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Rear wheel toe in ( 1965 Galaxie LTD)


Wess

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Hello, I bought 65 Galaxie LTD late last year and while working on the rear brakes I noticed that the drivers side rear wheel toes inward. What would cause that, and how could I fix it?  
I need help.

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The axle shaft has been under stress for as long as the housing has been bent, also the axle carrier bearing as well as the outer axle bearing have been under stress too. So you might get lucky if the housing is not bent too bad and can be straightened, the other pieces may be okay once the stress is relieved. Also depends on how original you're wanting to keep the car, or how much you want to drive it. Myself, I'd be looking for an undamaged axle. Good luck.

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2 hours ago, Wess said:

Hello, I bought 65 Galaxie LTD late last year and while working on the rear brakes I noticed that the drivers side rear wheel toes inward. What would cause that, and how could I fix it?  
I need help.

Are you sure one wheel is toed in but the other isn't toed out? You probably know this car has a solid rear axle. It's pretty difficult (but not impossible) to bend the axle housing in that direction in normal use. Yes, a pretty hard accident would do it, but there would be other evidence of that. It's far more likely that the entire housing is misaligned relative to the car. Check for proper location of the housing on the leaf springs, possible broken spring leaf, work or damaged spring bushings, or damage to the leaf spring anchor points on the underside.

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2 hours ago, 1912Staver said:

Pretty sure a 1965 Galaxy is coil springs and locating arms.

OK, you've now exceeded my knowledge of Fords. 😁

 

Thanks for the correction. In that case, definitely look at bad control arm bushings or damaged control arms.

 

1965-ford-galaxie-500-xl.webp1965-ford-galaxie-500-xl.webp

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5 minutes ago, 30DodgePanel said:

Can you clarify which way it's toeing (1 or 2) in order to make sure the answer you need is correct for each situation?

 

 

 

image.png.8ecee8c6e68b0145aabbdf32fb407d09.png

Your drawing unfortunately doesn't specify which way is forward. 😉

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22 minutes ago, Wess said:

My wheel looks more like drawing number 1. The wheel is not leaning, it looks as if it is steering to the right, but on the rear.

 

Have you driven it at all since fixing the brakes to see if it is showing any symptoms or if you are hearing any noises?

Bushings can create many symptoms that should help you determine what it is before you spend time on money on things it's not. 

 

Noises and symptoms like: clunks or rattling, poor handling or pulls to one side, noticeable tire wear, metal grinding, squeaking and vibrations are also possible if the arm bushings are bad. 

 

Definitely look for any rear damage to the control arm area that may help pinpoint other possible things.

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I am sure many of us older folks can remember seeing a car “ doglegging” it down the road with rear wheels following a different track from the fronts. We were taught when looking at a car we might want to buy to drive it through a puddle and then stop and look at the tracks. If the tracks didn’t align a bent frame or suspension was a good probability.

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On 2/22/2024 at 6:22 PM, Wess said:

Hello, I bought 65 Galaxie LTD late last year and while working on the rear brakes I noticed that the drivers side rear wheel toes inward. What would cause that, and how could I fix it?  
I need help.

Wes,

I am not a Ford guy buy any means. and I am not saying this is your cars problem but be aware, a good friend of mine bought the same model car about 30 years ago, it was a one owner garage kept gem The frame was rotted near the lower control arms, when he looked into it he found out it was a common problem on those year Fords. He repaired it.  

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You might have a 4 wheel alignment done, front end probably needs it anyway. They will tell you exactly how far out the rear wheels are, if any, and why. As others have said, it could be worn suspension bushings, something bent,  or rusted frame or control arm. On the other hand, it could be nothing. You get some odd angles working under a car and sometimes things look off or bent when they are not.

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Remember:

 

The rear wheels steer the car, as in make the path the vehicle proceeds in. The front wheels correct for going around corners, or straight down the road!

 

Once I understood that, understanding the rest of wheel alignment was easy.😉

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  • Peter Gariepy changed the title to Rear wheel toe in ( 1965 Galaxie LTD)
  • 4 weeks later...

It turns out that my frame had a hack job of a repair at some point and trailing arm mount is welded in to the torque box 1-1/2 inches too far forward on the drivers side. It turns out that most of the frame is crap.  I guess I have a parts car as it is probably not worth a frame swap. Too bad because it is a pretty good looking car. Thanks everyone for their input previously. FullSizeRender.jpeg.eeb9d493b11182e32f9a6d908d404f48.jpeg

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Wow, that is a real shame that the frame is damaged beyond repair.

Nice looking car.

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Too bad about the frame. For some reason these cars are often very rusty in the rear section of the frame. I am not sure if it is the design that is at fault or perhaps the type of steel that was used. Both Ford and GM have this problem , mid 1960's . But it seems more common on these full size Fords.

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13 hours ago, Wess said:

It turns out that my frame had a hack job of a repair at some point and trailing arm mount is welded in to the torque box 1-1/2 inches too far forward on the drivers side. It turns out that most of the frame is crap.  I guess I have a parts car as it is probably not worth a frame swap. Too bad because it is a pretty good looking car. Thanks everyone for their input previously. FullSizeRender.jpeg.eeb9d493b11182e32f9a6d908d404f48.jpeg

I would encourage you not to give up on your '65 LTD.  There are still many good solid perimeter-frame '60's Ford parts cars to be found in the west and southwest salvage yards.  Since a solid frame is what you need, locate one, have it shipped to you.  While a frame swap is not a small undertaking, once the front clip is removed and your body mounts unbolted, the body is lifted completely off the rust-damaged frame.  This provided open access to transfer your powertrain and ancillary parts.  When that is complete the body is lowered onto the replacement frame, bolted down, front clip installed, and details buttoned up.   It's a process but one that step-by-step is logical and can be accomplished with planning.  Good luck saving your '65 LTD.

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There are a number of ZooTube videos talking about frame swaps on these cars. Suffice to say that such an undertaking isn't for the faint of heart. The other problem is finding a good frame. Of course, with that much frame rust, one has to wonder what's under that new paint. And let's be honest here, more-door cars won't have the same value as two-doors, so any such effort will rapidly be underwater. The moral of this is if you aren't capable of inspecting for this sort of damage, pay someone who is before cash changes hands.

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Nice car. I would look for a shop that does frame straightening and get their opinion. If you were to loosen all the body mount bolts and disconnect the front clip you may be able to tilt the body by jacking the rear off the frame a bit to give some working room to cut out the bad part and weld in a new section. Not a job for someone not qualified. Time for a trip to the junk yard to find an undamaged frame for a section. A good shop can fix it, align it and make it right.

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They weren't much of a frame to begin with so repairing it by a good frame shop might end up in the $1,000-2,000 range.

 

The really good thing about having a job like that farmed out is avoiding the "while I am in there" syndrome. Big plus.

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1 hour ago, joe_padavano said:

There are a number of ZooTube videos talking about frame swaps on these cars. Suffice to say that such an undertaking isn't for the faint of heart. The other problem is finding a good frame. Of course, with that much frame rust, one has to wonder what's under that new paint. And let's be honest here, more-door cars won't have the same value as two-doors, so any such effort will rapidly be underwater. The moral of this is if you aren't capable of inspecting for this sort of damage, pay someone who is before cash changes hands.

I agree. 

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2 hours ago, 58L-Y8 said:

I would encourage you not to give up on your '65 LTD.  There are still many good solid perimeter-frame '60's Ford parts cars to be found in the west and southwest salvage yards.  Since a solid frame is what you need, locate one, have it shipped to you.  While a frame swap is not a small undertaking, once the front clip is removed and your body mounts unbolted, the body is lifted completely off the rust-damaged frame.  This provided open access to transfer your powertrain and ancillary parts.  When that is complete the body is lowered onto the replacement frame, bolted down, front clip installed, and details buttoned up.   It's a process but one that step-by-step is logical and can be accomplished with planning.  Good luck saving your '65 LTD.

 

I was trying to get a frame shipped a month or so ago. Actually a frame plus a bunch of parts packaged up inside, but a LOT smaller { like 1/2 the footprint } and no heavier than one from one of these full sized Fords. A very small sports car chassis. New York State to Washington State. All the quotes were $3500 +. More than the frame and parts were going to cost. The shipping cost made the whole deal uneconomical by a good margin. 

Edited by 1912Staver (see edit history)
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