacing look at the canister impression in the gasket. They can leak if not centered carefully when tightened. These things are messy even when they don't leak, but they have twice the filtering capacity of a spin on and you have the opportunity to look in the bottom of the canister for foreign material at each oil change.

After you are satisfied that all the air has been bled out, rapidly pump the brake pedal about 10 times. If you get even a little pedal that holds, there is still air in the system. If still no pedal, replace the MC.

Rainy this weekend...but I never wait for the weekend.

TeamBuick has an online manual for your car if you don't have one: http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/57_chassis/10-a.php The relay looks like other relays (horn relay, etc) and is usually on the drivers side inner fender. Trace the wires back from the solenoid: large cable, yellow wire which bypasses the ballast resistor during starting and a black wire which goes to the starter relay. Also a green wire from the voltage regulator goes to the starter relay. The carquest one looks nearly the same, but the top is unpainted and does not have 'Delco' embossed....the old top will probably fit. Willie

Bill Stoneberg started this thread and it seems it never ends for him...maybe just too many things to list on that 401. I was in his garage today helping install pistons. Seven went in easily, but one kept hanging on the first oil scrapper. Tried 2 different ring compressors 5 times ( each), took rings off the piston and they fit the bore ok...finally noticed that the top of that cylinder was not chamfered even a little bit. After taking care of that problem the piston went right in. Also on the floor was 'rebuilt' cylinder head that had exhaust valve seats installed...a center punch was used to stake the periphery but for less than 120 degrees. And these cretins call themselves professionals... Willie

With today's highly volatile gas an electric fuel pump is almost a necessity to combat vapor lock, but also to fill the carb after prolonged sitting. If functions best as close to the gas tank as possible and below the outlet on the gas tank. There are no additives that will cure the problem. Post #9 has a link to dealing with hot hard start situations. Most of us have to modify the procedure to what works with our car, like those with a carb activated start switch which requires opening the throttle to activate the starter. Anyhow most electric fuel pumps are used on and 'as needed' basis (in conjuction with the mechanical pump) with hidden toggle switch. See if yours is replacing the mechanical or is the only one and if there is a switch... Willie

You have a bad starter relay or something causing a low voltage conditions leading to sticking solenoid. See my website under tech tips then relays (http://www.buickrestorer.com/relays.html ) Willie

Sorry you had to go through that, Ben. If it has been a month already, it is time to rebuild another rear end. Willie

I have never seen an interior paint code. Even if there was one, finding a current mixing formula would be impossible. Maybe I am lucky to have a good paint supplier that will patiently custom mix my needs from my 55's to most recently my 76 Olds (acrylic enamel for the trim and SEM for the plastic)...dead-on match and even the correct gloss. This shop selects a current chip that is close and alters to match; other shops can scan a sample and come fairly close. And fairly close would show less variation than would be on the cars during the model year and produced at different locations.

Cat? Change the litter box .That car is probably just sealed tighter than the others and is trapping the volatile emissions from the plastic and other materials.

Without a picture I am going to say that the O-ring is the gasket.

Bernie, I forgot the smiley: ;)

Joshhirst13 has been missing for nearly a week. Either he gave up or is planning...look out Bernie.

Good news! You are the first I have heard of with a (working) 54 a/c. Now that it is working, use it regularly...my 55 leaks less with constant use than prolonged inactivity; even then expect a pound (16oz) a year. If the leak is intolerable, try to find a competent shop that know how to use a halogen detector or at least use a fluorescent dye (I looked like I was fingerprinted after working on Paul's compressor that had a red dye install ). If you use a halogen detector, don't do it right after servicing... there will be residual refrigerant everywhere for a few days. Willie

Pull the cross over manifold straight up, otherwise you can easily break off the nipple that goes into the timing cover. Clean well! Some deeper pits can be filled with JBWeld. Coat the new O-ring with RTV and put it into the pocket in the timing cover. I never used 2 O-rings, but it sounds like a good idea. Support the a/c compressor with an engine hoist so you can get the bracket off. Willie

Remove the lower cover bolt(s).

Great post and added pictures (for those that missed it go back to original post)...with that info, even I could get a straight-8 runnin'. Remember: fuel, spark, compression...now that you have the spark in the right order... Willie

Eat Spam and Vegemite and drink Koolaid...that will save you enough money to buy me a beer . If you showed up in that 'thing' you would attract more attention than a 400 point car.

Gaak! :eek: It ain't no big deal! Pry the dust cover off, remove cotter pin, remove nut (drivers side is reverse thread), remove outer bearing and it's inner race, grab the drum and pull it off; I used to leave the tire/wheel on also. You may have to back off the brake shoes. Leave the rivets and pin alone or you will be fighting lining up everything every time you change a tire. (just wait until you look at the torque tube:confused:...different than an opendriveshaft, but also no big deal...now removing the flywheel from a straight-8 is mickymouse engineering...) Willie

The bearings hold the hub, which has the brake drum attached . I thought they were all that way until I started playing with Ford trucks, which has the drum and hub separate like yours that apparently had the drum replaced. Willie

You only remove the rivets/pin if you change the front drum. Remove the bearings to remove (they need service anyway). Don't turn the drums unless you are changing shoes --- they are already seated. If the shoes are bonded and unknown age, replace. New wheel cylinders are not that expensive and if you flush the brake fluid every 2 years, they will last 15+ years if driven regularly. Willie

Yikes! I would be afraid to drive it around the block. Anyhow it looks like you will get the same $400 from the junk yard that I did for my wife's car (92 merc marquis 340,000 miles, bad tranny, no rust and pristine inside and out). They all die, but it depends on location as to the cause. http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/4446682733.html Fly in an drive home...I'm 35 miles away so you could stop by and play with my toys . Willie

The lining on the shoes should be different lengths with the shorter installed toward the front of the car. Most shoes are beveled on the ends.

I thought the ad said Halletsville. TX which is 65 miles east of me...instead it is Hallsville, Texas which is 340 miles northeast. Looks fairly complete, expect floors to be gone and there is a reason it was parked in the first place. I am trying to get rid of some old iron...no more room. Willie

http://www.buickrestorer.com/powersteering.html (includes a larger copy of Mudbone's chart and link to bench testing video...other videos can be found) This may help some. If you are going to work on it rebuild the whole thing, since all of the seals and O-rings are just as old and rotten. In the meatime drive it with the power steering belt removed. Willie