Rosiesdad

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About Rosiesdad

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/09/1958

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  • Biography
    Life long "Motorhead". Have restored BMW, Volvo, Citroen SM, Norton.

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  1. According to the link '53 appears to be when they went to synthetic rubber material. Good to know!
  2. Well I'm afraid I have some bad news for you. The original seals in Buick hydraulic systems are most likely natural rubber. Brake fluid is not a hydrocarbon based fluid and works fine with rubber. ATF IS hydrocarbon based fluid. It DISSOLVES rubber seals. I switched from brake fluid to ATF also. Within a month all my window and top hydraulic seals needed replacement. The seals had turned to a goo like mush. With six new cylinders with non-rubber seals all works fine again. Cheers Phil
  3. My Dad gave me one of these back in the day. I was driving a Renault 10 so the change was rather dramatic. I peeled what was left of the woodgrain off with a heat gun and went on my way with no problems for years. I seem to recall is had a 455 or something huge under the hood. Didn't get the 35mpg I was accustomed to. More like 9mpg??? I found I could fit an entire Volvo 122 hood in the back! For what it was I found it pretty nice. Last seen with my first wife.... Come to think of it my second wife got a wagon too. Hmmmm. P
  4. Welcome! Just a note on hydraulic fluids. If you change over from brake fluid to ATF in your system all the seals in every part will fail. I did that and ended up having failures soon after. Had to replace all 4 window cylinders and the 2 top ones too before it would work properly. Next I expect the pump itself will need all its seals replaced too. (ATF dissolves the natural rubber seals so you have to use synthetic rubber). If it currently works with brake fluid I would leave it...... Good luck! Phil
  5. I did this; 12psi pump at tank bypass the mech pump straight to the gas filter then to the tee fitting with a pipe to 1/8 Swaglok copper line return to tank. Only thing that worked for me. Before you could see the ethylene boil in the filter. Thank the politicians and corn lobbyists for that! Phil
  6. I have one of these in my "50. I'm wondering what the function of this valve is exactly??? TIA, Phil
  7. Good work Jared. Hopefully we will see you on the road around here sometime soon! BTW I found a great metal work guy in Vallejo that got all the filler out of mine and hes not too expensive. Phil
  8. None of the brake hoses I got from In Line Tube fit my "50. Fittings are wrong and you can't install the retaining clips! So much for "Guaranteed to fit".
  9. Thanks JohnD. I had not seen that post. Very interesting!
  10. Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving. In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. I even offered to help him pull it apart to inspect but he seems to not want that to happen. Hmmmmm. Now he tells me not to drive the car because we don't know if there are loose bits floating around the bottom of the tailshaft housing. He says to take the speedo drive off and fish around with a magnet on a string or such to try and pick anything up in there. I don't know if that is practical or if it's just another stalling technique. Needless to say I am not recommending Mike.
  11. Well.... I spoke with Mike again (of the transmission shop In Castro Valley CA.) now that he has relocated his shop and he now claims I must have jammed the selector into park while moving. In the 7 years I have owned Bucky that has NEVER happened. The second time I drove the car after the rebuild, park failed and he says it's my fault and I will have to pay him to fix it again. What a crock. I hate suing mechanics but it won't be the first time. $3500.00 with no R&R. for a defective rebuild. Beware. Unfortunately there is no one else in the Bay Area to take it to. Phil
  12. Yes Ken. The pointer is lined up normally and I have about 1/8 " travel past park on the arm. It works fine in drive and low. I suspect a valve body issue. I suppose a pressure test will confirm that? Thanks! Phil
  13. In response to Kad36 questions; Park initially worked but nothing at all now, no clicking just like neutral. I have new thrust pad rear mount, engine mounts are fine. Tried up to around 15 turns in each direction on the selector rod. Before rebuild I had a slight jerking when backing uphill. Nothing bad. Now on the level it jerks pretty bad and feels as if the brakes are on because it quickly comes to a stop when I reduce power input. Never did that before. I have not inspected the fluid yet to look for bits. Good idea! Rebuilder didn't do a pressure tests and I questioned that.... It may be a while before I can report further. Rebuilder is currently shutting down his shop and will be working out of his home shop. I am giving him time to settle in and the weather to cool down and then I will take it over to do the tests. I think the pawl can be accessed with the tailshaft housing pulled off. Hopefully pressure tests will give us a direction to go in. Thanks all for the great insights! Phil
  14. I got my completely rebuilt Dynaflow back and put it in. ($3500) After the third drive the park function stopped working. I guess there is a parking pawl issue. The rebuilder mentioned when I picked it up that reverse might take a while to smooth out. Sure enough reverse is embarrassingly jerky as if its trying to go two directions at once. When the unit is started from cold it works OK but once warm it functions poorly. Needless to say I am not happy at this point and will be taking it back. Can anyone shed any light on this issue? THanks! Phil
  15. I was told the opposite. That water to ATF cooler is more efficient than air to ATF. I am supposed to have lines from the water pump running to an ATF cooler but I am running air to ATF cooler in front of my rad. Seems ok.