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Found 12 results

  1. I recently bought 1951 Cadillac Series 62 with 331 V8 and Hydramatic transmition. I am going to run this car on no ethanol gasoline, however I am not sure about other fluids. 1. What kind of antifreeze should I use? 2. What about oil? Is synthetic OK? Any additives? 3. What kind of brake fluid? 4. Should I add lead substitute into gas? 5. What is in that Hydramatic AT? Thanks for any help.
  2. Found this web page with extensive info on oil filters / filter housings. Ok, so this guy's working on Chevrolet, but the page only uses photos of NOS parts. This showed me good examples of the shades of orange & blue needed + clarifies that the hold-down screw on top is natural metal, not painted. http://ddautoparts.home.mindspring.com/oilfilter.htm
  3. The last time I changed my oil I noticed the gasket to the oil drain plug in my '48 Chrysler flathead strait six looked a bit worn. I am guessing this a generic size that I can get at an auto parts store? If so, what size/ type should I find?
  4. I know there is a lot of trouble removing the oil pan on old Windsors (mines a 55), but I didn't have a way of picking out the engine so I could replace the gaskets, so I had to improvise. If you put a jack between the ti rods and the engine block (i did it on the left side) and push it about 3-5 inches the oil pan will slide out pretty easily. Just letting you guys know because it wouldn't come out for me without doin this.
  5. Leaking from valve cover gasket about 1 qt/100 miles. Should I try to re-torque the valve cover, or just pony up and get the new gasket? I just bought this car and I'm kind of--how you say-- broke. --Stephen
  6. Hi folks. I have had my TC for about a year now and changed the oil for the third time a couple of days ago. Each oil change required 7.5 quarts of oil with a filter change. The owners manual and shop manual does not have the oil capacity of 7.5 quarts. What is the experience of other 16V owners when changing oil? 4.5 quarts? Anyone have ideas as to why the excess capacity? No complaints, as I welcome the extra oil capacity. Just want to know what others are experiencing. The engine has great oil pressure that fluctuates with engine speed, consumes no significant amout between changes and has what appears to be the original dipstick. I am using Royal Purple 5W-30 and sure am happy with how clean it appears when it's time to change it. Not so happy with the $9/qt price however.
  7. Another quick question: my 1930 Studebaker Commander FD and 2 oiling ports on the generator and one on the starter motor. What is the best type of oil to use on these components (motor oil, 3-in-1, etc.)?
  8. Hello, I am extremely new to restoring cars, but i have a passion to learn about them. This is my first car and currently I am simply trying to remove the oil pan to clean it, and i'm not sure what exactly is going on but i must be missing something really simple because i have drained the oil, and removed all of the bolts but still, no matter how i move the pan, there is always about two inches of clearance i still need to be able to remove the pan. the tye rods seem to get in the way but i have lowered and raised the car and nothing helps. is there something i need to remove to get to it? Another problem i have had is finding the correct part or parts to be placed atop the carburetor. right now i have to use a manual choke to start and run it, and the car only gets about 35mph. if anybody has information on those parts or even those parts for sale please let me know. I know this is a lot but bear with me for this last question: How can i match the engine and chassis numbers? i have both and i am pretty sure they should match, i just need concrete proof. Thank you all for your time.
  9. Hello, I have a 39 Packard SU8 and it has a spin on oil filter adapter setup. 1st time changing the oil and the thread stripped on the filter cartridge. By the time I fixed that I couldn't be certain the direction of the oil filter. The canister sits between the front line near the fan and back line near the dipstick, but I though the filter portion attached to the front line. Logic tells me maybe it doesnt matter with this setup, but the last thing I want to do is set it up wrong. I've attached 2 pictures. Any help is appreciated.
  10. I've driven my Riv somewhat infrequently and decided to take it out last weekend. It worried me greatly when, what appeared to be oil shot out of the tailpipes. I immediately decided to pull the plugs and do a compression test. I let the engine warm up and, pulled the oil cap to see if there was anything spitting out of there, nothing that I could see was blowing out. Pulling the plugs they were all darkened somewhat, but to me they don't look that bad. I'm not sure when they were changed last, but I will obviously be putting in new plugs now. A compression test showed: #1 175.5 #2 176.5 #3 165.5 #4 168.5 #5 169 #6 173.5 #7 173 #8 175.5 To me this looked really good. The engine is modified slightly and has always run like a champ. Now when starting it up for the warm up there appeared to be condensation in the pipes. The pipes also have black powder on the insides...so I'm wondering the car just isn't running way to rich perhaps? Is there anything I should look at to be safe? I DO not want to drive the car if I could be stressing something out within the engine. The car sounds fine, purrs for the most part. Thank you.
  11. anybody know if 'lucas oil stabilizer' has zinc in it...:confused: and perhaps just how much zinc... i've used it a lot in my '62 cad with a very worn and knocking engine with good success... but now with the lack of enough zinc in the modern oils maybe the addition of lucas oil stabilizer may be good for all of our older engines IF there is lots of zinc in it. the price of a gallon of it is more reasonable than any other zinc additive i've seen... (so far):confused:
  12. Is any one familiar with Z-ALT oil? Seems the EPA is making everything either expensive or Illegal. Just wondering says it is made for pre 75 cars and cars that are not driven all the time.