PFitz

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PFitz last won the day on January 16

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  1. Here's another shot of an original Lyon cover on a 153. If you notice, the factory picture shows the tire is strapped to the cowl brace before the cover goes on. Most owners put the straps on over the cover,..... which eventually marks it up. Paul
  2. John, They are a simple, painted face plate that fits under the edge of and is held by spring tension of the chrome plated outer band. Pic of an original Franklin Lyon cover, three pix from the dealer's 31 accessory catalog. Paul
  3. The firestones fit inside the Franklin factory accessor Lyon covers fine. And while it's a snug fit, the covers and wheels fit down into the wells. The problem is finding a set of those covers. Paul
  4. Jim, The 31 accessory catalog listed both cloth and metal covers (Lyon brand). The metal ones are quite rare and expensive if you can find them. Most any auto upholstery shop can make cloth covers using the factory drawing #42993. Then there were non-factory covers available in the day, so just about any cover that fits would be period correct. Depending on the brand of tire, they may not fit in the fender wells with tire covers on. Some brands, like the older Lesters, are quite large, even though they were sold as 6.50-19. I've had some tires that had to have most of the air let out to fit the tire down into the fender well far enough to get the hold down clamp and straps to work. Paul
  5. As Jon said, poor compression can be a cause (lack of intake suction). And a weak, slow starter motor can also cause poor intake suction hard starting. Also check,... Float level. If too low that can cause hard starting. Idle fuel circuit is not restricted with rust particles, and/or, crud. Being the smallest fuel passages in an updraft carb this is a common problem. Idle circuit air leak causing too lean to start. One other item. Most updraft carbs not only need full choke when engine is cold, they need the hand throttle cracked open a bit, also. Paul
  6. Marine suppliers, such as Jamestown Distributors, sell fuse blocks in various sizes that look just like those used in the late 1920's and 1930's. They hold the common glass tube "buss" type fuses. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12253 Paul
  7. That's a question ? Obviously, you haven't met my friends. Paul
  8. PFitz

    UPHOLSTERY MATERIAL

    When your doing a search, depending on who is selling it, panel board sometimes goes by other names. And there are differences in thickness and flexability so it pays to call to get details, and/or, samples. Panel board https://albanyfoam.com/product-category/panel-board/ https://www.perfectfit.com/15347/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard.html http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Automotive/Automotive_Misc/Panel_Board_-_Waterproof/index.html But another upholstery supplier calls it Cowl board. Odd since they are one of the biggest suppliers to the marine upholstery trade. https://www.miamicorp.com/products/SUPPLIES @@26 TOOLS/DOOR PANEL BOARD/COWLBOARD.aspx Paul
  9. PFitz

    1928 value

    Looking at the second batch of pictures again I agree, it's not a 28 but an earlier Series 11. That saves a few hundred dollars on wiring, brakes, and if the potmetal venturi in the brass carb is still ok then it's rebuildable for less than the cost of a replacement. But there will still be the other expenses and questions mentioned to make it running and safe. The paint shows it spent a lot of time exposed outdoors. The left side drip rail coming loose and rot-through the aluminum skin down in the right rear corner of the body may indicate roof and belt molding leaks and problems with the wood framing inside at those points. Which also makes me wonder how good the wooden chassis sills are. Paul
  10. I've had to replace a few electronic ignitions back to breaker point systems. One just like the unit in picture only a couple of months ago. In engines that the distributor can get hot, the electronics don't hold up. But a breaker point ignition system can withstand the heat much better. Paul
  11. PFitz

    1928 value

    Running and safe is fine, but,..... If the bottom end babbitt needs redoing (most 90+ year old babbitt does), there's a few thousand dollars for rods and mains,.... and there are no off the shielf parts to do that. The engine base has to be sent out to a shop qualified to do babbitt work and align bore the new mains. 28 Franklins have the most complex and expensive wiring systems of any Franklin. And I can guarantee that if it still has the original wiring the insulation is all hardened, cracking, and falling off. It's not a question of if it will have electrical problems, but when. And the lights being apart makes me think the "when" is already here. So all new wiring harnesses and misc wiring supplies (so you don't have an electrical fire) will be close to $1000.00. A new correct type and size carb, that won't damage the engine like many of the replacements in past, is $650.00 + shipping. One of the members found a good NE distributor cap for his Franklin at Hershey last year - $400.00. And as Walt said, about $2000.00 for tires tubes and flaps +shipping. Rebuilding the brake system can run into the hundreds. And you don't even know if the engine will run, much less what condition it's in and what it will need not just to get out the driveway but to stand a good chance of getting you back home. Making a car that old just running and safe can get very expensive. And most of the expensive questions about this car have not been answered yet. Paul
  12. John, That's what many sidedraft motor owners learn to do. But with the thicker than original cover cork gaskets, getting the ends of the cover bails back in the holes can be a challenge ….. that sometimes leads to broken bails. Don't ask how I know,..... Paul
  13. PFitz

    1928 value

    Still a lot of questions before figuring a price. Says it ran three years ago, but not for long with that air shroud off to run the spark plug wires outside the loom. It'll over heat after about 5 minutes of that not having cooling air forced through the cooling fins of the cylinders. Was it over heated and warped pistons or burned valves ? Have you seen it start, run ? Says auto transmission, but I see the original floor shift - what's under the floor boards ? Those cars had a Stromberg T-2 potmetal carb that most by now have developed cracks and leak internally, or fell apart and been replaced - often with the wrong carb. What's the carb and vacuum tank like ? Paul
  14. PFitz

    1928 value

    Ok, I see the engine air shroud on the floor by the wall, but what about the 3 inch high band it sits on that goes between the shroud and the bottom section ?. I see the original wiper motor is still there, just needs a wiper arm that you can get from the Ford Model A repro parts guys. Working or rebuildable is then the question. And the rear seat foot rest. Those often are gone after someone has stepped on and broken the potmetal end brackets. Rear seat vanity is missing. What about the smoker's set on the other side ? Spare tire demountable rim is there, just needs a tire, flap and tube. The tail light bezel and lenses are missing. Paul
  15. PFitz

    1928 value

    Matt, With only one picture to go by it's tough to know. From what I see, add one headlight reflector, the lion mascot on the grill shell, and maybe the wiper motor to the missing parts list ? But, those are not real deal breakers. 28 was one of Franklin's higher production years and with some digging parts can still be found. If you can post more pictures, including the interior and hood open, we can tell you more. Paul