Rosiesdad

Members
  • Content Count

    239
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

24 Excellent

About Rosiesdad

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/09/1958

Converted

  • Biography
    Life long "Motorhead". Have restored BMW, Volvo, Citroen SM, Norton.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm not running a separator. Bypassed the mech pump. The brass tee has pipe thread fittings so there is a nipple to pipe thread on the inlet. Outlet to carb is a union pipe to pipe thread. On top the return line to tank is a pipe to Swagelok 1/8" tubing. The constant gas flow keeps it cool. Have had zero vapor lock since this upgrade. I now have stainless 1/8" return line for durability. I drilled a 1/8" hole high in the filler neck for return. Good luck! Phil
  2. I run a 12psi pump near the tank. Then to a tee at the filter by the carb. From tee one side goes to carb. the other side of tee returns by 1/8" copper tube to tank filler tube neck. No more vapor lock at any temperature. Good luck!
  3. I tried out the 5th Ave. 6volt alternator. It works really nice. 60AMP and easy install. My push to start still works. Battery stays fully charged now! I only needed one piece of the mount kit and it bolted up so close to the block I am able to use the original drive belt. Nice upgrade. Cheers, Phil
  4. According to the link '53 appears to be when they went to synthetic rubber material. Good to know!
  5. Well I'm afraid I have some bad news for you. The original seals in Buick hydraulic systems are most likely natural rubber. Brake fluid is not a hydrocarbon based fluid and works fine with rubber. ATF IS hydrocarbon based fluid. It DISSOLVES rubber seals. I switched from brake fluid to ATF also. Within a month all my window and top hydraulic seals needed replacement. The seals had turned to a goo like mush. With six new cylinders with non-rubber seals all works fine again. Cheers Phil
  6. My Dad gave me one of these back in the day. I was driving a Renault 10 so the change was rather dramatic. I peeled what was left of the woodgrain off with a heat gun and went on my way with no problems for years. I seem to recall is had a 455 or something huge under the hood. Didn't get the 35mpg I was accustomed to. More like 9mpg??? I found I could fit an entire Volvo 122 hood in the back! For what it was I found it pretty nice. Last seen with my first wife.... Come to think of it my second wife got a wagon too. Hmmmm. P
  7. Welcome! Just a note on hydraulic fluids. If you change over from brake fluid to ATF in your system all the seals in every part will fail. I did that and ended up having failures soon after. Had to replace all 4 window cylinders and the 2 top ones too before it would work properly. Next I expect the pump itself will need all its seals replaced too. (ATF dissolves the natural rubber seals so you have to use synthetic rubber). If it currently works with brake fluid I would leave it...... Good luck! Phil
  8. I did this; 12psi pump at tank bypass the mech pump straight to the gas filter then to the tee fitting with a pipe to 1/8 Swaglok copper line return to tank. Only thing that worked for me. Before you could see the ethylene boil in the filter. Thank the politicians and corn lobbyists for that! Phil
  9. I have one of these in my "50. I'm wondering what the function of this valve is exactly??? TIA, Phil
  10. Good work Jared. Hopefully we will see you on the road around here sometime soon! BTW I found a great metal work guy in Vallejo that got all the filler out of mine and hes not too expensive. Phil
  11. None of the brake hoses I got from In Line Tube fit my "50. Fittings are wrong and you can't install the retaining clips! So much for "Guaranteed to fit".
  12. Thanks JohnD. I had not seen that post. Very interesting!
  13. Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving. In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. I even offered to help him pull it apart to inspect but he seems to not want that to happen. Hmmmmm. Now he tells me not to drive the car because we don't know if there are loose bits floating around the bottom of the tailshaft housing. He says to take the speedo drive off and fish around with a magnet on a string or such to try and pick anything up in there. I don't know if that is practical or if it's just another stalling technique. Needless to say I am not recommending Mike.
  14. Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving. In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. What a crock. I hate suing mechanics but it won't be the first time. $3500.00 with no R&R. for a defective rebuild. Beware. Unfortunately there is no one else in the Bay Area to take it to. Phil
  15. Yes Ken. The pointer is lined up normally and I have about 1/8 " travel past park on the arm. It works fine in drive and low. I suspect a valve body issue. I suppose a pressure test will confirm that? Thanks! Phil