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PFitz last won the day on January 16 2019

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  1. Maybe she heard someone say that they love driving their vicky ? Paul
  2. Or, more commonly, the hoses swell shut only letting fluid get forced to the wheel cylinders. Then, either slowly, or no fluid return back to the master cylinder and the brake shoes don't release properly. All while still looking fine on the outside. Paul
  3. Welcome AP, Tell whoever told you that, HOGWASH ! That's the kind of advice that can cause serious problems !!!!!! Steel brake lines don't always rust outside in. Most often they rust from inside out where you can't see it until the line blows out. Been there with cars far younger and had that sinking feeling when the car suddenly doesn't stop as well as it used to. Luckily I was not going down a steep hill and had more distance to get it eventually stopped. And I spent six months in California, long enough to know it ain't dry enough to trust that there's no rust in 55 year old steel brake lines. New brake lines are cheap,... don't you be, too ! Paul
  4. On the earlier copper brake line fittings - the type with the long tapered flair nuts - there is not enough length of thread engagement to safely fit a double flair. The single flair with the Kunifer-10 is less likely to leak without need of over tightening the flair nut if the flair is annealed and softened back to original. And yes, the K-10 can develop radial splits at the flair if not annealed. That's why I started doing it many years ago on all my customer's brake line replacement work. That's what Chris is talking about that I told him about for his Franklin. Those are the type fittings on his Franklin, and they can't safely use a modern double flair. The kit to replace the original copper lines and brass flair nuts with new, made in the USA, SAE spec long-taper brass nuts, identical to the originals, are available through the Franklin Club. All the money from the Club's Parts Project, such as that kit, goes to fund the making of more replacement parts through the Club. BTW, whenever I do a steel tube flair on more modern cars, I don't anneal them. Paul
  5. THIS !!!!!!!!! I've lost count of how many times I've said the same thing over the years. And still I see cars with a electric pump feeding the vacuum tank because whoever installed it didn't understand how they work and the problems that can cause. Some vac tank setups, like many of the Stewart Warner, have the vent tube pointing right down at a hot engine parts. On some it's right above the exhaust pipe. Turn on the electric pump, you not only risk flooding the engine back through the intake manifold vacuum supply line, you have raw gas squirting down at the hot engine parts. Vacuum tanks worked well when new and still work well when fixed by someone who knows how to properly do it. Like carburetors, a quick cleaning and slap some gaskets in is not a proper fix. Paul
  6. Agreed with Frank. The engineers used 1/4 inch for a reason. A smaller line will not flow volume as fast and fluid return will take longer at the same shoe return spring tension. Not a big deal, but the shoes will delay on/off just a bit longer to feed the original size wheel cylinders, which have not changed size. Might put them a bit out of balance with the fronts, and that might affect wet road braking ???? Be safe and stick with what the engineers used. It worked when new. Paul
  7. Walker bodied 31 Franklin Conv Coupe. The original lid seal is just a flat, soft sponge rubber strip glued into the lid's edge recess. It presses against the raised edge of the drip gutter surrounding the front and sides of the rumble seat opening. By only contacting that raised edge, it leaves the drip gutter clear so that water can run down in the gutter to drain holes in a tray under the lid's rear edge. Restoration specialties had the correct rectangular cross section and correct density of sponge rubber. The quality is excellent. Paul
  8. PFitz

    Melted wires

    G. Check your personal messages. Paul
  9. PFitz

    Melted wires

    Welcome, G. If the wiring is original it's very likely part, or all of the problem. 90+ year old wiring is many problems just waiting to happen. And once the wire starts getting moved around with car use and work on it, the old brittle rubber insulation just crumbles allowing short circuits that send the power where it should not go, or can't send it at all. If your using an electric fuel pump, and it was using the vacuum tank, the float level may be wrong when the electric is turned on. The pressure differences will give two different fuel heights. If the electric pump is in the fuel line leading to the vacuum tank do not use the pump. It will flood the vacuum tank and send raw gas through the intake manifold vacuum line thus flooding the engine. And if by chance you should be able to get the engine running, it can also push fuel out the tank vent right above the exhaust pipe and risk a fire. "rebuilt" does not always mean rebuilt correctly. I've had to rebuild many "professionally" rebuilt carbs that Franklin owner's paid a lot of money to have done wrong. So don't assume it's ok and does not need to be included in the trouble shooting check list. Same for the motor. Many engine rebuilding shops don't know the fine details of adjusting and tuning Franklin engines. There's only a handful of shops in the country that truly know Franklin engines. If it is the original Stromberg OE-2 carburetor, there is a hex head screw in the outboard side of the fuel bowl. The bottom of that hole is what the float (fuel) level should be. If it's not, they can be finicky about starting. Setting the float level is covered in section 800 of the Operators Manual. Another problem is the ignition system. Is it getting spark at the spark plugs ? The distributors are die cast, from that era where all pot metal was a problem and don't age well. Plus the replaceable ignition parts are rare, and very expensive when they can be found, so they may have not been replaced during a rebuild ????? If you don't have an Operators Manual, and you are a member of the Franklin Club, you can download a free copy from the "Members Only" section of the Club's website. The manual has a lot of info on adjusting and trouble shooting. There is also a lot of info in the website's Q&A section. If you are not a member of the H.H. Franklin Club I strongly suggest you join. It will save you far more than the cost of membership. And you'll belong to one of the best Clubs in the country ! Once all sorted out and all is functioning as it should be, the 11B's are wonderful, fun cars to drive. Good power to weight ratio and light easy steering. They are one of the more common year Franklins seen on Club tours. Yours can be too. Franklins are rather unique in their design. As such, I suggest you check in the Franklin section of this site and ask your questions there where your more likely to get the advice you need. Paul
  10. Well at least who ever used that bolt for a fuse,...... used a galvanized bolt. Wouldn't want rust to cause a problem. Paul
  11. Roger. 1. Yes. Starting in 29, Franklin moved the coil to under cowl, upside down above the gas pedal. Away from the engine heat they live much longer. 2. There usually is a double fuse holder under the passenger side of the dash for cigar lighters and dome/rear reading lights. Either on the wood frame above the registration pocket of the passenger kick panel, or on the firewall above about where the front passenger's left foot would rest. BTW don't use a 20 amp fuse in any of the car wiring. #14 wire is only rated at 18 amps and some of the wire runs are long and old. Plus, I've tried and I can't get Franklin cigar lighters to blow a15 amp fuse, so using 20 amp fuses are not needed and not good circuit protection. The "fuse relay" is not a magnetic switch relay like we think of used in modern wiring relays. It's just a single fuse holder, wired in parallel with a heavy resister wire. As you can see more than just the running lights run off that "relay". All the interior and brake lights are on it too. Stop with the head lights on , foot on the brake, and turn on the interior lights to read a map and it'll be about enough amp draw to pop that 20 amp fuse. There goes all your lights....unless. If the fuse blows, the resister wire is supposed to enable you to still have some lights and run the car to get home. However, if you don't find and disconnect whatever caused the fuse to blow, the resistor wire will still allow enough current to flow to start a car fire. It's not a safe way to protect the electrical system, and why Franklin used it in stead of the multi fuse blocks of '28 and earlier, I'll never understand. The relay is just a simple formed sheet metal box with fuse holder. It's the picture I showed above. The resistor wire is wrapped around mica insulators and attached to the fuse end clip screws inside, thus bridging those two connections. Here's a picture of the resistor and insulating sheets that fits inside that box. There's also a piece of sheet asbestos that goes between that fuse relay housing and the firewall pad. Think Franklin knew it would get hot ? It wouldn't with the second picture, but if other parts of the electrical system short out they sure would get hot. Found that bolt in the fuse holder of a 153, right after a customer bought it and sent it to me to fix a bunch of things on the car, plus rewire it. Another problem with that relay is finding the large fuses that fit it are not easy and the previous owner ( a non-Club member) obviously couldn't find some. Paul
  12. Sunny, FYI, yes that fork it can be welded. And a welder can add extra material on the sides to strengthen that broken area. Should only take a competent welder minutes to do. And likely cost less than machining a new one. Paul
  13. Why Franklin got away from individual fuses and went with one large fuse - much too high an amp rating to be really safe- in parallel with a resistor that still allowed enough power to flow to start an electrical fire, if that fuse did blow, is a mystery. However, '29 and later Franklins can have a fuse block to safely divide up the circuits and use lower amp fuses that become the weak link, rather than a fuse rated much higher than the safe current rating of the 14 ga. wires used. Marine fuse blocks look almost exactly like the fuse blocks of Franklin era. And the fastener spacing is the same as the firewall mounted relay. Here's pix of the back side of a relay with it's two bolts, and a marine fuse block with two of it's mounting holes drilled larger and countersunk for the 1/4 inch sized machine screws of the original relay. I make a sheet brass "bus bar" strip to connect all the power feed side fuse connections for the power feed wire. This is how I upgrade the wiring to spread the circuit loads over many smaller fuses instead of all on one that is too big, without having to resort to modern-looking fuse holders and wires stashed in various parts of the car. Not only will it pass all but the most Franklin savvy car show judges, it puts all the fuses where they can be more easily checked, and circuits tested, during electrical system trouble shooting. The last two pictures show a new 4-fuse block mounted in the original rely position on the firewall, above the gas pedal of a Series 151. One of the 6 fuse blocks gives even more ability to divide up circuits and add electrical accessories. And since it mounts where the original relay was, the repro harnesses from Rhode Island Wire Service work without modification. Plus, it's easy to add on other items like accessory lights. Paul