Glenn Thoreson

I just use Quaker State High Mileage oil in my flatheads. Never had a wear problem. The big advantage of the modern oils is they keep contaminants in suspension so they can better be filtered out and they don't make the sludge you would see in old cars that used nondetergent oils. Zinc additives can be purchased if your need warrants. A rigorous oil change schedule is as important as anything.

A fairly common problem when in storage in a high humidity atmosphere. I use the Armstrong method of popping it loose. I've used two methods of doing it without taking anything apart. Number one: Start the engine and let it warm up. With the gears in neutral, Let it idle and just quickly and forcefully jam it into low gear. That usually knocks it loose. Number two: Doesn't always work but easier on parts. If you can start the engine in low gear so it will move forward on a street with no obstacles, get it going and keep stomping the throttle to the floor and let off. Quickly keep doing that to keep shocking the clutch. IF it's not rusted too bad a few times of doing this will usually do it. The trick is to shock the clutch. You need to get it hopping up and down. Don't baby it. Before doing anything, adjust all the free play out of the linkage and keep your foot on the pedal. If you get it free you can then adjust it to specs. Be aware that a rust stuck clutch will sound like it's full of sand or something when you get it freed up. That will go away after some use.

Nice car. I would look for a shop that does frame straightening and get their opinion. If you were to loosen all the body mount bolts and disconnect the front clip you may be able to tilt the body by jacking the rear off the frame a bit to give some working room to cut out the bad part and weld in a new section. Not a job for someone not qualified. Time for a trip to the junk yard to find an undamaged frame for a section. A good shop can fix it, align it and make it right.

Fuel lines that are over or near hot surfaces can easily vapor lock. If you have a line running over the engine, make sure there is plenty of room between the two. or reroute the line. I assume that the gas line slits to service two carbs. If one branch is too hot and boils the gas in that branch, but the other branch is located in a cooler spot, the hot line can vapor lock while the other does not. The crap gas we get now boils at a lower temperature than the good old stuff. Be aware that just because it's new no longer means it's good. My first check would be the coil(s). I've had plenty of experience with that problem. Try temporarily hooking up a known good coil and see what the results are, if any. Electric fuel pumps --- They need to be installed as close to the tank as possible. They're great at making pressure but not very good at sucking. Never mount one in the engine compartment or put a filter on the inlet side of the pump.. Inadequate pressure promotes vapor lock.

Joe, I have not heard from you. Any luck? The picture in a previous reply shows the correct part I need.

Yes, Joe. It should have 5 wire connector tabs with screw terminals. Fuse connector tab at the side with two terminals. Thanks for your reply Glenn

Need the relay that controls the ignition interrupter, solenoid function and governor input. This relay was used from late '40s to early '50s as far as I can determine. I can supply a part number if needed. No rusty junk, please.

I have driven way too many 50 dollar, worn out, rusty old clunkers on thousand mile plus trips when I was a young pup and never had any serious problems with any of them. The usual overheating on the desert and a starter that fell off and hung by its tail for an unknown number of miles outside of St George, Utah were just minor inconveniences. No interstate highways then, just skinny two lane roads with no shoulders. All those roads here in the west went right down the main streets of every little town and you could see a lot of interesting things. Now, the interstate highways conveniently bypass any scenery, etc. and they are boring. At 80 years old and lots of health problems, I'm no longer able to drive long distances and I miss the days of adventure. However, I do drive my cars on short trips regularly with no worries at all. I am posting a picture of my favorite car. My '42 Ford is not restored, just well refreshed and well cared for. I would drive it anywhere.

Folks, please stick to the topic. My original post is offering the gentleman an item he is looking for. Thanks you.... Glenn

Classic case of fuel boiling in the carb when the engine is turned off when hot. That can push the gas up and out the main jets and flood the thing. Also, rout the gas line so it doesn't pass near any hot engine parts. The crap gas we get now boils at a lower temp the good old stuff and that just adds to the problem. My big six engine had the gas line from the pump to the carb about an inch from the exhaust manifold. It was built that way. Before I had any problems, I moved it away before problems arose. Check your heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold. If it's rusted shut it will add to the problem. Check the float level. If too high it will add to the problem.

Owens Salvage Co. Wellington, TX 1-800-798-2581 Email: flattopbob@gmail.cm Good source for the old stuff. Excellent reputation.

Got a good look at it yesterday. No luck, wrong one. I do have a good place to try to find one, though. Have you contacted Owens Salvage Co. in Wellington TX? I have driven by there numerous times but never stopped. They deal in old car parts, 65 acres of it. Glowing reputation, too. If you want to call them it's 800-798-2581. Email is: flattopbob@gmail.com Sorry I can't give more help. Good luck with your project............ Glenn

Joe, I can't seem to access your private messages. Also, I can't find your address in any of our conversations. Can you provide it here? Thanks ........... Glenn

Thanks, Joe. I'll get a check off to you. Glenn

Joe, those look like the right ones. I don't know what to offer. Please I know the postage in a small padded envelope would be 8 to 10.00. I would like to have them. Let me know a price, please. Do you take paypal? My address is: Glenn Thoreson PO Box 305 Cokeville WY 83114 Thanks!