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Eric W

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Eric W last won the day on August 29 2016

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About Eric W

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  • Birthday 12/06/1968

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    http://www.spoonworld.com

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  1. Watched about 2 hours of Miata videos yesterday - a series about building one up for track use. Took some notes. One thing they did which seemed to make a difference for them was to rebuild the shifter. The documents with my car indicate that the transmission was changed out at some point, but the vinyl shift boot is cracked. So I figured this is one not-too-extensive thing I should look into. I ordered the kit, which includes the boot on the transmission and the boot on the floor. They also replace the nylon shifter bottom bushing with a brass part. The shifting, particularly to first & r
  2. Ok, it's all back to normal now. Had an unbiased outside observer help with some things this morning. He had a portable 12V jump start pack & we touched that to a couple of things. Everything worked then. So charge the battery! I didn't suspect that because I've had this battery about a month, and the previous (unknown vintage, but fairly recent) battery would make many more starts than this. I knew there was a hint in my first description of the problem - press start button, starter just starts, then stops = charge the battery! I might just take this ba
  3. It's positive ground. To help try to keep it straight, someone along the way painted the ground strap red and the battery cable to the solenoid green. It's hooked up right - drove it many hundreds of miles like this, until it effectively "passed away" and decided it's not moving another inch with what's under the hood. When I bought it (about 3 years ago), the generator had lost its polarity or whatever it is. I looked that up and touched the wire from whatever to whatever, and the generator worked just fine. Right now, the generator isn't even part of it. The wire out from the vol
  4. It is. Measures about 6.35 - 6.42 V at the battery, and again at the end of the (new) wires that I connect to it. The connection is like this: Battery to solenoid to new wiring to leads through firewall to ammeter. Solenoid is only holding the battery cable to the wire that goes through the firewall - the other 2 terminals of the solenoid are not connected to anything. Bypassed the ammeter (in case it's contributing), and connected that lead direct to the downstream side of the ammeter. This goes to 4 things: ignition switch, headlight switch, horn, and I'll call it Aux. Aux goes to brake ligh
  5. I didn't write anything following because it's been too frustrating. After fixing the wiper wire, I took the car out, drove around some, and everything was working (even with the speedometer and its 4 light bulbs out). Parked in the driveway, washed the tires. Then started it and pulled it in. Next day, tried to start again, starter cranked for about a second then stopped. Since then, everything electrical in the car has been hard dead. I mean EVERYTHING. First thing I pulled the starter lead off the solenoid in case the starter's shorted or something - nothing from the starter is feeding back
  6. The hose itself is too dried up - it has no give to go back over the metal tubes. Just need a new piece of hose.
  7. No, and I'd rather not. Studebaker Int'l does sell modern electronic replacements that look like the original, if it comes to that. I did replace the wiper wiring today. That started with re-discovering the other 2 fasteners that secure the radio, and getting the radio out of the way. It has to be out to access the interior side of the wiper motor mounting fasteners, to disconnect the wiper linkage from the wiper motor, and to access the wiper on/off switch. I think that the wiper wiring was the source of the intermittent short, as I found several spots of bare conductor / crumbled
  8. Tried to start again, and as soon as I hit the starter button, it didn't go. Spent the weekend taking things apart. Figured maybe the starter had died - this was a used one of unknown history. Pulled the starter out. Tried to put in the rebuilt one, but the drive gear doesn't push back enough into the housing. I think the starter rebuilder was trying to do me a favor by replacing that gear, but it's now the wrong one. It clearly does not push back enough to clear the engine's flywheel teeth. That was a hassle to get up in there, as the V8 starter is quite a bit longer than the 6-cylinder one.
  9. Thanks - got the terminal for the horn lead installed, found the needed under-dash bulb in the dome light at the back of the roof (didn't replace that wire through the headliner anyway), got the speedometer and blank gauge reinstalled, and installed the heater switch. Had to make up 2 leads for that one. Pulled tools out from all over everywhere & vacuumed. Drove it around - seems to be all good. Also need to try at night to see how the lights look. Photos - tools needed; dash reassembled.
  10. Got the horns as far as I could. Pulled the radiator shroud to solder new leads to the horns themselves - the part of the horn leads outside of the shroud was crumbled away and exposed conductor. Need another trip to the store for a blade terminal to finish them. Got the license plate light working. Pulled the trunk emblem / license plate holder off - this is the only way to access the bulb! I thought it was burned out, but I just couldn't see it in the daytime. Also took the opportunity to clean the sandy dust out from inside of the license light lens - that was blocking a lot of the light fr
  11. Frustration continues. Seems like it wasn't the battery. Still doing the works a little, then dead. Traced it to the ignition key switch. Got another one from the local store. Doesn't look so good compared with stock, but it's easy to change out if I find another stock one or figure out how to fix the one I have. Figured out the turn signals. BIG frustration on that one. 8 wires from the turn signal harness. What are they for? They look more recent than the rest of the car, so this harness must have been changed at some point. 2 of the wires were cut shorter like they're not used /
  12. Very frustrating afternoon. It would power for a couple of seconds, then all would go dead. What is it? Finally thought it might be the battery letting me down. Got another battery. From there, it was quick to get the front marker lights, high- and low-beam headlights, horn, ignition, and started it briefly - then remembered the oil pressure gauge (with a live oil pipe) wasn't connected. Dribbled some oil onto the floor. Ran the harness to the rear - around the brake master, connected brake light switch, back along the frame to the gas tank lead, over top of the frame, and out just in front of
  13. Turns out getting ready was just in time. The replacement harness came in yesterday's mail. So last night, I swapped over a couple of the light sockets that this new harness has a note must be re-used. This harness is made per the original wire color coding, so the diagram in the factory shop manual is used to guide the installation. Couple things I had to transfer from that other harness kit - turn signal wiring and the dome light leads. Per the factory manual, turn signals were an option, but the place I ordered from doesn't seem to sell a turn signal kit. I thought about just zip tying the
  14. Still waiting for the replacement harness. Backed out this mystery replacement one today - given the weather forecast, I think we're about done with cool mornings until October. Would have been nice for the harness to be here now so I could get this done before it's blazing hot, but at least got the car a little more ready for the new harness.
  15. Got the rear pair of tires today. Had considered replacing the rims, or maybe pulling these rims off for repainting, but with the Governor's "stay at home" order and all that, I figured the powder coat place might not even be open. And the fronts have some life left, so I wouldn't want to pull all 4. But I wouldn't want to do the powder coat in 2 trips, because I might not get the same color (it's lower cost if it's an "in stock" color, but you never know what's "in stock"). The left rear has had a slow leak for a while, and the prior owner definitely got all the life out of these tires - basi
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