Glen Andrews

As someone wrote: no title, no interest. The above post by "alsancle" I refer to item #4, if there is a valid title ask for it and compare it to the serial number tag or vehicle identification number tag and make sure there is a match before money changes hands. In 1974 I was stationed in North Carolina, bought a car with a Virginia title, and went to register in my home state of Pennsylvania, on the Virginia title one of the characters was incorrect, and it took about three months to get a corrected Virginia title, and then I could register the car in Pennsylvania. That was a lesson learned and ever since then I have compared the title to the car serial number, even did it when i bought new HD motorcycles, asked the dealer for the manufacturers paperwork so I could compare the numbers. If a seller doesn't want to comply, then forget that deal.

Wow, a lot to read and to take in here. I probably won't replace my headlight bulbs to higher brightness, it's a 1938 Chevy pickup with bulbs behind the glass and it does not have a high beam indicator light. When I drive my newer vehicles (2020 & 2006) at night, and it's similar to what a couple of people mentioned above, I now put my sunglasses on like a pair of cheater reading glasses and when a car approaches I lift my head a little and the sunglasses cut out enough oncoming light, when the vehicle passes by I lower my head to my usual driving position. I too used to use the thing of looking at the white line but light is still coming into your eyes. Anyway the sunglasses work well for me.

The axle shaft has been under stress for as long as the housing has been bent, also the axle carrier bearing as well as the outer axle bearing have been under stress too. So you might get lucky if the housing is not bent too bad and can be straightened, the other pieces may be okay once the stress is relieved. Also depends on how original you're wanting to keep the car, or how much you want to drive it. Myself, I'd be looking for an undamaged axle. Good luck.

I have a '38 Chevrolet half ton pickup, same fuel pump type, you can also get them from Rock Auto, the product line to order is Victor-Reinz, a little over a dollar a piece I think, fit like a charm, get two or three of them, at that price it's good to have backup!

In the FBook listing there is a video of the engine running, just wish he would have revved it a bit, but it still sounded good. The engine and compartment are in excellent shape, inner fender wells are red, no visible rust, engine relatively clean and orderly and there appears to be no hacking into the wiring harness, so basically unmolested under the hood. The body lines look excellent and the body appears solid, and yes it needs to be seen in person. And as someone said above, if the body is good and the mechanics need attention then costs can be better predicted. I'm guessing it's over a 100,000 miles, sure the seats are worn and the dash appears to be cracked, but it is the first year for the TR4, they have a top and a car cover, but there is not a clear mention of a title. I've been watching these cars and have seen a bunch in worse shape for the same $ or more, I think this is a pretty good deal at $8000, but $7000 would be a really good deal, and once again a potential buyer really needs to see it in person. I've had TR3's and a TR6 in my youth but at this price, and if I had garage space, I would be making a one way trek of about 8 hours to check it out.

Anybody hurt in that wreck?!

And to repeat a quote I have used from time to time, from veteran oil well fire fighter Red Adair: if you think an expert's expensive, wait until you hire an amateur.

About 10 years ago I wasn't doing much with my restored '38 Chevrolet pick up and it sat a few months with ethanol gas in it, I was doing a lot of Harley riding that summer. When I went to start it I used ether, and it would quit running once I stopped applying the ether. You know what the carburetor looked like inside, so a rebuild was necessary, the ethanol gas apparently ate at the rubber flex hose from the tank to the fuel line, and I found the inside of the intake manifold black and gummy, took it off and soaked it in an acid bath at a machine shop, the intake runners of the head were also black and gummy so I used a lacquer soaked rag to get in there to clean them. A lot of hassle and aggravation that I decided to avoid after this experience. So since then I change the gas in the tank every 8 weeks, I put 4 gallons in and use that to start it up and run it every week or two or to drive around the neighborhood, I put more gas in if going to a show. Luckily I have a country store gas station near me that sells 87 and 93 NON ethanol, so for the last 7 years I've been using that. Any remaining gas I drain out I put into my Tundra's 38 gallon tank and top it off with regular gas. I do prime the carburetor if I let my '38 sit too long, cranking it when dry is too rough on the starter and the battery. I know this sounds like an ordeal to change gas every 8 weeks but sometimes it's like I try to make my life difficult!!! And I usually do a good job of it, but it works for me.

It will need some work, and tires, to be made reliable, and if the pictures are current then at least it's cleaned up and out of the garage, so it probably runs okay to some degree. Overall a really nice car.

I think I answered the wrong guy a bit further down this thread, I meant to quote you, it's late, I'm tired, and so on, but anyway I hope you get to read it; good luck with this project.

Very interesting car and project, a lot of good advice given by the members on this thread, and you have a good attitude and idea about working on this car; someone said to do something for an hour a day so that you see progress, and that reminds me of something I once heard: "this is like eating an elephant, you do it one bite at a time." Good luck with your project, myself and all the others on this thread are hoping the best for you.

Myself, like a lot of others, have worked on and been around cars a long time: can someone tell me what an IN LINE V-8 engine is!!

Maybe it is a plain faced vacuum gauge, my computer and eyes (even with cheaters on) can't make out the letters on the face of the gauge. And yes back in the day when adding air shocks was popular there was typically a valve added somewhere on the rear panel near the bumper where free air was pumped in at a gas station. There is not a good picture of the lower rear of the car to spot such a valve, the only hint I got was from the one trunk picture where there is what appears to be a red plastic line just barely showing on the left side just inside the trunk, maybe for the air shocks?? Twenty years ago I had an '85 Cadillac Eldorado and the automatic leveling sensor for the air ride was bad, no easy replacement part to be found and I didn't have a lot of money in the car, so underneath the dash on the driver side I wired a toggle switch to the under hood air pump so I could raise/level up the back end of the car.

Ed: Initially I thought vacuum gauge, but after looking and thinking about the comments, I think you're correct that it is for rear air shock pressure and the toggle switch to the right of the gauge was added to run an added air pump to pressure up the shocks. It was probably added back in the 70's as air shocks were a popular add on back then. It appears the gauge goes to 30 pounds which could be a vacuum gauge, but I'm going with air pressure gauge and toggle switch for an air pump for the rear shocks.