Pressure brake bleeder

[GARY F]

Anyone have a pressure brake bleeder to  recommend to buy. Just for my backyard projects and maintenance.  Thanks

[JFranklin]

Arguing with my wife as she is at the brake pedal is enough pressure for me!!!!

[avgwarhawk]

If my wife or kids are not around I use a vacuum pump bleeder.  

HTOMT 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder Kit Hand held Vacuum Pump Test Set for Automotive with Protected Case,Adapters,One-Man Brake and Clutch Bleeding System(Red) https://a.co/d/1ACAsnv

[GARY F]

I have one of the above and used it but it seems to let air in. That is why I am looking for a pressure bleeder.

[avgwarhawk]

2 hours ago, GARY F said:

I have one of the above and used it but it seems to let air in. That is why I am looking for a pressure bleeder.

Never experienced that with mine. Works great on the 54 Buick where gravity bleeding is a no go because of the placement of the master cylinder. 

[Bloo]

5 hours ago, GARY F said:

Anyone have a pressure brake bleeder to  recommend to buy. Just for my backyard projects and maintenance.  Thanks

 

I don't think it's a good idea. The big roll-around steel ball shops have is about the easiest to use. You probably need at least 3 adapters or so to cover most cars. I used these in shops and loved them. They really are the easiest way. I wouldn't want one now that I am just a hobbyist. The trouble is, you have to load them up with fluid, and brake fluid spoils. I wouldn't use the fluid all up quickly like a shop would. Think of it like milk. It is hygroscopic, meaning it has an affinity for water and likes to find some to mix with. That includes the water floating around in the air. It is bad enough to get water in a brake system because of rust, and fade due to boiling. It is actually worse than that because the brake fluid reacts with the water and becomes some sort of acid, which then sinks to the bottom of the cylinders where it eats up the iron faster than plain water would. It is hard if not impossible to get it all out by bleeding, even if you bleed the brakes fairly regularly, because the bad stuff is at the bottom. You have probably noticed alt the rust damage in most brake cylinders is at the bottom.

 

This all happens anyway, but you can sure minimize it by using fresh brake fluid from sealed containers when you bleed. I keep brake fluid with the cap sealed tight, and no more than 6 months ever. I put up with all the annoyances of vacuum bleeders because it means I can use fresh uncontaminated fluid and dump it straight into the master cylinder. Assuming you got the hose on the bleeder tight, that air you are seeing in the hose is mostly leaking around the bleeder threads and isn't really in the system. I keep pulling until I get clean fluid, and then do about 2 squirts per bleeder the old fashioned manual way just to be sure there's no air left.

 

To pressure bleed instead though, you can modify a master cylinder lid with a schrader valve, and put a little pressure in with a tire pump. I don't like this because you have to keep letting the pressure out and taking the lid off and adding more fluid. It is super easy to wait too long to refill, and blow a bunch of air into the system. I think I can get done faster with the vacuum bleeder despite it's shortcomings. Several of my friends use this method though. There's really nothing wrong with it. It does let you use fresh fluid, and those guys don't get the false bubbles from the bleeder threads. It is a lot easier to tell when it's bled.

 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

To solve the air leaking around the sloppy fit of the bleeder screws when using the vacuum pump bleeder, put (PTFE) Teflon tape on the threads. I know what naysayers are going to chime in with, but, these threads DO NOT SEAL BRAKE FLUID! The PTFE tape does not interfere with the function of the bleeder screw. Just a wrap, not a bundle and only on the threads, not on the unthreaded part of the screw. . I have also used anti-seize on these threads. That helps stops some air sucking and make them useable again, since I live in the rusty east.

 

YMMV

 

Other threads/forums where people asked about pressure bleeders got the Summit Racing Motive products answer, but I have no experience myself, since my 30 year old Mighty-Vac still works for me! I do agree that get the small size pressure bleeder, and just put in a quart or less to use it, and drain after use, fresh fluid next time.

 

I have not seen one of those ball style bleeders in shops in over 30 years.  Looked like my mom's Hoover ball canister vacuum cleaner!

 

 

 

[EmTee]

I just use this:

 

 

I've tried using my hand vacuum pump with miserable results.  That seems to add air...  My bleeder jar never fails.  I have a bottle of used brake fluid that I save from prior bleeding sessions.  I pour a little of that into the jar and pump the pedal myself.  If I suspect the bleeder fitting leaks, I just smear some grease around the fitting, refill the master cylinder and then slowly stroke the pedal four or five times.  Close the bleeder, check for hard pedal, lather, rinse, repeat...

[kuhner]

I have a vacuum bleeder and had trouble with air leaking around the bleeder when using.

Now I take a bleeder screw that fits what I am trying to bleed and cut the sealing part off it.  Screw all the way in and hook up your vacuum line. Remove when down and replace with the original uncut bleeder screw.

[GARY F]

Thank you all for the replies.

[joe_padavano]

10 hours ago, kuhner said:

I have a vacuum bleeder and had trouble with air leaking around the bleeder when using.

Now I take a bleeder screw that fits what I am trying to bleed and cut the sealing part off it.  Screw all the way in and hook up your vacuum line. Remove when down and replace with the original uncut bleeder screw.

People always freak out about air coming around the bleeder screw threads. Who cares? If you use a vacuum bleeder that provides constant vacuum (as opposed to those crappy hand-pump units) then the leakage is irrelevant. Physics says that the air will always move to the lower pressure, which is inside the bleeder. It can't physically go upstream. I've had a Vacula brake bleeder for over 20 years now, and I never have to bleed each wheel more than once. Yeah, air comes in past the threads. It doesn't matter. The bleeder still pulls all the air out of the system in only a few minutes. I don't even have to bench bleed the master cylinder, nor do I ever have to worry about activating the ABS on my newer vehicle. It just plain works.

 

 

[Akstraw]

I have had nothing but success with the Motive Products pressure bleeder.  Way easier than pumping the pedal, and reasonably priced, I thought.

[Guest]

I've also been pleased with the Motive Products pressure bleeder. It work well on my '73 Impala, which has the inclined master cylinder. No need to store brake fluid in the Motive bleeder, I always plan ahead and flush a bit of extra fluid through the brake system to use all in the bleeder tank. Only disadvantage is probably having to buy a master cylinder-specific adapter, but once you have it, you're all set.

[Don Jr.]

I also have the Motive bleeder system. Works wonderful for my purpose. And yes need to buy the specific adapter for each application.

[Lahti35]

10 hours ago, Writer Jon said:

I've also been pleased with the Motive Products pressure bleeder. It work well on my '73 Impala, which has the inclined master cylinder. No need to store brake fluid in the Motive bleeder, I always plan ahead and flush a bit of extra fluid through the brake system to use all in the bleeder tank. Only disadvantage is probably having to buy a master cylinder-specific adapter, but once you have it, you're all set.

Good to hear, I've been considering one of these... My vehicle in question has such a small reservoir that you need a constant supply of fluid feeding it to do any bleeding at all and these Motive units would fit the bill.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

17 hours ago, joe_padavano said:

People always freak out about air coming around the bleeder screw threads. Who cares? If you use a vacuum bleeder that provides constant vacuum (as opposed to those crappy hand-pump units) then the leakage is irrelevant. Physics says that the air will always move to the lower pressure, which is inside the bleeder. It can't physically go upstream. I've had a Vacula brake bleeder for over 20 years now, and I never have to bleed each wheel more than once. Yeah, air comes in past the threads. It doesn't matter. The bleeder still pulls all the air out of the system in only a few minutes. I don't even have to bench bleed the master cylinder, nor do I ever have to worry about activating the ABS on my newer vehicle. It just plain works.

 

 

 Joe, do you have a "Model # " for that unit?

 Thanks  Ben.

[joe_padavano]

29 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 Joe, do you have a "Model # " for that unit?

 Thanks  Ben.

Ben, it's on the box in the photo - 18-9961. Be aware that Vacula is your go-to when you care enough to spend the very most. I was lucky to find mine at a swap meet for $15 because no one else (seller included) knew what it was. If the price of a new one causes palpitations, there are now clones at HF and Amazon that are much less expensive. I have not tried these, but frankly there aren't a lot of close tolerance parts to worry about. It's a venturi to create vacuum, an on/off valve, and a tank.

[Frank DuVal]

On 12/1/2022 at 7:40 PM, joe_padavano said:

(as opposed to those crappy hand-pump units)

Been using one with no issues (that were not just simple sealing of threads, a less than a minute solution) for 40 years. I have sources of vacuum around the shop if I needed to do it better, never needed to. Knowing how bleeding works is the main problem people have. 

[joe_padavano]

9 minutes ago, Frank DuVal said:

Been using one with no issues (that were not just simple sealing of threads, a less than a minute solution) for 40 years. I have sources of vacuum around the shop if I needed to do it better, never needed to. Knowing how bleeding works is the main problem people have. 

My experience with the hand pump bleeders is that every time you pump, it IS a chance to admit air back into the system. The advantage of the Vacula-type constant vacuum system is that there is no opportunity for air to reenter the system - it always comes out. And as I noted, since there is an "infinite" amount of suck, leakage around the threads is a non-issue.

[Frank DuVal]

2 minutes ago, joe_padavano said:

My experience with the hand pump bleeders is that every time you pump, it IS a chance to admit air back into the system.

Not my experience. Mine has a vacuum gauge on it  so I can see when the vacuum is getting near atmospheric. I give a few pumps to get a good vacuum (near 30 inches mmHg) then open the bleeder, watch the gauge, close the bleeder before it gets to atmospheric or I'm satisfied with the color of the fluid. Seems like the same way you use the larger device. The Mighty Vac has a check valve. Air moves only one way.

 

No way should one pump while fluid is flowing unless you already have good flow and are just touching up the vacuum. No air will enter the system dong that.

 

When one turns the bleed screw and the hose falls off, well, that would be the same with the Vacula system too. Get better fitting hoses out of the rubber hose drawer...

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Yep, there it is!  I looked all over for that number .   

 Thank you.

 

  Ben

[Bloo]

Even the cheapies hold vacuum long enough. If it's not even trying to hold vacuum, the leak must be massive. They're annoying to use because the cup wants to fall all over the place, but you just pump a bunch of vaccuum up and let 'er rip. Don't let it run out of fluid. Pump more when it starts to get low. You'll do that anyway to speed up the process. Yes, the bleeders leak. I always do 2 or 3 squirts the old fashioned manual way at the end just to be sure there's no air left, but lately it doesn't seem to make any difference.

[NailheadBob]

I also like Joe use the Vacula and the clear hose has a rubber 90 degree elbo that fits real tight around bleeder screw it does a great job, I also have adapter that goes on brake fluid reservoir to hold extra brake fluid so you don’t have to keep going back to fill reservoir 

 

Bob

[Bloo]

Those Vacula things are wonderful. I love them. They are way better than the cheapies with a hand pump, although the cheapies do work. I prefer vacuum bleeding for the reasons I already stated, but let's not forget that @GARY F is looking for a pressure bleeder.

 

Edited December 4, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Larry Schramm]

Assembly plants use vacuum bleeding for brakes.

[c49er]

Pressure bleeding with the older style ball type tank.

It is so fast and positive bleeding, flushing out a system compared to the vacula..

 I have both...I prefer the steel pressure tank type using the shop air hose to pressure it up.

The modern plastic garden sprayer pump up tanks are slow and clunky to use .... their adapters are cheap and can leak.

Have done many many system bleeds and flushes.

JMO...

 

[JACK M]

I had a neighbor that had one of those ball tanks.

I borrowed it often. (He has since moved away)

Pretty much every time I returned it it had another homemade cap.

I always get the weird stuff.

But I do prefer the pressure method, alas, back to the vacuum pump. I use Teflon tape on the bleeder valve threads as I can never tell if the bubbles are coming from the line or the threads.

Edited December 5, 2022 by JACK M (see edit history)

[Dennis Hagen]

I have a couple of vacuum bleeders and bought a pump tank pressure bleeder. For me it is the best!