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PFitz last won the day on January 16

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  1. Check to see that,.... The fiction facings are correct thickness. If new facings are just a tiny bit too thick, that's times two sides and it can sometimes make the disc just barely beyond the range of adjustment. The disc is not warped or has a bent hub causing wobbling when spun on a mandrel. The disc hub and input shaft splines are clean, not rusty, no hardened goo way down in the spline corners., or notched with wear preventing the disc from sliding easily on the splines. Pressure plate and/or flywheel surfaces are heat warped, or have burned on crud. They should be washed with solvent and then scuffed clean with emory cloth. If the disc fits into a recessed flywheel, make sure it was clearance around the outer edge from gunk buildup, or new friction discs were installed that need to be turned to a slightly smaller diameter. Some older clutches listed size with a round number, but have the clearance on the disc, not where they fit in. Example, a 10 inch clutch has a disc that is 9-7/8 inch outside diameter. But many modern replacement friction facings are a full 10 inch diameter and they need to be turned down once mounted on the disc so they won't bind in a flywheel with a clutch disc recess. Input shaft pilot bearing is too worn. Paul
  2. PFitz

    Primer sealer

    It's best to ask the paint manufacturer. They've done the testing and know their product materials better than anyone. They can tell you what is compatible, and why. Paul
  3. If you follow the additional links listed in Locomobile's posted link, it leads you to more specific info about the laws. Paul
  4. I'll bet you don't ever have to worry about your 1930 making those noises. 😉 Paul
  5. Ross is all I use now. Excellent quality and stronger and lighter than sand cast pistons. Paul
  6. Forget about a kit like later some later convertibles. Touring tops need an experienced upholsterer and the car in that shop to properly fit and tension the top. Post your general location and someone many be able to post a nearby qualified shop close enough to take the cars there. Paul
  7. Easy access to the transmission, and the added convenience of a tire that doubles as a parking brake. Paul
  8. Yup, a lot has changed in the paint world in 8 years. For the best advice contact PPG tech support. They are up to date on what their products do and don't intermix uses with. I've found them to be very helpful. 1-888- 9PPGPMC Paul
  9. Yes, the 77 is a 4spd - used in 31 Franklins. Not sure about the 71, but there are no roller bearings in the 77 counter shaft - just only brass bushings, with a large OD brass end thrust washer. In your picture. Once you have the bolt and retaining plate removed from between those two axle ends sticking out the rear of the case, then they come out rearward. They are not "part of the case" , just a very snug fit in the case to prevent oil leakage. Because of that snug fit, they will not move easily. You may need to drive the counter shaft's axle out by hitting it from the front with a brass drift pin and hammer. For the reversing gear axle, you'll need to get it loose by prying it by the slot in it. When you put them back in, put a slight smear of Permatex gasket sealer on the rear most end of the axle shafts, and only inside the countershaft's front hole, so that as the axle is reinstalled from rearward, it is sealed to the case again. That way no sealer will get in the counter shaft and reversing gear bearing/bushing surfaces. Paul
  10. Yes, they raced them. At least they used to. Not long ago there used to be "Vintage races" at Bridgehampton race track on Long Island. Quite a few of those early race cars showed up. I came very close to being in one of them. Back in the late 70's I was asked to ride mechanic in Alec Ulmann's type 37 Bugatti (the man who helped start the Sebring races). Thanks to the cam drive breaking on Alec's Barcelona Coupe Hiso (that my friend and I were bringing out to Alec's place in Sagaponack, and had to tow it with my AMX), we were too late to make the time trials. However, later on, I did get to ride around the course in my AMX,......... following Alec's type 57,.... which was allowed as a courtesy to Alec, to follow the track's Toyota Celica pace car,....... all at only 30 mph. Paul
  11. Usually, the offer of a free meal, or 6 pack, will bring lots of offers of help when an extra hand is needed just to turn a switch or press a pedal. No one needs to work alone as long as there's still food and booze in the world ! Paul
  12. He: Honey, have you seen that new paint brush I just bought ? Her: Yes, the kids said they wanted to play with it. Paul
  13. Steve, If you can move the pedal and after a 1/4 inch you feel the increased resistance of the master cylinder piston return spring, then it is likely OK. If while driving on level roads you feel like the engine is starting to strain, like going up a hill, and the brake drums are getting hot, even though you haven't been doing a lot of braking, then back off the rod to give the pedal another 1/4 inch of freeplay just to be safe. The mistake some make who aren't aware of the compensating port's function is that they adjust the pedal too high and eliminate that freeplay that keeps the port open to allow the system to compensate for brake fluid thermal expansion, because they want a high firm pedal. Well, they'll certainly have a high firm pedal while they are stuck out on the road and waiting for the underside of the car to cool off enough to release the brakes !!!!! 🙄 Paul
  14. It's roller bearing. Sometimes called a "journal bearing". I've rebuild a few each of the Warner T-3, T-3A T-81 3 spds and T-77 4spds and they all use one. Clean the end cages and see if there is a number under that goo. If not you can order them by size. Use the total length end to end, the OD of the shaft it rides on, and ID of the bore it fits into. On that roller bearing for a T-77 it is originally a Hyatt RA149 and still available new. Might be still available new for your T-71 size, also. Example; from my notes for the T-77, It's a #94430 (Berliss Bearing Co.). shaft OD =.875, bore ID = 1.375, length =1.958. That number 94430 comes up as still available when typed into Kaman's website search box. Paul