Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 1 hour ago, Mark Shaw said: Ever try an original prewar mechanical brake switch? Paul, Mark has the right idea. My 1992 Roadmaster has this, or similar, switch. Actually two. One for brake light , one for cruise control disconnect. Just a TOUCH on the pedal activates them. Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 The brake light switch on my firebird is mechanical. It clamps to a bracket that is inline with the brake pedal arm. Very simple. May be able to rig something like that one up pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 (edited) 4 hours ago, TAKerry said: The brake light switch on my firebird is mechanical. It clamps to a bracket that is inline with the brake pedal arm. Very simple. May be able to rig something like that one up pretty easy. My 1973 Chevelle had that too. I remember because it was out of adjustment when I first got the car and the brake lights would stay on after the pedal was released. I just had to readjust the mounting and all was good. Edited January 22 by TerryB (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Packard enthus. Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 HEADLIGHT BULBS I got all excited about the discussion in here about LED headlight bulbs. I presently have 50W quartz halogens using modeern reflectors I installed behind my "stock" lenses, so my headlights look "period correct". The order confirms they understood my old car (see below) is 6 volts. They came today from a 'USKY3 WHAREHOUSE in Hebron, Kentucky. Nice fancy box labeled "LED auto lamps". No indication who the mfg. is, no indication what voltage. On installing them in my car...... NOTHING! Turns out they only work on modern NEGATIVE ground systems. When I reversed the polarity, they lit up - but I m frankly not impressed with them. They are nowhere near as bright as my existing quartz hologens. when I reversed the polarity. I did NOT try to put 12 volts on them for fear of burning them up. For those of you who also have 6 volt cars - yes, I would recommend quartz halogens, avail. from a number of sources. Just bear in mind you will have to re-wire your headlight "buckets" to modern "bayonet" style connectors. Also, today's quartz-halogens pull a LOT more amps than the old incandescents/sealed beams. I am lucky, Packard Twelves have the biggest 6 volt generators of any pre-war car I am aware of, plus a "Group 4" sized battery. Your problem? Quartz halogens may well have a greater electrical demand that pre-war "factory" electrical systems in most cars can handle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32buick67 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Expensive, yes, but we often get what we pay for... I installed these and haven't been disappointed, we drive at night, and are amazed at the low and high beam performance! https://www.logolites.com/products/led-headlights-and-bulbs/led-headlights/focused-beam-led-headlights/ I will promote these all day long for those driving dawn to dusk and beyond... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrspeedyt Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) this lever switch posted by mark shaw is what I'm interested in for my Cadillac. the original pressure switch works okay for what it is at seemingly low pressure but I want the brake lights to come on just as soon as I start pushing on the brake pedal without any real pressure at all. Edited January 28 by mrspeedyt (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1gt Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 anybody have LED part numbers and source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Packard enthus. Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 18 hours ago, 32buick67 said: Expensive, yes, but we often get what we pay for... I installed these and haven't been disappointed, we drive at night, and are amazed at the low and high beam performance! https://www.logolites.com/products/led-headlights-and-bulbs/led-headlights/focused-beam-led-headlights/ I will promote these all day long for those driving dawn to dusk and beyond... Wow...sounds great - only problem for post 1939 cars is the socket adapter...is there such a thing...? I would need something to connect the old'style socket base to the 1940 & later "sealed beam" type three prong connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 I was able to buy T3 connectors for sealed beam headlights and adapt it to my 1935 Lincoln. I even found some with 12-gauge leads so they could handle any headlight bulb I could put in there. I started with LEDs but as I mentioned earlier in this thread, they just scattered the light without putting it on the road, so I ultimately went back to regular halogen bulbs, which do light the road better. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 LED lights are indeed polarity sensitive. It’s the inherent design of the basic LED device which is a diode and a diode only allows current to flow in one direction. To achieve operation in other applications like AC power or negative voltage requires circuitry to be added to the bulb, usually inside it. Beware to get the right ones! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 Best 12 volt LED lights ever are the brand called Truc-lites. Installed them in my car years ago and are perfect for all season driving. The come in all shapes and sizes and now have a heater for snowy conditions. Not cheap but wet worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) On 1/21/2024 at 12:42 PM, Mark Shaw said: Ever try an original prewar mechanical brake switch? I'd have to coble up a way to mount the mechanical switches. Another member found the low pressure switches that screw into the master cylinder exactly like the original do and sent me the link. I ordered some and pressure tested them and they make contact at 40-45 psi which is what the originals did. The link is posted below. Paul Edited January 30 by PFitz (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) For those rebuilding their '30 and later brake system, Bill (Hook on here) sent me a link to low pressure brake light hydraulic switches. I ordered and tested a couple, and they make contact at 40-45 psi just like the originals. Safer than the high-pressure switches commonly available because these also work with light brake pressure for slow driving while also using the engine to aid in braking. Here's the link to the switches sold on Amazon. Amazon.com: TMaster Low Pressure Hydraulic Brake Light Switch Street Hot Rod,for Any Brake System,Turns Brake Lights on at 45PSI : Automotive Thank you Bill (Hook). Paul Edited January 30 by PFitz (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 (edited) On 1/21/2024 at 12:59 PM, Joao46 said: Are you sure? I just looked up a switch from painless wiring and they claim a range of 51-120 psi. Yes, I've tested the pressure of many, both originals and new replacements. The originals were meant to work with early lower operating pressure brake systems. Paul Edited January 30 by PFitz (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdome Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 The little square LED chips that make up the replacement bulbs are typically 3 volt with proper voltage reduction built in. Some very in brightnes by voltage but I assume the LEDs used in automotive application are the Schottky type, meaning that once the voltage reaches a threshold, it comes on at full brightness. Any fluctuation in voltage above or below the threshold will not effect brightness, so lights do not dim as the generator rpms slow to idle. There are direct plug in replacements (no modification required) for the some of the common vintage auto bulbs, but you have to order the correct replacement for your cars battery system. Restoration Supply has a chart of direct replacement LED bulbs listed by the old incandescent bulb #, voltage, and ground polarity. Example: Old bulb #1154, double offset base is available for application: 6 volt - gnd. order part # ELE456. 6 volt + gnd. Order part # ELE 457. 12 volt - and. Order part # ELE458. As a side note. Most 6v tail light buckets do not have reflectors. Paint the inside of buckets and socket bracket hardware with gloss white enamel. Gloss white will create a brighter, rose glow that not only improves night visibility but also creates a brighter brake light contrast in daylight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticbuicks Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 (edited) The nice thing about LED bulbs is that come on full brightness and with a wide range of voltage ,it dosnt require 12 volts to work full brightness .....example at many store displays ....the 12 volt bulbs,off road running light bars etc and lights with little "try me button " are just a half dead little rectangle 9 volt battery like in a multimeter in the actual package or powering the light display Edited January 31 by arcticbuicks (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdome Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 On a related issue, replace your shop/garage florescent tubes with LED tubs. I replaced 24 - eight ft tubes at work 10 years ago and haven't had a single failure or dimming. Those lights are on at least 10 hrs a day 6 days per week. We have 20ft ceilings and put in daylight brightness. Soft white are available and might be better on lower ceilings. Huge difference between daylight LED and dim yellow florescents, but they will really improve the lighting in your shop. You can buy LED tubes that can plug directly into balast/transformer fixtures or tubes that can be wired direct to 110. I chose to rewire our fixtures to use 110 v LED. Ballasts can go bad and get hot and may be a fire hazard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 15 hours ago, jdome said: On a related issue, replace your shop/garage florescent tubes with LED tubs. I replaced 24 - eight ft tubes at work 10 years ago and haven't had a single failure or dimming. Those lights are on at least 10 hrs a day 6 days per week. We have 20ft ceilings and put in daylight brightness. Soft white are available and might be better on lower ceilings. Huge difference between daylight LED and dim yellow florescents, but they will really improve the lighting in your shop. You can buy LED tubes that can plug directly into balast/transformer fixtures or tubes that can be wired direct to 110. I chose to rewire our fixtures to use 110 v LED. Ballasts can go bad and get hot and may be a fire hazard. There was a guy at a swap meet last summer that had cases of Four ft tubes that ran on regular 120 volts. two bucks each tube. This prompted me to upgrade my older enclosed trailer. Just took out all of the ballasts, fixed up a couple of loose plastic ends, stuck the new tubes in and they work great. I have a neighbor that told me that if I was to simply step up and replace ALL of my fluorescent fixtures in my shop with LEDs they would pay for themselves within a year. I did that, not sure if they paid for themselves but assume that they did. Good light with my white painted ceiling. I feel so modern. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon37 Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 On 1/27/2024 at 5:59 PM, Packard enthus. said: HEADLIGHT BULBS I got all excited about the discussion in here about LED headlight bulbs. I presently have 50W quartz halogens using modeern reflectors I installed behind my "stock" lenses, so my headlights look "period correct". The order confirms they understood my old car (see below) is 6 volts. They came today from a 'USKY3 WHAREHOUSE in Hebron, Kentucky. Nice fancy box labeled "LED auto lamps". No indication who the mfg. is, no indication what voltage. On installing them in my car...... NOTHING! Turns out they only work on modern NEGATIVE ground systems. When I reversed the polarity, they lit up - but I m frankly not impressed with them. They are nowhere near as bright as my existing quartz hologens. when I reversed the polarity. I did NOT try to put 12 volts on them for fear of burning them up. For those of you who also have 6 volt cars - yes, I would recommend quartz halogens, avail. from a number of sources. Just bear in mind you will have to re-wire your headlight "buckets" to modern "bayonet" style connectors. Also, today's quartz-halogens pull a LOT more amps than the old incandescents/sealed beams. I am lucky, Packard Twelves have the biggest 6 volt generators of any pre-war car I am aware of, plus a "Group 4" sized battery. Your problem? Quartz halogens may well have a greater electrical demand that pre-war "factory" electrical systems in most cars can handle. You suggest that 6-volt car owners who want quartz halogen lamps will have to re-wire their headlight buckets to fit modern "bayonet" style connectors, and that retro-fit quartz lights may strain the capacity of pre-War generators. Actually, if my memory is correct (and unless these are no longer made) Classic and Vintage Bulbs makes 6-volt halogens with the original-style "American Pre-Focus" bases. These can fit the existing 1930's connectors with the 3-hole flanged bases. They also make halogens to fit 1920's connectors. https://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/index.html . Regarding required amperage, I seem to recall that they sell 35 and 50 watt (or was it candlepower?) versions of the halogen lamps. I used their quartz halogen lamps in my '37 Terraplane (whose generator had a modest output) with no problems. Later I switched to LED headlamps made by Classic Dynamo and Regulator, in England. Their LED's work with 6 volts, pos. or neg. ground, and have the correct original prefocus bases. (However, the high beam mode doesn't seem to "project" very far down the highway.) https://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yachtflame Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 On 1/30/2024 at 10:20 PM, jdome said: On a related issue, replace your shop/garage florescent tubes with LED tubs. I replaced 24 - eight ft tubes at work 10 years ago and haven't had a single failure or dimming. Those lights are on at least 10 hrs a day 6 days per week. We have 20ft ceilings and put in daylight brightness. Soft white are available and might be better on lower ceilings. Huge difference between daylight LED and dim yellow florescents, but they will really improve the lighting in your shop. You can buy LED tubes that can plug directly into balast/transformer fixtures or tubes that can be wired direct to 110. I chose to rewire our fixtures to use 110 v LED. Ballasts can go bad and get hot and may be a fire hazard. A rental shop in my area was selling 4’ LED shop lights for $5 each. Seems the MA government was trying to get people to convert. I bought 30 of them to swap out in my shop and my friends shop. They work great with no flickering. Best $150 I ever spent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1gt Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 On 1/30/2024 at 2:29 PM, jdome said: The little square LED chips that make up the replacement bulbs are typically 3 volt with proper voltage reduction built in. Some very in brightnes by voltage but I assume the LEDs used in automotive application are the Schottky type, meaning that once the voltage reaches a threshold, it comes on at full brightness. Any fluctuation in voltage above or below the threshold will not effect brightness, so lights do not dim as the generator rpms slow to idle. There are direct plug in replacements (no modification required) for the some of the common vintage auto bulbs, but you have to order the correct replacement for your cars battery system. Restoration Supply has a chart of direct replacement LED bulbs listed by the old incandescent bulb #, voltage, and ground polarity. Example: Old bulb #1154, double offset base is available for application: 6 volt - gnd. order part # ELE456. 6 volt + gnd. Order part # ELE 457. 12 volt - and. Order part # ELE458. As a side note. Most 6v tail light buckets do not have reflectors. Paint the inside of buckets and socket bracket hardware with gloss white enamel. Gloss white will create a brighter, rose glow that not only improves night visibility but also creates a brighter brake light contrast in daylight. Thank you for the info. Restoration Supply Good stuff at reasonable prices. For a change a company is very close to where I live!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 On 1/28/2024 at 1:33 PM, Matt Harwood said: 👍 It's nice to see wiring repairs and connections done in a workmanlike manner, because I've seen way too many that aren't! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boby Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Hello guys, am an Amazon seller but because of their new policies I had to remove my inventory from there. I have to offer LED headlights at factory price for sell in bulk because I no longer want to sell in that niche. I will send you my website so you can check them. I had very good feedback from customers and great reviews if you are interested send me back an email or contact me on the phone: +359886955744. you can check them on. https://ledefect.com/ thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted sweet Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 i smell a scam 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 9 hours ago, ted sweet said: i smell a scam 😁😁🤞 Ben 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 14 hours ago, ted sweet said: i smell a scam Could be. I did a Whois search and found all the website owner information is "redacted for privacy". https://www.whois.com/whois/ledefect.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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