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Everything posted by PFitz

  1. Wilton wool carpet is what Franklin used in most of the cars. You can get it from Bill Hirsch. Some models had a rubber mat in the front compartment, but they didn't last and were replaced with carpet during an early restoration. A member in Canada has made a mold for replacement rubber mat for his Series 11A. According to Tom Hubbard, most of the cars used taupe colored carpets, no matter what the interior colors were. When I asked him more about a specific shade, he said. "You know, the color of dirt". When you consider there were very few paved roads and not a lot of sidewalks, carpets got dirty so a dirt colored carpet made more sense. But there are enough original examples of carpet that blend with the interior colors to pick whatever you like. Keep in mind that colors that are very dark, or very light will show dirty foot prints more easily. Hank M. had a bunch of NOS Franklin carpets at a Trek to sell. Most were taupe. The binding was either russet leather color or a complementary color if the carpet was not taupe. And starting about 1930 imitation leather was coming into wide use for binding. However, modern imitation leather, while more durable than leather, tends to be thicker and it's not as easy to use in binders, or form neat corners as leather binding. Especially if you want it to look like the original way the binding was sewn on. Paul
  2. Looks like 11A & B are the only Series that use that size yoke pin. Earlier Series use a smaller pin, and later a larger one. I'd be interested to know price of a pair for my family member's 11A. And I have several customers with 11A and B that might also be interested. Paul
  3. PFitz


    As Walt said, you have to be more specific about year and model. The spring length, number of leaves in each, the thickness of the leaves, and how they mount, varied a lot by model. Look in the parts books and you'll see that. Put the wrong springs on and it will cause other problems, such as, springs hitting other parts and unsafe handling.
  4. PFitz

    Snubber strap

    Ok, I was going by this post's title use of the word "strap". Paul
  5. PFitz

    Snubber strap

    Roger, didn't you get them from John Straway, when you asked about them back on Dec 10th ? Paul
  6. New Spicer cross and bushings were still available in some sizes, not long ago. Check with Tom at Odyssey Restorations, 763-786-1518. That's where I get them for the Spicer u-joints used on 6 cylinder Franklins. Paul
  7. Ok, who's the Photoshop wizard of the 137 touring picture on the Club's website in, Pictures by Year of Manufacture section ? Should have removed the guy standing beyond the car seen through the windshield. 😄
  8. PFitz

    wood spoke wheels

    If you have any Amish in the area, ask them. Many of the Amish do wagon/carriage work, including wheel rebuilding. Paul
  9. Seen while stuck in rush hour traffic...... "Save gas, ride a horse" I think it would have more meaning if it was on the rump of a horse. 😁 Paul
  10. Have you tried Metro Molded Rubber? Or Ames Rubber Manufacturing? FYI to anyone looking for rubber extrusions, Ames bought out a lot of the equipent and dies from Karr Rubber. Paul
  11. I know you've seen them, but may not remember - because of the hidden running boards, the 30-31 Franklin Pirate Touring and Phaeton have a mud flap on the front fenders, just forward of where the rear end of the fender curves into the body. Paul
  12. Another vote for 1-Shot sign enamel paints. They have long been the gold standard of quality paint. They are formulated for use with a natural hair brush, and for air drying. Developed to hold up to weather for hand painted outdoor signs and names on boat transoms. Paul
  13. PFitz

    F.S. box of parts

    Gauge cluster, fender lights and most other parts are 135/137. Some of the hood latch and door parts are also 30&31. Paul
  14. PFitz

    Franklin Gas gauge

    If your going to salvage the original gauge, know than pot metal can be porous. That's how moisture gets in and causes the inter-granular corrosion that makes it swell and crack. I never knew this until I had some potmetal door handles cast and used an original, uncracked potmetal handle as a pattern for heat-cured rubber molds. The molds were full of bubble holes as the handle heated up and out-gassed into the rubber while it was curing. Now, I clean the pot metal in solvent, dry it, and then soak it with WD-40. The WD-40 penetrates the potmetal where ever moisture can and helps keep moisture out. Paul
  15. PFitz

    Franklin Gas gauge

    If you remember to add Marvel Mystery Oil to the tank at each fill up, that will not only protect the tank, it will also clean and protect the entire fuel system and right up to the top piston rings. Adding about 25% MMO to the valve pad oil also prevents sticking valves. Paul
  16. PFitz

    Franklin Gas gauge

    A socket that spreads the force over all the flats is best, but not easy to come by. That time on the green at the Trek, I was able to use an old smooth-jaw monkey wrench I always carry in the tool boxes. I fit the full surface of the gauge flats better than a modern adjustable wrench would. That, plus patients and a lot of luck payed off. A proper socket would have saved a few minutes and reduced the risk of getting broken pot metal dropping down into the tank. Now, if we can just get Jeff to make more new gauges,.... 😁 Paul
  17. PFitz

    Franklin Gas gauge

    Steel cable floping around inside the tank,.... sounds like a good way to get a spark for an explosion. If your going to do that, I'd suggest running car exhaust, or other innert gas into the tank to push oxygen out. Paul
  18. PFitz

    Franklin Gas gauge

    Is the sealer yellow ? If so, that is early Bill Hirsch sealer that is not alcohol proof. If it is white it is the later alcohol resistant sealer. If it is another color I have no idea what it is. Cutting open the tank is not always the best way to go. It causes it's own problems while trying to solve another that is not as difficult. In 40 years of cleaning /sealing gas tanks I've only had to cut open one,.... because it had 22 dents in it from a bad rear end accident, plus then being driven to ruin offroad and abandoned in the desert. A good soaking and rinse with solvents, such as "fast" ( least expensive grade) lacquar thinner. Blown dry and then do a cocktail shaker with gravel, then another rinse, does a very good job of preping the tank for slosthing with the white Bill Hirsch tank sealer. desite what some think a good sealer like the Biill Hirsch white alcohol resiant sealer, the inside of the tank does not have to be perfectly spotless of rust to be seal well for decades. Paul
  19. PFitz

    Franklin Gas gauge

    I had to get a really stuck Series 11 gauge out at the Trek without aid of shop tools, so it can be done if you work carefully and don't rush it. Soak into the threads with a good rust penetrant, such as Liquid Wrench or similar. Repete each day for several days. Use a well-fitting wrench. Don't try to unscrew it on the first try. Slightly wiggle it back and force to loosen the threads without turning far enough at first to over-stress and crack them. Once it wiggles without needing a lot of force, start unscrewing it. When you feel the resistance to turn increasing, stop, give the threads another spray of penetrant and wiggle it backwards and forwards again to work loose the corrsion in the threads. Repeat as needed. Paul
  20. Gordon, (f147pu) may still have some for sale ? Paul
  21. There might be some clarity in the Dealer letters as to why "Airman" does not appear in '29, '30 & '31 ? They have a lot of info that is not in the operator's manuals or sales catalogs. Another term that's a bit inconsistent in it's uses is, "Transcontinent". Paul
  22. Franklin is somewhat inconsistent in the use of term "Airman", which can lead to confusion. "Airman" only appears on the covers of the Series 12 and 16 operator's operator's manuals and sales catalogs. Yet they still made reference to aircraft-like design of the engine in their advertising. Paul
  23. PFitz


    Negative ground up until 1929 all Series 13. From '29 on all were positive ground. Back pages of the owner's manuals have a wiring diagram wth the plus and minus shown on the battery and where the cables from each terminal go. The club website has copies of all the owner's manuals and parts books, for club members to download for free or buy a reprint to keep in the car. Paul
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