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Found 21 results

  1. I'm trying to get a '55 Roadmaster started after it has sat for 30 years outside my uncle's garage. Couldn't get a spark even with a lot of new electrical components. So I took the distributor out and cleaned it and put new electrical leads inside. Now I need to get the distributor back in. I read in another thread that I might have to turn the oil pump with a screwdriver to get it lined up correctly. How exactly do I do that? Jack the car up and look for a screw somewhere on the oil pump from below? Also, can I use a power drill on that same screw to make sure I'll get oil pressure if the engine ever does start? I appreciate any help I can get. As you can tell, I'm a newbie at this.
  2. I have a '55 322 nailhead that is purring beautifully. Problem is that it's been sitting for a few years before I acquired it recently. I've changed the oil with a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and had it running off and on for quite a bit. It has good oil flow, lifters and rods doing their job, etc. On startup no heavy blue smoke out the tailpipes on idle, little bit when hitting the throttle. However, once it warms up that all changes to heavy blue and I start seeing a bit of blue smoke coming out of the valve cover vents as well. Before I start the tear down, do you think it sounds more like worn valve guides, oil rings, or both? :confused:
  3. Offenhauser tri power manifold for 322 nailhead running 3 bolt Stromberg 97's or Holley 94s. Like new. Also, have brand new linkage for it. Would be shipping from Washington State. $365 ghaskett@hctc.com
  4. Has anyone used any of these headers for their 425 nailhead? Was their any clearance issues in your 1964 Buick Riviera? I wanted to know before I make an investment and what I would need to modify if any. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-BNH2-Shorty-Header-Set-for-Buick-Nailhead-V8-in-64-Up-Riviera.html http://www.taperformance.com/PDF/TAPerformance_Catalog.pdf
  5. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> I'm in Los Angeles and my 61 Buick with a 364 Nailhead is at my friend’s house in Van Nuys. The car was running fine until it was backfiring through the carb. It had 4 bad lobes on the camshaft and was still running. I have changed my camshaft, cam bearings, timing gears, chain, lifters, rods, and couldn't get my car started. I did not degree the cam when I put it in. I was told by Elgin and the guy I bought it from that I should not have to. I got the right firing. I put the timing chain and gears in tdc and according to the manual. I have checked the timing, it has good compression, firing stroke, correct firing order and can’t get my car running good. I then changed my carter carb with an Eldebrock 1406 and it started but the rpms are too low, It will idle with the carb held wide open and the valves are hardly moving. The stock nonadjustable rockers are in it. Some of the new rods from Egges seem too loose against the rocker arms. The valves don't look like they are moving very much. I have been trying to get it going for over a few weeks. I made sure all the cam bearing holes lined up. I put in a stock 401 cam E-564-S from northern auto parts, Vl-3 lifters, 364 push rods from Egges. Cylinder 1 on the passenger side is on the firing stroke, the rotor is facing 1, and timing is at 12. I got a 1406 Eldebrock carb. Flame thrower coil, Petronix points which were in the motor before and worked. New plug wires, distributor cap and ac 45s plugs. I soaked the lifters in oil first but did not pump them. I thinking maybe the lifters are not pumping up but I don't know why they wouldn't by now when the car has started. They lifters are VL-3 's according to the box. I tried again to get it going with no luck. It will turn over but it will barely idle. I looked at it with the valve cover off and they are barely moving. I have read so much at this point but I don't where to go from here. I thought I did everything right, timing, firing order, etc. Everybody has a different idea but nothing is working so far. My next step is to tear it apart again or find a shop. I haven't been able to find a shop that wants to work on a nailhead or is familiar with them. I took the valley pan off, the cam is still good. I turned the oil pump shaft with a drill and screw driver. And there is pressure of 45 to 50 on the oil sensor but I don't see any oil coming up through the engine. I'm not sure what the oil path is on the nailhead. Do I need have an old distributor shaft to move the oil through the engine? Also the push rods are loose against the rockers. There seems like there is too much play. I feel like the none adjustable stock rockers should be tighter against the rods, I’m wondering if the rockers are worn but again the car ran before with a bad cam. Some of the push rods are very noticeably loose. I pulled a new lifter out and there was no oil in it. This is a daily driver and you know what it's like not having a car in LA. I'm becoming very desperate and grasping at straws I need help or someone that can come look at it with me in Van Nuys to figure it out or a nailhead knowledgeable mechanic that I can bring it to in southern California close to Los Angeles area. 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  6. Hi Gents, just put some cash down on my first real Buick, a 1956 Buick Special 2 dr post. Real nice solid car, hailing from Manitoba Canada. As you may know there is not a whole lot of rust free surviors up here. So shes been siting for about 15 years and drove to where she sits up on blocks now. Since she hasnt ran for so long im a little scared of just hooking up a battery and some fresh gas and hitting the key,anyone have any helpful tips on safely starting up this ol v8 nailhead?
  7. For Sale: A 401 Nail head Buick engine and transmission pulled from an Invicta. $650.00 Located in Moorhead, MN. reply here or email: mark@myoldclassics.com
  8. I am building a 55 Hardtop and have the original motor and trans. It ran well when I bought and drove the car home last year. I live in CT I also have the period correct brand new tire/wheel/hubcap complete set. Make me an offer by calling or text to: 860-208-3924 Mark Vaughan
  9. Hey guys I'm going to be pulling the nailhead on my 55 special. I was wondering what the easiest place to place the chains. The intake is still on the engine and I am looking to leave it complete can I use some exhaust manifold bolts?? My trans is already disconnected so I am just going to be lifting the weight of the motor.
  10. 1958 Buick Estate Wagon: The motor is back and most everything is going together very nicely. Except the throttle linkages. In the manual it show a "bit" that connects the equalizer shaft going down to the lower lever that connects to the gas pedal. I appear to be missing this piece. Does it bolt to something? Does anyone have any pictures of what the whole hook up looks like? Does anyone have an extra "whatever I'm missing" part? Willing to buy it. I'm also missing the downdraft tube from the engine (was never there). Look forward to any help on this one. Cheers Michael.
  11. 1964 Buick Wildcat 401 Nailhead. The frame has already been restored, and some sanding work has been done. The interior is original. Runs good, but pings when floored, so it will need a tune up. I can provide pictures. Asking $13,000 OBO. This car will easily be worth $30,000 when the restoration is complete.
  12. $10,000 CALL OR TEXT 702-355-0008 ANYTIME. DON'T BE SHY, MAKE ME A FAIR OFFER. YOU ARE LOOKING AT AN ICONIC 1965 BUICK RIVIERA FROM CALIFORNIA WITH A REBUILT 401 NAILHEAD " 445 WILDCAT" WHICH MEANS IT HAS 445 LB FT TORQUE. TURBO 400 TRANSMISSION (INDESTRUCTIBLE!) ONE OF THE MOST RECOGNIZED AND LOVED CARS FROM ITS ERA! FIRST GEN RIVIERAS ARE VERY SOUGHT AFTER WITH THE 1965 MODEL BEING THE MOST DESIRABLE. ONLY YEAR EVER MADE WITH THE CLAMSHELL LIGHTS AND LAST YEAR OF THE FIRST GENERATION. CLAMSHELL LIGHTS THAT WORK! THOUSANDS WERE SPENT ON THE INTERIOR WHICH WAS COMPLETELY REDONE FROM CARPET, DOOR PLATES, WOODGRAIN, HEADLINER, SEATS, DASH PAD, SEALS ON WINDOWS, ETC. I HAVE TONS OF BRAND NEW SPARE PARTS. THIS CAR IS 100% COMPLETE. ALL WINDOWS WORK PERFECT. CALL ME ANYTIME 702-355-0008 FOR ANY QUESTIONS
  13. I have a Buick Riviera up for sale or trade. It was built from a 1964 & a 1965 Rivera. The chassis only has 68,500 original miles, The motor has 4,000 since it was rebuilt. The motor is a 401 Nailhead bored .60 over with a mild cam. It is line bored and balanced. It has Sanderson headers & a Edelbrock 4-barrel carb. It is very reliable, you could drive it cross country and back with no problems. It has a Turbo 400 transmission with a shift kit. I have replaced almost everything mechanically in the vehicle. I have over 10k just in parts alone invested into this car. The car has clamshell headlights from the 65 Riviera but the motors need to be hooked up. They can be opened and closed manually. The car has no rust on it. It was recently taken down to bare metal and was Glasuret primered. The only thing the car needs is a coat of paint and it will be beautiful. The car has American Racing Torque Thrust rims with Bf Goodrich Radial T/A Tires. I am located in Pemberton,Nj. $14,000 obo. I am open to all trades. I also have a 425 WildCat Nailhead motor that im looking to sell and a powerglide transmission.
  14. I have a Buick Riviera up for sale or trade. It was built from a 1964 & a 1965 Rivera. The chassis only has 68,500 original miles, The motor has 4,000 since it was rebuilt. The motor is a 401 Nailhead bored .60 over with a mild cam. It is line bored and balanced. It has Sanderson headers & a Edelbrock 4-barrel carb. It is very reliable, you could drive it cross country and back with no problems. It has a Turbo 400 transmission with a shift kit. I have replaced almost everything mechanically in the vehicle. I have over 10k just in parts alone invested into this car. The car has clamshell headlights from the 65 Riviera but the motors need to be hooked up. They can be opened and closed manually. The car has no rust on it. It was recently taken down to bare metal and was Glasuret primered. The only thing the car needs is a coat of paint and it will be beautiful. The car has American Racing Torque Thrust rims with Bf Goodrich Radial T/A Tires. I am located in Pemberton,Nj. $13,500 obo. I am open to all trades. I also have a 425 WildCat Nailhead motor that im looking to sell and a powerglide transmission.
  15. I have a Buick Riviera up for sale or trade. It was built from a 1964 & a 1965 Rivera. The chassis only has 68,500 original miles, The motor has 4,000 since it was rebuilt. The motor is a 401 Nailhead bored .60 over with a mild cam. It is line bored and balanced. It has Sanderson headers & a Edelbrock 4-barrel carb. It is very reliable, you could drive it cross country and back with no problems. It has a Turbo 400 transmission with a shift kit. I have replaced almost everything mechanically in the vehicle. I have over 10k just in parts alone invested into this car. The car has clamshell headlights from the 65 Riviera but the motors need to be hooked up. They can be opened and closed manually. The car has no rust on it. It was recently taken down to bare metal and was Glasuret primered. The only thing the car needs is a coat of paint and it will be beautiful. The car has American Racing Torque Thrust rims with Bf Goodrich Radial T/A Tires. I am located in Pemberton,Nj. $14,000 obo. I am open to all trades. I also have a 425 WildCat Nailhead motor that im looking to sell and a powerglide transmission.
  16. Hello, I have a Buick Dynaflow automatic transmission that came out of a 1962 Buick LeSabre with a 401. This is an open driveshaft style transmission, not a torque tube. The transmission was pulled from a good running/driving car. Includes torque convertor and dipstick tube. Asking $150 or offer, plus shipping. Local pickup is also welcome. Located in Nebraska 68701. Please email me if you'd like more information. Have a few other Buick parts I will be listing later. Thanks!
  17. Hello, Wanted to know if anyone has a harmonic balancer for sale for a 64 Buick Riviera with a 425 Nailhead engine? Or if you know junkyards or other contacts to locate one would help. thanks!
  18. once again, I need to call on you for help with my Buick. I bought a new water pump. There is only a single option available for the 401 engine. When I got it home, I checked for fit (I thought) by looking at the bolt holes. Yup, everything lines up, and when I laid it on top of the timing case cover on a workbench, it looked fine. So.......I went ahead and turned in the core. This is not my first rodeo, so I should have known not to turn in the core until the new part was installed. But when I went to install it today, I could see from the top down view, that the pump did not mate correctly only at the point where the lower radiator hose connects to the pump. The new pump is about 3/4" longer at this point, than the timing case cover, which leaves the back of the pump with an opening that can not seal. All the pump part numbers are the same from 1962 thru 1966. I can't find an alternate part number, like without A/C, or, Manual tranny, or anything silly like that. Anybody have any ideas?? My core is long gone, so if that's your idea....too late. Thank you, in advance.
  19. I'm working on a 65 riviera that sat for 10 years. I got it started and the water pump started leaking. No big surprise there. But while I was changing the water pump I got the bright idea to tighten the bolts around the timing cover. they looked wet. One bolt snapped off with hardly any pressure. It looked more corroded than I would have expected. So, I created a lot of extra work for myself taking the timing cover off to extract the broken bolt. When I took out one timing cover bolt near the fuel pump, much to my surprise, antifreeze came pouring out. I felt that from the corosion I saw on the other bolt that it was getting into coolant too. Can anyone tell me if there are bolts on the 401 that are supposed to thread into the cooling jacket??Please tell me this is normal. Thank you in advance!!
  20. Hello all, I have a very "dilapidated" '55 Buick Century with a Nailhead and was considering imstalling it in a '57 Buick. Is this a reasonable easy job or are the '55s and '57 too different for this fit? Thanks in advance. Ralph M Bohm
  21. Need help decoding the engine stamp on our Buick "Nailhead" engine Engine Stamp Number: V 1094197 Decode=_____________ Thank You, Brad www.classicgaragellc.wordpress.com