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Found 49 results

  1. I have a 33 Plymouth 2 door sedan with a 189.9 ci engine or so I believe. I however don't find anything on the net about this engine. What I find listed is a 201, 218, 230. Can someone shed some light on the subject for me? I'm considering doing a flathead hop up but am confused about what parts I can use. :confused: Thanks for any inlightenment.
  2. I am looking for a 1928 or 1929 Pontiac Roadster 6 cyl. engine. I should be complete but does not need to run and restored. As I live in Europe the engine should be crated and shipped by boat. Thanks for helping me out on this. ah100m56
  3. Some of you may know about my 1932 speedster project. two threads tel lthe tale: http://forums.aaca.org/f230/32-buick-8-50-4-su-353115.html http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1932-speedster-custom-2012-great-race-319610.html I pulled the engine last week and it needs some work. Do any of you know if the later small block 8's internal parts can be worked into these early blocks? I'm thinking of the full insert bearings used from 1947, and if it's safe to bore to 3.0938 for later pistons (this block is already at 3.00, up from original 2.9375). Thanks, jc
  4. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> I'm in Los Angeles and my 61 Buick with a 364 Nailhead is at my friend’s house in Van Nuys. The car was running fine until it was backfiring through the carb. It had 4 bad lobes on the camshaft and was still running. I have changed my camshaft, cam bearings, timing gears, chain, lifters, rods, and couldn't get my car started. I did not degree the cam when I put it in. I was told by Elgin and the guy I bought it from that I should not have to. I got the right firing. I put the timing chain and gears in tdc and according to the manual. I have checked the timing, it has good compression, firing stroke, correct firing order and can’t get my car running good. I then changed my carter carb with an Eldebrock 1406 and it started but the rpms are too low, It will idle with the carb held wide open and the valves are hardly moving. The stock nonadjustable rockers are in it. Some of the new rods from Egges seem too loose against the rocker arms. The valves don't look like they are moving very much. I have been trying to get it going for over a few weeks. I made sure all the cam bearing holes lined up. I put in a stock 401 cam E-564-S from northern auto parts, Vl-3 lifters, 364 push rods from Egges. Cylinder 1 on the passenger side is on the firing stroke, the rotor is facing 1, and timing is at 12. I got a 1406 Eldebrock carb. Flame thrower coil, Petronix points which were in the motor before and worked. New plug wires, distributor cap and ac 45s plugs. I soaked the lifters in oil first but did not pump them. I thinking maybe the lifters are not pumping up but I don't know why they wouldn't by now when the car has started. They lifters are VL-3 's according to the box. I tried again to get it going with no luck. It will turn over but it will barely idle. I looked at it with the valve cover off and they are barely moving. I have read so much at this point but I don't where to go from here. I thought I did everything right, timing, firing order, etc. Everybody has a different idea but nothing is working so far. My next step is to tear it apart again or find a shop. I haven't been able to find a shop that wants to work on a nailhead or is familiar with them. I took the valley pan off, the cam is still good. I turned the oil pump shaft with a drill and screw driver. And there is pressure of 45 to 50 on the oil sensor but I don't see any oil coming up through the engine. I'm not sure what the oil path is on the nailhead. Do I need have an old distributor shaft to move the oil through the engine? Also the push rods are loose against the rockers. There seems like there is too much play. I feel like the none adjustable stock rockers should be tighter against the rods, I’m wondering if the rockers are worn but again the car ran before with a bad cam. Some of the push rods are very noticeably loose. I pulled a new lifter out and there was no oil in it. This is a daily driver and you know what it's like not having a car in LA. I'm becoming very desperate and grasping at straws I need help or someone that can come look at it with me in Van Nuys to figure it out or a nailhead knowledgeable mechanic that I can bring it to in southern California close to Los Angeles area. 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  5. I have just acquired this 51 Chieftain Deluxe 4dr sedan. I had went through and replaced the fuel lines, cleaned the tank, tore the 2bbl Carter carb apart also tore the non working fuel pump apart and cleaned both the carb and dual diaphragm pump. The oil in the car was super thin from gas getting into it somehow? The trans (original, not sure of the speed) wouldn't go into the higher gear all of the time (more not often than often). Motor purred like a cat up until I had pushed the motor a little to see if the shifting problem was vacuum related. Motor has picked up a knocking noise while under acceleration but goes away after shift. What could be the problem there? Rod, Valve, Lifter??? Trans just doesn't seem to want to shift to higher gear or over drive if there is. Is there a modulator valve or vacuum lines to control this trans? TV linkage seems to be fine with very little play. Any help would be greatly appreciated as there is very little information out there on either the Pontiac straight 8 or the early Hydra-Matic. Thank you in advance and thank you for accepting me into this forum.
  6. Bit modern but here is one for the motor engineers, a new engine design, very interesting. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152222602946743&fref=nf
  7. Does anybody have a recommendation on who has the best engine paint that can be purchased in the old Pontiac green?
  8. I live in Oregon and I'm looking for a straight 8 motor 51-54 Buick. I have a 52 Buick Special with 263ci that needs to be replaced. If you live in Oregon and have one for sale please let me know. Thanks, Scott
  9. Hello, I'm in Oregon looking for a straight 8 motor for 51-54 Buick. I have a 52 Buick Special with a straight 8 263ci motor that needs to be replaced. Please contact me if you live in Oregon and have one for sale. Thanks, Scott
  10. I am hoping that you can assist me. I have spoken with Mac Blair and was informed that I need to find a manual hand engine crank for my dad's 1932 Buick Model 86 that has a stuck engine. Please let me know if you have any leads as to where I can obtain one. I appreciate your assistance. Ara. arachekmayan@gmail.com
  11. For Sale 1947 Cadillac 346 cu. in. Flathead V-8 Engine/Hydramatic Transmission Includes the original carburetor, air cleaner, water pump, distributor, porcelain intake manifold, heads, crank, rods, cam, valves, etc., etc. Nothing has been disassembled other than to remove the original Hydramatic transmission from engine. Needs complete rebuild, but it's all there. Just the thing you need if you want to install a Hydramatic in a car that didn't originally have one ...or if yours is beyond rebuilding. Located in Southern California. Complete assembly $975 OBO. (661) 212-2559. Email jefarrar2@yahoo.com
  12. Includes the original carburetor, air cleaner, water pump, distributor, porcelain intake manifold, heads, crank, rods, cam, valves, etc., etc. Nothing has been disassembled other than to remove the original Hydramatic transmission from engine. Needs complete rebuild, but it's all there. Just the thing you need if you want to install a Hydramatic in a car that didn't originally have one ...or if yours is beyond rebuilding. Located in Southern California. Complete assembly $975 OBO. (661) 212-2559. Email jefarrar2@yahoo.com
  13. I need the headlight ring fittings for a 1955 chrysler windsor deluxe and also the air regulator. I'm not sure if it is called the air regulator or what, if someone could tell me exactly what I'm looking for that would be great. I have a manual choke on it right now and was also wondering how I could fix that and if the air regulator (?) Would fix that. As for the rings, I have the entire headlight assembly with the exception of the rings that hold the headlights in place. If anybody is selling those I'd be happy to buy for the right price.
  14. We are a high performance center in the Northern Virginia area. We have devoted efforts to bringing you the best and the most updated performance equipment and products for your vehicles. We have teamed up with top name tuners and manufactures to bring you the highest quality products to make your vehicle handle and perform like the best! We also provide installation and performance testing of all the products we sell. We do custom fabrication and engine building if you have any more questions call us at 703-339-8663. Our location is 7644-E Fullerton Road, Springfield VA.
  15. Have sold the 29 Buick and now have no use for remaining parts: Complete engine w/bell housing, clutch and transmission, wood spoked wheels, front axle and rear axles with torque tube. Price negotiable. Pictures at: Uncle Joe's Cars Parts are in Phoenix.
  16. Have two English Ford engines to sell, pick up in Northern NJ or possible delivery to Hershey if paid for in advance. PM if interested and I'll get photos.
  17. I have listed a large assortment of Model A parts (some Model T) for my father. He sold his 1929 Model A and has a LARGE assortment of parts left he wants to sell. I have an auction on Ebay going that will end Sunday Evening. This is a no reserve auction that started at $1. Take a look Here: If that doesn't work look here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261246900751...84.m1555.l2649 Some Specific Items: - Engine Block - 2 Engine Heads - 3 Transmissions - 4 Carbs - 7 rims that are 19" Link to 100+ Pictures <embed width="480" height="360" src="http://pic2.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed738.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fxx27%2FHlone%2FFord%2520Model%2520A%2520Parts%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent">
  18. I have a lead on a 1928 Studebaker Light Six engine and I am wondering if it will mount to the transmission of my 1927 Studebaker that originally came with a Standard Six? The blocks are visibly different from pictures, so it makes me question if it would a successful swap. Any advice or knowledge is greatly welcomed. Thanks, Brian 1927 Studebaker - Nebraska Classic Car Restoration, Vintage Auto, Hot Rods
  19. Hello, We are building a great 1927 Studebaker Country Club Coupe for a customer but we have a cracked block along with other issues. Looking to buy a Studebaker Standard Six engine/block to rebuild. The car can seen at: 1927 Studebaker - Nebraska Classic Car Restoration, Vintage Auto, Hot Rods Thanks for the help! Brian
  20. Here is a short clip I was able to upload to youtube. I'm wondering if it's something wrong inside the engine or just two metal parts too close that are hitting eachother when the engine vibrates. Any help would be MUCH appreciated!!!
  21. I live in Bremerton, Washington State and my Chrysler TC was hit from behind at a stop light. The accident was a rear-end collision so the trunk, rear lights, antenna motor, hatch motor, rear body panels and rear trim is pretty crumpled or not functioning. The car can not be driven. The engine compartment was unharmed. April 3rd, 2012 we replaced the ASB Break Booster Assembly (OEM# 0446401) for $2030. The engine still runs well though the car is not driveable because of the rear damage. Starter, pumps and engine are all functioning. The hard convertible top is also undamaged as well. All the glass in the windows and windshield are original and intact. All four window motors function. One hard top opera window is fogged from moisture intrusion and there is some sun spotting on the roof. The original radio still works. All the interior lights function. The mirrors are all intact. I am not a mechanic and the few parts I could take off would get me only about $1500. Right now it's under cover at my father's house, but it can't stay there forever. I am tired of scrap car companies offering to "help me out" by crushing my car into a cube. I am looking for someone with the skill and the space who can come out and give me an offer to take what is here and put the good pieces back to use.
  22. Need a 1915 Cadillac V8 engine, will consider all options from just a bare block to a complete engine, to even an entire car. Leads appreciated! Shawn Dougan shawn@hymanltd.com
  23. Hi there, I have recently acquired a 1924 Dodge and do not really know to much about them. I cannot find any info on the internet and was just curious if ANYONE could help me out in locating the dipstick on the engines. I know this may sound like a strange question but not sure where else to look for info. Thank you Ryan
  24. 1929 Chevy truck frame with drive train complete. Engine will turn over by hand. All there,obviously needs restoration.. $2750 Possible trade for a newer project pre 1975??
  25. Hello AACA Members, My father and I are currently working on a father son project. We are fixing up my 67 Firebird. The car is all original with a 326 and very low miles. I would like to take the original engine out and store it (keep it in good condition), so I am looking for a replacement motor. I am looking for either a 400 or a 455 Pontiac engine. I would like the motor to be from 1967-1974. Does anyone have one for sale? Thanks for your help!